Shizbazki

Thank you That Vector has been the main gun of this year TBH in terms or time taken to restore it and money poured into it. I got it second hand from ZeroIn Forums and it was a former two tone (in orange) whereby the previous owner just sprayed it black improperly, by the time i got it the paint was flaking off, FPS was very in consistent and hop felt like it did nothing, that said Magazines were in good nick, it came with the heavy recoil set and FPS increasing silencer. Had to strip it down to bits and bolts, clean everything of grease and chipping, flaking paint, bought replacement, spares and upgrade parts from it mostly from Hong Kong since barely any UK stockists for this gun, a load of Grey Primer, Metallic Bronze and Iridescent Black spray paints, spent probably the best part of a week prepping the surfaces, 3 coats of priming followed by 5 coats of paint with up to 24 hours in between each coat to allow drying time (not to mention sanding in between) then 3 coats of lacquer to protect the whole thing. Overall i must say i was very impressed with the final product, that said personally i think it weighs a ton now and looks more like a show gun than something i would skirmish with TBH but i do plan on taking it out to Dragons Lair at some point.

Damn i hope so, London is a nightmare to get parking and i dont fancy hauling guns (in cases) wearing MTP etc in an area that is predominantly multicultural (if you get what i mean) least they get the wrong idea and think that i am part of some far right group.

Sorry if i am late to the party but the one highlighted in bold was the problem i think: I bought one of these once to replace the broken piston in my mates WE SCAR-L and experienced the exact same as you did, gun would fire fine on Semi but on auto a few shots it would lock up and blow the fuse, turns out the Madbull alien pistons are a smidge (i am talking .5mm) too long for most V2 gearboxes, caused me to lose 6 hours of my life trying to figure out why the gearbox kept locking up, replaced it with an SHS blue piston and it worked fine.

Well i suppose i should bust out the guns from the Armoury then: Not shown in the list below is also my Mancraft Powered TM VSR-10, still some stuff to do to that like getting a wooden stock and a proper more secure bipod. WE M9 Beretta in Resident Evil STARS logos etc, have about 3 Gas and 4 CO2 Mags for this thing KSC M93R in all metal construction, have about 4 x 39rds mags for this, looking to get the stock sometime later G&G G733 Revolver, got about 18 shells for this and one speed loader, got for the s**ts and giggles and is only used for back yard plinking as reloading this in a skirmish would be annoying as hell Krytac Trident CRB, just an M4, used mostly as a loan gun to friends and family when they come Airsofting, some cheapo KAC QD Silencer, Clone MAGPUL MBUS Sights and Clone MAGPUL Angled foregrip G&G MP5 A5 modified to have a different RAS Rail at the front with a PEQ box attached, got about 4 mags for this and a clone EoTech 551 holo sight, again another loan gun for friends and family KWA Kriss Vector, a heavily modified Vector, custom spray paint job done by me (and properly too disassembly, primer, paint, lacquer etc etc), got about 7 mags, ModelWorks RAS hand guard, clone SureFire Scout light, 300mm TBB inner barrel with external barrel to go with too, NPAS, Right hand Mag release set G&G TR4-18 (HK 416) This is my gun, the one that will always go with me to games, this nobody borrows, has a Gleissel Rail at the front end, KAC QD Silencer by G&P, front Vertical grip, (not shown) Real steel SureFire Scout Light, Contour ActionCam mount, Real Steel EoTech 552 Holo Sight The future, plan on getting a longer barrelled M4 like weapon using M4 Mags (so that mags can be interchangeable), Polarizing it and using it as a DMR with maybe a real steel Leupold Sights.

Not G&G but it may well fit: http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/element-receiver-lock-pin-set-for-mp5-aeg.html#.VbJj2LNVhBc

Looking very interested in this, widens my choices up even more

My go to Airsoft shop for most Airsoft related stuff. Getting there: about 35 mins from where i live so i never order online just turn up and throw money at them Parking: they have a small (read 3 spaces at most) car park in front of their shop and around the corner is some more Getting in: Some airsoft shops like Pro Airsoft Suuplies staff have to buzz you in but here even though they have a buzzer 9 out of 10 times the door will be freely open so you can just walk in, i think the buzzer is there in case all staff are working in the warehouse Shop size and layout: The shop itself is pretty small probably 24 foot by 12 foot in size but space is well used, they have even managed to fit a small changing room out the back, follow this link to have a look inside: https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Airsoft+Zone/@51.583551,0.173606,3a,75y,318.66h,67.08t/data=!3m8!1e1!3m6!1sMFE1L-MClFsAAAQJOGnKAw!2e0!3e2!6s%2F%2Fgeo0.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fcb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile%26output%3Dthumbnail%26thumb%3D2%26panoid%3DMFE1L-MClFsAAAQJOGnKAw%26w%3D124%26h%3D75%26yaw%3D15%26pitch%3D0%26thumbfov%3D103%26ll%3D51.583551,0.173606!7i13312!8i6656!4m2!3m1!1s0x0000000000000000:0x8918b27ce0ee10e3!6m1!1e1?hl=en Stock: Wide variety of stock almost always available, nearly all of what is in stock on the website is also available in store as they seem to aggressively manage their stock numbers so what is sold in the store is reflected on the website, also managed to get some Modify 8mm Ceramic bearings for a decent price. Staff: As we all know staff can make or break a sale and store, and here the staff can only be described as excellent and superb, quick and willing to help but wont press you for a sale, they are all very knowledgeable in the field of Airsoft so can offer technical advice and if its a harder question the resident techie there can often answer it. They will often do quick tech jobs often without extra payment, will get stuff from the warehouse for you to try even if they know you are not purchasing it, will always test guns and gas mags prior to completing the sale. They also somewhat have some trust in their customer base, they are happy to leave you on the shop floor alone whilst they get bits and pieces for you from the warehouse unlike Pro Airsoft Supplies where a staff member practically follows you everywhere which i find very unnerving. That said i turn up so often that staff know me by face and name. Best Experience with them: One Friday I was fixing my G&G MP5 for an upcoming weekend game as it was shooting a low FPS and when i opened it found the gearbox had cracked, as it was one of those blowback ones (and i quite like the blowback on it) i checked their website and found the gearbox shell was in stock, it was about 1720Hrs and they were due to close at 1800Hrs, was driving on the A12 heading towards them and called (using hands free) at 1745Hrs asking if they had the shell which they did and if they close strictly at 1800Hrs which the staff member said they did, i told him of my predicament and he said they he would keep the shop open for me for another 30mins, managed to get their just before 1800Hrs, made the purchase and was very happy with them about that. I will add that they have a very loyal customer base of which i am a member of, at most Airsoft sites around the Essex area you will always find someone sporting the Airsoft Zone PVC Patch.

Got my Kriss Vector Parts i ordered from them in about 3 days from HK with no added Tax

No problem, i know it was a bit of a long read but i thought rather than just give you a short line and say "yeah he should be fine", i thought to back up my words using legislation and added my own annotations to make it clearer as i know that UK Law can often be written in an archaic way hence why people give lots of money to Lawyers who know how to read this stuff (i am not a Lawyer though).

Right let me try and help you in this context! Using the latest Guidance on Firearms Licensing Law as of March 2015 https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/417199/Guidance_on_Firearms_Licensing_Law_v13.pdf According to Section 1.1, the definition of a Firearm is: "A Firearm is defined as a lethal barrelled weapon of any description from which any shot, bullet or other missile can be discharged" Reading straight on to section 1.2 states: Low powered air weapons are not licensed in England and Wales unless they are of a type declared specially dangerous by the Firearms (Dangerous Air Weapons) Rules 1969 but there are restrictions on their sale. Hmm that restrictions on their sale sounds a lot like "UKARA" to me? Section 1.3 tells us what "Specially Dangerous" means: An air weapon is “specially dangerous” if it is capable of discharging a missile with kinetic energy in excess, in the case of an air pistol, of 6 foot lbs or, in the case of other air weapons,12 foot lbs. Pistol: 6 foot lbs = 8 joules = an FPS of 938FPS using .2g BBs Rifle: 12 foot lbs = 16.3 joules = an FPS of 1326FPS using .2g BBs However the correct part we are after in this guide in the regards to Firearms License is this Section 2.5 and 2.6 states: Testing has been conducted by the Forensic Science Service on the actual lethality thresholds for airsoft BB 6 mm plastic pellets (0.2 grams). This work has become necessary in the light of the Violent Crime Reduction Act since a greater focus has been given to differentiating between realistic imitation firearms (often used for airsoft skirmishing) and firearms above the lethality threshold that would fall to be considered low powered airguns (or Section 5 (1) (a) prohibited weapons if capable of fully automatic fire). Based on that work, we think it is safe to conclude that fully automatic airsoft guns operating at 1.3 joules or less and single shot (or semi automatic) airsoft guns operating at 2.5 joules or less would not engage the lethality threshold crossing over into stricter controls under the Firearms Act. This would mean that airsoft firearms that are also realistic imitation firearms operating at or below these thresholds would, nonetheless, not be required to be sold by a Registered Firearms Dealer but that the other control provisions provided by the Violent Crime Reduction Act would apply. Please note that this has not yet been tested by the courts. Based on the above two paragraphs we can surmise that Airsoft weapons even those firing 6mm .2g BBs at even 2.5 joules of energy DO NOT meet the lethality threshold, because they DO NOT meet the lethality threshold they CANNOT be considered a firearm no matter how realistic they are, therefore it would be unlikely that he would be in breach of his Firearms Ban as that applies specifically to lethal barrelled weapons, furthermore I think a Firearms Ban specifically applies to him if he were to apply for a Firearms Certificate to own a firearm and that he is banned from ever owning such a certificate for any lethal barrel firearm. Airsoft weapons as realistic as they are do not fall under the same category. However there are still restrictions on carrying these things in public, normal common sense (i hope applies). In your case get advice from your local firearms officer or better yet the Firearms Licensing officer, the PC at the Police Station front desk will likely not know the answer to your question or even know where to find it. I hope it helps by pointing you in the right direction.

Missing the Tactical Spork!!

Here for wood parts, though i dont think they do SVD parts: http://www.gotwoodairsoft.co.uk/

Mancraft has a HPA/CO2 conversion kit for the same price as the VSR-10 kit, in fact their "How to install" video is done on an L96

I second Proffink on the TM VSR-10 range of Springer sniper Rifles. I bought one second hand on a forum and it had some upgrades done it but not alot. The previous owner had already upgraded the cylinder, piston, Spring (to an M150 i think) spring guide, cylinder head, installed a zero trigger mech and a hop up arm, it shot ok-ish around 465FPS and fairly straight though shots would veer to the right often. I furthered this by zeroing the scope using a laser bore sight as the scope was well off whack, i shimmed the hop up arm to keep it still, bought a new barrel and barrel spacers so not it shooting straight but still around 465FPS, my field limit is 500FPS. That said you must be prepared to know that Spring Rifles can be very difficult to cock back as your right arm will have to fight that spring in order to fully pull back the bolt (about 3 inches worth of bolt) and frankly after a whole mag of trying to shoot quickly your arm will ache. That said if you find the bolt pull too much hassle like i did as its really heavy, there is a website called http://www.Mancraft.pl obviously based in Poland, there they sell a system called the SDiK which is essentially a refit of the piston to a gas cylinder, you can buy all the accessories from them too including regulator (HPA tank compatible) and a CO2 bulb adaptor. The whole system takes less that 30 minutes to switch from spring to CO2, i managed to stow the regulator and CO2 adaptor in a cheek rest for my VSR-10 and pipe the tubing through the stock so it looks very clean. All in all expect to pay around £150 for the SDiK, regulator, piping, CO2 adapter as well as some spares and delivery. Bolt pull can be done with one or two fingers now and only has to go back an inch, as it is regulated i can set it up for an FPS of 497 consistent shot to shot (some times even 3 or 4 shots in a row), one CO2 bulb lasts about 100 shots, i also have the ability to adapt it to HPA which i probably will when i start polarizing.

Yes i have and its sitting on the desk next to me a Krytac Trident CRB AEG When did i get it: See the second video in the second post as it was made by me (22-05-15) Where did i get it: Pro Airsoft Supplies, London Why did i get it: Wanted another M4 AEG as spare for friends and for possible future build maybe Polarize, didn't want a TM so chose the Krytac based off Jonathon Higgs at Airsoftology, plus a having a large amount of spending money no wife and kids plus decent paying jobs helps What do i think about it: As everyone else here says its a pretty decent gun, the upper, lower and front handguard are all made from quality aluminium, the keymod slots in the front handguard have been machined to Keymod spec so will fit any Keymod parts properly and i like it as its means a slimmer front hand guard. Not a fan of the rear stock as it looks very boxy from a side profile but does allow you to change batteries quickly and has space for big batteries too (currently using some 7.4 LiPos rewired AEG and batteries to Deans), Other than that the outside is pretty stock. The internals is the only place where Krytac has made an effort, the Gearbox has a special cut out for that MOSFET but bare in mind it only has a single signal wire rather than a dual signal wire system so some current still arcs through the trigger contacts, gearbox has cut outs to view the AOE and oil it without having to open it, it also has a quick change spring system which is always a blessing though nothing new. Hop up is pretty good, the chamber is made from plastic but does have a large numbered wheel so you can dial in the hop up and it clicks in place, bucking is a red rubber though looks and feels similar to G&Gs green rubber. Barrel is made from Brass, has a small rubber o-ring on the muzzle end to stabilize it in the outer barrel. Only con of the gearbox is that it appears to be propriety as it has various cut outs for the MOSFET, AOE and oiling holes and also some screw holes for the faux bolt cover to hold on to. What don't i like about it: The pistol grip when i got it stock was terrible, looked like it belonged on an LPEG so bought an after market one and replaced it in 5 minutes so it looks and feels proper. Also the flash hider is plastic and glued in place, as you saw in the video i destroyed mine taking it off and since replaced it with a KAC QD compatible flash hider though i had to use a 1cm barrel extension so that the KAC silencer would fit properly. How does it perform: Pretty well actually, took it to Billericay Airsoft on 12-07-15 as a loan gun to a friend who used it for a day, clocked in about 330FPS on the Chrono and around 16RPS, fired dead straight using some clone Magpul MBUS Sights fitted. About lunch time that friend had to go home (family issues) and my other mate his Systema PTW blew its fuse so could not use it and borrowed the CRB, we played a few games and in his last one he took a pretty nasty fall dislocating his shoulder, Krytac took a tumble too but was totally fine so well built. In conclusion: A pretty good AEG for those who want out of the box reliability, consistency, build and accuracy, ideal for the Airsofter looking to step up from a basic G&G Combat Machine (nothing wrong with those) and is looking for an all metal AEG. Do i use it at Skirmishes, the answer is NO, normally i defer to my G&G TR4-18 (HK 416), why because although out of the box it is not as good it has been tweaked up, I am sure the Krytac can be too but i cant be bothered to spend time a resources on it especially if its a loan gun, further more i like the feel of the G&G a bit better, it has that gimmicky blow back feature (which i actually do like) and has a better mosfet. But its mostly the feel of the G&G TR4-18 that i like the most.

If you want to upgrade your hop then as the other person says, go for it but again if it ain't broke dont fix it. My G&G HK416 is still pretty much stock and shoots well though i too have been considering changing the hop. If you do i would say that a flat hop will be much better than R hop. whilst R hoop will give a better range the time and effort it takes to fit is a butt whilst a flat hop can be done easily. Heres a youtube video on how to do it:

Hi mate Not to plug my own video but i have a disassembly video for the G&G M14 EBR short version, ignore the bit about the EBR body work however the rest of the gun (barrel, gearbox etc) is relevant to you. If its only the outer barrel, upper and rear stock painted then i would recommend you disassemble the gun and strip the paint from them. You can use an aggressive stripper (lol) on the outer barrel as thats made of metal and won't be harmed by the stripper, the upper blue bit and rear stock use Fairy Power Spray otherwise using an aggressive stripper (lol again) may melt parts. I used an Aggressive stripper on my Kriss Vector and it melted certain parts so had to do a complete spray paint job on the gun. You may find that once you have stripped the gun it will look stock again and thats as far as you may want to go. I would recommend your prep your working area to ensure it is clean, sand lightly and wash the parts to be sprayed, apply 1 coat of primer and allow to dry (ideally 24hrs), sand down lightly and apply more primer, allow to dry, do at least two coats of primer and sand it again before Spraying colour. Spray the colour you want and allow to dry same as primer, apply at least 3 to 4 coats of paint with light sanding between coats. Once you have a sufficient number of coats on it you can apply some lacquer to the spray paint to protect it. I spent a a small amount each day for a fortnight, prepping the work area, cleaning and washing parts, priming, sanding, spray painting, sanding and applying lacquer to my Vector and now it looks the mutts nuts a sort of two tone sparkling black and bronze look it still has a few rough parts here and there from the aggressive stripper, nothing i can do about that but on the whole it looks great.

Yah i think his gun is quite old TBH. About the TR4-18 i forgot to add that i teched mine up from the day i got it. The first thing i did was remove the MOSFET they installed and put in my own GATE Nano AAB MOSFET in there instead so no more MOSFET problems for me, i also shimmed, regreased etc etc the rest of the AEG so it shoots in a perfect line witha good 120 foot range on it using .25g bbs

Hi If you are only trying to Zero your scope at home prior to going to a field and rather than do it there and dont want to scare neighbours then I can advise you on a Laser Bore Sight, its simply a laser pen fitted with a long rod and then using the right caliber plastic bit you slot it down the barrel, turn it on and zero your sights to the laser. This is a cheapo one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Red-Laser-Bore-sighter-0-177/dp/B00DSKLQFC/ref=pd_cp_200_0 Though you can find more expensive ones like the Bushnell one for £75. I had a VSR-10 and was having issues zeroing the replica scope then remembered i bought one years ago for target shooting with the Air Training Corps (used to be an RCO).

Let me know how you get on, its sounding like Beesting it is

I throw my two pennies in: ICS: cant't say, i never owned an ICS through my friend does and hes had nothing but trouble especially with that split gearbox, all it allows you to do it quick change the spring and check the AOE but you can do that with; Krytac CRB: Good gun out of the box (mine is still in its box, havn't bout a case for it yet), well made, built in MOSFET (though its only a single signal wire version), quick change spring etc. My only gripes are the pistol grip looks like it comes from an LPEG so change that, the flash hider is made from plastic and is glued on. G&G CM16: Good gun for starters though the receiver is made from plastic unlike the other two which are metal (i am assuming for the ICS) however the gearbox is made the same as G&Gs GT Advanced range so already reinforced and radius'ed with decent gears and motor. It will be enough to get you by. GHK A5: i know nothing about this one So if i were you: Money no object = get the Krytac Money is an object = Get the G&G I will also throw a fast ball and say have you considered the G&G TR4-18 series? I think its slightly cheaper than the Krytac, has a built in double signal wire MOSFET (IMO much better as motor wires completely bypasses the trigger contacts), has a nice if useless pneumatic blowback feature, Given the choice i would probably choose my TR4-18 over my Krytac CRB any day. Anyways heres a review video i made of the Krytac CRB:

TBH i am also leaning towards Beesting as they seem to do full kits. As i say this is a long term goal, i plan to amass the funds (looking to save budget of £1500) for gun, Polarstar system and a scuba tank for refilling, i have a local dive shop in North London in the area that i work in that does full tank refills for £7.

Hi while i cant say anything about the transport of RIFs to the UK from Bulgaria i would say just do the above checks as people above have mentioned. As for sites you say you are in East London Zone 3 Other sites i would care to mention are Dragons Lair Airsoft and Billericay Airsoft as they are fairly nearby. As for Shops i would point you towards Airsoft Zone in Romford though they are very strict in players having UKARA

So guys I am planning to build a DMR type weapon sometime in the next 6 months and have decide to dabble in a HPA system and so base it around that. Bare in mind that i haven't even selected the gun to be the base weapon so its still early stages at this time, so far the only thing i have decided upon yet is that it will use PolarStar. So far i have found athe following UK PolarStar suppliers: Beesting - based in Manchester Grange Airsoft - Coventry Airsoft Emporium - Halifax Of the above 3 only Beesting and Grange Airsoft are mentioned as official Dealers on Polarstars website. So my question to you guys, have you ever bought or dealt with any of the above companies and which one would you recommend?

Trust me i lost about 3 hours of my life tearing down that gearbox and reassembling it trying to figure out why it kept locking the piston to the rear on full auto and the only way to set the AEG back to ready was to put the gun into safe to decompress the spring, every fffing shot on auto it would lock but on semi it worked fine ?? It was only when i pulled the piston out and placed it on my desk standing up in despair that i noticed that it was slightly longer than the original which may i add had its teeth ripped out by the gears (whose teeth also shredded) when my mate decided to use an 11.1 LiPo on stock gears.