ak2m4

@MrTea what's the inner barrel length, is it 6.12mm? what's cylinder type is it?

M160 are arriving in a few months however what's going on with that build? Never worked on a Masada personally but why so low power ?

checkout Tactical Geordies, he's often spoken about NGRS and brushless. Also there's a dedicated group on FB

Da comrade.. 🙂

Have you tried the vfc Colin? Interested to know what you think of it.

I think for ak there's a vfc plastic rotary that's really good if you can find one, only about £15. Maybe some AK owners can confirm this

I'm also going to be stocking spares etc, so bearings, esc etc al. All going to be pretty cheap should anything be damaged. The major ass is the time it takes to desolder the controller to access all the parts

From what you're saying you have a MR, that's the recommended bucking and the one I use to test. However your hop chamber might prefer the Macaron version which uses a slightly smaller contact patch, it's all about trying different things. it's worth just trimming the feet of the red nub a little or try the MR bucking with the stock nub. With the inner barrel and hop chamber outside of the gun apply the hop and look down into the barrel and see what the contact patch is doing, should give you an idea

@Pseudotectonic thanks, I'll mention the ms delay thing to the factory and see what they say.

Chatting with the factory for the next batch, what's the ideal speed that people want to see? I was thinking around 23,000 rpm +/- 10% Factory did say they can fit a speed controller dial but I'm not really convinced as it could increase the price more.

Perhaps your aeg just doesn't like maple leaf bucking, barrel and chamber combination. Also did you say your using a Macaron? The XT barrel does work best with MR due to the larger window size. As always your welcome to return any parts for a refund. Did you get a chance to try the Macaron with an official nub?

the newer ones all factory mold. I do check each before sending out but worth double-checking. trimming the edges might help with you since it will reduce the height a tad, it's such a tiny amount though. try a maple leaf one though and let us know if that makes any difference

Rubbers will break-in over time, you generally end up applying a little more hop to compensate. Not every hop chamber is the same so it takes a little playing around with. It sounds to me like the nub is perhaps a little too large (tall) for your hop chamber, although impossible for me to tell without it in front of me. You might try trimming a little of material off the top of the nub to reduce some of it's height. Also as a test try a standard nub if you have one there.

@Fatboy40 haha I've never actually tried cutting one. Out of interest what spring power do you have and what you trying to get it down to?

Before you do anything you should take yours apart and fully examine how it works. Look at what the outer barrel head (the part that fits into the upper receiver) looks like and above all measure the lengths you need. You said you can't measure the outer barrel, even though it's broken? Surely you can just measure the 2 halves?

Hi, lot of old farts here so you're in good company 🙂

@metaljoelmole229 thanks man, much appreciated 🙂 So is this the order of events then, just for clarity as it often gets a little confusing to some (well me especially lol) : From stock changed to 13:1, 22TPA, ZCI Rotary and MR 60 - FPS dropped to 260 (Can you confirm what BB weight and the FPS before you changed the parts?) Refitted stock inner barrel, hop chamber and hop rubber - FPS now 230 The nozzle is the kit is 21.4mm btw.. Seems you're going backwards 🙂 Whenever I hit "weird" issues like this I prefer to take everything back to stock, including the old trigger system, gears etc. Once back to stock, chrono and then introduce each new part one by one. I know it's a ballache of highest order. One thing that can introduce weird FPS loss, worth checking. Sometimes an inner barrel can move forward slightly inside the hop chamber if the retaining clip isn't attached properly, thus resulting in 100fps or so loss.

worth listing exactly what changes you made from the stock. also measure your current and/or stock nozzle.

Make Airsoft Great Again

Hi The IFRIT is a fairly decent motor so defaintely worth trying that out. Most popular motor I sell is the XT 22TPA, then it's the SHS HT - from what I can tell they've reduced the speed by 15% making it more torquetastic which is a good thing. Battery wise is always a little more complicated. It's so hard to tell you exactly what to buy because there's so many variables involved. It's about experimenting little to see what works best.

@Fatboy40 did the XT brushless not like the Falcon? Let me know and I'll add a note on the description page.

yes sorry, that's what I meant. also could have been someone used some non-silicone grease and it's degraded the rubber on the pad, even with no load on the spring will create a nice pretty pattern on the pad 🙂

Looks to me like the aeg was left for a few weeks / months with the spring in a fully compressed state - imprinting onto the cylinder head pad.

there's a few video's on YT which explain how to check the compression. Those parts look ok. The cylinder head pad has taken a little beating but should still working ok. Also check your bucking and hop chamber.

Yep, and makes sense due to the high tooling costs. A few years ago I wanted a Chinese motor factory to make me a motor similar to the Taiwanese / ASG versions that were out. This required all new tooling etc and I was quoted around $100,000. In regards to the Paragon motor, I didn't even think about startup speed or parallel winding (again whatever that may be). I did however think about the motor shaft thickness and CNC pinion gear (samples are on their way now) For EZO bearings these I decided against as it would have added an extra £10 onto the price and the ones I use are high grade and seem fine so far. One thing Michael from Paragon did pick up on was that the T238 was quite a bit shorter and did say it caused some issues on some builds, hence why there's is longer.