Wo1f

For what it’s worth, I played Saturday and had no issues with any of my pistols. Although it was a little warmer. If you wear a PC or vest with your mags on, you can get one of those chemical hand warmers and put them in there near the mags. Won’t help for the one in the gun, but I’ve seen it done. how often are you realistically using your pistol in game?

Never used pro tech gas, so I assume it’s similar to most green gas. With TM pistols, I always run green gas or rather propane. What you sometimes find is if you put really high pressure gas in the mag, the hammer spring isn’t strong enough to depress the valve on the mag. Easy way to test would be to put your mag in the fridge for 15 mins, take it out, fill it with whatever gas you want you use and test fire it. Mws should be fine. I run mine on propane all year round. If it’s 0 or below I’d use MAP gas

It’s arrived! Carbon fibre PRI handguard. Just waiting on the top rail.

Do what I do. Come home with wine and when she asks how much the gun was, always move the decimal point one place to the left.

I’ve just had a quick scroll through the for sale threads. I think it would be more productive and shorter to create a thread for things that aren’t ridiculously priced.

I base my life around this principle

@Bloodwing I don’t like bio’s in general because they tend to leave residue on everything. Just loading airsoft surgeon .3 bios from a speedloader left a white mark on the little ‘ramp’. GBBR’s need reasonably hard BB’s because they are loaded into the chamber with considerably more force than an aeg, which is just fed through an L shaped hop chamber. While I have never used them, if I had to use Bio’s I would go with Geoff’s bio BB’s. I consider Geoff’s to be the best BB’s money can buy currently. Stock performance out of the box will exceed a TM recoil, so you’ve no issues with performance. The max they can hop in standard form (because of the hollow nub) is .28-.30. For 90% of people that’s more than sufficient. At 20m using .28, my standard gun was hitting a 2” target virtually every time. In terms of reliability.. I have 3 and haven’t managed to break a single one so far. Nozzle return springs are supposed to break on occasion, but it’s never happened to me, and they’re only a couple quid to replace. Play style is the major change with GBBR’s. For the first game or 2 you may struggle, but it will improve your game dramatically. I always tell people the same thing. If you see someone at a distance, take A couple of shots. If you can’t hit them in 3, there’s no point firing another. Move closer and reengage. Once you’re familiar with the range and accuracy of the gun and you’ve got an optic set up for that range, you’ll know by eye without firing if you can hit them or not. Any other questions, don’t hesitate to ask.

A super expensive mk12 carbon PRI handguard for my Mws and I’ve no idea if it will even fit.

If you’re allowed 400 FPS, .36-.43 will give you very impressive range, assuming you can hop the B.B. one of my MWS is set as a DMR 390fps and will reach out to 70-80m

You’ll see an increase in FPS, but why would you want that? You’d probably be over the limits. Mine shot 340fps out of the box on green gas. With a longer barrel you’ll be looking at 370-390fps. You’ll get more range, but you wouldn’t be able to use it. From my understanding about range and accuracy, it works like this... let’s say your Mws shoots 350fps on a .20 and you fire a .28 out of it. You dial the hop up to give you the flattest trajectory and that will give you a range and accuracy reading. To get out further you either need to increase the FPS or increase the hop. (Hop is the most important. A 350fps gun set up well will shoot further than a 500fps gun if it can’t apply a good amount of hop.) so you increase the hop pressure and your .28 BB curves up to the moon, making it useless. The only way to balance that extra back spin effect is to increase the BB weight, which will counteract the Magnus effect you’re applying with the hop. In an ideal world, to get the most range and accuracy, you want the heaviest BB your gun can hop enough to shoot straight. That’s why I upgrade the hop up buckings in everything. Take the MK23 pistol. Mine shoots 305-310 FPS. But it has the ability to hop a .45 bb, giving it great range. Heavier the BB, the more energy it retains for longer and the further it will travel.

Personally I prefer the decepticon. Contact patch is larger and it has an anti-rotation lug. They perform similarly however. @j_brujah if you’re only ever going to run .25-.28, leave the whole gun alone other than externals and green gas mod. With a longer barrel, you’ll see a jump in FPS/joules. If you’re trying to keep it to 350fps and using sub .28 ammo, nothing you change internally will have a noticeable positive effect on performance. However... if you want long range performance and accuracy, or even a DMR, then barrel and bucking mods are well worth it. A barrel will give you the ‘free’ FPS boost and the bucking will allow heavier BB’s to be used. The more energy you can transfer to a heavy (.32 minimum) BB, the more range and accuracy you’ll get.

Nothing special that I can see. I think it’s just the material. I’ve had fantastic luck with maple leaf, but I found with my Orga barrel at least, it cuts into the tip of the contact patch. It worked great one minute, and bad the next. You may have much better success with a different barrel

I got mine from skirmshopUK. They often refund the postage on something so small at the end of the week too. Be careful filing down. You don’t want to make anything rough. If you’re gonna do it, use really fine sandpaper.

MAP gas is made by syphoning the farts of Tokyo Marui’s lead GBBR designer on Christmas Day, after a whole month of eating nothing but sprouts and sushi. This explains its magical properties as well as that awful smell. @Davegolf better? 😂

The pressure is similar, but what’s important is the boiling point of MAP is lt boils about 10 degrees lower than propane/green gas. This means it can still function at a much lower temp. The boiling point of the gas is a key factor in cooldown.

It’s great stuff. If you’re going for a different brand, just make sure it’s the dry Teflon/ptfe. Otherwise you may end up with a mess

I wouldn’t personally change anything on the mags as they’re magic. The o ring rocket posted will do the job though.

With respect to the moderators on this forum... not everyone reads this thread and is aware of sketchy or scamming members. Can’t we as a community have a little more say on what is and isn’t okay for the sake of others in the group?

I would not put unregulated co2 inside a mag that wasn’t even designed for green gas. You’ll turn your mag into a pipe bomb. TM mags do seem to do that. Takes ages to fill them and they hiss until they spill liquid green gas out. I don’t see it as a problem so I don’t really worry about it. What BB’s are you using? I’ve had this issue every now and then, mostly with BB’s that aren’t Geoff’s. Not sure if it’s the coating inside he channel, but prolonged use should wear the sides smooth.

They should let me admin for the week. I’d make hitler look like the Dali lama, but there would be no idiots

It seems I spoke too soon. We need a good forum cull I think..

Propane has worked for me at 5c. Recoil is a little sluggish, but it emptied 2 mags on one gas fill. Nuprol is good gas through. If you’re going sub zero temps, try MAPP gas

Now that’s a pipe cutter lol

Highly reccomend a plate carrier for the mags. The stuff plate spreads the load evenly and stops them flapping around and winding you lol

Thought the forum has been devoid of stupidity for a while...