Iceni

Just seen one today that got a report. Guy selling 3 batteries. 2 look in good shape, but the 7.4v vapex lipo (black) is dangerous. Wires cut short, re-soldered, Heat-shrink not fully covering + on battery exit. Swelling, Knackered heat-shrink insulation on battery, Burn mark on the deans..... There is only 1 place that battery should go... and it's not in a gun.

Some dude put up more pictures of my last shoot! You can see all my gear in this one

One from my last game! @ the Grange Coventry. Flecktarn + G3 with Hensoldt Model 1.

Nope I put in a basic mosfet. Xcortech x304u. I personally don't see the point in a Titan, It's a great device in theory but for me I don't need the features it brings or the install fun. I run 7.4v 2000mAh 25/50c batteries in the G3. So I'm not pushing the gearbox hard, The basic fet does the only thing I need it to do and that is protect the contacts. If I want a better trigger response I'll upgrade the motor to a 35K and perhaps looks for a 130+amp battery that fits. That should boost it into the 25rps range. Outside of that all of my gearboxes are pretty basic, I don't add upgrades that are going to significantly shorten the service period. If you need Titan specific information you would be better served by making your own thread in the "Electric guns" section. https://airsoft-forums.uk/forum/27-electric-guns/

Do it. It's never going to loose value as a wood kit. So even if you never use it it will still be worth what you paid in a few years time.

There was no correction, it was a straight swap. The LCT one was visibly warped. The ASG one that replaced it went in without needing any modification. I got my sling from Zib militaria with the muzzle protector. Wasn't expensive but it looks nice and was in good condition. http://www.zib-militaria.de/epages/61431412.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61431412/Products/100499

That's solid compared to an A1 style grip. The A1 grip is a very strange thing to use it constantly moves. Have a look at where the wobble is coming from. I suspect it'll be the whole upper that has a little side to side travel. It's perfectly normal for an AUG to do this. It'll feel like it's moving loads, but really it's twisting slightly and the length of the grip makes it feel like a huge amount. It shouldn't affect shooting at all and is perfectly normal for the platform. A couple of thing you should do. Get some blue thread lock and put a dab on the bolts that go through the body. Those little nuts are not Nylock, and they will come undone. The one on the mag catch only want's to be finger tight so the mag catch moves nice. Oil the plate over the trigger (gun split). And put some silicone grease on the spring. How comfortable are you finding it to hold

Yes that's standard, The modification means it doesn't matter how hard you pull the trigger it will not fire full auto. It's just a fail safe as some sites can be cautious of augs and other similar trigger systems. The Snow wolf looks good The BB's in the body is something that you will get from time to time. You can put some shimming in the magwell to help stop it. It happens when you change mags slowly or with the gun on an angle. With a little practice you will speed up on the mag change and it will stop happening so often. Split the gun in the middle via the body pin, invert and shake out the BB's that get in there. Just make sure you remove the mag! Again it's practice, once you have done it a couple of times it'll take seconds to get them out.

It's an LCT G3 in olive. With a wood kit from Zib militaria, Real sling, Real rear sight drum. The optic is a Hensoldt model 1 on a stanag claw mount again real steel. You can get the base gun for £329 from fire support. It's an all steel gun, so very heavy. https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/lct-lc-3a3-s-g3a3-green-od-aeg-airsoft-gun I did a review for it, and it highlights some of the flaws of the gun.

I'm going to start to write the cut guide for the safe bar. There might be a couple of edits as I make this post. This is to give an aug a Semi only mode, without removing full auto. First you want to remove the safe bar. It just pushes out to either side. Once out there is a small metal clip that you need to keep safe. Look on the back side of the bar, It should have a red dot on it. There should also be 2 grooves cut into this side of the bar. You need to cut a third groove between those existing slots. I find a small triangular file works best for this. You want to try match the existing grooves for depth and width as well as keeping the cut straight. Once the cut is done you put the bar back into the gun (red dot to the shooter). Make sure you get the metal clip in position first before you put the bar in. And once it's back together you should find the safety now has 3 click positions. Split the upper from the lower if you haven't already done so. Now you need to measure the travel on the trigger to the semi position. Grab a marking tool. Pen scalpel it doesn't matter. Set the bar to the safe position and pull the trigger so it stops. Mark this position on the side of the trigger slide. (1) Pull the trigger until it reaches the de-tent where the semi auto shot finishes mark it off (2). Pull the trigger all the way into the full auto position until it stops mark the position(3). Measure between 1 and 2. Transfer that to the safe bar using the front of it as the 1 position. Measurement (B) You now need to take a sideways measurement. Put the safe bar in the auto position. Pull the trigger all the way in. And push the safe bar over towards the safe setting till it stops moving. Use the side of the gun and mark this position on the safe bar. Release the trigger, and push the safe bar to the new middle position. Mark the safe bar on the same side. The distance between these marks is the amount of material you need to remove from the bar (A). Mark the cube that needs cutting and remove it down to the lower level of the bar. The cube of material that remains will act as a stop for the trigger, so do not accidentally cut it off! Working slowly with a scalpel is better than trying to go at it with a big knife, saw or dremel. This should give you a semi only position on an Aug, You may have to refine the cuts, but removing less and working up to the correct measurement is better than removing more.

If someone wants to proof read this then I would be grateful. Otherwise I think it's about there.

The new scope.. Sexy Sexy Sexy! @Druid799

It is and gunfire can fit it for you. https://gun-fire.co.uk/product-eng-1152210581-MOSFET-Module-Installation.html Trouble is they might fit it on the battery side of the backplate. You want it on the gearbox side. If they do you won't be able to use those bigger batteries. It's very easy to do it yourself, or get a local tech to do it so you can explain where you want the fet fitting. I'll pop a picture up as well for your reference. Just taking them and editing. What you see there is the x304u mosfet, And a deans connector on the south side of the fet to the motor (fully heatshrunk). That deans connector gives me a QC motor system. I solder the wires directly to the motor with a deans on the end, and can then swap motors at will.

If they release that with the through mounted grenade trigger, and the grenade unit I'll be all over it. Chances are one of the companies will jump on it, there have been several new variants from China recently, I quite like some of the wire cutter models. So one of the manufacturers is definitely working on AUG parts. All of the new variants are ARMY branded and use what I regard as APS bodies. So chances are it's the same company. http://www.iwholesales.co.uk/211135-army-raptor-7-ris-aug-black-r907

Tan. Don't bother with black. There are enough black guns out there and the aug looks best with the colour variations. Tan is also easier to scrim if you wanted to use it outdoors. Black on the other hand requires a lot more work to hide.

I've got to do some pictures for the LCT review I'm doing, so while I have the camera out I'll do the AUG pictures as well. I was hoping to get to the gun range to switch up the images a little for the LCT but I don't think that is going to happen in this rain..... And I really wanted to zero my new scope.... I actually didn't think there was any call for the mod to have a tutorial. Perhaps I should review the AUG as a platform at some point and drop in the mods onto that as well.

That picture is actually mine. lol I put it on here a few years ago! It's the bar from my Aug a3. It shows my first attempt at the mod, the new cuts are in white. The A1 modification are in better positions and look cleaner. There is an order you must do the cuts to get the correct depth and position for the trigger. The push rod doesn't go. There is nothing to break on it. All it is is a plastic and steel bar that pushes through the body onto the gearbox. And on the gearbox it pushes on a regular trigger. The force needed to break it would break any aeg trigger. The bit that appear to have a fault is the contact points on the gearbox. Semi auto is normally fine, but full auto can require a little balancing on how far in/out the contacts sit. Too far out the gun will go straight to auto, too close to the gearbox you won't get full auto. It's very easy to fix.

lol no, The way I do it doesn't involve stripping the gun, and you still have full auto. You just cut a pair of notches out of the safety bar. One is a triangular groove cut with a triangular file halfway between the safe and shoot setting. That adds a detent to locate the new position. The other is the removal of a small block of plastic with the scalpel. This allows the trigger to move, but only as far as the semi stop. When done it add a semi only position to the safe/shoot bar. You can still click that bar over to the standard fire position and still have the standard semi/auto trigger like normal. 30 minute fix, and doesn't require opening the gun or messing with the gearbox. I think I found the fix on an older forum that has long since vanished (brotherhood of AUG). I should at some point do a tutorial on it as I don't think the information to make the mod is available on the forums ATM.

My augs are fantastic, I love them to bits. The shape and handling of the gun can't be faulted, and it's why a lot of people can live with the few flaws they have. The one thing you should also do if the gun doesn't already have is the semi shot only mod. It'll take you about 30 minutes with a file and scalpel. And it removes one of the biggest site concerns of the aug. That been in a semi only game it is easy to go to full auto. With the mod done this can't happen.

If you want it for CQB only then you can swap the upgrade path. Barrel and hop rubber are a much lower priority as the engagement distances are much shorter. The piston and cylinder heads are only needed if the noise is bothering you. Augs are noisy, but only to the shooter. Everyone else hears a normal sounding gun. Your head and chin are directly over the piston. And you feel and hear every shot and will go battle deaf with it. I'd still put a mosfet into it. It doesn't need to be an expensive model. I run one of mine with a gate nanohard (£30), and the other with an Xcoretech x304u (£15). It's just a bit of contact protection because of the batteries I recommend for the AUG. The cheaper solder in model is easier to find space for and should go straight in behind the gearbox plate if you are good at soldering and wire management. I can show you a picture of how mine are done if you want that information. 7.4v 30(60)C 2200mAh 66amp (132amp burst) https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-2200mah-30c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-battery.html 7.4v 35(70)C 2200mAh. 77amp (154 amp burst) https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-2200mah-35c-continuous-discharge-lipo-battery.html Whilst only 7.4v the amps they provide are sufficient to burn the shit out of the contacts. The advantage of those batteries is the gun is very snappy on the trigger pull, And they run absolutely cold. The BB issue is caused because of the magwell design. The bb's that are left in the feed tube roll across the top of the magazine then into a space that runs round the edge of the magwell and into the body. A bit or plastic or foam solves most of the issue. You just have to be quick to pull the mags, and never do it with the gun sideways. If BB's do get into the body you split the gun in the middle, Invert the gun, and just shake them out. It doesn't take much effort to remove them. The TM still suffers from this.

It's a JG AUG rebranded as snow wolf. Any good in what way? If you mean compared to other brands - TM are the best out of the box but you will pay tripple the price of that one. APS and JG are almost equal with a slight nod to JG. The JG has a marginally faster motor, and a better stock piston head. Body wise all of the augs are near identical, JG and TM use identical bodies, APS use a slightly different one with a raised pistol grip and body area. To use, that model is the best current variant. It has the best rail position and front hand grip options. And the QC spring. Provided you get the short variant. The one you have linked to is the long variant with the A1/A2 hand grip. The A1/A2 don't have the solid front hand grip. The A1 has no rail, the A2 only has a short high rail The A3 is badly balanced, and looses other features like the tool-less barrel swap. The Phantom/sniper variants are all stupid long, and generally have cheap junk extras, like crap scopes and bipods that don't offer the gun anything. Augs are not like M4's. Nothing is bolted down internally (it's designed that way). They have an issue with BB's getting into the body on mag swaps that can be removed with some shimming. The battery compartment is small but will take a 7.4v 30-35c 2200mAh block in most cases. The dual stage trigger can be sorted so it has a single only position with basic tools. Out of the box the JG guns generally arnt' that bad. Cheap upgrades work with them, And the gearbox is solid. A standard upgrade path would be: ZCI stainless inner barrel 450mm (509mm is stock you want it slightly shorter). £25 Decent bucking (maple leaf ect). £15 with omega nub Mosfet. £15 Shimming. As a gun there noisy to the shooter: So optional upgrades are a silent piston head and cylinder head (plastic type are quietest Element ect) SHS bore up kits with the silent heads are also an option but they have more weight in the piston and will slap but not as badly as a flat alu piston head. The JG is a decent out of the box gun, but there is a lot of room for improvement with upgrades. The BB's getting into the body can be frustrating but you can live with it if you love the platform. Speaking of the platform the AUG is a tweakers wet dream. V3 boxes are fantastic to learn on, and putting in a fet is easy as all the wires are external. The gearbox is removable in about 60 seconds. The hop is one of the better AEG designs, and the barrel/hop are removable without having to strip the gun. It makes for a platform that saves a lot of time if you like to play with different internal options. This is the model I would buy. https://gun-fire.co.uk/product-eng-1152215959-SW-020T-Carbine-Replica-Tan.html Everything above applies apart from the barrel length for the upgrades. It comes with a 320mm inner and can be left stock, or upgraded to the ZCI 320mm. You can see it has the more solid hand grip, but still retains all of the features of the longer variant. If you want to have the long barrel, then I would suggest a 2inch barrel extension and a suppressor to make up the length difference in the outer to 450mm.