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Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies

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Posts posted by Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies

    The 'What have you just bought' Thread

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    Might just be the placebo effect but holy fuck this little thing is good. Noticably better and consistant hop. Getting much flatter trajectory.

     

    http://imgur.com/MzvM6dZ

     

    Hop up is stock with antiflex plate mod and pdi-w hold.

     

    15 euro shipped,purchased direct from AirsoftPro.cz. shipping took about 10 business days to ireland.

     

    Upgrades like this are always nice.

    Good to get you stoked for the next outing.

    What are you driving?

    in Off-Topic Discussion

    Posted

    Doing my test mid-January,but since my provisional is still valid that gives plenty of excuse to be chauffeur for ma.

     

    Driving a 1998 Volkswagen Sharan MPV. Old school diesel,400,000km on the clock. Autotragic which is a shame since the engine has a fair bit of go. Plenty of room for airsoft kit and mountain bikes )))

     

    If I have to get a first car I'd deffo like a small panel van,Like a VW caddy or something. Insurance is cheaper and I need space. I also refuse to be forced to drive a small french death trap. My brother's first car was a standard Clio and it was terrifying to be in. And I've driven/been in Ladas and a fucking Zaporozhets! http://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--HyBBNjA6--/18s06l4wjb71ajpg.jpg

    The 'What have you just bought' Thread

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    Yep,had the idea to do it from the asf but never bothered since my mags always dropped out nicely. Now they don't due to wear I guess.

     

    If I had the time,patience and a non blunt drill bit,I would deffo recommend drilling and looping paracord. I had to melt the nylon lace ends to a 'plastic' form,then lightly sand the mag indent to actually bond it properly because otherwise it came off with a little bit of force.

    Gained an extra 30' flat trajectory for free!

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    I dabbled in this mod quite a bit after digging up an old airsoftsociety thread :P

     

    I personally prefer using epoxy to shape the new nub as I find the pencil eraser is inefficient and can cause curving issues at long range I found it jammed up the whole gun when applying too much hop.

     

    with epoxy or some similar filling you can file it to shape similar to a Dangerwerx arm,the parabola is way better(in my experience)

     

    Of course,the inefficiency problems using a square eraser nub are only with standard buckings,a W-hold in my case,with R-hop or G-hop where pressure is applied differently the M-nub is better I've been told.

     

    Maybe I have been doing something wrong using a flat eraser bit or maybe it's because of the way the W-hold works. Every bit of performance is worthwhile and if yours works then no bother at all.

    Achieving maximum range under 350 fps with a bolt action rifle

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies runs something similar. Without having tried it myself, I'd tend to agree with Hef: PDI 6.01mm barrel and the softest rubber you can find - either a Prometheus Purple or maybe look into one of those 40 deg rubbers they were selling on ehobbyasia.com and yeah, I'd probably go for R-Hop too, set up for .28g BB Bastards.

     

    + Wrap the forward part of the rubber in PTFE tape to get as tight a seal between the barrel, hop chamber, and rubber.

     

    & Use a very good piston head O-Ring - Lees Precision Engineering are good (they have an eBay shop)

     

    + plenty of CT-2 Teflon grease on the O-ring and inside of cylinder (£4/50g search fleabay)

     

    Adding weight to the gun also increases its inertia, which ought to improve accuracy by lessening involuntary movement while pulling the trigger...

     

    Welcome to Irish sniping :P

     

    I've talked with a couple of lads to reddit to update myself on what's best and it seems not much has changed. What I run is quite a budget build with a lot of DIY stuff but it can all be replaced with shelf parts.

     

    First thing's first,you will pretty much have to play at AEG ranges so be stealthy or quick . Small 3x or 4x optic is good,no point in a massive 3-9x40 like I run. Adding inertia is a good idea,as long as the gun is balanced.

     

    PDi-W hold is probably the better bucking for 1J VSR builds. I've been told the Maple leaf has the best sealing quality but is rubbish on it's own. The Laylax buckings have had spotty QC,needing material removal but are still good,though,generally people seem to like the 'split' buckings.

    I run .28s and .30s,the latter being the max weight for the W hold in my experience.

     

    If you want to keep the Stock chamber,you will have to do some work to the adjuster mech as it bends and causes uneven hop pressure. Very trial and error job. Consists of making thin metal spacers and sticking them around the adjuster and arm to increase rigidity. taken ages to get mine right and there's still a tiny bit of curve. Also you will need to invest in a dangerwerx Type B arm or the airsoftpro one to get the best out of the stock chamber.

     

    Right now the Action army hop chamber is very popular. If you want absolute accuracy I recommend this. Pdi chamber is a bitch to adjust and the laylax one is expensive.

     

    Good barrel always helps. PDi are the best option for Bolt actions. 6.05 bore Steel ones are good.

     

    Barrel spacers of course help,you can make them out of masking tape,no different to bought ones. An extreme mod some american lad once did is pouring wax down his outer barrel to seal in the inner.

     

    On the plus side,you can save some money since you can stick with the stock trigger mech. I'd replace the piston with one that has a steel catch like the AA or laylax one. SHS or PPS sear set is my choice. I'd chose the SHS piston sear as it's made of softer steel and is the cheapest and easiest wear part to replace.

     

    Finally,goes without saying,standard sealing jobs are an absolute must. power output has to be as consistant as possible. The cylinder is an easy job. I am getting 100% full seal using PTFE tape,Stock Marui O-ring on a Laylax piston. Cylidner polished and lightly greased,head tapered and nozzle crowned.

     

    The Action army chamber should have good seal. PTFE tape and maybe some gasket maker around the hop bucking and barrel joint is also a good option.

    TM Recoil, good or all hype?

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    Had the pleasure of using a Scar-L at a game recently.

     

    Very good performance. Especially at 1J,the Irish legal limit. Shot pretty much better than any other ootb AEG at 1J I've used,2-3 round bursts were hitting pretty much everything in average engagement distances of 30-40 meters,even through foliage.

     

    The recoil just makes it a bit more satisfying to use. It's cool to have. While it's nothing near a GBB,has good passable feedback for every shot you make. When firing in small full auto bursts it's much better,single fire it's 'meh'.

     

    For me though,the biggest factor is the bolt stop. Yes,you can rig up a system on a bog standard AEG but the Marui system works very well. It's very much the most practical part on these guns aside from the good stock performance. I found it much more fun and much more efficient because of the bolt stop.

     

    Now the price- they are overpriced. That's the case with pretty much all marui products. Mags are pricey too and are often out of stock,though if you're lucky you can grab them when japanese and asian online shops have free shipping for good prices I've been told.

     

    Personally,if I had the money I would definitely get one,I'd avoid the AKs and the G36 as they lack bolt stop,and the AKs have some external durability issues. If i'm paying high money for a recoil I'd get a model that has both advertised features.

    Celcius ak

    in Latest News

    Posted

    Cool,VFC/real style takedown AK that's not a china clone and 100% steel

    Sounds good. VFC AKs are getting harder to find and the cyma/dboys clones aren't as sexy since they use some pot metal in key areas(which fucks with RS style pinned takedown)

     

    I expect it to be sub 1k price since AKs are cheaper to make than ARs (pressing steel is much easier than casting/forging and milling alumi) but being a TW,you will probably still need hundreds worth of parts to get it perfect (how reliable/moneysink are celcius TWs anyway?)

     

    Bah,what am I blabbing on about. I'm fine with my china clones and will still await a lord and saviour to clone VFC AKs without using cast dogshit

    Brace yourself, Winter is coming.

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    I switch to Pyrohide & Kevlar gloves, but since my nerve damage has got worse and the cold seriously aggravates the pain it causes, I'm planning on getting some Russian winter gloves.

     

    I'm currently researching gas for my pistols - I have a CO2 USP NBB to fall back on, but I want to be able to skirmish my Tokarev TT33 and my new P.45 Match. Does anyone know if the likes of Guarder Powerful and Nuprol 3.0 & 4.0 blow the seals of ordinary green gas mags if the temp is warmer than the cold they are intended for? I'm thinking about room temp, say 20deg, ie gassing up before I leave / having to empty them before i return. I was thinking of starting a new thread (and i may yet) but so far it seems on topic in here. What are people's experiences of Nuprol 4.0 Black in general?

    Russian winter gloves are a good option. Can definitely depend on keeping you warm(Talking about the OD mitten with the red palm area). However,if you want something more dextrous also check out the german army goretex winter gloves,yet to use them in winter since I haven't had a chance and will not have a chance to try them out this winter in Ukraine,but for Irish winter,they're perfect. If you wear one of those fabric liner gloves from a cleanroom it's even warmer.

     

    On the gas-

     

    I'm reading and hearing two different things- That WE Nuprol 4.0 is indeed slightly better than other 'green' gases (regular propane with silicone mixed in, and the other,that it's just regular propane and silicone mix that's jacked up marketing and price wise. If there's anyone that actually learned how gases work,what is there that you can do to make regular propane more efficient?

     

    I can pop down to the local shop and read the 'ingredients' on it if you want :P

     

    What I do for winter,is just throw on more layers. Long Johns,more shirts over the telnyashka, and grand. Austrian M65 jackets are fantastic for water resistance and cold winds. As long as my feet are dry,I'm fine with having soaked and cold legs since I can warm them up more easily by running about.

    For boots,just warm them up and slather them with regular old kiwi polish. all those waterproofing sprays I've used on previous and current boots do shit all compared to polish. Sno-seal I've heard fucks up the breath ability of the leather. Also,cotton socks are the devil for wet and cold weather. That's all I can really offer.

    Good range for under £160?

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    Easiest option? Move closer!

     

    Harder option is delving into mods. I'm not 100% up to date with things due to both a dry spell in chairsofting and actual airsofting.

     

    Assuming you have G&G M4 you have a pretty decent gun to work with. 160 quid is good enough to get a very good performing gun.

     

    Gearbox work is pretty much inevitable sadly... Not much point having PDi barrels and r-hop if your still getting +/-15 FPS inconsistency.

     

    So here are my suggestions:

     

    O-ring nozzle

    Double O-ring cylinder head

    Polished cylinder

    AOE correction on Piston(Optional)

    Stretch O-ring on piston (Optional but recommended)

    Good lubrication on the cylinder,that's a given.

     

    Hop parts:

    You can either go for mad custom hop set ups,like R-hop,flat hop,etc.. but I would honestly say standard hop stuff is perfectly fine and there's nothing inherently wrong with it. R-hop will get you some fantastic range and accuracy but it requires a lot of work and tuning. Besides,you have rate of fire to make up for a lot of things.

     

    New barrel- Laylax,Madbull(Avoid the steel barrels,last I heard they had some QC issues. Coated aluminium ones are fine) and Lonex should be plenty fine. Don't go tighter than 6.03 unless you want more power. 6.05 is pretty popular.

     

    For hop up units and buckings I'm sadly far out of date. G&G green stock ones are fine in my experience. Laylax purple have QC issues but are good. Lonex are popular too but that's it really.

     

    For units,again,G&G make some of the better stock ones. Lonex make good aftermarket ones and I've heard good things about SHS.

    .28 tracers

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    I'm using Nuprol non tracer .28s,perfect so far. Using them in cheap ASG speedloaders(The ones you usually get with double eagle tri-shots) and no problems. They fly better than the ASG blasters I usually use. Please note I'm using a VSR which usually feeds anything from freeze dried peas.

     

    I purchased mine in April or May I think,newer batch anyway. No problems with feeding. Cons are that they smell foul. Noxious burnt plastic like smell.

     

    The feeding issues in AEGs could stem from the fact that they're polished differently and aren't near as slick or greasy as other makes,meaning they might get jammed up in mags or hop feeding tubes.

     

    On the plus side for spring rifles,they don't leave as much crap behind on the bucking and barrel.

    The 'What have you just bought' Thread

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    Set of JG BAR10 Iron sights from TeddyBhoy. Only for the P&P,8.50 GBP. Sound af.

     

    Something to fill the space between my high scope mounts and rail,and something to aim with in dense forests or night time where there is not enough light for my scope.

     

    What's best to paint them with for night usage? I have some UV paint (Got it with a security pack for bike insurance) but I somehow doubt it'll have much use on sights.

    DIY

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    yeah boiii time for a necro

     

    Sewn and ironed the neck cover on the hood of my jacket. When worn it forms closely to the neck and covers the zipper/pouch area where the hood would normally be folded. The thick canvas of the hood is attached to elastic,and stretches to fit,hence why I only badly attached it to 3 points :D

     

    I found it always soaked through this area in heavy rain but I think this should stop it now. Downside is the hood is now permanently folded out,but I never fold it into the collar anyway.

     

    s9VawB2.jpg

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