Lozart

I'm not sure that a cheap Chinese knockoff ACOG even has a prism (happy to be proven wrong).

Right, if you're after a "normal" rate of fire and using 18:1 gears (which is what will be in the gun to start with by the way), you won't be running the gun so fast as to be experiencing the issue in that video. (for anyone else https://youtu.be/2vRmh9UTsSU?si=nHgoCniiX9LoE5ve ) Hop up you can do whenever, it isn't going to affect things like trigger response and rate of fire. It may well affect your power because the Maxx hop units are notorious for fitment and alignment issues and may need a different nozzle to match up with it. I'd say either do it first before you fuck about with the gearbox and see if it works OK with the nozzle or do it AFTER the gearbox so as not to introduce a problem that may throw you off something wrong with your tappet timing. I'd do etu first, then the motor, then the gears IF it needs it.

Yes....and no. The issues with pre-engagement will still be there if the gears are cycling too quickly, adding a delay to it won't help. In answer to your "what should I use" question, have you actually tried it with the stock gears and the 11.1v battery yet? Do that, swap the motor for the brushless and try it again. If it's still not quick enough, try a set of 16:1 gears (preferably a decent set like XT or SHS). Make sure you shim the gearbox properly or you risk it failing. Don't just throw the bits all in at the same time because if you run into a problem, you won't know what caused it. Go slowly and change one thing at a time. With the best will in the world, you are unlikely to turn a £150 rif into a £400 one by throwing loads of cheap parts at it, but you will (hopefully) learn how a gearbox works and have some fun along the way. Just don't set your expectations too high and you'll be fine.

It definitely looks pissed, but from those pics, so does your front sight. It's possible that taking a few hard knocks may have shifted the glass. Is that as far across as the adjustment will let it go?

Rate of fire control on a Mosfet just adds a delay into the cycle time, it doesn't affect the speed of the motor.

He means that it's all going to run very quickly and likely suffer from pre-engagement resulting in the gearbox shitting itself quite rapidly. What are you hoping to achieve? What is your desired end result? Also - how much experience do you have with working on AEG gearboxes? It looks like the BJX gears you've bought are for a gel blaster, not an airsoft gun. Alloy piston is a mistake. The Maxx hop unit tracer connects to the motor terminals for the tracer. If you do that it may well cause an issue with the mosfet and will almost definitely cause an issue with a brushless motor.

You're absolutely right about the evolution of how people consume their info but with more and more social media platforms cracking down on firearms and replicas it'll be interesting to see how things develop. Personally, I really like the forum format and I would hope we'd see a swing back to that but I'm not sure that generations raised on social media will want that.

And with UCP tape too

If you're planning to gut it and slap a bunch of spangly bits in to raise the FPS then I'd say get a Cyma 701b and buy the upgrades you want. If you really want a shorter barrel and suppressor to get the same look as a G spec then there's plenty of parts out there to replicate that.

Like this you mean?

Don't get me wrong, I want one and if it comes with the reciprocating barrel then happy days!

Because it would be horrifically complicated and likely to break? Yes it would be great but would you rather have a functioning gun or a broken wall hanger?

From the conversation I had with him about the M-LOK rails, the G&G is closer to the WE in dimensions.

Wow! His shell ejecting Lynx is pretty wild but this is cool!

Really don't know why they call this stuff Kaizen foam. If anything it should be Poka-Yoke foam.

WTF? (he's talking about the stock/carry handle ads)

Why do you say it's massive? If it's longer than the original spring, that's not unusual! Aftermarket springs are quite often longer than the original ones - this is not a problem.

Everyone loves the idea of it until they actually try it. Fun parallels with MTBs - I used to be a pretty keen MTBer until I developed "downhill specific geometry" if you see what I mean. Now, when I started doing it vaguely regularly I picked a decent starter bike at the time (a KHS if I recall). Nothing fancy, Shimano STX groupset, butted steel frame etc. By about 6 months in it had titanium skewers, V brakes, a mix of XT and LX parts and a new triple butted frame that weighed less than my right nut. Did it need it? Not really. Did it make me a better rider? God, no. Was it unnecessarily expensive? Absolutely. Just like airsoft. I still wear my old Endura Humvee top for airsoft when it gets really warm!

My X300U came with a screw fitting to permanently attach it, might give that a try first.

I have the same type of holster, the one piece of advice I would give is that while it has been generally good, just make sure that your Surefire clone fits the rail on your pistol properly. Last couple of times out using my TM M9A1 the torch has separated from the pistol rail and the pistol has come out of the holster while I was running. Currently looking at resurrecting my old Safariland clone for that one.

Yeah, I wasn't planning on getting divorced this month.

Monolithic upper for the win!

This might explain it a bit https://readingplastic.com/self-lubricating-plastic/ To be honest it's all bit beyond my own personal ken, but it comes up quite a lot in the kind of work we do (automation, machine control etc).

That's not really how self lubricating plastic works.