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Morning all, What's the cheapest route to a 90 degree trigger for a vsr with a stock tm trigger box?

Hello's Forum, i gone and brought me a Bolt M16A4 BRSS. my first question is what gears should/can i go with please? was hoping to find some helicals with the newer tappet timing, but cant find a full helical with it yet. i have a set of 13:1 and 18:1 that can be powered by a 33k brushless. i have 11.1 and 7.4 lipo's for it. i did upgrade the hell out of a double bell mk12 before and got that running smooth but i just wanted that recoil as it was missing. other parts are a kestrel etu, 470mm inner and maybe a better hop up unit. thinking of a 509mm inner as it would be correct for the gun, alloy nozzle and metal spring guide.

Rather then just spam up the "what have you just bought" thread, figured i would start this thread insted so after 3d printing some LRB stuff for my VSR And making some silencer foam spacers i decided to have a go at an end cap for my L96 (left is the 3d printed one, right is the original one) Which then lead me to wonder if i could make a flash hider, using the PDI one for inspiration from left to right 1) original first try, realised i had missed the thinning on the top, and part of the under side 2) unfinished print, realised i had forgot the hole in the middle 3) included the hold, but there was a the top dimension wrong 4) finished print that i have not broken out of the support matterial, had another idea 5) Finished print, this one i like, easier simpler to make etc, but the cut outs do go quite high 6) finished print, the barrel hole is intentionally off set by 2mm to try and see if this would work as a LRB modded flash hider more to follow

You used to be able to buy individual sears by Laylax or PDI waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay back in the day (we're talking like 2008 time, when I was first looking at building a VSR), but over the years these have been phased out in favour of complete trigger boxes; even back in 2008, the Laylax Zero triggers and PDI V triggers were starting to muscle in on the individual sears market as the best option for upgrades. I found a set of Action Army 90 degree sears here (https://www.combatsouth.co.uk/action-army-reinforced-sear-set-for-vsr/), but at £70 you're better off getting an S-trigger or Namech Flux trigger, as I don't know how tough the Action Army sears are (I'm guessing they're the stock sears in the AAC T10), and the full trigger units are rated for way more power than we have access to in the UK. That said, with a fairly efficient build, I got up to 2.2J with an m120 in my VSR, so if as Skara says the Action Army sears are rated for m120 springs, you may get enough power, but if not... that'll be £70 of sears just waiting to snap. The S-trigger is rated up to m190 springs and the Namech is apparently rated up to m220 springs, which are far too strong for UK limits, so you won't have to worry about them giving up under normal usage; even with a horrible short barreled build slinging .2s for maximum inefficiency you're probably going to be well over 2.3J with those springs.

Hiya everyone and thankyou for reading. I'm hoping someone could help please. I have got a (CM.045A) Aks-74u vfc clone so a v3 gearbox, I was told it had low compression when I bought it so upon testing it shoots a little limp and even on a 11.1 it feels like something is binding up on the inside. So I thought I'd replace the internals while I'm on so I'm looking for a list of upgrade parts that people has used and know work. I'm looking ideally for faster firing and more range on a 11.1 as this is gonna be my main gun instead of my ak47 which I'll probably sell to fund the upgrades. Or will build up the upgrades over time as money is tight. Also the main thing is which mosfet do I go for, which midrange brand/model is the best in this circumstance. Any help is welcome and very gratefully recieved.

I jinx'd it, it broke last week. 😂 Cycles but doesn't feed. I've now ordered a load of internal gubbins to fix/upgrade it. Do you have the original standard handguard, and if so, do you want to sell it?

I'm one of those upgraded sears people, bought my VSR off someone at my old local site in 2006, still has 20 year old upgraded sears and mosquito mold parts 😂 Only thing I've changed in my ownership is longbow guide rings, maple leaf hop unit and rubber and a new bolt handle. I could replace everything for new but at that point I might as well just buy one second hand that's has everything done and save myself time and money. It's not consistent and fps sometimes varies ~30fps between shots but it soldiers on and has never let me down so I'll use it until it dies then it'll become a wall hangar. The M190 I bought around the same time has also soldiered on and only last month the piston lid shit itself mid game, have had far more issues with newer guns tbh.

hello new to airsoft just bought 2 guns of a freind one is a m16 with a granade launcher and to other on is a sniper saying tokyo murai m asg k but when i look online it keeps coming up with a vsr 10

It's a VSR-10.

WE Apache A3 and KWA USP 9, cheeky little H&K setup as I want to have a few games where I'm not sat at the back like a loser with my VSR and get my fat ass moving a bit more, need to set up my second belt to suit this load out but thankfully won't need a million pistol mag pouches as I won't be running 2 pistols with this. Or maybe I'll run a Mac with these 2 😂

I'm going to guess that It might be a VSR-10 by Tokyo marui? What exactly are you wanting to know? Pictures will help people help you, otherwise we're no more knowledgeable than you are right now! ASGK is a marking that Japanese Airsoft guns have, that certifies certain standards afaik.

The Makarov isn't that quiet. It has quite a loud pop from the CO2. Quietest is the TM MK 23 with silencer attached. Used to run around Copehill at night and my giggling as I shot people was louder than the pistol. If you fancy branching into small form factor rifles instead of pistols, I reckon you could make a TM VSR 1 pretty quiet.

As a lot of threads end up with one of us recommending the Tokyo Marui MWS, and i get PM's asking about it, i figured I'd start a thread to keep all of the information in one place. Here i plan on covering a general overview of the gun, as well as upgrade parts, general maintenance and tuning. If anyone else wants to share any information, guides or even gameplay with their MWS, here is the place to do it. With that being said, lets get on with it. I've had my 2 Tm m4 GBBR's for a little over a year now, and they've got through dozens of changes to get them where they are today. Out of the box they are beautifully finished and boast impressive performance. I bought my first one from Zeroone, who price matched it for me. At the time the gun set me back £430 and the magazines £35, but they have risen quite a bit in price in most places. The gun is incredibly well finished and sports a Cerakoted receiver. Before opening the box, i didn't get what the big deal was about Cerakote, but that all changed after using it over time. The finish is VERY resistant to the hard life I've shown it, and is far more scratch resistant than any paint or anodization on any other gun I've owned. The two I have still don't have a scratch on them. At the rear is a standard m4 stock, which does its job with little wobble, but isn't the nicest one I've ever seen. The railed handguard is very solid and nicely finished with all of the correct numbered markings on the rails. From there you have your usual front triangle iron sight which DOES NOT have a sling attachment at the base. The magazines hold 35 BB's and have a Cerakoted shell to keep them from scratching easily. They have very recently started coming with silent fill valves, but are mostly the normal kind that hiss when filling and spray liquid propane when full. Its worth noting that the valve sits at an angle to the baseplate. One modification i would highly recommend to do is the "green gas mod" which involves removing a long zinc tube from inside the magazine. This allows more gas into the magazine and upping your shots per gas fill dramatically, with some people reporting 150+ shots from a single gas charge. As a side note, i have started to just cut the zinc tube about 1 inch from the base instead of removing it entirely. A video showing how to do it: Chronograph Results: using blaster .20 BB's and green gas i got around 298 fps with a deviation of 2FPS. yes, you heard that right, " FPS. This thing is incredibly consistent! Important information: The inner barrel is 250mm on the 10.5 " CQBR and the 14.5" carbine, meaning on the 14.5" outer you can fit a much longer 370mm inner barrel. The Hop up adjustment dial is similar to Tm pistols and can be located inside the upper receiver by locking the bolt back and looking down the magwell. Due to the way the outer barrel is cut, it's not possible to fit an aftermarket rail onto the gun without one of two things. A barrel adapter ring (PTS, ORGA and a couple of others make them and usually cost £10) or A dytac outer barrel, which has a wider lip, as shown below. Dytac on the left First shots: I took it down to the 20m range at the First and only shop and loaded it up with .28 blaster devils. They had multiple targets there, but i focused on the little spinning targets at the back wall. The orange discs must have been no more than 1.5 inches in diameter and i was hitting it virtually every time with the iron sights. So far, very impressed with the accuracy. So much so, I treated it to a new dress! First internal upgrades: After speaking with Dave about the gun, he explained that the gun wouldnt hop really heavy weight BB's with the standard nub. because it was hollow and squished when applying hop pressure. To remedy this he machined me a great little nub out of brass. Isn't it beautiful!? This meant i could now lift much heavier BB's increasing my range and accuracy even further than the already impressive stock performance. Using this new nub and GEOFF .32 bb''s i was able to get the bb's out 60+M with a flat trajectory. They were making a 1.5-2ft grouping on the plastic bales as seen in the video below. I have SOOO much move to cover, including barrel reviews, customs mods and a DMR build, but its 5;30 am and i need to be up in an hour, so we'll continue this tomorrow

What feature do you think your current one is lacking that you need to upgrade it?

You need to get it up to about 280-290 fps (300 is hot!), which is a considerable increase and, if the current spring is an M100, is going to need at least an M110 spring. However, assuming that the barrel and cylinder are properly matched, you may well have a poor air seal, which you would be well advised to sort out. Give the inner barrel a good clean with isopropyl alcohol as well. You don’t need to upgrade the mosfet just because you install a stronger spring.

Nah, mine's a KJW m700 in a Modelworks m40 kit, with the outer barrel swapped for the Action Army outer barrel to allow it to be threaded so I can fit a suppressor. I pretty much only use gas guns, and most of my guns are bolt actions or DMRs despite most people moaning that they're not consistent enough (unironically a skill issue...); they're great, but you really have to know what your doing, tweak them basically every game day, and you have to own a bunch of different types of gas for different weathers. At the moment I'm using green, but in 6 months time I will be using red or even black gas. And yeah, any 7mm VSR spring I believe (so... most of them. Maple Leaf and Laylax are both 7mm springs I believe). If you want to use a 9mm spring like the Rapax ones, you'll need a 9mm spring guide, but again that's just a standard VSR thing, so any 9mm VSR spring guide should fit.

Pretty sure the Maple Leaf 338 is basically just a VSR built out of Maple Leaf parts. Unless I'm mistaken, I believe you should just be able to use VSR parts in that one, and the Maple Leaf internals should handle springs sufficient to get it to 2.3J. Not sure what other parts it comes with internally, but my go-to for VSRs is also the Action Army VSR hop unit and either a Flamingo + omega nub or 4uantum hop rubber plus the nub that rubber comes with. Can't tell you about the TM m40a5 as I've never used one (my m40a5 is a gas gun).

I'm assuming you don't mean that you have an m110 spring in the bolt rifle expecting more than 1.2J, because m110 would get 1.2J(ish) and that would be my expectation. I'm assuming you mean you had an m130 or something and were expecting 1.8J? I am a gas gun person now, so my understanding of spring stuff is older knowledge, but I will attempt to give some sort of answer from my experience building spring VSRs a few years back So, the M rating is essentially a ballpark estimate of the m/s speed of a 0.2 BB. M100 = 100m/s with a 0.2 BB, or 328fps, M110 = 110m/s, or 360fps, and so on and so forth. AEG and bolt action springs do tend to be designed differently because they are different systems, but the M rating if it has one should be the same, for the platform it's designed for. For example: The m100 AEG spring for my m14 and the sp100 spring (Laylax use sp to denote, but it's the same thing) for my VSR are rated for the same power, but they're very different springs. VSR springs tend to be a lot longer than AEG springs because the VSR cylinder is a lot longer than an AEG cylinder, so if I put a VSR spring in my m14, it's going to have a wildly different power. The VSR sp100 spring is designed so that when that spring is compressed in a VSR with the VSR's compression distance, it will produce the force to propel the 0.2 BB at 100m/s. However, if I put that in an AEG which has a much shorter space, the spring is compressed more and therefore will produce a lot more force when extended, since the spring is compressed a lot more in that much shorter AEG gearbox. The opposite is also true. If you get an AEG spring and put it in a VSR, it will produce far less force (and will probably be less consistent too) since it's supposed to compress more and extend less, but the VSR's cylinder is massively longer. It's also why there are specific springs for the TM PSG1, because that gearbox was pretty different, though I also think it is the same for the v2.5 gearbox in the SR-25 and now I want to dig mine out again to try and fine tune the power again. Probably won't because I never use it, but you've given me food for thought. And after we've considered all of this, then we also have to consider cylinder to barrel ratio (yay, maths!), but I don't think that's going to be the issue here. It could very much be an issue (I don't know your build so I can't say) and will be a factor when it comes to power, but I don't think it is going to cause 0.6J difference on .3s and it's a whole other thing on its own and I don't want to bore everyone here with a wall of text as I talk about it (again). Look, long range stuff is my jam and I like it, okay? 🤣

Hello there. I just wanted to kindly ask, I've noticed there are several airsofters that upgraded their cyma ebr into an electric blowback, I believe connecting a rope/string to the piston and the bolt. I couldn't find tutorials though. Could please anyone gently explain to me how to do it myself?

Building the Ultimate Lightweight HPA LMG: My S&T M249 MK2 SAW Project Going through my airsoft collection, I realized I was missing one key piece — an LMG. Naturally, I thought: why not? I didn’t expect it to become one of the most frustrating builds of my airsoft life. From the start, I knew I was going to HPA it, especially since I had a Backdraft Phoenix engine lying around — a solid engine, though a bit inconsistent in DMR roles. Why I Picked the S&T M249 MK2 SAW Let’s be real — the S&T M249 is just a rebranded A&K Featherweight (also sold under Cybergun), but with a few advantages: V2 gearbox (sounds great at first… more on that later) Lightweight — only 4kg, compared to 5.5–6kg for most other M249s Cheap — cost me just £200 At first, the V2 gearbox and light weight seemed like a win. But that big proprietary nozzle and body flex quickly turned into a massive headache. Out-of-the-Box Performance Running a 7.4V battery, it gave me: 12 RPS 1.1J 30m accuracy with a torso-sized spread Not bad for £200. Decent compression, a metal rack piston, basic MOSFET locked to full auto. It worked — but it wasn’t good. Goals for the Build Fix the weak plastic stock Tighten up the shot spread Increase rate of fire Get consistent mag feeding The Build Process Body Flex & Rail Replacement Because the gun is so light, body flex was a huge issue — even minor misalignment can cause major problems with HPA. I replaced the plastic top and bottom rails with metal ones and added bracing plates. This significantly stiffened the gun and improved alignment. Engine & Electronics Installed the Backdraft Phoenix HPA engine and wired it to a Gate Aster II for better control. Problems started immediately: Sporadic shots Inconsistent feeding Laser shot followed by a 2-meter fart Hop-Up & Feed Ramp Hell The stock hop-up is garbage — cheap, flimsy plastic with lots of flex. Swapped to: Bullgear Featherweight M249 Hop-Up — improved consistency, but feeding issues remained Tried: Drilling stock feed ramp — BBs jammed Anttech feed ramp — flimsy 3-part design, reintroduced flex and made things worse Final Solution: Found a 3D model of the original feed ramp by Gazadonf77 Printed in PA12 nylon (MJF) via 3D People Game changer — fixed all feeding issues Bucking & Barrel Testing Bucking Results: Prometheus Purple: Good but had flyers every 5 shots Quantum: Best range (50–60m), but overhopped everything and grouping was meh Maple Leaf 60°: Winner — torso-size grouping at 50–60m with 0.30g BBs, great price-to-performance Tip: With Bullgear hop-up, use high elasticity buckings. Stiffer ones perform worse. Barrel Results: XT 6.00mm: Tight bore, low PSI, bad consistency ZCI 6.02mm: Better, but still not quite there Stalker Morpheus 6.03mm: Extended crown = more range (70m), but groupings were wild PDI 6.05mm: Winner — 55–65m range, best consistency, 2–3 inch spread. Uses more air but totally worth it. Magazines: A Comedy of Errors The stock S&T mag (9V battery) fed only 12 RPS — upgraded to 7.4V LiPo, gained speed, then shredded the gears (poor plastic internals). Tried: Lonex 200rd & EPM1: Fed great, but too low capacity for an LMG Classic Army M249 mag: Worst of all — inconsistent, weak, loud motor Novritsch M249 mag: Winner — actually a rebranded A&K 2000rd box mag, fed up to 30 RPS on both 7.4V and 9V. Responsive mic, auto shutoff, and only £75. Stock Upgrade The original SAW stock is huge and ideal for batteries, but looks awkward and feels cheap. Didn’t want to pay £50 for a CNC adapter, so: Found an STL file by CitrusPers - Stock adapter Got it printed by 3D People Now using M4 buffer tube + compact stock = lighter and more ergonomic Final Build & Cost Breakdown Part Price S&T M249 MK2 £200 PDI 6.05mm Barrel £60 Backdraft Phoenix HPA Engine £250 (already owned) Gate Aster 2 £65 (already owned) A&K 2000rd Box Mag £75 Bullgear Hop-Up Unit £60 Custom Feed Ramp & Stock Adapter (PA12) £50 Total: ~£760 Final Verdict What I have now is a lightweight LMG, feeding 0.30g–0.32g BBs reliably, with: 55–65m effective range Consistent grouping (~2–3 inch spread) 30 RPS at 1.1J 3,500–4,000 rounds per 48ci tank @ 70 PSI Great for suppressive fire, fun skirmishing, and surprising people who think it can’t reach them. Would I do it again? Probably not. Am I happy with it? Hell yes. Little video of the bad boy shooting

I used my AAP pretty much stock for aaaaaaaaaaages. Swapped the hop rubber for a Flamingo and put in a Hadron H plate and it shot great. Sears will hold up as long as you don't flick it to full auto and start spraying full auto everywhere. I eventually upgraded everything, but with a simple hop rubber and h-plate upgrade for like... £15, it shot really well for a long time. I know a guy with an SSP5. It's fine and will do the job, but my AAP shoots better

I think the whole point of it was ML made so many VSR upgrade parts, that they just up and made a rifle with all the bits installed as standard, so I doubt there is much left to upgrade. Fluted barrel is indeed the deluxe model.

Recently bought the maple leaf 338 and I'm waiting on delivery of the TM m40a5, should be here Wednesday 😎 the 338 shoots brilliant even though I do think its the lower power spring. Over the chronograph im getting 75M/S I did see on youtube that you can get it at 3 power outputs.Even so it's shooting .30 at a good 50m and accurately. I have looked online about them both, but can't find a great deal of information on the 338. Such as what internals does it use? I know it's all maple leaf but is it worth upgrading or not certain parts? And is it a VSR basically with all maple leaf upgrades?I definitely want a higher fps. This will not be a fielded rifle. I only go to a indoor site. But more plinking in the garden. So a high fps is something I really want and of course accuracy is a must. Just not sure what springs i can use for it and will it need upgrades for the new spring? As for the m40a5 again I'd like to upgrade it for a higher power if possible. I know it has a small chamber for the air but are the angry gun mods all I'd need ? I believe it was angry gun anyway lol. Long read i know just going heavy into sniper rifles 👌 any help very much appreciated.

Gas bolt actions and DMRs are pretty much all I use and I think they're fantastic, but I can't recommend them as a first platform as they're finicky and require a lot of tweaking. You will not get the same consistency as a well set up spring or HPA setup (which really ruffles some peoples feathers for some reason), though you can get them consistent enough and the accuracy is just as good. However, every time you use them, you have to spend a bit of time dialling the power in as they're temperature dependent. Also, you can't chase the power limit (which again, really ruffles some peoples feathers) because if you chrono at 2.3J in the morning, you'll be pushing 2.6J by lunch on a warm day. All that said, if you really want a gas bolt action, the Tanaka m700 platform is the best. Pre-ban Tanaka rifles are the best, as it's pretty easy to adjust the power on them, but the clone KJW rifles are just as good, just a bit of a pain to adjust the power by comparison. They definitely need upgrades, regardless of which model you get though. Generally need to swap out the hop unit as the Tanaka unit is an ancient design and while the KJW unit takes VSR rubbers, it's a crap hop unit. Barrel, hop rubber and nub also need swapping out, and on some models you need to think about outer barrel as well, because the standard one houses a 630mm inner which is way too much and joule creeps uncontrollably. You also need to swap out the nozzle as they're way too short on the Tanaka rifles and a good 4mm(ish) short on the KJW, but no airsoft manufacturers make them, so you need to get them custom machined. For DMRs there are a lot more options that will do the job. I built mine on a TM MWS platform as a mk12 mod1 and it slaps, but I know people who have used various VFC rifles to build DMRs to great success, like the m110 or G28, but I can't tell you about those as I have no experience. A lot of work getting the rifles shooting well, and it's still not quite as good as a well-tuned tac41 or VSR as the power fluctuations will be higher due to how gas works and there's nothing you can do about that. However, they are more than accurate enough, and the power fluctuations aren't that awful, just some people get their knickers in a twist if their bolt action rifles aren't doing 3fps consistency. I have 3 VSRs (2x spring, 1x HPA), an SRS and an MTW, all pretty obsessively tuned, yet I still use my m700s, kar98s and my MWSs over them all.