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Ian_Gere

Ian's guide to noobism on a tight budget.

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Nice guide Ian! Only two things I'd change- as its about being on a tight budget, I dont think an l85 is worth including and that MAG dont make high caps.

(and possibly change the price of gbbr mags to £35 :D )

 

Other than that it's good to go :)

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Thanks Tac.

 

@M_P: whose STANAG hi cap mags would you recommend?

 

I take your point about the L85, but it's there to represent bullpups in general, because they do need a different stance / way of holding the gun - arms closer to the body, slightly more 'scrunched' in the body...

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Oh Ian hate to piss on your bonfire but this should really be in guides , It says to in the title . ;)

Just kidding mate , great guide .

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Thanks Tac.

 

@M_P: whose STANAG hi cap mags would you recommend?

 

I take your point about the L85, but it's there to represent bullpups in general, because they do need a different stance / way of holding the gun - arms closer to the body, slightly more 'scrunched' in the body...

Ive only ever used ICS ones which were good but probably expensive. JG ones aren't bad, my friend had some but probably impossible to find. Cyma are generally good quality so I imagine they aren't bad but then it'll vary gun-to-gun.

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Great information. Might be a good idea to mention that the kind of gear you'll want to use will be different for indoor sites, though.

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Yeah, you've mentioned it Spawnah. There's loads of stuff that I don't know much about and urban CQB is one of them: I've only been twice. That and I don't like M4's and have wanted other guns before an L85, so I know bugger all about STANAG mags. Still, having both badly burned my thumb lighting a smoke bomb upside down with a lighter, and recently leaned on a live BFG, as Bottledcheek says, I am a dick an expert on pyro safety.

 

:lol:

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Nice guide Ian! I hope my topics weren't that bad, I thought the questions were reasonable! You covered everything, good job! ;)

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I think this has all just been an elaborate ruse...

Ian's true goal was to win this year's "most liked comment" award. :angry:

 

 

 

 

Right? :huh:

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I think this has all just been an elaborate ruse...

 

Ian's true goal was to win this year's "most liked comment" award. :angry:

 

 

 

 

Right? :huh:

Busted! I live for the opprobrium of perfect strangers.

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Cracking guide Ian. Can already think of a few recent users who could have done with this guide before posting their threads.

 

Good work!

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As a slight additional, Hero-Shark has stopped making eye-pro for a year or two as he has gotten a bit tired of it, he might do the special order one as well as give advice.

Unfortunately it's a case of wait and hope in regards to Hero-Shark.

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As a slight additional, Hero-Shark has stopped making eye-pro for a year or two as he has gotten a bit tired of it, he might do the special order one as well as give advice.

Unfortunately it's a case of wait and hope in regards to Hero-Shark.

Ah, thanks for that info Geoff. Bit of a bummer that. Not that they're perfect by any means, but they're tough and way better than even a mildly misted lens, nevermind what we might call properly fogged.

 

I've got a project on the go right now that could result in step by step instructions on how to produce the dogs' bollocks of eyepro for yourselves, and I might make a few pairs for sale. The trouble is that to take the project forward from where I've got to is going to involve actually tempering the steel, so if I was to sell any, they would be a fcuk sight more expensive than Hero Shark :lol:

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Just use a plumbers' butane blowtorch on that bitch, that's how we temper tools we make on my BTEC course. They're not too expensive either, so tempering wouldn't really need a massive price hike

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I'm working on replacements for ESS Advancer V12 lenses firstly, Tac.

 

I'm not sure I could get the whole lens shape glowing yellow at once with a butane torch, so I can quench it in oil to harden the SS304 0.9mm wires of the mesh. I'm thinking of using anthracite smokeless fuel and a bellows on my coal fireplace.

 

Do you reckon sunflower oil at 230°C has a sufficiently high boiling point to be worth using it instead of water?

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I think you might be able to get it glowing yellow using sunflower oil. Is the SS304 steel you're using carbon?

The temperature colour chart i've found for carbon steel does show a slight peachy/yellow tinge for it when heated between 193 and 216 degrees C, however the temperature you mentioned shows a deeper orange/brown colour.

 

In theory it may be possible, but you'd need an extremely powerful industrial fast-food grade fryer to do it.

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