BrightCandle

I really recommend speaking to the guys at the range about guns for fast pistol competition, its their speciality. The do a variety of pre upgraded guns and they will likely be able to tell you the right gun platform to get started with in regards to the current situation with upgrades for consistency. They won't get around the two tone situation but there is a reasonable chance that any rapid targeting shooting place might be UKARA registered anyway so you do the usual 2 months/3 games thing and then buy the gun you want and just rent one for 3 games. But speak to the guys at the range (NW london) they deal in exactly pistols for this purpose.

VFC isn't exactly known for its pistol quality either really. The We will probably strip paint and have a rubbish hop, the TM will be light and plastic and low power but run forever and the VFC could be anything from awesome to utterly flawed. Pick your poison.

The G&P aimpoint replica is about £40 and its OK. Its not going to compete with a £1000 optic but it does the job and its reasonably rugged.

While UKARA isn't required you do need a suitable defence. The laws commencement order does specifically refer to the UKARA scheme actually and it also outlines particular permissable activities. While UKARA isn't required, its not a licence, it is neitherless the easiest way to get a RIF. There are just too many people trying to get around it or looking for ways to skirt the actual law and we should not be encouraging that behaviour at all. Its fairly simple but really you need to be 18 years or old and a legitimate airsofter to own a RIF and that fact isn't going to disappear because some people want it to.

In a recent game one guy in low crouch had a BFG miss his face by 2 inches and explode on the wall right next to him. It was not far from doing some serious damage. He got lucky but those BFGs can be dangerous. The one safety feature we have is that they are pretty short range so we can see where its going and land it accurately. I want long range grenades on the battlefield but I want as much safety as possible to. There are a lot of ways to get hurt in Airsoft, I have two scars already and seeing how annoyed and aggressive people get after getting hit by a BFG I am kind of considering stopping using them altogether because some people came close to blows over their use. I don't know if any site would accept any form of remote pyro like this, even if its not dangerous every marshall around the country has seen the dangers of pyro and the arguments they cause. After this weekend and the level of unacceptable verbal assault around them as well as the multiple near misses it strikes me pyro in a lot of circumstances is just too dangerous.

I am guessing you have a previous generation of this gun since the current ones (gen 3) have a mosfet built in. Might be worth letting us know whether its gen 1 or gen 2 as they both have different quirks. You will want a hardwired mosfet, its the only way to get the resistance down and that trigger snappiness up. A plug and play one will protect the contacts but it wont reduce the resistance and allow the high current flow quickly. As to who can do it....I would call pro airsoft since they are the main importers of G&G guns in the UK. They may very well be willing to do this.

Mine are the Revision Desert Locusts, got them from tactical-kit.co.uk. I saw quite a few reviews of the ESS saying the fans failed frequently so decided I would buy a different model. Expensive but I can see most of the time and see well. On a scale of 1-10 sweatiness I would rate myself a 327 and it still mostly copes. I think I could do with about 50% more airflow especially on the cold days like today but its the best solution I have found and I don't know of anything better. Cheap it certainly is not.

Even the fan doesn't stop the rainout for me. Its significantly better than a basic pair of goggles but I do suffer rainout that blocks vision most games for a while.

So far my experience of CQB hasn't been very good, the woodland has been much better. But I think it really depends on the sites you have near you and what is actually good, I think that matters far more than the type of site. TWA for example has a combination of CQB and woodland and I actually prefer their close in fighting as it depends less on gun accuracy and a bit more on movement. But in the woodland its possible to flank and move around considerably more tactically. Billericay for example is a large site and there is always a way to break through or around the opposing team and I find that sort of game play is a lot more fun than two teams both stuck at a choke point firing at each other with infinite respawns.

I tried Option 2 (goggles + inserts) and it was a disaster. I had some fogging with the goggles before but the inserts were 100% useless. I have tried inserts in the Desert Locusts + fan as well and even there the inserts fog up super quickly even though I got some polycarbonate ones and using anti fog. Simply put goggles fog easily enough as it is, adding another layer of polycartbonate closer to your face dramatically increases the chance of fogging. I just couldn't get this to work for me, I tried twice with two different solutions, it was all an expensive dead end. I now use contact lenses with Desert Locusts, which is an OK solution. I am not super happy with it, I am bothered my vertical visibility (especially down to my gear) and I am bothered by fogging sometimes, but most of the time its better than anything else I have tried with that level of safety.

My Combat machine came out 345 out of the box with a supposedly M100 spring. My G&G T4-18 was 315. People have been reporting a variety of things in and around that range so while its reasonably variable on the guns its below 350 in all cases I have seen. I suspect the original owner swapped out the spring for a M110, you need an M100 or M90 in there instead.

Its a series of different grits (like sandpaper) and things to insert these uniformly into the barrel. Takes a lot of repetitions through the barrel with different grit sizes to gradually smooth it out until its perfect.

7.4V is actually the minimum voltage for a lipo, once a cell gets to 3.2V you have to stop using it or you damage the cell. Lipos actually start at a higher voltage, around 8.4V after charge and then gradually drop to 7.4V, and they sit somewhere around 7.9-8.0 at the 50% mark. So they do feel basically the same as a 8.4V nimh for good reason. They do however provide a lot more current, and in some motors that can pull that current they can dramatically help the motor get going and pull tougher springs. But if the motor isn't helped by the extra current then there isn't really a lot of difference between the nimh and the lipo because its the same voltage. I recently had the unfortunate experience of using a big nimh 8.4V battery on my Tar 21. I had forgotten my battery and got a nimh loaner from the site owners. I didn't notice any difference in motor turn over speed on semi auto from the lipo 7.4V but I did notice a difference on full auto. The full auto was quite a bit slower on the nimh despite the similar voltage and I also had problems on full auto with consistency that isn't there with a lipo. So the current can matter if you have the motor to utilise it, but if you don't then its all about the voltage. I think most motors benefit from more current availability on start but in my experience on that gun its a minor effect.

The motor will almost certainly be fine with a 11.1 V lipo, they are usually designed for 12V or a little more. However the trigger contacts will see arcing with a 11.1V lipo and this will degrade them much faster than with the usual 7.4 or 9.6 V nimh. So while with a 7.4V a mosfet is somewhat optional its definitely not optional on an 11.1V lipo. If you don't want to rewire the gearbox and such you could try an inline mosfet like the burst wizard. But really the best way is to wire in a BTC or other mosfet into the trigger and the external part so that the large voltage doesn't run through the trigger contacts. In addition it would be a good idea to switch to deans connectors for 11.1V to reduce the temperature/resistance of the connectors. Tamiya connectors do get hot when dealing with high voltage and current batteries and its possible to melt them on full auto so its usually best to switch to a low resistance connector as well. There are a few different ways to reduce the firing time depending on the root cause of the slow speed. Some of the problem could for example just be a long trigger pull and reducing that down with a bit of shimming of the trigger could make a pretty big difference. Then it could also just be the motor struggling to turn the gears and pull the spring, a softer spring and some shimming of the gears could help reduce the issue. You could also move towards a torque motor that will have a moderate ROF but get started really easily. Or you could have a lot of electronic resistance and want to rewire your gun and switch to deans. 11.1V is kind of a hammer approach, it will help reduce the problem but it doesn't focus on the core issue causing the slow ramp of the motor, it just pumps more juice at it to get it moving faster without attacking the reason why its slow, but in the process it puts more strain on everything in the guns electronic system.

If a barrel is actually straight then the second most important aspect in its performance is the internal finish. Its not uncommon looking into a barrel to find that its got obvious rings and other artefacts from its manufacturer. Cutting apart a barrel and looking at the insides show they aren't anywhere near as smooth as you might think by looking down them. These rough points, inconsistencies in the barrels internal texture generally cause the BBs to head off in different directions depending on which little edge they hit. So to improve accuracy you can lap the inside of the barrel to improve the consistency and make the barrels internal quality much higher. Its just a way of polishing away the imperfections inherient in the creation of the barrel itself and it can be used to improve stock barrels or less than perfect aftermarket ones.

I got mine done at a local spec savers and it was a about £30. But its important to ask for polycarbonate because it will reduce the fogging. It won't eliminate it and for me the prescription inserts ended up being completely useless due to fogging but the polycarbonate was a little better than the usual plastic they used.

http://www.air-lab.co.uk/products/tools.html They got level 2 and level 4 kits in.

Just be aware you can probably fix the drifting to the side with a reseat of your existing hop rubber. Its most likely not on quite straight, the barrels do have a tendency to shift sometimes and if they have rotated a little the window is slightly off and the rubber is applied in an inconsistent way. A flat nub reduces that tendency as can things like g/r hop rubber setups. The firefly bucking seems contrary to the ideal of having a nice big contact so you get consistent backspin applied with a larger contact patch (since its specifically using two separate contact patches). No idea how well that works in practice but I guess you will find out.

In which case you seemed to have missed the bit that being under 18 you have no defence for purchasing or converting an initiation firearm into a realistic imitation firearm. The whole point of the legislation was to keep realistic looking weapons out of the hands of minors.

Were you arrested for the offence you would be making the argument that after one game you should be considered an airsofter. Relying on UKARA its extremely unlikely to ever get to court, without it its much more likely. Its unlikely you would be arrested for it, but be aware any crimes committed on RIFs are pretty serious and result in many years in jail. I don't personally intrepret the law as 1 game being sufficient, the commencement order gives a good example of sufficient period being 2 months and 3 games as UKARA uses and if you use something less I would expect the CPS to challenge it. I would say if you want to go this route you should consult a lawyer, because I am not a lawyer and I have no idea what the CPS would do with you. Neither less its very unlikely they would catch you, but just keep in mind the penalties can be extremely high for wiping off some paint.

Doesn't say which safety standards its been tested too and without details of the manufacturer and model so you can go look it up there isn't much you can realistically do to determine if it is safe before purchase. Even then testing it to destruction at home doesn't guarantee the second one will achieve the same level of quality. I trust my eyes to standards that ensure I don't have my eyepro breached and IMO everyone should care about that.

I tried mesh and ended up with a fragment in my eye on the first game. Then I tried the Bolle raiders and they fogged badly almost immediately (it was really hot this summer so I was sweating like a terrorist in an airport) and I messed around with inserts and all the recommended anti fog wipes etc. End result was I just couldn't get it to work, search for my name, Bolle Raiders and you'll find a big thread where I go through my trails and tribulations with those darn goggles. The Desert Locusts + fan are mostly OK. I still had some rainout today and I did have to let it clear a few times today but that was mostly my fault for forgetting some kitchen towel which I use to clean the sweat off them with between games. I am also running low on the Desert Locust anti fog solution which so far has been pretty effective when combined with the fan. I actually wish the fan was a bit bigger and more powerful, another 50% air flow would probably solve my issue with fogging completely, but as I have it now its mostly not a problem. I really do recommend the fan goggles they have basically solved the issue for me without any compromise in safety. The level of issue I have is nothing like before, although in a long game (all afternoon today) I did start to have problems at the end.

G&G make gearboxes in both directions and I believe you can just buy them, its more likely to fit coming from the manufacturer. Give proairsoft a call and ask if they can get you one, probably a complete one.

Having tried the Bolle Raiders and tried just about everything to try and stop the rainout I gave up and now use Desert Locust + fan. If there is no airflow its going to fog, these closed goggles just don't work well at all, you need that forced air flow.

I think these gen 3 guns have a lot of problems frankly. The Rate of fire on my T4-18 is pretty rubbish, as is the shim job and I too have wax/glue in the motor screw making it all but impossible to remove the motor, and the height sounds wrong to me. I know people have said G&G guns are good but there are just too many of us with these latest guns having obvious problems, there is a serious quality control issue with these new guns. My ROF is about 14 RPS, which is a little higher than the combat machine which did 13.5. This as far as I can tell is about normal for G&G guns.