Speedbird_666

Pretty sure its a first gen version if it was originally front wired. The newer ones (2015 onwards) are rear wired out of the factory along with a sprinkling of other changes. I quite fancy one. No idea why though.

Yes, but they are just...ok. Had some problems ordering stuff from them, their stock levels were not updated properly on the website. A bit of toing and froing and then a cancelled order. Had two other orders and there was small issues with both (wrong size on one, wrong colour on the other). All rectified in the end, just a bit annoying. BUT this was a few years ago now, and for the money Bulldog stuff is pretty good. I couldn't fault the quality of the chest rig I had and I'm still using the ECU2 Trousers as my go-to kit, I've had them since 2012. If you use PayPal, you are covered with buyers protection anyway, so I would say go ahead and order what you want. Just keep an eye out for voucher codes, they often do ~10% discount offers throughout the year.

Funnily enough, my son's Specna Edge's Gate X-ASR has just developed an identical issue to you. The gun is well shimmed, stock gears, SHS Hi-torque motor. Never really gets hot, and only uses 7.4v LiPos. It'll fire a few a few shots, stop and blink red/green for a 3-4 seconds. Try shooting again and the same happens. Google-fu indicates that it could be a due to being a bit of a shit mosfet. Gate themselves say if it happens to contact customer support. I've bought a Gate Nano-ASR instead - so if it goes bad I can just pull it off and replace it with a spare from my kit box and the wiring setup allows for an easy upgrade to a WarFET later.

Thank you good sir, now sorted!

What’s the sizing on a Warq helmet? I’ve been tempted for those reasons, but I have a mahoosive head.

Whilst I agree 100% with what you are saying, I probably fall into the minority. There are many who would see permanently two-toned guns as an absolute show-stopper and would move away from the hobby pretty quickly. They want 'realism', even if that ends at the point of pulling the trigger where their gun sounds like an angry sewing machine. Me? well, I like realistic guns, but could live without them if I had to, I just enjoy shooting people. Whether that's with a perfect copy of a DEVGRU/CAG blaster, or something that looks like it was spat out of Hasbro's factories, makes no odds to me at the end of the day.

Well, that sucks. I hope it's just an admin cock-up on their part and it's sorted quickly.

Well fuck me, it's like Systema PTW's all over again. Not seeing the justification for the cost TBH - a couple bits of wire, a deans connector, a few switches and a tiny electronics board. I suppose if you've dropped nearly £1500 to £1900 on a blaster though, what's another £150...right? 🙄

Thanks. Perhaps I've ended up on some kind of shit-list. I thought I was going mad looking for the button.

Hi @Jedi_Master @proffrink As title. I don't seem to be able to leave feedback for members on here. Used to be able to do it, but I can't find any link/button to do it now. Tried: Disabling Ad-Blocker Multiple Browsers Using the Feedback link in the header: Through the user's feedback page: Am I missing something? I can't find a button or link to leave feedback for the user.

Lasers can also be a real problem if you catch someone through magnified optics.

Thanks for the follow-up. Glad you've got it sorted.

Try the wanted section of the classifieds:

@paradoxum Please tell me that you are not intending to use one of these whilst actually playing?

I don't suppose there any E&C Gearboxes coming into stock soon?

It's actually pretty simple to wire them up. Don't forget heat shrink, you don't want to accidentally short circuit the battery. 16AWG is what I use. Not all wire of a given gauge can be considered equal though.

Almost all Airsoft M4 receivers generally only contain about 4% Aluminium. Most are made from a Zinc alloy called Zamak-4 as it's easy (and cheap) to cast. Specna Edge bodies are very light - the Edge I have is lighter than my plastic-bodied guns of similar size. It implies that they either are thinner and have less material in places for structure, use a lesser grade of casting material, or a combination of both. On their sales blurb they say this: The only steel on the gun will be the body pins, dust cover, screws etc. The receiver, rail, outer barrel and buffer tube are likely to be Zinc Alloy. So to OPs question. Pretty much any Airsoft M4 receiver, unless explicitly stated, will be likely made of the same or similar materials to the Specna although the quality obviously varies between manufacturers. G&P, Guarder and Madbull sell aftermarket receivers, and they will likely be stronger and nicer than the Specna. If you look to vendors in Asia, you can pick up other manufacturers offerings such as King Arms. But if you really want strong and sturdy, then RetroArms produce a receiver milled from a solid block of 7075 Aluminium. It's eye-wateringly expensive, It'll set you back far more than what the gun cost itself and then some. I would just use the stock receiver until it breaks, it's not worth spending 60-70% of the gun's value on replacing the receiver if the original is unbroken. For what It would cost to replace the receiver, you could buy a lower-end Specna Core as a backup gun to keep in your kitbag should your main gun go down.

I use Paintball googles (Empire E-Vents) and Fogtech wipes these days. I don't get much in the way of fogging issues with this setup. Tried everything else, including Rx inserts and Polycarbonate prescription glasses from (the now defunct) Tactical Optician. Unfortunately, after 10 years of contact lenses, I can't use them anymore. Tried nearly every brand of disposables but my eyes just won't take them at all.

Yep, you're right. But I've have always charged at 1C with no ill effects for the last 15 or so years that I've doing RC and Airsoft. I have edited to post slightly though.

Charging currents for your LiPos: 1.4 amps 1.1 amps 1.3 amps This will mean they are charged at or very close to 1C, which is what you want. Charging over 1C of the battery's capacity will reduce it's lifespan and damage the cells. Go mad with the Amps while charging, and you potentially have a fire to deal with. The 'C' Rating in the number of Amps, compared to capacity, that a battery can safely deliver in operation. So for example, a 1000mAh (1000mAh = 1 Amp) Lipo, rated at 20C, can deliver up to 20 Amps of current constantly. So your 1300mAh LiPo at 15c is good for 19.5A (1.3 x 15) constantly while in use. Your 1100mAh at 20 is good for 22A (1.1 x 15) constantly while in use. Many LiPos will give two 'C' numbers, for example 20-40C. The lower number indicates the constant power that can be delivered without harming that battery, the higher number representing the short-duration (~10 seconds) maximum Burst power that the LiPo can safely deliver without significantly degrading the lifespan of the LiPo. All LiPos degrade with use over the years, you are looking at 200-300 charges before replacement is needed. They start to degrade from first use onwards. So to get the best life out of your batteries: Never charge at more than 1C of the battery's capacity. When you get home from playing, always 'Storage Charge' your LiPos. There will be a setting on your charger that will makes sure that the cells on you LiPos are either charged or discharged to around 3.85V. Use the same Amp setting as charging the LiPo. If you have a full battery (4.2V per cell) that you haven't used and you don't storage charge, you might find that it will either degrade quicker (i.e. lose capacity), or eventually 'puff', where the gases created within the LiPo cause it to expand like a balloon. Never let the LiPos over-discharge (below 3.5v per cell), that'll kill them fairly quickly and can also cause puffing as above. Change smaller batteries (below 1500mAh) at least once during a game day, maybe twice if you are heavy on the trigger. Beyond storage charging, make sure you LiPos are stored in a cool place. Heat can kill them too (again, puffing). Some people use an ammo can from a surplus shop with the seal removed, which is OK-ish for smaller batteries. If you can, store well away from your living space (a shed or garage for example). Hope the above helps. Here's a handy video - RC based but identical theory:

If you get stuck, give me a shout.

I got it. Yeh, it's a 5-10 minute job to change the wiring. Do you have a soldering iron? Here's a video on how to do it.

@C-Diddy I’m confused, is the issue that you can’t get the mini tamiya connector through the hole in the stock? edit - I see what the problem is now. I’d solder up new wiring and connector myself, but if in doubt get a tech to do it for you. Edit 2 - found a couple of vids on YouTube. Seems like a 5-10min job if you’ve got a soldering iron. Remove the lower rail from the buffer tube to expose the wires, unscrew the power plate, desolder the existing wires and solder on some new ones with a connector, not forgetting to add some heat shrink over the joins.