Upgrades

[Airsoftazz]

Hi all got a g+g cm16 wildhog 12" was just wondering if anyone had a recommended barrel upgrade? As in make, size etc also suppressor amd is it worth getting a peq box? As I know nothing only played my first game last week, brought the gun 4 years ago had blow dust of the box 😂 but absolutely love it and can't wait to play my next game. Also if anyone has any upgrade info on the john wick tarran tactical pistol would be much appreciated as I've just purchased one. 

Thanks all 

[Speedbird_666]

6 minutes ago, Airsoftazz said:

Hi all got a g+g cm16 wildhog 12" was just wondering if anyone had a recommended barrel upgrade?

 

G&G list a 304mm inner barrel for the 12in Wildhog. That's not a common size but a 300mm will work fine - ZCI make decent enough barrels

 

11 minutes ago, Airsoftazz said:

also suppressor

 

Measure the diameter of this bit - and find a supressor of equal or smaller size - with a 14mm Negative (CCW) thread. The suppressor will have to sit partially inside the rail. The gun comes with a sound amplifier from the factory - makes the gun 'pop' when shooting. Just taking it off will quieten the gun down a fair bit - but will look a bit weird without something on the end of the barrel so a suppressor will 'complete' the look of the gun, even if they have very little effect on AEGs.

 

 

18 minutes ago, Airsoftazz said:

worth getting a peq box?

 

No. Unless you intended to hit targets at zero dark thirty rocking your quad-tube NVGs with the rest of your 'operator' team

 

And if you do get one - green lasers are banned at a lot of sites because they can cause permanent eye damage.

 

If you are building a replica of a real-world setup (i.e. CAG or DEVGRU blaster) - then by all means go for it. But slapping one on a G&G for giggles? Nah.

 

 

 

[MrTea]

Ideally, you want an inner barrel that matches (or as close as possible) to your original inner barrel length. Additionally, if you're changing the inner barrel i'd suggest doing the bucking and nub at the same time. Personally, I always use the Maple Leaf Macaron 60 degree bucking on AEGs with the Maple Leaf Omega nub. Usually around £15-£20.

 

Suppressors are mainly used for hiding longer inner barrels without having buying a longer outer barrel/handguard, housing tracer units or purely for aesthetics. Not functionality. 90% of noise from an AEG comes from the gearbox and not the muzzle.

 

Peq boxes are pointless and mostly for aethetics or external batteries.

[Adolf Hamster]

Play several games with the gun as-stock, do nothing but clean the barrel.

 

Figure out your playstyle, are you getting up close and personal? plinking from distance?

 

Have a good notion in mind of how the gun is performing, and what about its current performance needs improving.

 

Then its time to start talking about how to go about improving the performance to make it better at doing what you need it to do.

[Cannonfodder]

As above. Also one of the cheapest and most effective "upgrades" is to simply switch to heavier ammo

[Emergencychimps]

3 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

Play several games with the gun as-stock, do nothing but clean the barrel.

 

Figure out your playstyle, are you getting up close and personal? plinking from distance?

 

Have a good notion in mind of how the gun is performing, and what about its current performance needs improving.

 

Then its time to start talking about how to go about improving the performance to make it better at doing what you need it to do.

 

This! 

 

Most "upgrades" cock up a well engineered rif. Use it, decide what and if you think the RIF is lacking. It's very easy to focus on "upgrades" that actually make your RIF worse. 

 

How does your RIF compare in performance, side by side, to someone else's RIF? Considering how you play, do you then need to "upgrade" your RIF. 

 

Generally, I'd say save your money and put it towards a new primary RIF. Not that you need it, but in x amount of weeks you're going to get bored of your current RIF and want something that's different, an SMG, a gbbr, an AK etc. don't buy a back up RIF, when buying, get something you'll love more than your current one. 

 

The only thing I will say, is that if you aren't getting the range you want now and it's been sat there with the hop on doing nothing for 4 years, a new hop rubber wouldn't be a bad move (but a good idea to compare to someone elses range would be sensible in making the decision as to whether this is needed now).  If your FPS is below 300 on a 0.2 gram bb, then that would make me take action sooner than I have recommended. 

 

Peq boxes are nowadays, pretty much purely for looks (I run them) but even if you had night vision, some sites are banning IR lasers and there are so many players with NV, it's a giveaway of your location. 

 

A red dot sight (and screen protector) is sensible, if only to improve your first shot hits and use 0.25 or 0.3 gram bbs. 

[navyvet86]

Agree fully with previous posts.

 

If and when you upgrade I personally recommend madbull 6.01 barrels for consistency

[Leo Greer]

Controversial opinion incoming: you get way more accuracy from simply stabilizing your current setup than from replacing parts.

 

Polish your current inner barrel, wrap it in scotch or teflon tape until it fits tightly with the outer barrel.

 

Shim your hop arm with scotch or aluminum tape.

 

Shim your hop unit with aluminum tape, O-rings, or whatever else provides consistent pressure. You want it to be just a little hard to put the upper receiver back on. (springs are fine but not optimal)

 

Look down your inner barrel with a flashlight and make sure the nozzle is centered.

 

Things like this are huge accuracy gains--in my experience I gain much more accuracy by doing these mods than by adding aftermarket barrels and crap, since without stabilization the barrel can still wiggle and wobble, and the upgrade is useless. A millimeter or less at the barrel translates to feet downrange.

 

And if you want to go further while still keeping it cheap, flat hop your rubber and then make a flat nub out of 8mm vinyl tubing. You're probably in the UK, so a ML Super Macaron and plastic nub is a quality cheap option anyways, but if you want to feel like you really did something, along with saving just a couple more beans... flat hop is the way to go.

[Tackle]

As has been said, "if it ain't broke don't fix it", same goes for the pistol, you may do more harm than good & your wallet won't thank you for it. 

Get out & play, maybe compare range & accuracy against other players guns at your local sites range (most sites have one where they chrono), you might be pleasantly surprised at the results. 

If what your looking to spend on upgrades is burning a hole in your pocket, maybe consider putting it towards a second primary rifle, never hurts to have two as nothing spoils a day quicker than your gun letting you down & no backup. 

[Airsoftazz]

Hi all, thank-you all for your replies/advice/recommendations its been much appreciated.

 

So I took the advice of just getting to know the gun better and since my first (only) post.  I've played a few more times and to be honest the gun hasn't let me down at all, rpm/accuracy etc.

 

I've took out a fair few enemy targets 😂 (I do run round like I'm in cod though)

 

Anyway back to the gun. So I've opted to play with .28 and chronos in at 240-242 fps. With me only ever playing with my rif I don't know how that compares to other similar models to mine.

My friend has the same gun but the 13.5 length his chronos at around 245-249 .28. (Not sure why he gets abit more out of his)

 

ML is what I decided to go for the bucking and nub and I wrapped my inner barrel and straight away I noticed the difference in accuracy. I'm not saying it was massive but definitely noticed. The barrel is stock still which is 6.05mm If I was to put a 6.02mm I know it would give me more accuracy which is great but would it increase my fps which is primarily what I'm wanting to do? Or is that purely from the spring or motor?

 

Also would love to focus on trying to get more rpm/response etc. Would I need to look at trigger and gearbox for that?

 

Baring in mind I wouldn't be doing any of this work myself wouldn't know where to start. So if anyone could recommend shops that do upgrades would be appreciated thanks. 

 

And one last question if anyone scrolls down this far 😂 very much interested in getting my first smg could anyone recommend one? I have been looking at the evo scorpion (ultimate boost edition) if anyone has ever played with one? 

Thanks all.

[Leo Greer]

Changing to a 6.02mm will increase your FPS. Air volume, air pressure, air seal, and spring strength are the factors that affect FPS.

 

How much energy your spring is adding to how much at air what pressure with what degree of transfer to your BB.

 

A tighter barrel gives you a higher transfer. These barrels won’t necessarily increase accuracy (and the range gain from that amount of FPS is minimal at best), you sticking with your stock barrel is a very viable option, but there’s nothing wrong with aftermarket barrels like the ZCI, or “premium” options like the Lambda SMART or “Five and One”.

 

To get more RPS/trigger response, you have to work with a balance. Basically, if your gears are cycling too fast, they will catch the piston before it fully returns, causing bad wear at best, and at worst, catastrophic gearbox failure.

 

The answer to this is to make your spring stronger, so the piston returns faster and the gears catch at the right time. The trouble is you’re now increasing your FPS, which may put you above field limits. It’s a give and take.

 

If you’re taking it to a tech anyways, they’ll have their own way of doing things that’s likely to be completely different from my own. However, here is what I would do, assuming you’re trying to stay under UK rifleman joule limits:

 

According to my calcs, you’re at .80J with .28g. This isn’t too much room to work with.

 

First off, I would change to a neodymium 30K motor. The cheap option is a motor from ChiHai Shenzhen, who OEMs for a massive amount of companies. I was able to get any RPM shipped to me in the USA for $40 USD.

 

The more expensive option is a Tienly, which you really don’t need.

 

You could also use an Arcturus 28K 19T if y’all have them available in the UK.

 

The only reason I don’t recommend the SHS high torque or the ASG 30K boost, is that neither are actually 30K, instead clocking in at about 35K, which may be a little fast.

 

 

After you have a 30K motor, the RPS should be in between 20-23, and you now have the power to pull whatever gears and spring you want.

 

Assuming you’re not getting PME or double firing on this setup, you can now play the balance of using faster gears (16:1, 13:1, SHS/Rocket being the recommended brand, which should land you 25-27 and 29-31 RPS respectively), and trigger response to match.

 

If you find you’re getting PME, or double shooting, the answer to both problems is to short stroke, and then increase your spring power. All techs will do this differently…

 

I would short stroke two teeth off the release side and use a true M110, and change spring power as needed. I trust springs from Guarder and PDI, as they are both hard springs that don’t lose power over time. Soft springs (SHS,etc) will lose power, bend out of shape, and can cause serious wear and damage to your other internals.

 

As a side note, the easiest way by far to increase your RPS and response is to use an 11.1v LiPo. If you get double shots, see above.

 

And, as another side note, you can shorten your inner barrel to decrease FPS, which will give you more room to increase spring power. With a shorter barrel, more air is wasted, and the BB doesn’t have time to take advantage of it.

 

I have a build right now that shoots under 1J at 35 RPS, thanks to having a super short inner.