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Iceni

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Everything posted by Iceni

  1. I was told the piston head would reduce gearbox shock on the castings. Nothing to do with the sound and loudness of the gun just a simple upgrade to help keep it working for longer. I'll look into chargers some more as well I picked that one beacuse of the fast charge option with the 5A current. Most of the cheaper ones were 850-1000mA. I'll do some more digging as your B3 in ebay option pulled up a B6 that looks promising for £12.
  2. O.k I've had time to browse the gun selections. I've looked into most of the models and it's come to a choice between the ICS L85. I would have to go second hand. Or I can get a new JG AUG. I just can't seem to find as many parts for the guns that don't use standard gearboxes. And that for me is a big problem as I play with things, And like tweaking. The AUG I'm looking at would be this setup. http://en.safarasoftair.com/golden-bow-aug-military-tan http://en.safarasoftair.com/element-silent-head-set-ver-3 http://en.safarasoftair.com/golden-bow-magazine-for-aug-330 http://en.safarasoftair.com/weapons/battery-charger/lipo-battery/ep-2800-7-4-30c-lipo-battery http://en.safarasoftair.com/weapons/battery-charger/battery-charger/we-nuprol-lipo-battery-charger-with-balancer http://en.safarasoftair.com/weapons/sling-and-adapter/sling/multipurpose/pantac-tactical-sling-ver-ii-tan With postage that comes in at about £180
  3. Don't worry about me making it wavy, I've seen the regular cleaning guide with T-cut. It's one of those fluids that I see as been agressive and not much use other than for paint. The grits I have acess to are graded and much finer, And the method would be much the same as the T-cut method. The only difference is you don't pour onto your wadding. You wet the stones, then build a paste on them with a diamond lapping plate, then take that paste to the wadding. The actual material this method will remove is less than the T-cut method, and will take longer. I have the stones and I have the correct rotation of stones to get to a mirror finish, I'd be an idiot not to use them. Provided I start at about 5-8K rather than 1K then it's a pure polish rather than a cut and polish. Same as refreshing a straight razor edge, Your not cutting a bevel just polishing what is already there. I'm also the sort of person who will happily sit for a day doing this. I never rush. this is the sort of polish 12K would get you.
  4. You guys are all stars! Granted you have changed what I'm looking at a fair bit, but that is good. I'm still working through gear, I found a page on one website with exploded diagrams of the guns. And that has been helping a lot. And I have acess to a setup L85a2 so I think my next port of call is a cup of cofee and a good chat with the owner. Then perhaps a few hours shooting with it to evaluate it. Barrel wise I did a fairly extensive module in material science at university. I've looked into the barels available and provided the tollerances listed are correct I think I can work with a stainless steel uncoated model I have a vernier guage and some micrometers and know what to do with them. I have a range of sharpening hones for my other big hobby (cut throat razors). And stones that rate from 1K grit to 20K grit (naniwa chosera/suherio), + graded Chromeoxide powder (60K) and diamond lapping fluids (decimal micron grades). With those I can polish stainless up to mirror finished internally using slurries and wadding. And with that I should be able to make a cheaper barrel perform a bit better by removing all machining marks. Stainless is horrible to work with tool steel would be better but it's still workable provided I go at it correctly (stainless will pull and slough rather than grind in a lot of cases the solution is less speed and more time). I'm looking into second hand as well. I'm have no problem with a faulty gun. I'm capable of rewinding motors, soldering cleanly, and re-wirewing. As well as rebuilding a gearbox with a diagram. Provided I can see it I can do it, It can't be any harder than an engine or vehicle gearbox and I've done plenty of those.
  5. So what does improve accuracy then? Tighter bore, Better inner barrel spacing, better air regulation without internal system leakage. Higher quality BB and more weight if windy. I'm working through a load of websites now, Looking at several options. I'm concirened about a few things and am getting sidetracked pretty quickly having to look into gearboxes and switchgear. I've done some reading on how the mosfets work and why arc suppression is needed with a higher C rating. There is a lot to take in. There are several guns appearing that are certainly within budget. The JG's Civilian Aug A1. It would need some tweaking, A seperate selector switch for single auto. Tigher barrel. The magazine quality appears to be an issue. The Famas seems like it might be a contender as well. I'm still working reviews atm so everything is still in speculation. I will look through everything and every design internally and externally before I start to look for shops with stock to visit. My location is Coventry. We have The Grange locally (350fps auto 0% tollerance on fps) and I belive fireball is pretty close as well.
  6. Extras may well have been the problem with the M416. It's a full metal body, with the 4 sided rail system, Front grip, Flash light, long barrel (16" I think). And on the stock side it only had the plastic 5 position stock, with a 1600mAh NiMh. So I think it was suffering from what I can only describe as exessive pendulum momentum on the front end, With no weight in the back to counter it. Had the gun been balanced a bit better so I could have shouldered some weight when sighting it I think I would have been happier. The guy who owns the gun is 8" taller than me and also has arms like other peoples legs. So for him the balance was probably pretty good. He also spent the first day skirmish we went on with his full metal L85, He didn't put it down once, the man's a beast. The actual physical weight on the strap wasn't bad but the single point harness dropped a lot of weight onto a single neck point, rather than spreading it over my shoulders. The gun shoots great, better than any of the others I've tested it's just not the right gun for me. Again a simple 2 point strap system and some careful kit conciderations to spread load would have improved the gun for myself. I've got more systems to look into now. L85, F2000, P90, UAR. I'll do some digging on all of them.
  7. Hey! I'm very new to airsoft. I've had 2 registered skirmishes and plan on having a 3rd very soon so I can get my UKARA. Like all things that are fun I've started to look at equipment. And It's led me on a strange path down what can only be described as a spiral of confusion! I'll start with what I am. I'm a middle aged 30+ working person with some available funds but still opperating in a budget. I got introduced to airsoft by a friend who I'd done a few computer favors for, He took me to a skirmish, Dressed me (in oversized camo), And slapped an M416 in my hands. His expirience is quite vast. He's worked as an airsoft tech, Has good knowelege of gearboxes and rebuilds, And when he was working as a tech he was well known for knowing his stuff. I don't however want to leech from him, or get him to do the work in getting anything I get working well. I'm a hands on person with a technical mind, I'll learn as I go and watch countless video's and read strip down guides on the system I pick until I can do the work myself. From my fist games with the M416 I noticed off the bat it wasn't the firearm for me. It is nose heavy, Hard to keep on point for extended periods without support, And most anoying to me it was difficult to get a confortable sling position with a single point. It was however very accurate and great at range with the sights been almost perfect (akog 1.5x red dot).So I started to look into other designs and built myself a set of criteria based on a fair bit of forum reading. The criteria I came up with is as follows. Longer than average barrel length. Mid cap magazines. 2-3 point sling options. Under £200 with modifications. Scope and as many options included. This led me to look at bullpups. And I've looked into L85's and AUG's so far. Both systems have merits and flaws. So I've decided to make a post regarding bullpups in general. I don't know enough about the systems to go any further, and what I have looked at is all begining to blur into company hype rather than in the field expirience. What is the difference in a Kryptek typhoon and the lesser model other than the paint and £50! I have no set system, And what I want is something I can pick off targets with at decent range and good accuracy. I'm not a spray and pray kind of person, I'd rather dig in and wait. I don't want a sniper rifle, AEG snipers are limited at my local site (370fps) to the gas and spring's (500 fps). So I'd rather stick to 350fps and have the middle ground. Better than average range, no 20M restiction, fire rate isn't as important on full auto. Whist still having mobility, ease of use, and a weight that can be held on point in a kneel without needing support. (I'm asking for the world I think). Anyway I've waffled on a lot. What I want to know is what bullpups would be a good place to start searching. I'm not going to mention what I have picked out at this point because It's not going to be the gun I end up with. All I ask is when you post you make an effort to explain the merits of the system and it's flaws. It's important to me to be able to evaluate things from an actual users perspective. Reviews other than 1min you tube video's would also be very welcome!
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