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-davo-

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Posts posted by -davo-

  1. If you're looking for experiences, then it might be a good shout to check out the Recommend a Tech threads

     

    Otherwise, I would say it depends on your gun, what you want from it, your budget and how long you wanna wait
    The more experienced/popular techs will no doubt have the longest waiting times and higher cost per hour charge.

    If it's for your ICS then Fire-support are the UK ICS specialists and tend to have all the little obscure parts for them
    - their site says "Labour fee is calculated on a job to job basis, but a service is approximately 30-40."
    I used them briefly when I bought my ICS Mp5 on release and had a motor issue. They were pretty quick, with fast/friendly comms and sorted the issue - no problems
     

    People will have their go-to techs for things like HPA, GBBR, Tokyo Marui as those particular places will have a name for doing (hopefully) great work with them

    You should look to get anything minor like general shimming, changing a hop, changing/upgrading a piston done whilst booked for a service to get better value for your money/time
    Shimming and the mere installation of parts like that are generally included in that pricing, just not the actual cost of the parts supplied by the tech, (as you'd expect)

    Most techs will allow you to provide parts yourself, but will not offer any guarentee on any parts they did not advise/supply

    So Service+Parts+Return Postage is usually the general "quote".

    -IF- they offer a flat charge for a Service, then average is usually between £30-50 - depending on what they deem is part of that service.
    some have different versions with different prices like "basic service" or "full service"

    If they don't offer a flat charge for a "Service", then yeah it's whatever their hourly rate is and how long it takes them

  2. Best bet is probably an M90 spring

    AK2M4 is currently out of stock on any m90's

    I usually use these (select m90)
    https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/rocket-airsoft-aeg-spring-m90-m100-m110-m120-m130-m140-38644-p.asp
    Shipping is a bit of an oof though (£6.99)

    I generally get around the 300-320 mark with these, testing on .25g blaster devils, (dependant on*),
    so are generally a good shout, especially if you got anything in your gun boosting fps,
    e.g *Hop unit/rubber/barrel

     

  3. On 16/08/2023 at 22:10, Haru said:

     ive found that the ICS stickers are more compatible the with cyma platinum gearboxes


    Can confirm.
    Last time i put a perun in an mp5 (cyma gearbox), i found the ICS stickers to be the key
    Mp5 are a little more finnicky with testing for the perun

    I would suggest assembling the gearbox in the lower, with only the trigger, sector gear and mosfet in the shell
    (as per Perun's own advice) > manual

    From there, connect the battery with the gun on safe and the mosfet should go into "debug/test" mode.
    Go through your fire selections.

    Flashing yellow means motor disconnected (which, yes, it should be for this part)
    white- safe
    blue - semi
    red - auto
    purple - trigger pull detected
    green - sector gear movement detected

    from there you should be able to tell if the sensor sticker is properly aligned
    if it is, then great, put all the other bits back in and fully reassemble

  4. Since you've said in another post that this was a new purchase, from a retailer (patrolbase), and it shot 300 bbs before it fried
    - then I would send it back for repair/replacement (as stated by CrackCommandoUnit1972

    Then: just use the gun until it needs upgrading
    Cyma plats tend to already have upgraded gearbox internals and motor, so you're good there.

    Otherwise, pretty much what Leo said

    Until the mosfet dies, wouldn't bother replacing
    Until the hop rubber shows signs of wear, (usually after a few thousand rounds), wouldn't bother replacing
    You could upgrade the barrel, but, if it's firing fine - leave it

    Mosfet wise, with the perun:
    You might have to modify the gearbox shell slightly for it to fit in properly
    mostly just means filing down/removing a "post" or sometimes the cut-off screw hole.
    If this is the case, then you'll need to clean out your gearbox shell afterwards and reapply any necessary greases
    - cracking open the gearbox voids warranty

    Start by contacting Patrolbase, tell them the problem with the gun, they'll either try diagnosing/fixing the issue remotely, or request you sent it them for repair

    Then, if the gun works, leave it be
    (so long as you havent opened anything, you can send the items you bought back for full refund, though maybe keep the silicon oil for general maintenance).

  5. in my experience
    stock specnas will happily run about 260-280 fps with no issue, they wont be amazing, but they will run

    specna are one of those brands that can do nice externals, but their gearbox work leaves much to be desired
    would expect what little air seal it had, has now gone completely
    likely needs cracking open and servicing
    (although if you still have flyers, then it might just be hop-side related)

    i would also advise against using the ML omega nub with that rubber. their nubs are very hard, and can cause issues with feeding
    the gearparts(XT) omega style nub works better, as is softer than ML's
    (prob go with this one; XT Omega Nub Soft 70)

    I initially suspected it was merely issues with the ML omega nub, but you mentioned you swapped it back to stock and still having the problems.

    Service it yourself if you're confident to do so (swap out the ML omega nub), or drop it in to a tech
    ///

  6. If it is indeed a gun with the ARES EFCS
    that's usually because it's not reading the magnet in the sector gear
    so it shuts down for "safety"

    need to open gun and check what's up
    could be as simple as realign the sector gear
    or replace

    or at worst, mosfet needs replacing cos it's gone doowally

  7. "Purple Airsoft" Tech Services
    "P.A.T test your Pew"

    Services, Repairs, Upgrades and Modifications
    Primarily work on; AEG, AEP, GBB pistols and Bolt-action Sniper Rifles

    However, if you're unsure, can't hurt to > ask <
     

    > Website < (site switching in progress, temporary domain in use)
    > Youtube <
    > Facebook <

     

    Current turn around time: ~1-2 Weeks

     

    For more pricing and more info,
    please see the website


    Fancy a cheeky 20% discount on your first service?
    quote "AFUK20" when contacting 👀
     

    Cheers,

    ///Davo

     

  8. This depends on a few things;
    Did they test the gun at all?
    - If so, did they test it with YOUR battery/mags? or equivalent to what you'd be using?

    Did they charge you for the do-over(s)?
    - I would allow some leniency of error, but the fact it was a complete dud? after 2 attempts of sorting it? 
    nah
     

    If they've agreed to sort it for free, (maybe a small good-will refund to cover travel expenses?), to clear their name?
    Sure.

    However, at a certain point, it becomes evident that -just maybe- they don't know what they're doing

    Maybe they're just not good at DMR builds?

  9. 1 hour ago, rj1986 said:

    I'm confused about how he got to that figure.

     

    Rif: £600

    E6 upgrades: £900 if you tick every option including ones not mentioned on the ad.

    Vortex: £250 + £300

     

    So £800 for a tracer, mags and unknown brand PC...

    TM mags are annoyingly proprietary
    so £25 for each mag (x9) - £175
    Tracer - between £40-£140, depending on brand or whatever

    Let's just say top end, cause TM recoil, can't cheap out now after all that, can you?

    Chest rig? - can get a decent one for ~£50, but some can run £100+
    HOWEVER!!

    That one has a DEVGRU patch.

    Gotta make sure everyone knows
    So that EAAASILY makes up the rest

    [Realistically, he should be looking at the £1200 - 1500 range. That's generally what upgraded TM recoils go for. But upgrades don't mean shit, most of that is labour charge]

    Deffo another case of "Oh shit, I paid WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too much for a toy pew pew pretend gun, totally means I can get all that back WITH PROFIT right?"

  10. In general, this would be a cut off lever problem
    if the cut off lever is worn, or just not doing it's job, then it would cause the gun to have problems firing semi-auto

    the lancer/specna combo is a bold choice
    not sure why it would have high speed gears - these could be spinning too fast for the cut off to activate? {{or could the sector be shimmed too high to grab the cut off to trip it?}}
    You mentioned the gun has a microswitch trigger - does that mean it also has a mosfet system? ---> does this have any active brake / precocking settings you can add/change?

    perhaps the nozzle is too big? - is the nozzle from the specna gb, the same as what was in the lancer's? (down to the decimal mm?, so if it was 22.4mm, is the other also 22.4?)

     

    If you have the confidence/experience to crack open the gearbox, then do so, as you'll need to manually cycle the sector gear to make sure it's tripping the cut off
    may be some trial and error needed, or perhaps a new cut off needed (if applicable)

    ///

  11. On 30/08/2022 at 12:08, Rogerborg said:

    I'd note that the best thing you can do with those AEPs is to switch to using a 7.4v76 lipo battery, either by wiring in a new connector, or by using an aftermarket battery like this one:

     

    https://www.airsoftworld.net/world-exclusive-lithium-polymer-aep-battery-li-po-lipo-7-4v-550mah.html

    ^^^
    tl;dr
    i agree


    I got this for the one i got (it says ASG but it's the same gun as the cyma)
    - had to file down the end a little bit for it to fit a little nicer

    This was after buying a brand new aep nimh battery and it dying pretty much instantly (friend has same nimh battery, same make etc, and it worked, so guess i got a dud)

    The li-po one charges with your standard lipo smart chargers, which tend to have nice obvious led charge lights to let you know as well 
    - with the added bonus that you can plug it into a battery tester too

    wiring in a normal battery connector is pretty easy too, so is an option, 
    but would prob suggest the lipo

  12. "If it beeps once per second, then it means low voltage. If it beeps continuously, then it means the motor couldn't pull the spring, either the GB is jammed, or the motor isn't strong enough. If it beeps twice a second, then it means the sector gear is at the wrong position."

    So possibly battery isn't charged enough for it's liking

    Check your battery is fully charged, and/or use a battery checker on the one you tried this with to make sure the battery isn't on it's way out

  13. If it's the part I think you're on about, it screws in with a tiny ass screw - very losable
    That part of the gun is generally only aesthetic anyways
    On other guns, that's how you get to the hop wheel
    but with CYMA/TM it's underneath next to the magwell

    So it's just for show
    You could probably source replacement parts if needed

  14. 46 minutes ago, EDcase said:

    You know the hop works with friction right?

    Its good to make sure the rubber hasn't dried out and become brittle/cracked but the inside should NOT have any 'lube' when in use.

     

     

    Correct
    Friction creates heat
    Heat vs Rubber = Breakages

    Am I saying bathe that shit in silicon spray? You could, but no, not really
    Would that still be better than none at all? Yes

    Any excess will be jettisoned after the first few rounds

    Personally, after 10 years of storage, it would probably be best to just outright replace the hop rubbers, but keeping re-start-up costs low for now....
    a can of silicon spray is likely cheaper than x-amount of hop rubbers

  15. ^^^^
    clean and relube your barrel/hop/hop rubbers as well

    Any batteries you had are probably naffed
    unless you have a battery tester to verify, may be best to buy new batteries for any you plan to use
    Any mags left with bbs in, likely need new springs (only if left under tension)
    Would probably not use any old bbs either

    Otherwise, if it's been stored in a "cool, dry place", and in cases and such, I can't imagine you'll need to do much else

    tl;dr
    give em a service

  16. If you have spare cylinder(s) or spare sector(s), i'd try if different ones have the same issue (in different combos with stock sector, and stock cylinder)

    Possibly just badly machined from factory? (cylinder port looks a bit scraggly on photo) 
    It's Double Bell, so makes sense 

     

    Sounds liike a new one to me too, but you solved it yourself with a little mod
    So, nice, good job

  17. 26 minutes ago, RostokMcSpoons said:

    I have to say I don't fancy the little parts pinging around, once I'm done with the hop and the barrel I'm leaving everything else alone so it can be a reliable back-up / occasional use gun!

    Sounds like a good plan
    "If I ain't broke...." and all that

    If you do decide you wanna do any internal upgrades/servicing at some point, give me a shout
    Will float the offer of doing it for you, if you like, I'd be much cheaper/quicker (turnaround) than the usual go-to's, aha

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