Wo1f

First of all... that’s the most beautiful rail I’ve ever seen. What is it? whats your FPS? With a maple leaf yellow (60) and the omega nub i can hop .4’s so something may be wrong. If you take the bucking out, have a look and see if the point on the nub is damaged inside. After doing loads of testing, I’d highly recommend a modify tan bucking and a SixG brass super nub. Up to now I’m having the best results with this setup.

Yeah. It was chronoing before I changed the bucking at 405fps but I was running map gas. I expect it to be 390-395 on propane. I’ll test it again now. I think the MTR and the type 89 are due out in the next month, so should be soon. Iron airsoft are also coming out with a Pmag for it. Random note.. I’d kill for some .40 tracers to see the trajectory properly at that distance

Status report: fuck maple leaf Modify tan tan fitted with omega nub (will be changing the nub to a SixG super nub) throwing .40 longbow out to 85m. Gonna try some .43 next week to see if there’s an improvement. Im not suggesting you can hit someone between the eyes at 85m, but the BB’s will get there. Send a couple down range and you’ll get your hit. Wasn’t aiming in the video, just pointed in the general direction. Hopefully you can see the trajectory of the BB

Yeah a WE. If you account for £50 to buy a barrel and bucking I’d argue it’s the cheapest, good gbbr. That modify tan bucking is shit hot in everything I’ve put it in. Yeah, the aluminium is soft, so after bolting it all down once, it warps the rail slightly at the barrel nut so it’s really tight to get on and off. I had to hammer it over the barrel nut this time. The light is only good for show. May as well strap a candle to the front 🤣

Hopefully the last time I have to take this rail off

Reverted back to a decepticon 60 and omega nub. Couldn’t get the I key or Prometheus bridge to work. Range back to around 80 meters with a .40 Stripping it down now go test the modify tan tomorrow. I’ve got one in my other Mws and g36c and I’m very impressed with them.

The things in the bags with the threads on are the barrel nuts. One is for a gbbr and one is for an AEG. Just see which threads on the nicest and use that one. From memory, you put the ring with the screw holes around it on first, then the barrel nut to fix it in place (but you need an adapter to go inside the barrel nut or the barrel will fall out). Then bolt the rail to the ring with the holes in. https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/pts-adapter-ring-for-marui-m4-mws-gbb

^^this apart from you have a screw underneath your delta nut assembly that you unscrew and most of it just slides off leaving a small barrel nut. Remember you need the adapter to fit an aftermarket barrel but.

+1 on the grip. I run a m900 light clone which has a vert grip and it makes a world of difference. Having your wrist/forearm not rotated has given me a few extra hours before I begin to really notice the weight. The clone ms slings are cheap £10-20 but are very good quality for the price. The RS ones will obviously be much better, but mine haven’t let me down carrying heavy GBBR’s. There’s only so much improvement to be had though in terms of taking the weight off when in the firing position. You can run the sling tight so the stock is pressed into your shoulder more, but with an injury you may still struggle. We don’t want you doing more harm than good. Whats the weight difference between the ARP9 and the mws?

We m14 Ebr i run replica ms4 and ms2 slings. Think I got them from patrol base. Very good quality. They’re essentially the same but the ms4 has QD ends and the ms2 has clips

Just weighted the Ebr. 15lbs against the 8 of the mws

They have! They’re a blessing and a curse. They’re amazing, but they’ve also made about £2000 worth of my airsoft guns wall hangers. The Ebr will shoot similar to the mws but it’s 3 times the weight. That DMR is pissing me right off though. I think my new hop parts have came today so I’ll fit them when I get in.

I can’t even begin to describe my regret when I got home. I’ll buy another one in the future. That noise is just something else.. Ebr has just gone too😭

I run both of mine on propane and the occasional nuprol 2.0 (because I’m cheap and I hate green gas). I don’t like ASG ultrair. I thought my experience was a one off, but Saturday I sold my scar H (to which I regret already) he couldn’t get a single mag with ASG ultrair, but emptied 3 and a bit with nuprol red. I think it’s the 10% butane that makes it crap. Probably good for a Tm pistol if you didn’t want to put a better green gas through it, but that’s all I’d use it in.

Okay... took the DMR out and it’s now getting the range (80m) but the shots are veering right at the very end. At first I thought it was the wind, which it still might be, but using the CASV with the modify bucking they were shooting absolutely straight every time at a max range of 70m. At 70m assuming it isn’t windy, your only real concern was elevation consistency. It was hard to tell exact impacts in terms of height because my live test dummy was busy for the day and finding the exact point a 6mm ball lands from that far away is rather difficult. I think the plan now is to buy another modify bucking and SixG super nub and see if the extra 50fps of the DMR will give me the extra 10m range over the CASV. If it works then the maple leaf is dead in the water.. if not, I’ll go back to the decepticon and shave the locking tab

*raids stationary*

I had a game at crossfire woods on Saturday and the DMR was being a dick with a sticking hop. The CASV with the modify tan bucking and SixG nub worked flawlessly. No horizontal deviation at all and great range with .36. I’m gonna try to do some range testing with the range finder tomorrow, but I would guess the range to be 70m. As for that damn DMR... the hop seemed to get stuck on and was just being an all round pain in the ass. I returned to the I key and standard hollow nub and it’s now shooting half right, but I’m not getting enough hop because the standard nub just collapses on itself. Gonna see if I can find a pin to stick in it and try again.

Two heavy gas mags so she’s pretty stable. Unlike the mws which was drunk so I gave up lol edit: the g36 is staying home as someone wants to buy something so I have to bring it with me.

Trying crossfire woods tomorrow and I don’t know what to bring. Trying to fit all this in 2 cases is proving to be difficult..

I figured thats what it might be, that’s why I asked. My GHK used to be a pain in the ass to seat right lol

@Davegolf it still has that thin grove molded into the bucking that locates on the bottom of the barrel, but I am cautious of rotation. In theory, it’s that tight in there it should be okay, but I’m gonna keep an eye on it to see if I get any BB’s veering off in one direction. Ive had great success with the colour coded ones, but didn’t like the black ML’s. They do need to be used with concave, long nubs to get the most out of them though. With the AEG version, the omega nub is fine because the contact patch isn’t so long, but the vsr type needs a long nub. In terms of fit and finish, the modify tan is the nicest bucking I’ve ever installed. They’ve always worked well, but vanished for a bit. They’re expensive for a bucking at £15 compared to the £9 of the ML, but I hadn’t seen one in so long it could have been £30 and I’d have bought it.

Right... Let the fun begin.. I've decided i was going to change both buckings at once. My current two setups are Maple leaf decepticon 60 bucking and prometheus bridge nub in my DMR, and a TNT T hop with a SixG super nub in my CASV. There was nothing inherently wrong with the T hop, but I've always loved the modify Tan buckings, and figured I'd change that along side the damaged decepticon bucking. Below is a picture of the new ML super rubber next to the damaged decepticon bucking. If you notice, the new bucking has a slightly different contact patch, but more notably it doesn't have the locking tab. The decepticon bucking works great, but because of how long the locking tab is, it can push the very tip of the contact patch into the barrel, damaging it when firing. The new rubber doesn't have this, so should negate the problem. If you are running the older version, an easy fix would be to take 1mm off both ends of the tab so the bucking isn't forced into the barrel. Quick side note: if you have any PTFE tape, wrap the barrel for a snug fit. Before: note the extended nub entrance After: Now for the CASV... The original setup with the T hop Little difficult to see, but the T hop is similar in design to the ML with a concave, extended contact area, whereas the modify tan is just the standard marui style mound. One thing i really like about the modify rubber is the way it sits onto the barrel. It has a very well molded lip that sits into the ring that's cut into the barrel, meaning it doesn't bulge in places. i expect it to have a very good air seal. Unlike the maple leaf, both the T hop and the modify tan bucking have thinner, shorter locking tabs, so they're not an issue. Range/accuracy results at the weekend, hopefully.

I’ll put the modify tan in first then, range test it and then swap out for the ML and see if there’s an improvement/ loss 👍 I may need to buy another one of those super nubs too

Found a flaw with running maple leaf buckings inside of my DMR. I was getting over 80m range with it originally and all of a sudden I couldn’t get the damn thing to hop a .3.. upon inspection, I found that the locking tab on the bucking that sits at the 3 o clock position pushes the contact surface of the bucking onto the front edge of the window, damaging it over time. To fix this ive ordered maple leaf’s new iteration of the decepticon, called the ‘super’. It’s very similar, but the key difference besides a slight change in contact area is the removal of the locking tab. As well as this I ordered the mythical unicorn bucking that always served me well a while ago.. the modify Tan. I will install tonight and get some pictures up if it would help/ serve as a guide.

As above, though the Molle is the way to go. It can’t be lit for 2 reasons. One because the striker is the lid, protecting the fuse, but also the friction ignition is actually a chemical reaction between what’s on the fuse/what’s on the striker (phosphorus I believe) +heat from friction. The only way I could possibly see you having an accidental bang would be perhaps if someone threw pyro at you, and it exploded on an uncapped pyro on your molle. I’d argue that you’d have a better chance of winning the lottery. Keeping a striker on string/zip tie on your molle is also a good idea, as well as a lighter. I use one of those rechargeable arc lighters. It can be absolutely pissing down and it will reliably light.