Lozart

Will do.

Safariland style drop leg holster and an ASAP style sling plate from Taiwangun, some WE Green gas and a pair of Bolle Cobra Platinum coated goggles from Amazon. Hopefully it'll all get here in time for the weekend!

If the fuse is good, I would suggest that something else broke when the fuse blew...

I used Dytac Invaders in my TM M4 and they worked well. Then I bastardised the TM M4 so it's not mostly Dytac anyway and guess what - they still work really well! I paid about £40 for a box of 5 if I remember correctly.

Maybe nobody else has taken that specific part to bits before? Try taking a look on YouTube for the same stripdown. Failing that, get in touch with Milspec Solutions http://www.milspecsolutions.co.uk/

Sounds like you've lost way more than your desired amount of FPS. Check your airseal is good.

Sounds like dodgy wiring at the rear somewhere. My money would be on either a bad connection in the battery connector or it's damaged as the wiring goes into the body. Get it sorted soon if you're running a LiPo - shorting out a LiPo can have pretty bad results!

Still want to do a full on Ghost Recon load out. Probably the GRAW2 one or maybe the Future Soldier Kozak one but they fall more in the cosplay than airsoft arena for me!

I actually use a range of weights depending on the gun. The M249 for example is using up my stock of 0.2 Blasters which I bought because my TM M4 was originally so weak! The SCAR usually gets a Hi-Cap full of Blaster Tracer for CQB work so I can see where I'm shooting

Blasters, preferably Blaster Devils for me. I have heard good things about the G&Gs though.

This is EXACTLY how I felt when I started trying to buy kit! The gucci stuff is in stock but expensive, nothing popular stays on the shelf for long and as you say retailers have massive website with no stock. It's frustrating but I've found the finding the various stores on Facebook is a good way to keep up to date with deliveries and new stock.

You don't HAVE to but they work better if you do.

Sort of - in the game they're .45ACP AMT Hardballers, in the film they're referred to as Silverballers but are actually Para Ordnance P18.9 (hi cap 9mm 1911 clone)

The RPF: http://www.therpf.com/f71/definitive-dredd-2012-lawgiver-research-thread-176715/

As the man said the pistol is the Lawgiver. If you want the one from Dredd 3D (because I assume that either a) you haven't seen the Stallone one or b ) you have and want nothing to do with it like anyone else with any sense) it's a dressed up Glock 17. There's some guys over at the Replica Preop Forum that have made them from Airsoft Glocks. Go take a look. Also http://www.imfdb.org/wiki/Dredd

As the man says, a 7.4V LiPo won't do you any harm and will give you better trigger response. You could convert the connectors to Deans but you'll need to be at least competent with a soldering iron to do that. Did you do the gearbox work yourself or pay someone else?

Even Rolls Royces go wrong sometimes. Buying a more expensive brand SHOULD give you a higher chance of getting a better made/designed product but as you have become aware it's not a guarantee. The thing to look at though is the overall throughput versus the failure rate when judging a brand. If G&G for example are having an issue with some of their MOSFET units (I assume that the rest of the gun isn't falling apart as well) then obviously they have a QA problem with that specific part. The value in buying a decent brand is just as much in the after sales and how quickly they move to rectify the fault as it is in the actual product itself. Buying cheap and then spending time, effort and money to get to a point where the higher end products always are isn't always cost effective. It depends on how highly you value your time and whether or not airsoft teching is your thing. Having bought an old TM M4A1 and spent the time and effort (and money) to get it to where it is now pretty much as good as a gun I could have bought straight off the bat with the same total budget has taught me one thing - do it because you WANT to not because you think it'll be a cheaper way of getting a good gun.

Sorry, yes you're right.

Is there any way of bypassing the Mosfet? I seem to remember hearing tales of the Mosfet on the G&Gs burning out In fact: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/20546-g-g-top-tech-gen-3-owners-problems-with-mosfets/

Import duty starts at £15, import VAT starts at £135. Duty will be applied to the value of the goods and then VAT will be applied to the total (including the duty) http://customs.hmrc.gov.uk/channelsPortalWebApp/channelsPortalWebApp.portal?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=pageTravel_ShowContent&id=HMCE_CL_000014&propertyType=document#P34_3134 Also - http://www.dutycalculator.com/dc/172968/sports-leisure/shooting/airsoft-guns/import-duty-rate-for-importing-airsoft-gun-from-china-to-united-kingdom-is-3.2/ and - http://www.dutycalculator.com/hs-code-duty-rate-import-restrictions/930400/airsoft-guns/9304.00.2000/9304.00.0000/1932/

I don't think the G&G mosfet is programmable is it? It sounds like the sort of behaviour you would expect from a sticky trigger contact but that shouldn't actually happen with a mosfet'd gun unles the mosfet is goosed. What battery are you running it on?

Compared to what exactly?

It's nylon fibre reinforced ABS on G&Gs and it's pretty bombproof!

This confuses me - my actual TM M4A1 has a threaded barrel. I have changed the flash hider to a Dytac QD one so I can use my tracer on it! Must be a CYMA thing rather than a TM thing?