Shizbazki

Got my Kriss Vector Parts i ordered from them in about 3 days from HK with no added Tax

No problem, i know it was a bit of a long read but i thought rather than just give you a short line and say "yeah he should be fine", i thought to back up my words using legislation and added my own annotations to make it clearer as i know that UK Law can often be written in an archaic way hence why people give lots of money to Lawyers who know how to read this stuff (i am not a Lawyer though).

Right let me try and help you in this context! Using the latest Guidance on Firearms Licensing Law as of March 2015 https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/417199/Guidance_on_Firearms_Licensing_Law_v13.pdf According to Section 1.1, the definition of a Firearm is: "A Firearm is defined as a lethal barrelled weapon of any description from which any shot, bullet or other missile can be discharged" Reading straight on to section 1.2 states: Low powered air weapons are not licensed in England and Wales unless they are of a type declared specially dangerous by the Firearms (Dangerous Air Weapons) Rules 1969 but there are restrictions on their sale. Hmm that restrictions on their sale sounds a lot like "UKARA" to me? Section 1.3 tells us what "Specially Dangerous" means: An air weapon is “specially dangerous” if it is capable of discharging a missile with kinetic energy in excess, in the case of an air pistol, of 6 foot lbs or, in the case of other air weapons,12 foot lbs. Pistol: 6 foot lbs = 8 joules = an FPS of 938FPS using .2g BBs Rifle: 12 foot lbs = 16.3 joules = an FPS of 1326FPS using .2g BBs However the correct part we are after in this guide in the regards to Firearms License is this Section 2.5 and 2.6 states: Testing has been conducted by the Forensic Science Service on the actual lethality thresholds for airsoft BB 6 mm plastic pellets (0.2 grams). This work has become necessary in the light of the Violent Crime Reduction Act since a greater focus has been given to differentiating between realistic imitation firearms (often used for airsoft skirmishing) and firearms above the lethality threshold that would fall to be considered low powered airguns (or Section 5 (1) (a) prohibited weapons if capable of fully automatic fire). Based on that work, we think it is safe to conclude that fully automatic airsoft guns operating at 1.3 joules or less and single shot (or semi automatic) airsoft guns operating at 2.5 joules or less would not engage the lethality threshold crossing over into stricter controls under the Firearms Act. This would mean that airsoft firearms that are also realistic imitation firearms operating at or below these thresholds would, nonetheless, not be required to be sold by a Registered Firearms Dealer but that the other control provisions provided by the Violent Crime Reduction Act would apply. Please note that this has not yet been tested by the courts. Based on the above two paragraphs we can surmise that Airsoft weapons even those firing 6mm .2g BBs at even 2.5 joules of energy DO NOT meet the lethality threshold, because they DO NOT meet the lethality threshold they CANNOT be considered a firearm no matter how realistic they are, therefore it would be unlikely that he would be in breach of his Firearms Ban as that applies specifically to lethal barrelled weapons, furthermore I think a Firearms Ban specifically applies to him if he were to apply for a Firearms Certificate to own a firearm and that he is banned from ever owning such a certificate for any lethal barrel firearm. Airsoft weapons as realistic as they are do not fall under the same category. However there are still restrictions on carrying these things in public, normal common sense (i hope applies). In your case get advice from your local firearms officer or better yet the Firearms Licensing officer, the PC at the Police Station front desk will likely not know the answer to your question or even know where to find it. I hope it helps by pointing you in the right direction.

Missing the Tactical Spork!!

Here for wood parts, though i dont think they do SVD parts: http://www.gotwoodairsoft.co.uk/

Mancraft has a HPA/CO2 conversion kit for the same price as the VSR-10 kit, in fact their "How to install" video is done on an L96

I second Proffink on the TM VSR-10 range of Springer sniper Rifles. I bought one second hand on a forum and it had some upgrades done it but not alot. The previous owner had already upgraded the cylinder, piston, Spring (to an M150 i think) spring guide, cylinder head, installed a zero trigger mech and a hop up arm, it shot ok-ish around 465FPS and fairly straight though shots would veer to the right often. I furthered this by zeroing the scope using a laser bore sight as the scope was well off whack, i shimmed the hop up arm to keep it still, bought a new barrel and barrel spacers so not it shooting straight but still around 465FPS, my field limit is 500FPS. That said you must be prepared to know that Spring Rifles can be very difficult to cock back as your right arm will have to fight that spring in order to fully pull back the bolt (about 3 inches worth of bolt) and frankly after a whole mag of trying to shoot quickly your arm will ache. That said if you find the bolt pull too much hassle like i did as its really heavy, there is a website called http://www.Mancraft.pl obviously based in Poland, there they sell a system called the SDiK which is essentially a refit of the piston to a gas cylinder, you can buy all the accessories from them too including regulator (HPA tank compatible) and a CO2 bulb adaptor. The whole system takes less that 30 minutes to switch from spring to CO2, i managed to stow the regulator and CO2 adaptor in a cheek rest for my VSR-10 and pipe the tubing through the stock so it looks very clean. All in all expect to pay around £150 for the SDiK, regulator, piping, CO2 adapter as well as some spares and delivery. Bolt pull can be done with one or two fingers now and only has to go back an inch, as it is regulated i can set it up for an FPS of 497 consistent shot to shot (some times even 3 or 4 shots in a row), one CO2 bulb lasts about 100 shots, i also have the ability to adapt it to HPA which i probably will when i start polarizing.

Yes i have and its sitting on the desk next to me a Krytac Trident CRB AEG When did i get it: See the second video in the second post as it was made by me (22-05-15) Where did i get it: Pro Airsoft Supplies, London Why did i get it: Wanted another M4 AEG as spare for friends and for possible future build maybe Polarize, didn't want a TM so chose the Krytac based off Jonathon Higgs at Airsoftology, plus a having a large amount of spending money no wife and kids plus decent paying jobs helps What do i think about it: As everyone else here says its a pretty decent gun, the upper, lower and front handguard are all made from quality aluminium, the keymod slots in the front handguard have been machined to Keymod spec so will fit any Keymod parts properly and i like it as its means a slimmer front hand guard. Not a fan of the rear stock as it looks very boxy from a side profile but does allow you to change batteries quickly and has space for big batteries too (currently using some 7.4 LiPos rewired AEG and batteries to Deans), Other than that the outside is pretty stock. The internals is the only place where Krytac has made an effort, the Gearbox has a special cut out for that MOSFET but bare in mind it only has a single signal wire rather than a dual signal wire system so some current still arcs through the trigger contacts, gearbox has cut outs to view the AOE and oil it without having to open it, it also has a quick change spring system which is always a blessing though nothing new. Hop up is pretty good, the chamber is made from plastic but does have a large numbered wheel so you can dial in the hop up and it clicks in place, bucking is a red rubber though looks and feels similar to G&Gs green rubber. Barrel is made from Brass, has a small rubber o-ring on the muzzle end to stabilize it in the outer barrel. Only con of the gearbox is that it appears to be propriety as it has various cut outs for the MOSFET, AOE and oiling holes and also some screw holes for the faux bolt cover to hold on to. What don't i like about it: The pistol grip when i got it stock was terrible, looked like it belonged on an LPEG so bought an after market one and replaced it in 5 minutes so it looks and feels proper. Also the flash hider is plastic and glued in place, as you saw in the video i destroyed mine taking it off and since replaced it with a KAC QD compatible flash hider though i had to use a 1cm barrel extension so that the KAC silencer would fit properly. How does it perform: Pretty well actually, took it to Billericay Airsoft on 12-07-15 as a loan gun to a friend who used it for a day, clocked in about 330FPS on the Chrono and around 16RPS, fired dead straight using some clone Magpul MBUS Sights fitted. About lunch time that friend had to go home (family issues) and my other mate his Systema PTW blew its fuse so could not use it and borrowed the CRB, we played a few games and in his last one he took a pretty nasty fall dislocating his shoulder, Krytac took a tumble too but was totally fine so well built. In conclusion: A pretty good AEG for those who want out of the box reliability, consistency, build and accuracy, ideal for the Airsofter looking to step up from a basic G&G Combat Machine (nothing wrong with those) and is looking for an all metal AEG. Do i use it at Skirmishes, the answer is NO, normally i defer to my G&G TR4-18 (HK 416), why because although out of the box it is not as good it has been tweaked up, I am sure the Krytac can be too but i cant be bothered to spend time a resources on it especially if its a loan gun, further more i like the feel of the G&G a bit better, it has that gimmicky blow back feature (which i actually do like) and has a better mosfet. But its mostly the feel of the G&G TR4-18 that i like the most.

If you want to upgrade your hop then as the other person says, go for it but again if it ain't broke dont fix it. My G&G HK416 is still pretty much stock and shoots well though i too have been considering changing the hop. If you do i would say that a flat hop will be much better than R hop. whilst R hoop will give a better range the time and effort it takes to fit is a butt whilst a flat hop can be done easily. Heres a youtube video on how to do it:

Hi mate Not to plug my own video but i have a disassembly video for the G&G M14 EBR short version, ignore the bit about the EBR body work however the rest of the gun (barrel, gearbox etc) is relevant to you. If its only the outer barrel, upper and rear stock painted then i would recommend you disassemble the gun and strip the paint from them. You can use an aggressive stripper (lol) on the outer barrel as thats made of metal and won't be harmed by the stripper, the upper blue bit and rear stock use Fairy Power Spray otherwise using an aggressive stripper (lol again) may melt parts. I used an Aggressive stripper on my Kriss Vector and it melted certain parts so had to do a complete spray paint job on the gun. You may find that once you have stripped the gun it will look stock again and thats as far as you may want to go. I would recommend your prep your working area to ensure it is clean, sand lightly and wash the parts to be sprayed, apply 1 coat of primer and allow to dry (ideally 24hrs), sand down lightly and apply more primer, allow to dry, do at least two coats of primer and sand it again before Spraying colour. Spray the colour you want and allow to dry same as primer, apply at least 3 to 4 coats of paint with light sanding between coats. Once you have a sufficient number of coats on it you can apply some lacquer to the spray paint to protect it. I spent a a small amount each day for a fortnight, prepping the work area, cleaning and washing parts, priming, sanding, spray painting, sanding and applying lacquer to my Vector and now it looks the mutts nuts a sort of two tone sparkling black and bronze look it still has a few rough parts here and there from the aggressive stripper, nothing i can do about that but on the whole it looks great.

Yah i think his gun is quite old TBH. About the TR4-18 i forgot to add that i teched mine up from the day i got it. The first thing i did was remove the MOSFET they installed and put in my own GATE Nano AAB MOSFET in there instead so no more MOSFET problems for me, i also shimmed, regreased etc etc the rest of the AEG so it shoots in a perfect line witha good 120 foot range on it using .25g bbs

Hi If you are only trying to Zero your scope at home prior to going to a field and rather than do it there and dont want to scare neighbours then I can advise you on a Laser Bore Sight, its simply a laser pen fitted with a long rod and then using the right caliber plastic bit you slot it down the barrel, turn it on and zero your sights to the laser. This is a cheapo one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Red-Laser-Bore-sighter-0-177/dp/B00DSKLQFC/ref=pd_cp_200_0 Though you can find more expensive ones like the Bushnell one for £75. I had a VSR-10 and was having issues zeroing the replica scope then remembered i bought one years ago for target shooting with the Air Training Corps (used to be an RCO).

Let me know how you get on, its sounding like Beesting it is

I throw my two pennies in: ICS: cant't say, i never owned an ICS through my friend does and hes had nothing but trouble especially with that split gearbox, all it allows you to do it quick change the spring and check the AOE but you can do that with; Krytac CRB: Good gun out of the box (mine is still in its box, havn't bout a case for it yet), well made, built in MOSFET (though its only a single signal wire version), quick change spring etc. My only gripes are the pistol grip looks like it comes from an LPEG so change that, the flash hider is made from plastic and is glued on. G&G CM16: Good gun for starters though the receiver is made from plastic unlike the other two which are metal (i am assuming for the ICS) however the gearbox is made the same as G&Gs GT Advanced range so already reinforced and radius'ed with decent gears and motor. It will be enough to get you by. GHK A5: i know nothing about this one So if i were you: Money no object = get the Krytac Money is an object = Get the G&G I will also throw a fast ball and say have you considered the G&G TR4-18 series? I think its slightly cheaper than the Krytac, has a built in double signal wire MOSFET (IMO much better as motor wires completely bypasses the trigger contacts), has a nice if useless pneumatic blowback feature, Given the choice i would probably choose my TR4-18 over my Krytac CRB any day. Anyways heres a review video i made of the Krytac CRB:

TBH i am also leaning towards Beesting as they seem to do full kits. As i say this is a long term goal, i plan to amass the funds (looking to save budget of £1500) for gun, Polarstar system and a scuba tank for refilling, i have a local dive shop in North London in the area that i work in that does full tank refills for £7.

Hi while i cant say anything about the transport of RIFs to the UK from Bulgaria i would say just do the above checks as people above have mentioned. As for sites you say you are in East London Zone 3 Other sites i would care to mention are Dragons Lair Airsoft and Billericay Airsoft as they are fairly nearby. As for Shops i would point you towards Airsoft Zone in Romford though they are very strict in players having UKARA

So guys I am planning to build a DMR type weapon sometime in the next 6 months and have decide to dabble in a HPA system and so base it around that. Bare in mind that i haven't even selected the gun to be the base weapon so its still early stages at this time, so far the only thing i have decided upon yet is that it will use PolarStar. So far i have found athe following UK PolarStar suppliers: Beesting - based in Manchester Grange Airsoft - Coventry Airsoft Emporium - Halifax Of the above 3 only Beesting and Grange Airsoft are mentioned as official Dealers on Polarstars website. So my question to you guys, have you ever bought or dealt with any of the above companies and which one would you recommend?

Trust me i lost about 3 hours of my life tearing down that gearbox and reassembling it trying to figure out why it kept locking the piston to the rear on full auto and the only way to set the AEG back to ready was to put the gun into safe to decompress the spring, every fffing shot on auto it would lock but on semi it worked fine ?? It was only when i pulled the piston out and placed it on my desk standing up in despair that i noticed that it was slightly longer than the original which may i add had its teeth ripped out by the gears (whose teeth also shredded) when my mate decided to use an 11.1 LiPo on stock gears.

Hi mate i am guessing this is for your SCAR-L? I did some tech work on my mates WE SCAR and found the out of box performance a bit pants (around 280 FPS). Yes i would say the spring also feels weaker than a M100 spring, it was one of the first things i changed in his gun when i upgraded it. As for the piston what i will add is that the WE AEG gearboxes are very sensitive when it comes to the length of the piston, I replaced the original piston with the Mad Bull Alien Green one and could not for the life of me figure out why the gearbox kept locking up on full auto. It wasn't till i measured (with a digital micrometer) the Mad Bull one with the original one that i noticed the Mad Bull one was about half a millimeter longer, when i installed another piston about the same length as the original it worked fine. But yeah, clean the screw and screw hole, add loctite, put it back together, let glue dry and test fire a few shots.

Hi mate, sorry to hear that your 551 go shot to bits, there are no replacement parts for it, looks like you will have to throw it away an get a new one. I would recommend this: http://airsoftzone.co.uk/accessories/scopes-and-red-dots/pc-eotech-lens-protector-guns-modify So far it has done me well is and currently protecting my real steel EOTech 552 sights, it can be a bot of a tight fit so you have to remove the hood and basically slide this into place.

I know its not exactly the latest gun in term on Airsoft but this is my stab at a review for it, keep an eye out for the disassembly and reassembly video soon. https://youtu.be/_QmCzqee2mg

Hi bit late coming but i finally got round to doing the MP5 video review as well as touching on the MP5 RIS Rail compatibility and the safety lever issue too, see it here: https://youtu.be/_QmCzqee2mg

Right update was required. So After waiting ages to get the Vector and starting to worry a little I decided to call them up on 27-05-15, spoke to one of their members of staff and i informed them of my decision to cancel my order for the Vector but send me my other items (some 8mm blanks) that remained on the order. With what i can only call as a "sigh of relief" from him as he sounded like a massive weight (of annoyed Vector customers bugging him because of no Vectors) had been lifted from his shoulders he stated that he was happy to cancel the Vector from the order, refund me the £330 and send the 8mm blanks to me, a day later the blanks arrived Is it OVER! Oh no it wasn't So back in the market for another vector i began scouring Online shops here and abroad, they were either too expensive or out of stock everywhere, eventually i began perusing forums, none here of AF but saw a few decent sales on another, contacted the sellers asking basic info etc whilst waiting for the money to be refunded. Got a few deals going and close to finalizing a sale but was still waiting on the money to be refunded. On 02-06-15 called them back asking where the hell was the refund after 6 days of waiting and was told that they had done it, on the 09-06-15 was still out of pocket of £330 bearing in mind that it was almost 2 weeks since i cancelled the Vector order and still no refund! :@ I called up on 09-06-15 and question the staff there until one of them ended up checking there merchant system to see what stage it was at and then told me that it was pending still, it wasn't until the late afternoon on 10-06-15 that i recieved my money, a full 2 weeks since Vector Cancellation. Furthermore when i called on 09-06-15 and enquired if the Vectors ever did arrived they said no, they were still waiting on them. Sufficed to say guys stay away from them for anything Airsoft related, that said i may still use them to get 8mm blanks but its rare i buy them so dunno if i will ever use them again.

Hi See here for Wires, you need to search for PTFE or Teflon or Silver Wires when searching ebay, they are harder to find than crappy Silicon Wires which i find are too thick for V2 Gearboxes, its a little stiffer and therefore harder to route but once bent in place it stays there. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Hollow-State-Electronics/cable-wire-/_i.html?_fsub=1754266013&_sid=22307073&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 That's where i get my wires for Airsoft from. Specifically this one for black wires: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-19-0-3-PTFE-teflon-silver-plated-copper-wire-/381194589922?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item58c0f7d6e2 And this one for red: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-19-0-3-PTFE-teflon-silver-plated-copper-wire-/171688283142?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27f96b4c06 as for the air nozzle i think it definitely is a normal M4 one, cant be 100% sure as i dont own the SCAR AEG (such as the one seen in the video, its actually my mates).

Hi buddy I recently had a WE SCAR L AEG in which belonged to my friend and i did the following upgrades for him (off the top of my head from what i remember) Battery connectors changed to Deans Installed a GATEs Electronics PICO AAB (this has active braking but they have no AB models too) Used low resistance silver wire and rewired it (i think i used 16AWG but can't remember) Guarder M110 Spring (with a few coils cut off on the piston end to keep it under 350FPS) SHS Piston (i think its the blue one with metal teeth) G&P Xplosive Piston head (it has given me top notch air seal and compression) Tefloned the Cylinder head New Air Nozzle with O-Ring (Can't remember the brand) G&G Original Torque gears (More on this later) G&P M120 High speed motor G&G Cold resistance hop up rubber and bucking Madbull Black Python 6.03mm TBB Tefloned taped the inner barrel to stop wobble Polished the inner barrel Overall it looks like you have all the bases covered, my friends one now shoots between 340 to 345FPS with an average 18RPS. I will add that if i were you change them crappy WE gears stat, i manage to strip the teeth off his gears whilst testing the gun for him once. Lastly here is one of my earlier videos regarding the SCAR. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLuHanEfo2GMumFmihTyIItWbos-2dM1Vt