Mr Monkey Nuts

Power playing is Rambo style, aggressively running into a room to get just a few guys knowing full well you will get hit then re spawning and doing it again until everyone is dead. Trojan run mostly "attack and defend" where defenders only have one life and attackers have unlimited re spawn, so if everyone just kamikazes the defenders it gets very tedious, very quickly. The rule promotes good teamwork, and tactics over outright bombardment.

I like the way Halo Mill do their briefs, you get a quick 1on1 brief when you sign on before you even open your kit, You get this every time unless you become a member, in which case you sign up to the rules and are obliged to abide by them. It works well because the marshals are brilliant and there is rarely more than 20 in at any one time. At other sites, I often find the ones at the back not listening are the ones that "twist the rules" so to speak.

Tacco style would be my shout, http://www.uktactical.com/p-10553-warrior-single-quick-mag-coyote-tan.aspx TMC also do a knock off for about £10 a pouch I think.

or not, as others have so eloquently put it, no one cares.

I have been using a similar duty belt / civi defence style setup (although not as gucci as yours) for a few games and its incredibly refreshing to be light and nimble again. I have also been using a Tactical Tailor Molle belt, its got a lot slimmer padding than most batlle belts, and is only two rows of molle, so gives a little better retention and spreads the weigh of the gas mags a little better,while remaining light and unobtrusive. Having said that I do prefer the standard lightweight rigid police belt.

Ok, that makes sence. So what about wire 5 in figure 3 is it just not required? It says it should terminate as close to the battery as possible but inst drawn onto the diagram.

I'm in the process of building a V2 gearbox and getting to the wiring. I have a GATE PicoSSR2 Mosfet to put in her, but the instructions list two different installation methods. This is taken directly from the Rules I understand the concept of both, what I don't understand is why figure 3 is the optimum setup? And why it doesn't require a "wire 5"? It will be running a 11.1 25c, down 16awg and deans, rear-wired. if that helps?

[Caveat] I don't know your background so I apologise if this is patronising or teaching you to suck eggs, I may have got carried away writing it, it’s all my personally opinion, take it or leave it, I’m not telling you how to run your business, just offering my viewpoint from my experiences. If you want to know anymore or clarify anything feel free to PM me. My background is primarily Online retail, attached to a Brick store in a relatively Niche market. I started at a back street business with 3 paid staff (warehouse, admin and myself) and set the products, stock structure, purchasing and direction for the site, we grew exponentially during my time there and they are now a market leader, with multi million pound turnovers. I left for a more Holistic Career after the CEO bought his first sports car. I would concentrate on firstly re branding if you are taking over a failing store, try to cut any old ties and negative associations, even if it’s just a customer facing name or store front change, colour scheme etc. Shake the old stigma for local players, local is where you will need to make the bulk of your start up money to invest into online. Winning the online retail game is significantly harder than anyone can imagine, even those at the top of the game have to constantly re evaluate and evolve to meet demand and keep customers. You can't just build a website, fill it with toys and update it every six months and expect a good turn over and happy customers. Having a 3rd party build a good looking customer orientated website is relatively cheap, having a 3rd party build a SEO maximised site is more costly and having a website that is SEO maximised and friendly to a customer is the holy grail, but comes with holy grail costs. To get to the first page of Google you need to be spending ££££ on SEO. If you are going to be happy to retain the 4th page of Google, you may as well not even bother, and invest the money in a different angle, such as local sponsorship and advertising. With a website it’s not an instant cash cow either, it will take a few years of being in the red, before you will break even and then a few more years before you start to make a profit from it, and that's only if you can fill it with relevant and available stock. As chock already said, the primary aim of a site is to sell, so when an order does come in get it out of the bloody door!, I have seen so many businesses sit on orders before despatching. Get it packed and gone, use a reliable courier and keep costs down. Free postage on orders over £40 would be great, but your margins will dictate what you can offer. Stock is a huge bugbear of mine and many others; the problem in airsoft particularly is twofold. First stock costs money, to have lots of stock needs a lot of capital to invest, and as I understand it margins are pretty slim from most of the big suppliers, and consignment stock is almost nonexistent any more. Consignment stock was what killed Woollies and Zavvi. The second issue is airsoft stock and suppliers are very dynamic, what is available now may not be available in 6 months, and may not ever be available again, in a relatively short time frame. For a brick shop that's not an issue, you can only sell what you have in front of you. For online, if you are advertising something you don't have or can't get you will lose a customer. That's why it’s important that a website is maintained and you are able to hide any unavailable stock from the customer front, something many don't do, yes it will make the site look bare, but it preferable to a page of unavailable products imo. Finally you need to choose a direction. As cheese has already hit on Big Ticket items are where the profit is and gives a boost to turnover figures, which may lead to better external investment. But not many customers want to buy £400-£500 each day. Alternatively you can concentrate on lower value products but higher profit products, a la the BBG websites. (Probably not a good direction to choose) The mid ground plays a much bigger role in airsoft than it does in many other niche markets, your G&G, ICS and Cymas ect, so they can be a good compromise of both ends of the spectrum. If I was in your position today, I would scrap the unique web store, and make it a director or holder for your brick shop. I would be opening an Ebay Storefront or Amazon Marketplace and selling parts and accessories via that, it takes a hit on the margins as Amazon takes a cut, but is significantly cheaper than competing against them, and much easier to control stock levels. With the brick shop, I would fill it with a modest selection of guns from all ranges and brands I could afford to, and accessories, from both suppliers and that you have imported yourself with AliExpress type middle men. I would also be looking to set up a deal with my local surplus store to get some camo and kit in at trade prices. Many seem to buy it at retail from the surplus and then add a fiver onto the ticket. I would be keeping the store open, light and airy, none intimidating and friendly, lots of white and calming colours, not dark and dingy. Lots of kids play airsoft, lots of parents come with kids to airsoft shops, and if it’s dark, musty and seedy they are going to be put off the whole concept. On the same thread, keep guns out of the window, it is intimidating to the public. Two key and very important phrases for business: Walk before you can run and KISS.

+1 to what Mr Cheese said. Bursts of current are quite harsh on any battery, they do have a finite life and it sounds like yours are starting to show it, they are still far from useless though, just swap them more often. Smart chargers at this point may not help a lot, they can extend the life of a battery by optimising its charge, but they cant repair already tired batteries. (Some car/motorbike chargers can but not for airsoft batteries)

Of course we are assuming a CO2 capsule is good for more than 80 shots,. They may have picked 80 as that's the amount of usable gas. how many shots does a DW get to a capsule? These have them in stock and state uses a standard AEG barrel.

The amount of propane that gets released is barely enough to ignite once it hits atmosphere, and there is nothing in the gun likely to be hot enough to cause ignition inside the barrel. in short, Propane is a very flamable gas as it's atmospheric volume will expand to 240 times it liquid volume. Its also fairly safe as in open air the gas can dissipate quite quickly. It becomes quite hazardous when you enclose or prevent the gas from dissipating into the air, which we don't do. I honestly don't know the volume of a Gas Mag, but its not a huge amount when you look at the reservoirs, (It takes <1 second to vent my whole m4 mag), combined with the valve only releasing a tiny amount at a time, the amount of gas you are releasing at any one time is minimal. I did an experiment of lighting my propane once, it was very unspectacular.

The standard O Ring on my JG BAR is (lets just say) poor, It leaks and has very little compression, despite a fairly consistent and decent FPS. The piston itself is ok and I have no reason to put an alloy one in, its simply just a bad sized O Ring. 'Murica says #14 is best for compression, but causes resistance, slowing the cylinder head, while #13 doesn't seal as tightly, but returns better travel. However it would appear the standardised sized don't translate to the UK very well. So what size do I need and where can I get some? ASPUK dont list them and i cant find anywhere that does. Now I'm beginning to think they may just be standard AEG sized?

7/10 bad bolt action rifles are caused by poorly zerod sights, the other three are broken Sears, unlubed bolt and poor compression. Plastic spring guide, piston and standard triggers really are not as bad as the hype would make them out to be. The VSR hop up is Pretty good as standard, the only upgrade you may need is a good quality TBB and a decent hop up suited to the fps and weight of bb your shooting. Go into sniping with your own mind, there is a lot of 3rd hand unfounded tosh spoken about them.

Most of my current sites play fairly quick attack and defend games where range accuracy and tactics are more valuable than concealment, however A few min with a shemagh and ... I need to leave a little of the left hand side exposed so not to jam up the bolt, but a few well placed cable ties cover most of the glint, you will only see it if your coming from the side where you will probably already have the drop on me. I tried to strip and polish the barrel on my m4, until I realised it was hard anodised, gave up and painted it. Plus I can't justify spending any money on a polishing wheel this close to Christmas. It would look very nice properly cut back and mirror finished. I did consider getting it pseudo chrome plated at my local car tarter upper, but for the price of the tape I think it's a reasonable compromise.

My Rifle is having a bit of an identity crisis, inspired by the TM Pro Hunter, And maybe a little from the new Jurassic World trailer It started all black, then became a bit camo'd And today has transformed to ... I stripped all the Camo tape off the scope and sprayed it with some Plastikote Brilliant Metallic chrome effect paint. Its not chrome at all, its very flat, but still retains a metallic look. Unfortunately you cant lacquer it as it turns the paint a dull grey akin to primer. The barrel and receiver of the gun was blinged up with some Aluminium tape. Its used by builders who need alloy tape for stuff. It only cost £5 for 10m and is pretty good. I got the idea from watching a Tested Video on Youtube, apparently Hollywood prop makers use it to make chrome things. A quick bit of brasso and it can polish up quite shiny, or a quick once over with wire wool gives it a matt stainless steel look. Its just like tin foil, but thicker and sticky backed. just lay it in an smooth it out. It does wrinkle if not careful and my first attempt Its not perfect when you get close up, but it is non permanent and just peels off. I'm working on a velcro veil made of a shemagh and scrim to cover it up for when i do want to play stealthily. What do you think, I like it, but i'm not sure i'm going to keep it forever.

No body is telling him anything, we are offering advice and personal opinion, he is free to listen or disregard them at his choice. No amount of armor or padding or protection will prevent bbs from hitting vulnerable spots and being painful. You can not escape from the fact that he will get hit and will sting a little. It's the whole basis of the sport. If you don't what your child to be exposed to it then airsoft may not be the game of choice. As an adult and I hope many other are with me, I try very hard not to dominate younger players, especially as young as 13, but it's not easy and often leads to my own demise. unfortunately there are many 'yoofs (read: under 18s) but also adults who don't take it easy on kids and will open up a hi cap onto them without a second thought. Padding won't protect him, either train him up to deal with it or wait a few years till he can cope. Just my opinion, take it or leave it.

What Two Zero said.

No yours is correct for when the hammer is not cocked, it can't fire and simulates the bolt being locked back. When you cock the hammer, it should line up like the one I pictured.

That's with the hammer not cocked, when it's cocked it draws the striker back. It's should look like this If you remove the bolt half from the upper reciever and place it on top of the trigger half with the mag in, does it form a very close fit and does the gas route fit into the magazine fully? The two halves should mate perfectly and There should be less than 1 mm clearance near the magazine. Failing that, it's going to be a full strip, clean and re lube of the cylinder and bolt assembly. If it is dirty and giving a bit of extra resistance it could be slowing the action down enough to just dump all gas. As it relies on the bolt fully cycling to re cock the hammer and draw the striker back. If it doesn't re cock the trigger it leaves the striker foreward engaging the valve.

When you cock the hammer the pin come back and sits perfectly over the valve? Although I still think this sounds like a gas issue, have you tried it with a different can of gas and with warm (room temp) mags and gas?

Im slightly concerned that as an engineer you are stumped by this .. it is the middle part of the three piece G&G barrel., it fits to the gun / rail end via a grub screw or two, extends out and the end piece with the sight post and flash hider sits on the end of this with another couple of grub screws. if you want it longer just find another piece of tube with the same outer diameter and cut it to the length you want, although if you are still going to use the original rail it will look bad. You would be better buying a new 15 inch Chinese barrel from ebay. If you are attaching Delta Rings and a hand guard you may get away with it.

Is the rubber O ring still in place on the round silver metal gas inlet on the top half of the box? And is the hop up unit pushed all the way forward into the receiver, it's a very tight fit to get them to align properly and seal up. With these if you push the mag too high or pull the mag slightly back, it can prematurely trigger the valve, if you look at a g5 mag the valve is recessed for this reason. So if you have to push it to line up, then I would assume the main hardware isn't in place properly. Could you take the top reciever off and take a top down picture with the magazine in place so I can see how it's sitting?

Is the rubber O ring still in place on the round silver metal gas inlet on the top half of the box? And is the hop up unit pushed all the way forward into the receiver, it's a very tight fit to get them to align properly and seal up. With these if you push the mag too high or pull the mag slightly back, it can prematurely trigger the valve, if you look at a g5 mag the valve is recessed for this reason. So if you have to push it to line up, then I would assume the main hardware isn't in place properly. Could you take the top reciever off and take a top down picture with the magazine in place so I can see how it's sitting?

You may want to check the mag is not leaking either full it up and listen if it still hisses after you stop filling, it's leaking.