Lozart

Looks about the right price. Great goggles, go for it.

All I will say in response to that is that I used to do this stuff for a living. A FET will improve your trigger response without changing the original wiring but not as much as changing the whole set-up as you rightly say.

I believe the real one isBakelite so not "plastic" as such but yes. Technically it's a thermosetting plastic but not plastic like your one is. Still. Happy painting!

That's....not entirely true. The capacity to switch larger currents is part of what makes the FET useful as it prevents all the current going through the trigger contacts which can then arc and lead to poor switching and conduction but it's also the ramp rate of the FET that makes the trigger response better. You could JUST fit a hardwired FET using all the original wiring and get a much improved trigger response because the FET can go from 0 to full current far quicker than a mechanical switch. Granted if you combine this with better wiring, Deans connectors etc then the trigger response will be better still but don't make the mistake of thinking that's where the greatest benefit in switching speed comes from.

Gotcha. For some reason I thought the heatshield was metal. White primer for brown is fine. Red is better but I don't think you can easily get a red plastic primer.

http://kotaku.com/5931169/just-imagine-the-bugs-you-can-shoot-with-this-starship-troopers-gun/

My thoughts exactly. Although to be fair I also thought "nice soldering" the joints themselves are actually quite tidy!

Get ESS goggles on ebay. V12 Advancers go for about £20-£25 a set.

Following on from that ^^^^ "aggressive stripper" chemicals like Nitromors are fucking horrible and should not be used unless ABSOLUTELY necessary. The two tone paint used on your rifle is most likely Krylon and does NOT need such harsh and dangerous chemicals. If you decide you absolutely MUST use a paint stripper instead of fairy power spray and bit of elbow grease then I suggest you seek out one of the more environmentally non toxic types like Biostrip http://www.biostrip.co.uk/paint-stripping/biostrip-20-paint-stripper-spray.html

What's the plastic primer for? If it's going to be sprayed black you should have got grey plastic primer - might be worth trying to change your order. It's not the end of the world but it will make a difference to the final colour.

Leave it be. Play with it, decide if the shortcomings you find are actually you or the gun and then fix what needs fixing. It's a good gun as is, don't fuck it up by "upgrading".

Depends really. How quickly would you like the paint to fall off? If "in a matter of hours" is your answer then don't bother with primer. The ones on Youtube are most likely painting over plastic with Krylon Fusion. This doesn't need a separate primer because it already contains an adhesion promoter (or primer in laymans terms). If the surface finish on the gun is sound (even if it is blue) then to be fair you could probably get away with just keying that with some red scotchbrite and painting over the top. My issue with that is that whoever 2 toned it wouldn't have done the surface prep properly so it may very well flake off taking your nice new top coat with it. As with many things in life, do it properly - do it once.

Just how bright do they need to be though? My ASG one is plenty bright enough to be seen in normal ambient light (certainly bright enough to give away your position in the dark) I can't honestly see any need for it to be any brighter!

They'll definitely last a full game day maybe more if you remember to turn it off at the end of the day!

This. And not just because he said me. To be fair if you're just looking for a colour change then you're right about rubbing it down first - go for a final finish around 600 grit, superfine sandpaper will be too smooth fop the paint to grip properly. I'd make sure you get all the blue off, down to metal if you can but it's not an absolute must. Then get thee to Halfords and buy some grey primer (you may need to get plastic primer AS WELL not instead of for the plastic parts) and some matt black paint. Primer first then colour but work in light coats. DON'T try and get full coverage in one go or it'll run and look shit. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE CAN. If it says allow 30mins between coats then do it. It's not rocket science but if you want a good result, don't rush it. If you want a more "gunmetal" type finish, once it's black grind up some soft pencil lead with some sandpaper and rub it lightly over the black using a bit of cotton wool. You'll get a nice grey, metallic effect. Seal it with some matt clear coat (PlastiKote is good for this).

I'd suggest taking it somewhere else. If the guy said it was fixed last time and it's still exhibiting the same issue then he clearly didn't fix it properly the first time. Initial thoughts personally are - what else has been done to the gun? Is the motor adjusted properly? Has it been shimmed too tight? a 7.4v LiPo shouldn't be drawing so much current as to blow a 25A fuse all the time unless the gearbox/motor isn't standard.

...and there's your problem.

Get the ASG B&T one. It's exceptionally good and much cheaper than the Marui one. I takes standard batteries so just buy a set of rechargeables from Maplin and Bob's your uncle.

Did you take any pictures?

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Simple. You'll have to take the whole assembly out anyway and it really is a simple job to fit a new one. Equally if you're utterly ham fisted you'll potentially end up screwing up both. It's your choice of course, personally I tend to swap out the hop rubber for a Prometheus purple one as a matter of course but that just because I prefer them. If there's nothing wrong with how your hop works now, there's really not THAT much you can do fitting a new barrel to screw it up completely.

While much of what SD says makes sense and is borne out of a vast amount of time spent desperately trying to get crap guns work better do you actually NEED to change your hop up? Why do you think you do? Also - what make is the gun? Also - gearboxes are not all the same, AKs generally use what is known as a V3 gearbox, M4 style guns tend to use a V2, M14s use a V7 etc etc. Beyond that not all V3 gearboxes are the same as each other. They're pretty similar but there's always some subtle differences - quality of gearing, size and type of bearings etc.

Not strictly true. In real guns, yes but not in airsoft. Potentially better accuracy but range is more a function of the hop up than the length of the barrel.

Yes.

Krylon should be fine as long as the current finish is sound. If not, rub it down to bare metal then primer and matt black car paint from Halfords.

A good polymer gun is almost always stronger than a cheap metal one. That ICS should be fine though.