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Lastly, I thought I might as well take the time out to explain how the feeding mechanism works, since from what I can tell it's a new system. Hopefully they'll bring out an upgrade feeding tube, because I've had nothing but issues with it so far. Here's the feed tube, looking at it from the end where it meets the magazine: The little catch on the top of the hole is under spring tension, which causes it to push down and obstruct the hole a bit like a guillotine. This is because the tube holds BBs inside it, to prevent you dropping 25 every time you remove the magazine. When you insert the magazine it has a sort of corresponding catch, which doubles as the BB blocker: Works exactly the same as the catch on the feeding tube. When you insert the mag into the gun, they sit together like this - just without the spaces in between obviously: The catch on the feeding tube latches into the corresponding part of the magazine which pushes the latch upwards, opening the hole from the photo above, like this: Allowing BBs to freely pass through the mag, into the tube and be held under constant spring tension from the magazine. However, this is where the problem arises. The magazine isn't held in the gun in the right place for the feeding mechanism to actually work. The magazine sits slightly too high, so the hole the BBs are coming from in the magazine, eclipses the hole in the feeding tube, making the gap too small for BBs to fit through. So the only way to get the gun to feed, is to pull the bolt to the rear, tap the magazine to briefly knock the two holes in line enough for one BB to slip through and push the rest one BB along, to get one in the chambre. Then push the bolt back forwards and fire the shot. If you don't do this then the gun never chambres a round, unless you pointing it down at an angle of 30 degrees or more, because the BBs in the feed tube just push the furthest shot forward into the hop unit because of gravity. You can actually forego using the magazine at all and use this method to load shots more generally. But it does making shooting from a prone position impossible. In short, the feeding mechanism has rendered the gun almost unusable. But I will perceiver! Just need to find a way to make the mag sit in the right place, either by modding the feeding tube, or altering the magazine seating position...

My DCU loadout,swapped out the DDPM, random gear thrown together, its not meant to look like a unit, need a headset now what you guys think? thinking about getting some sawtooth or hiking boots as mine are nearlly dead now lol, also please excuse my tired face Cheers, Dave

Ok so here's a take down guide with loadsa pictures. ...This might actually be the most photo heavy post there's ever been on the forums. Anyway, you'll want to start off by taking the scope and its mounting bracket off, just makes it that bit easier to manoeuvre: Then you flip the rifle over and undo the two screws on the bottom, allowing you to separate the barrel, bolt and trigger assembly from the stock: The two screws are here: Note that the longer one goes by the trigger: Once they're out you can lift the barrel up and separate the two parts of the rifle: So now you're sat with this in front of you: Next you want to loosen the two screws on the right hand side, you don't need to fully remove them, they just clamp the barrel inside the receiver - if you can call it that on a sniper: Then, before you pull the barrel out, to prevent any damage coming to the fragile feeding tube, you might want to unfasten it and remove it before sliding the barrel free: Undo these two screws here: Then lift the feeding tube out - be sure to empty it of BBs first, I forgot... it holds 25 and they bounced around all over my dining room... Cat went mental. Now the barrel will slide free of the receiver: Next, we remove the trigger mechanism in order to get at the bolt assembly, to take the trigger out, remove these four screws: Then just pull it free - be aware that the parts on the sides can fall off, so you might want to take note of how they're placed in case they do: Once the trigger is free, you can just slide the bolt assembly out - there is a plastic O-ring that sits around the cylinder at the front end, it holds the barrel in the right place, so don't lose it! So now you'll have an assortment of bits in front of you, which after some organisation, ought to look something like this: So that ought to help if anyone's wanting to carry out any work on it at all. In addition to the take down, I've also taken some better photos of the bolt components and measured them with a tape measure... Not spectacularly accurate, but hopefully it'll help you all direct me to which parts will and won't fit... Here's the cylinder head: I'm not sure it comes out in the photos, but it sort of has a conical shape on the inside, I assume that's a staple thing with snipers, but I thought I'd mention it anyway. Here's the piston: It feels quite flimsy, it's a very light plastic, has a degree of flex in it. The piston head doesn't seem to be removable either. Is that normal in snipers? Spring guide - same plastic as the piston: And one of the whole bolt assembly:

Almost sorted with my plate carrier with some new additions from airsoft show, new WINNING patch and another PMAG

@Ian, I like the massive mags in the 74U. Looks like the Russian version of a few sawn-off G3s with extended mags I've seen in photos from Northern Ireland in the 70's. @Ed - I can only second what's already been said, that sniper sure is a work of art. L85 now has the remaining rail space covered in XTM covers. Useless, but I like the look (much like the original plastic handguard) And now for something completely different (well, different for me) The latest addition to the armoury, JG's Umarex branded G36C. Going to keep it as basic as possible, as frankly it doesn't need anything other than the grip.

I Ride A 2012 Triumph Street Triple 675 As Seen In My Profile Pic