SeniorSpaz87

I can get better pics as well

Ok, then I'll skip on the 'fet for now as I only use Nimh. And while on the subject of MOSFETs; this one seems to have some neat functions:http://www.airsoftworld.net/new-2014-burst-wizard-king-kong-super-2-mosfet.html

Ok, thanks. Anywhere online that you know of to get the trigger parts? I'll just get a new one, but thanks for the offer. I was trying to get the motor to start (wasn't working, but it was a hodgepodge setup), and when it all of a sudden started, I nearly hit my head on the roof, as I thought it was dead . Should I look into MOSFETs as well? I'm not sure on them; beyond the little I've read on here I know nothing.but I'm pretty confident right now; as nothing was set on fire (talk about a confidence boost).

Update; A bunch of wires, some DIY, a few sparks, and one heart attack later, I can confirm the motor works. So I guess it's the trigger connector. So... Now the question is where can I get a new one? And TriggerHappy thinks I should add a fuse in there as well. Opinions on this and where to get one as well as the trigger connections?

cant help you there, but one of the gurus (AFUK addicts) will know all about your area. and welcome to the forum

hahaha, I was in the middle of writing a comment stating that polymer is a good plastic and correct myself, but you beat me to it.

they are different. the french one is plastic, the pb one is polymer and metal. the french one is co2, the pb is green gas. dont think the french one is blowback, pb is.

yep; the ts are just so i have some extras on hand. Ill probably leave my p90 and mp40 on mini-t, if they ever need work like my M4 does, then ill switch them over in the process. But if it aint broken, dont fix it.

yea, got a bunch of deans and mini-t male and female ends on the way. ill test the motor when I get home.

Tbh, using a springer as a primary that's not a bolt action is probably a bad idea, but it could bring some laughs as well. Welcome, btw

Haha, I don't actually do that on my bed. I got a table downstairs I've set up as my shop; to the dismay of my mother. I got away with it when I was doing school engineering projects, but until I get a better option, the unused room will be my workplace.

And should I be getting anything else at the same time (multimeter?)?

Aright, I am now in a position to test the motors; and about to get a bill for my jump into electrical (airsoft) engineering. Got a soldering kit already (done quite a bit of that already), as well as solder, a few meters of wires, wire cutters, wire strippers, and more. About to buy a bunch or deans and mini-t connectors, shrink wrap, and more... Anyway, is this an ok (and safe (ish)) setup to bypass the trigger and attempt to activate the motor? I've got my pilot flame-proof gloves at the ready just in case I set my bed sheets on fire... Also, you can see the battery I melted the mini-t connectors on...

Welcome

unfortunatly, no. also, until I get new connectors for my battery, I cant. shouldnt be too long

Nope, just shiny grease

Wires are correct; this worked once upon a time, and I haven moved those wires

Ok, here the area I think y'all asked to see. If it's not, I'll go take more pics.

With dean connectors.

Alright then, so I should buy new batteries?...

alright; im in a rather boring full-day biology revision course right now, but ill be home in an hour or so and do that.

yea. When I got the gun it was wired to deans; thats where I got the deans connector from. I used a spare mini i had to rewire it. so ill just order a new one

Ive opened the gearbox before, and know it well enough. Dont know about multimeters. anyway, I need to get a new battery connector. I actually have a deans connector, but no deans batteries. Should I get deans batteries or just a new mini-Tamiya connector?

in that case, anyone have ny idea about testing trigger connections?