ak2m4

@JinxDuh where's the crack exactly?

Jurassic Army. Look at the size of the vent holes in the piston head. Length of the cylinder head shaft looks quite long as well. Looks all nice and clean, cheap to fix up and run

@Pollynator_bravo2 clean that inner barrel and wash that rubber

mmmmmmmm copypasta

get some heat on the motor grip plate, that should dislodge the screw. I'm guessing they're 7mm

POM material super nice for tappet plates and only slightly more expensive if using a mold

Already ahead of you, I just didn't want to take the conversation away from the wheel issue. I'm also looking at making a new POM rotary with slightly better tolerances You're welcome

Great chatting to you, glad you got the gearbox apart.

The wheel on the ZCI rotary isn't the greatest design, so much so I'm looking to get my own one molded that's a little smaller and with better notches so you can at least count the turns etc. As for your problem maybe take the upper off, turn upside-down, fit the rotary and barrel and try to see where the wheel is rubbing. A customer did mention this before I remember and it was the gearbox case.

The general go-to gears are SHS, in your case 18:1's... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/shs-18-gearset As for the delayer, you can try one I suppose but when you have the gearbox open just check all the compression parts, give everything a good clean and re-grease with some gear and compression lube. As for consistency so many things can affect it, barrel, hop chamber, bucking, nub, nozzle, spring etc. Best to get the gearbox working nicely with the new gears and then go from there. Oh forgot to say, when you have the gearbox open and the new gears fitted it's always best to manually operate the gears with your fingers, this will give you a good idea of how the parts are working together and will show any issues. Be sure to post up pics or video here if you get stuck.

I would get hold of a cheap non-ICS hop chamber and modify that to work. I remember this problem from a few years back, can't remember the model of the AEG or if something like the ZCI plastic worked or not. There's a ICS group on FB, you might find the answer there.

Also make sure you have some silicone grease for the orings as well... I sell a little kit but you use anything that's suitable for orings. You want the fitment on the nozzle to be tight but not overly tight where it restricts movement. Same with the oring on the piston head, needs to seal but not be too tight.

I mention MR since I do all my testing on them and the hop window on the XT inner barrel is enlarged for the larger patch of the MR. It really doesn't matter too much, both will work.

Go with this one: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/maple-leaf-mr-60-nub

@Yashy you need to make sure it is a 363mm defaintely that you need. I can't tell you this for sure, I'm only going on the link you provided above. So before you order it's work taking the inner barrel out and just measuring it to be sure. You have to take it apart anyway so worth doing now.

That SA AEG uses a 363mm inner barrel which I don't have any left in stock, maybe a few arriving on Monday. Factory is currently working on the 6.03mm samples right now so they're kinda pushed.

Give us some fps stats, also have you changed anything (I can see a spring in the video), is it all stock etc etc etc.

First you need to take a peek at that what can without opening up the gearbox, so take motor out and examine the pinion gear, see what's occurring. Follow this thread as well, seems you guys have something in common, oh and video is always really helpful.

I'm sure I have a spare E&C upper brand new around, yours for £20 if I can find it and if you want it?

For some reason a few packages direct from Jakub at perun have been stopped by BF. I sent out a replacement last week for a customer that was originally blocked. Very strange.

I ran into the same problem when I was working on an updated website earlier this year. It's perfectly doable, just need extra time that's all. Maybe FS didn't want to pay for the export/import work, but for me carrying over that kind of information is quite important. If they couldn't do that at least leave the old website up in read-only format so customers can check past orders.

Great stuff, good to see you back. Yes the UKARA membership is still a bit of a stumbling block to some with having to play at the same site etc.

yep Guarder certainly caught out a few people with their springs. Funny enough when I initially started selling them I emailed the manufacturer many times asking if they could confirm what BB weight they rated their spring with, they said to me 0.2g which didn't make sense. After coming across way too many stories of broken springs and people with the same issue as yourself I ended up getting my own springs made.

You often get strange BB's acting different, it's not an accurate science as many variables. I'm certainly in the "don't overthink it" camp. You're flying close to the sun there though. A Guarder sp100 spring is roughly equivalent to a M110. As @Cannonfodder says try another chrono and see. You can spend ££ trying to eliminate the odd inconsistency however often better to just leave it alone and enjoy.

a little bit more complicated than that. most made from a mold then need to be polished internally to get somewhere near the right advertised inner diameter. in fact quite tricky for large production if looking for around £20'ish retail @Rogerborg 100% correct, no real benefit from going past 300mm certainly within the UK. I did try opening up the end of a XT 6.00mm to around 6.03mm, but found unless I could re-polish to a really high-level I found I just introduced more issues. It's a shame, I wish I had access to a high-end polishing machine,