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Rubbers will break-in over time, you generally end up applying a little more hop to compensate. Not every hop chamber is the same so it takes a little playing around with. It sounds to me like the nub is perhaps a little too large (tall) for your hop chamber, although impossible for me to tell without it in front of me. You might try trimming a little of material off the top of the nub to reduce some of it's height. Also as a test try a standard nub if you have one there.

@Fatboy40 haha I've never actually tried cutting one. Out of interest what spring power do you have and what you trying to get it down to?

Before you do anything you should take yours apart and fully examine how it works. Look at what the outer barrel head (the part that fits into the upper receiver) looks like and above all measure the lengths you need. You said you can't measure the outer barrel, even though it's broken? Surely you can just measure the 2 halves?

Hi, lot of old farts here so you're in good company 🙂

@metaljoelmole229 thanks man, much appreciated 🙂 So is this the order of events then, just for clarity as it often gets a little confusing to some (well me especially lol) : From stock changed to 13:1, 22TPA, ZCI Rotary and MR 60 - FPS dropped to 260 (Can you confirm what BB weight and the FPS before you changed the parts?) Refitted stock inner barrel, hop chamber and hop rubber - FPS now 230 The nozzle is the kit is 21.4mm btw.. Seems you're going backwards 🙂 Whenever I hit "weird" issues like this I prefer to take everything back to stock, including the old trigger system, gears etc. Once back to stock, chrono and then introduce each new part one by one. I know it's a ballache of highest order. One thing that can introduce weird FPS loss, worth checking. Sometimes an inner barrel can move forward slightly inside the hop chamber if the retaining clip isn't attached properly, thus resulting in 100fps or so loss.

worth listing exactly what changes you made from the stock. also measure your current and/or stock nozzle.

Make Airsoft Great Again

Hi The IFRIT is a fairly decent motor so defaintely worth trying that out. Most popular motor I sell is the XT 22TPA, then it's the SHS HT - from what I can tell they've reduced the speed by 15% making it more torquetastic which is a good thing. Battery wise is always a little more complicated. It's so hard to tell you exactly what to buy because there's so many variables involved. It's about experimenting little to see what works best.

@Fatboy40 did the XT brushless not like the Falcon? Let me know and I'll add a note on the description page.

yes sorry, that's what I meant. also could have been someone used some non-silicone grease and it's degraded the rubber on the pad, even with no load on the spring will create a nice pretty pattern on the pad 🙂

Looks to me like the aeg was left for a few weeks / months with the spring in a fully compressed state - imprinting onto the cylinder head pad.

there's a few video's on YT which explain how to check the compression. Those parts look ok. The cylinder head pad has taken a little beating but should still working ok. Also check your bucking and hop chamber.

Yep, and makes sense due to the high tooling costs. A few years ago I wanted a Chinese motor factory to make me a motor similar to the Taiwanese / ASG versions that were out. This required all new tooling etc and I was quoted around $100,000. In regards to the Paragon motor, I didn't even think about startup speed or parallel winding (again whatever that may be). I did however think about the motor shaft thickness and CNC pinion gear (samples are on their way now) For EZO bearings these I decided against as it would have added an extra £10 onto the price and the ones I use are high grade and seem fine so far. One thing Michael from Paragon did pick up on was that the T238 was quite a bit shorter and did say it caused some issues on some builds, hence why there's is longer.

haha thanks, theirs are pretty good from the specs I've seen but £50 more for the product and then £31 for shipping (then add on the tax). I'd like to order one up and try it out but the cost is crippling.

Springs are all different types of lengths, have different types of coils etc. have a read of some of spring threads here, lot of good info there.

Isopropanol flex incoming 🙂

Wow, that's super cheap, basically £1 each. Fantastic.

I don't sadly. I do get asked about these every now and then. Just hard to source along with loads of other small plastic parts. I'm working with a friend at the moment to get our own injection molding setup up and running, will take a while but once it is then small parts like this should be readily available.

@Fatboy40 glad you got it all sorted, if ever you need a thrust bearing just shout, got plenty of them. I'm not a GATE user so don't have a whole deal of experience with them sadly.

What brand motor? Oh I got the impression you were getting the blue stuff from the new motor

Is this your 1st viewing of tour of duty? I think they changed some of the music on the box set.

Oh my days 😁 you and your length obsession lol Is the spring you fitted one you purchased from me? If so you just grab the power just down from it. I'm away at the moment but can sort something out soon for you.

It's a number of variables, length yes but most important being number of coils and thickness of wire. And as @Sewdhull says it's the N force in the 60mm or so in the cylinder. Every gearbox is slightly different so you'll get some variation. 1.3mm vs 1.4mm thickness makes quite a difference. Also quality of wire. I went through 5 Chinese companies before realising they their grade of steel wasn't good enough and in the end switched to Japanese steel. Quite a long, painful and expensive process! I've had my tester M110 spring now for 4 years, must be 500,000 through it so maybe I'll do a video on it soon and compare it to the new ones. For some customers who are unsure what spring to buy I've been sending out my tester M100 spring, along with their order. That way they can benchmark with the M100 and then either keep or return. Just saves a few pennies for anyone strapped at the moment.

Looks to me like you've fitted a 3mm wide bearing under the selector plate but a 2.5mm on the bevel gear. Ideally you need 2.5mm bearings. You can fit 3mm, in fact EZO (3x8x3) get their extra strength from being 0.5mm wide. EZO do 2.5mm wide but the set I tested exploded. Can you measure them?

As @Lozart mentioned, I think your CORE model has a 460mm inner barrel as standard, presuming a full cylinder? (you'll need to check). If you move to something around 360mm then something like a 4/5 cylinder would be better. I just received a new stock of Outer Barrel parts, not sure how much the Laylax set is?