ak2m4

the cyma platinum range is decent for the £220 I paid when they came out a couple of years ago, but that price is quite a jump (licensing??) so it's worth seeing what others say. I believe they still come with a short-stroked gearset, something to bear in mind if you have to change the spring.

my hosting company were switching some sort of cache on the plesk system apparently.

oh wow, someone with a lot of forum activity! that sucks. Royal Mail counters are generally hot on people providing proof of identity when picking up packages.

Haha, yes I'm well versed in this, learnt the hard way...Just some tips here: - Always use the RM service that covers the value. Tracked 24 is £150, Signed For £50, Normal 1st/2nd £20 - If you can use their new Tracked 24/48 service as it's given priority and only a few pence more. Signed For is an old product. Tracked 24 will let you know which depot its been to etc. - Never refund unless the 10 business days are up (or it's a low value etc) - worth explaining to the buyer that's their policy before agreeing sale. - Take photo of contents and package before shipping - In the event of a claim always keep all correspondence and proof of the value of the item (this can be hard.) - Order online via RM website and they'll pickup for free and provide label if needed.

How low is low? If it's under a tenner and been a week then I'd just refund, if more then I'd wait till the specified EVRI delivery time was up. Not got a glue what this is but Royal Mail is 10 working days. I'd say 1 in every 200 packages I send goes missing only to turn up on the 10th day.

you ain't the first to think a mold line is a crackola 🙂 I've done it plenty of times

that looks like a mold line to me

this bit just to the left of the button? am I looking in the right spot

@JinxDuh where's the crack exactly?

Jurassic Army. Look at the size of the vent holes in the piston head. Length of the cylinder head shaft looks quite long as well. Looks all nice and clean, cheap to fix up and run

@Pollynator_bravo2 clean that inner barrel and wash that rubber

mmmmmmmm copypasta

get some heat on the motor grip plate, that should dislodge the screw. I'm guessing they're 7mm

POM material super nice for tappet plates and only slightly more expensive if using a mold

Already ahead of you, I just didn't want to take the conversation away from the wheel issue. I'm also looking at making a new POM rotary with slightly better tolerances You're welcome

Great chatting to you, glad you got the gearbox apart.

The wheel on the ZCI rotary isn't the greatest design, so much so I'm looking to get my own one molded that's a little smaller and with better notches so you can at least count the turns etc. As for your problem maybe take the upper off, turn upside-down, fit the rotary and barrel and try to see where the wheel is rubbing. A customer did mention this before I remember and it was the gearbox case.

The general go-to gears are SHS, in your case 18:1's... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/shs-18-gearset As for the delayer, you can try one I suppose but when you have the gearbox open just check all the compression parts, give everything a good clean and re-grease with some gear and compression lube. As for consistency so many things can affect it, barrel, hop chamber, bucking, nub, nozzle, spring etc. Best to get the gearbox working nicely with the new gears and then go from there. Oh forgot to say, when you have the gearbox open and the new gears fitted it's always best to manually operate the gears with your fingers, this will give you a good idea of how the parts are working together and will show any issues. Be sure to post up pics or video here if you get stuck.

I would get hold of a cheap non-ICS hop chamber and modify that to work. I remember this problem from a few years back, can't remember the model of the AEG or if something like the ZCI plastic worked or not. There's a ICS group on FB, you might find the answer there.

Also make sure you have some silicone grease for the orings as well... I sell a little kit but you use anything that's suitable for orings. You want the fitment on the nozzle to be tight but not overly tight where it restricts movement. Same with the oring on the piston head, needs to seal but not be too tight.

I mention MR since I do all my testing on them and the hop window on the XT inner barrel is enlarged for the larger patch of the MR. It really doesn't matter too much, both will work.

Go with this one: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/maple-leaf-mr-60-nub

@Yashy you need to make sure it is a 363mm defaintely that you need. I can't tell you this for sure, I'm only going on the link you provided above. So before you order it's work taking the inner barrel out and just measuring it to be sure. You have to take it apart anyway so worth doing now.

That SA AEG uses a 363mm inner barrel which I don't have any left in stock, maybe a few arriving on Monday. Factory is currently working on the 6.03mm samples right now so they're kinda pushed.

Give us some fps stats, also have you changed anything (I can see a spring in the video), is it all stock etc etc etc.