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Higher power DOES put more stress on the gear set and bearings.

I have done it. Here in the land of cowboys and Indians, we have no rules, and no limits to our wankery Here’s Leo’s simple recipe for making the refs come over and stare whenever you test fire on the range… Traditional wisdom is that fast motors and fast gears are not friends. TRADITION LIED: Tienly makes the best brushed motors on the market, if not the cheapest, followed by Star Wei. Quality build and hand-wound armatures become increasingly important if you want your build to be functional in game without the motor grip turning into one of Gusteau’s Microwaveable Plasma Ultrabirritos. Oh yeah, and shredding your brushes while it’s at it. If built well, a 40K brushed motor can get you to 40RPS when paired with 13:1 gears and an 11.1v. Gears: any solid gear set will work for a while, as long as the bevel meshes well with your pinion of choice. To actually get high speed out of this thing without brute forcing it like some sort of wanker ape, we need to push up the efficiency numbers. To hit 40, you need 80% efficiency. 85% gets you to 43. And so on. SHS/rocket work alright. Siegetek are the best (but seemingly nonexistent in the UK). Solink have a good rep with folks that I trust, and are readily available, so I would go with those. Bearings. You can go bushings if you like with no issue, but real speed demons shell out for J-caged bearings, which can handle the increased stress of what we’re about to do to them. Be wary though, as many of these suckers are tall, and can interfere with selector activities. The “shortest” on the market are 2.5mm thick. Spring. To avoid PME, we need to punch that piston fast and forcefully. PDI makes the best, but Guarder comes in a close second. I would suggest buying at least equivalent of an M130 and M140. And to bleed off that extra spring power we… Shortstroke? No. Not before we have to. Short stroking damages both our tappet timing and our pressure spike, which I’ll discuss in a second, so we avoid it if we can. Instead we shorten our barrel. As any tech knows, all the spring strength in the world means nothing if it all blows out your o-rings and packing seal. This is the same for BB acceleration time. If there is no time to accelerate, it matters not what the ultimate velocity could have been. I would aim for 100-150mm and increase if you can. Cheap stock barrels from various manufacturers can be used to great effect in testing before any expensive parts are purchased. Did you know that most G&G ARP9s come with the equivalent of an M130 installed? Short barrel, fast cycle speed, strong spring. To make sure we can feed the frenzy we need a good stiff tappet and strong spring. This isn’t too complicated. Any stock or upgrade tappet that accomplishes the mechanical demand will do just fine. Guarder makes a good one. King arms does as well. Lube the rails and make sure it slides easily. O-ring drag is real. Double o-rings were invented to solve a design/manufacturing tolerance issue, not a design/airseal issue. Nothing wrong with it if it works for you… but Arcturus, Krytac, and I believe Guarder and Lonex make great single o-ring nozzles that may very well provide better fitment with your nozzle tube and less drag while you’re at it. Pick a strong, light piston with a POM head and ditch those bearings on the PH itself. They’re worthless. You need a total weight of about 15gs to be successful here. The easiest way is to use an SHS blue with the big holes and any decent POM head. Lonex, Gate, etc, etc. You can also remove material from any good quality one. Lonex Red FMRs and Arcturus poly pistons are prime for this. As long as the cylinder and cylinder head seal and don’t have any serious tolerance issues with your other parts, they’ll do just fine. You can easily polish stock brass cylinders to near mirrors of glassy perfection. But if you need to buy one… the Guarder Chromes are nice. As long as you have at least half the cylinder the porting doesn’t matter in the slightest for this. Don’t listen to Negative Airsoft, he does not understand the physics of ported cylinders; the port is not to let air into the cylinder, it’s to allow piston preacceleration. Which brings me back to why we don’t short stroke. When the piston accelerates before sealing with the cylinder, it creates a beautiful little pressure spike that effectively gives you a lot more oomph for less. Ask any HPA user if raising the pressure on their reg changes anything and you’ll understand. Less useful knowledge in this specific case, but great for general teching. Your shimming must be the shimming of Gilgamech and BBkidnu, the great shimmers of yore. We Americans look to George Shimmington. And to power this all, you need a good battery pack. Let’s face it, the vast majority of battery makers and sellers are liars. The packs aren’t IR matched, the capacity and discharge rating are blatant untruths, and the assembly quality is poor. Running your packs at above capacity KILLS YOUR PACKS. If you plug in a beefier battery and your gun gets faster, you’re doing this. You have two ways to combat this. #1 Overcompensate. Recognize the lies, and go so far above and beyond that even the lies place you easily in the green. Turnigy NanoTechs are good candidates. #2 Buy an actually good pack. Kypom are the best I know of. Gens Ace comes second. On the American Airsoft forums we happen to have a guy with a lot of mechanical engineering experience who can actually test cell IR ratings, true capacity, and discharge rates. He’s tested quite a few, and Kypom are consistently closest to advertised. Hopefully some of this is helpful to you! tech on -Leo

I think we’re all forgetting something here. When doing any Airsoft tech work, make sure to open the gun up and get visuals on everything before you start ordering! Not only could you save on shipping and time by ordering everything you actually need at once, you also might find that certain stock parts are fine and dandy and don’t need replacement after all. I speak from mistakes made—learn from mine! 😅

Yes. They don’t active brake. At all. Brushless motors don’t do active braking, as their circuitry is not built to have raw current flow backwards into it. This is also why it’s a bad idea to use Perun ETUs + brushless, as even the little startup beeping incorporates use of reverse polarity. I have to agree with the above suggestions to limit overspin mechanically, either via increased spring rate or increased gear ratio. These are sound ideas that will almost certainly remove possibility of blowing up your very expensive motor.

In short, the actual voltage of 11.1v (or 12.6v fully charged) will cause no more damage to your Aster than a 7.4v or 9.6v would. The increased speed doesn’t actually harm your bearings more. The gear rotating faster doesn’t put more lateral stress on the bearing cage, but instead it is your spring doing the damage there. However, the increased speed could cause issues with PME, which would then require a stronger spring to alleviate, which would end up putting more stress on your bearings and oh my now we are making the build less reliable! It’s different for every build (and if you’re using the stock G&G spring then you actually have a stronger than normal spring in there), but the typical “PME ceiling” for a build around this power level is about 25 RPS. I have pushed a 1J build to 30 before, and I’ve also seen 1.5J builds experience PME at 25, so take the time to test your own build and work out all the little details! In short, as long as you don’t knacker anything up and use good tech sense you’ll be totally fine.

A mummy covered in chocolate and nuts has been discovered in Egypt. Archaeologists believe it may be Pharaoh Roche.

They're not great on the WE 226, bit too wide. WE 226 is about an extra 30% wider than the desert warrior

That thing looks sick! If you like the ergo of the thumbhole lower foregrip and don't want to replace it, ExE on YouTube has a good wood furniture refinishing guide for NATO's cold war oiled wood type furnitures or soviet style resin coated woods. If you want a different finish, I'm sure there are other finishing guides for that wood type. And im sure sanding that's doable, If not time consuming. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXkF_iNQR8o&t=284s Here's Explosive Enterprises' guide on simple NATO/USSR wood finishes.

An option that isn't obscenely expensive, greatly welcomed.

Looks like Well Pro are joining Toxicant and APFG and doing a GBBR XM5/M7. It will probably use VFCs 7.62 platform as a base considering Well Pro's existing relationship with VFC's parts so no doubt better than Toxicant's somewhat pants effort.

I have one of these ... quite good for the minimal cost. Holds my TM Desert Warrior with X300u quite securely

Oh man... I'd be all over that bren (price depending) and me being me would have to pay with it, and convert to a L4...

I'm based in between Derby and Nottingham mate, and yeah the advise I'd good i agree.. but as I dont drive and with this being a massivly expensive hobby, I definitely need to get my driving sorted out first off i think & then ill get myself properly into the sport Oh & I paid £160 for it and he's giving me £100 back