Jump to content

WE gbbRifles


SBoardley
 Share

This thread is over three months old. Please be sure that your post is appropriate as it will revive this otherwise old (and possibly forgotten) topic.

Recommended Posts

Okay, I know these are quite an old and established brand now,with varying opinions on quality and usability, but I’ve searched the archives and can’t find anything meaningful. So here goes…

I am starting this thread as there seems to be a flurry of interest in the WE gbbr platforms recently. Whether you are interested, or own an m4/16, AK derivative, M14, G36, G3, SM8/ Mp7 etc (no pistols please), this is your opportunity to show boat your builds!!

External upgrades, or more importantly internal upgrades; if you would like to post what works for you, or what hasn’t worked for you? How did you get yours to be reliably skirmishable? Best hop upgrades, inner barrels? What’s your maintenance regime? What breaks or what haven’t you needed to change? Everything is on the table!

it would be nice to make this thread a source of valuable information for old hands as well as new owners to what I’ve always believed ( since 2007 and my closed bolt M4 cqb) is a great and realistic brand to own for both collectors and players alike. 
so fire away; let’s see your pics and tech tips please!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can wholeheartedly recommend the Apache for a GBB SMG. 

Been my go to for the past year. One quibble I did have was that for hop adjustment you have to remove the handguard and suppressor, but once set it hasn't moved since.

The upgrades I've done are a maple leaf green hop rubber and crazy jet barrel., and by god, this thing can reach out and hit someone from a very good distance!

The crazy jet barrel is shorter than the standard barrel so I made my own suppressors for it.

All the internals are still in really good condition, so hopefully will do for a good while yet.

 

 

mp5.jpg

Edited by sjhirst
Link to comment
Share on other sites

L11P3060002.thumb.JPG.7d83d5cf5114e989f20740ba532d112c.JPG

 

273489376_536713244153652_4580019896230775796_n.thumb.png.7ac69db5b0a1c510f5f2c07a900d65e9.png

L119 A1 short (the top one is mine) and A2 long build in progress. 

Both have stock hop with Maple leaf rubber and omega nub fitted and Crazy jet barrels. The A1 has an RAtec NPAS but the A2 is a DMR so runs unfettered. The A1 has RA tec internals in the trigger box but not due to any failures just that I had them and decided to fit them. The A1 has had a lot of use with typically 1000 / 1200 rounds through it on a game day and loads in the garden. No failures of stock parts and both run red gas pretty much all year unless its a very hot day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, SBoardley said:

@Nick G love the a1. Classic. The new “long” has yet to grow on me.  

Yep I prefer the A1 to the A2 tbh, but I had the front spare after i swapped my aeg A2 to a short , so ....... 🤣

Link to comment
Share on other sites

M4/16 tech tip. 
 Even though there are a few vids on YouTube regarding this, I just wanted to put this up as a short cut for anyone who needs it…

Bolt stop function. 
probably the most ( and generally only) disappointing thing about the m4 platform for me was the quickly deteriorating bolt stop function. I scratched my head and tried several mods to improve this; adding material to the underside of the bolt stop arm, removing material from the lug on the side of the bolt stop arm, even removing the spring behind the bolt stop. 
then I found a YouTube channel which explained that if you bought some aeg gear box shims, and placed one either side of the bolt stop, held in with the pin, this solves the issue by stopping the bolt stop from moving laterally, taking any play out. 
to my surprise and joy, this solved it immediately, resulting in 100% bolt lock on empty. 
so , don’t despair. There is a simple fix that anyone can do in less than five minutes!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Anyone with an ak74su, and looking to fit a different handguard, the cyma keymod one fits, with a fair bit of dremelling.

The front of the top handguard still needs to either be drilled and secured to the bottom or adapted another way. It is a good tight friction fit, but I'm going to secure it down further.

The insides have to be widened to allow for the WE fitments, but all good in the end :)

 

cyma handguard.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys,

 

long time gbbr owner, own no AEGs , purely a gas guy.

 

normally run TM or VFC, but had an opportunity to get a we m4a1 open bolt cheap, needed some work, now seeing as over the years I’ve upgraded fixed all my gbbr rifles I thought hey why not I can fix a we , specially as it’s a more simpler system than the ZET system 

 

this issue I’m running into is my loading nozzle is broken one side chasing Jams then venting all the gas, that also said I believe that the pressure fleut inside Could be knackered as not t enough gas through.

 

I’m going to purchase a new nozzle from milspec but my t is , does this nozzle include the fluet valve already inside normally.

 

i am waiting to hear from the shop too anyone experienced any similar issues 

 

note i dont wanr a npas as im going to try out these lfs discs 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Regamuffin said:

Hey guys,

 

long time gbbr owner, own no AEGs , purely a gas guy.

 

normally run TM or VFC, but had an opportunity to get a we m4a1 open bolt cheap, needed some work, now seeing as over the years I’ve upgraded fixed all my gbbr rifles I thought hey why not I can fix a we , specially as it’s a more simpler system than the ZET system 

 

this issue I’m running into is my loading nozzle is broken one side chasing Jams then venting all the gas, that also said I believe that the pressure fleut inside Could be knackered as not t enough gas through.

 

I’m going to purchase a new nozzle from milspec but my t is , does this nozzle include the fluet valve already inside normally.

 

i am waiting to hear from the shop too anyone experienced any similar issues 

 

note i dont wanr a npas as im going to try out these lfs discs 

Yes. The nozzles come complete ready to drop in. I use a white lfs disc in one of my m4’s which chrono around 300 on .25g. I use .25g as one of the cqb sites I play at limits weights to max .25g 

angry gun mpa works pretty well too. Complete nozzle with plastic npas. Though I had to swap out the oring on the back for the stock WE one as it was a little baggy and jammed up the bolt. 

Edited by SBoardley
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

8 hours ago, SBoardley said:

Yes. The nozzles come complete ready to drop in. I use a white lfs disc in one of my m4’s which chrono around 300 on .25g. I use .25g as one of the cqb sites I play at limits weights to max .25g 

angry gun mpa works pretty well too. Complete nozzle with plastic npas. Though I had to swap out the oring on the back for the stock WE one as it was a little baggy and jammed up the bolt. 

You bud are an absolute star

 

thank you 

Edited by Regamuffin
Duplicate
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Id say the same- get the angry gun nozzle. I prefer them over the ra tech stuff!

LFS discs work a treat aswell. Milspec can be a bit..."temperamental" in regards to replies, judging by past comments ive seen lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess i got another question, ive checked the nozzle return spring all sound.

 

but I’m struggling to get the bolt cycled in turn causing it to stop half way back into battery and causing the mag to vent al its gas

 

bolt cycles freely manually, anyone had this before

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, Regamuffin said:

I guess i got another question, ive checked the nozzle return spring all sound.

 

but I’m struggling to get the bolt cycled in turn causing it to stop half way back into battery and causing the mag to vent al its gas

 

bolt cycles freely manually, anyone had this before

Have you checked the buffer detent? If this is loose ie sticking up too far, the bolt can catch it and not cycle back to reset. 

Also the nozzle guide may be damaged… the little piece on the side of the bolt that locks in. If this is damaged the nozzle can twist causing friction. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Regamuffin said:

So as it stands ive got a new nozzle on order, the bolt carrier looks all smooth and ok.

 

buffer detent? 
 

i

The buffer detent is the stud that keeps the buffer in the tube ( receiver extension/ buffer tube) on older WE’s these can sit a taddle high or work loose; in effect they rise and catch the bolt. The bolt has a groove that lets it ride over the detent. Look for scratches or damage to the groove or rear of bolt. These are signs it’s moved. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Regamuffin said:

I think i might have found the problem its as soon as i pull the trigger the gas all vents, like the trigger is stuck on but not 

Does the trigger reset when you cock it manually?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it resets it’s a bolt/ nozzle problem. Have you checked the detent and underside of the bolt for damage?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, SBoardley said:

If it resets it’s a bolt/ nozzle problem. Have you checked the detent and underside of the bolt for damage?

Yeah checked the detent, was sotting slightly up, thread wise, wound back in, checked bolt nozzle guide, all good,

 

Load up mags fire click gas all vents bolt forward postiob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This thread is over three months old. Please be sure that your post is appropriate as it will revive this otherwise old (and possibly forgotten) topic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...