Ian_Gere

^^Which is a laudable project and i wish you all the best, but airsoft FAMAS's aren't known for reliability or for the kind of spare parts availability that you'd want in a project gun. I'm wondering if a Type 97 might not be a better starting place? At least you know it will be bomb proof...

5pcs Strong Neodymium Magnet Rectangle Magnets 25mm x 8mm x2mm N52 - £1.49 posted / just got some - i reckon that an N52 might be strong enough to hold the trigger in place just by the spring.

Depending on which motor brand you choose, it may increase your ROF a fraction, but generally high torque motors are more powerful for pulling heavier springs not faster. A high speed motor is what you want for higher ROF, but that may very well "break your gearbox" unless you upgrade the piston, shim the gears properly, and grease it thoroughly. You can use a high torque motor in combination with 13:1 gears to increase ROF though and a G&G plastic piston possibly would cope with that.

Bottledtorment was telling me he got a tactical soap kill at MCG The Gaol but the victim refused to take the hit because it wasn't a knife should have put it in a sock, he'd have taken that bastard!

No a high torque motor will not break your gearbox unless the reason you want one is to pull a much more powerful spring. Why do you want one? Cutting springs is not recommended. There are several reasons why, but in this thread it's enough to say that you can break stuff. You need to downgrade. I recommend an Element M105 from Bullseye Country Sport - it's a tenner posted and will give you about 345FPS, assuming a decent air seal and standard barrel.

I'm starting to wonder if they are under new management. They even volunteered to do a spring downgrade for free for me, before they had it in their webby! And they totally understood about the need for a visible UKARA number on the package. This was early this year.

^^I am surprised - i've spoken to them via email several times and had no problems.

Which does look pretty effective, but at €15.70 posted is a bit of a piss take IMO - I would cheerfully go a tenner, but on a V3 GB the ARL isn't as annoying as on V2 and, since I have the good sense and taste to have an arsenal free of M4's, they can fuck off...

Just watching "The Bombing of Darwin" recorded from History Channel - I want an Aussie AA Gunner loadout now perfect for the state of me!

Mate, if you get that clamp idea to work, please make sure to take pics of it and, if possible, how you use it, so we can all share in the breakthrough! BTW, I reckon that the workers who put it together will have a jig which hold everything in place.

YW - & tis as valid an excuse as any If you haven't covered it in science at school yet, you will touch on sound - basically anything which has a waveform, or periodicity/frequency, has a phase - which unlike in Star Trek just means how far along the cycle any given waveform is at a given point relative to the point at which it crosses the '0' line (since it is cyclical phase is described in degrees, so 0 degrees is where the amplitude of the waveform is 0 and the first 180 is a positive rise and fall back to 0 and then the next 180 is a negative fall and rise back to 0). So if you add waveforms together, for eg in a system like this where reflected sound bounces back to interfere with the original waveform, some frequencies can join together producing more on the + & - sides of the line (when they are within 90 degrees of being bang in phase), which increases amplitude at those frequencies, but what tends to happen is that the reflections are out of phase with the original in the shorter wavelengths, so if it adds some - to some +, or vice versa, the result is less amplitude at those frequencies, hence the upper frequencies are damped = it sounds duller. This is helpful in a number of ways psychoacoustically, but also, simply because of the distance between our ears, bass frequencies are more difficult to localise. Edit to add: but also the foam dividers physically block the progression of the compression wave and, since they are flexible absorb some of the energy in the expanding air by being bent. Although the bulk of the sound energy is in the lower frequencies and the foam, or indeed pretty much anything else you might put in there (including in a real steel suppressor), does almost fuck all to resist to resist the propagation of low freq. sound through it - there is a way to build a suppressor which would efficiently damp even low freq. sound but it is complex, requires proper metalworking tools, an anechoic chamber or a lot of trial and error, needs to be tuned for each gun, and is illegal in the UK.

They're actually surprisingly comfortable (with some gel insoles in 'em - yeah, i'm 'ard me)

Yeah, the AR Latch is a pain in the hole sometimes. I use a blob of additional grease to help hold that poxy spring stuck to it and the pivot peg into its hole in the left gb shell. It also helps if you set the bevel gear so that the AR latch is engaged into the ratchet on the bevel gear, rather than sitting against a ratchet tooth, because it is then under slightly less spring pressure and therefore less likely to pop out of its hole or push the bevel gear over. Only slightly though...

Seems i don't exist. Hey ho. Unfollowing...

I disagree that 30C is silly - a motor can draw 50+A for the few microseconds that it takes to get moving from stationary so having a battery which has excess capacity means that it will ramp up from 0V/0A to it's peak discharge rate faster than a lower C battery, which improves trigger response - I'm a big fan of Turnigy Nano Tech batteries which are 50/25C the former being the peak discharge rate and the latter the continuous discharge (full-auto fire or running a motor in an RC car for eg - continuously discharging).

The CYMA CM02 V3 gearbox is a beast - the problem is that it can handle anything you might throw at it voltage or spring wise because it is built with wide tolerances, which means that getting it back together can be a pain in the hole - as Dave says, parts seem to want to jump out. My procedure: if the motor connections are removable, remove the power cables from them; remove the motor in its cage by undoing the 2 screws which hold the cage locked to the gb shell; take a bent paper clip like this - ...and reach up through where the motor's pinion gear fits to hook the anti-reversal latch and pull / this will allow the gears to spin backwards which releases any tension in the main spring / you may have to hook it more than once, but it should end up being loose (doing this prevents damage to the gears when you open the shell); take off the plastic cover behind the trigger using a small flat head screwdriver to lever it; take off the top strap using a large flat head screwdriver to push it from the rear and then undo the screws; use the small screwdriver to lever the gb shell apart by a millimetre starting at the motor hole rear; when you can fit the screwdriver between the shell halves directly behind the main spring, push it all the way in; this then is your handle to hold the spring guide and main spring in place against the left side of the shell as you lever off the right side; with the right side shell removed, holding the left side and gubbins in one hand and the screwdriver in the other, lift the spring guide out allowing the main spring to extend carefully; unless it has been opened before there will be a fair amount of earwax looking grease / there is nothing wrong with this stuff other than that it's messy / unless you have some decent grease to replace it, resist the urge to clean it off (I recommend CT-2 Teflon grease); do whatever you're going to do inside; the CM02 gb is meant to be loose, but you don't lose anything by shimming it better than the factory spec / however after having done it several times i'm not convinced that you actually gain anything either, but hey ho it's good practice; put a good smear of grease on the piston head o-ring so that it evenly coats the interior of the cylinder; if you are replacing the air seal nozzle with one which has an o-ring, place a light smear of grease around the base of the cylinder head spout so that the nozzle o-ring gets greased but the grease doesn't get far forward enough to end up blasted as particulates down the barrel; set the spur gear with the tappet plate cam peg at approx 11 o'clock, so it is touching the tappet plate but not engaging its spring; the spring guide will compress the main spring enough to fit and jam in place with the little flat peg fitting into the left side shell, but once you do this you need to keep hold of the piston to prevent it pinging out; the problem with getting it all back together is that you have to simultaneously hold the piston, keep the anti-reversal latch spring from toppling the bevel gear and keep the trigger in place, whilst you manipulate the gb shell to get it together with the 3 gear bushes/bearings into their holes - i suspect that everyone has their own knack of doing this but after the amount of times i've tried and failed, then had to reset the gears and try again, i've given it up; now i just keep track of the piston and bevel gear as i close the shell without the trigger - fit the top strap back in place; use blobs of grease to help hold the trigger spring and trigger rocker to the trigger; take hold of the gearbox in left hand with the bottom cracked open about 1.5mm (so that the bevel gear is just still held in place) and trigger in right (or vice versa) and fit the trigger spring end into the tiny retaining hole in the left hand side of the gb shell; next you push the trigger so that the left side pegs that the trigger pivots on and the rocker slides on go into their holes in the left side of the shell then rock the trigger upwards towards you forcing the right side pegs to fit inside the gb shell as it opens further - the knack here is to only allow the shell to open as much as is absolutely necessary so that, as soon as the pegs pop into their right side holes the gb snaps shut; unfortunately it is often not quite as simple as that sounds ( ) because the gear bushes/bearings often shift during the process so that the shell does not snap shut - if you keep a tight hold of it though, so that nothing shifts any further, you can poke the gears back into position either with a cocktail stick on the outside or, if you can find a thin piece of steel like that which comes out of replacement windscreen wipers to make a tool like this - ...from the inside by poking it between the halves of the shell - while you fiddle with the gears, the trigger mech pegs may come out / just make sure that the left hand side ones do not or the trigger spring, because in that case you will have to take the trigger out and start again / with a bit of practice you can get spur gear bushing/bearing just into its hole with the trigger correctly seated even though the bevel gear bushing/bearing is not quite in and then it's just a case of poking that into place / the main knack is keeping a firm hold on the halves so that the gubbins don't slip any more than is absolutely necessary; refit the screws being careful not to overtighten them or you will knacker the threads they screw into; do not be tempted to leave the plastic cover off - it isn't necessary for function but it keeps dirt out of the box / it's there so that you can put grease/oil on the gears without opening the shell; refit the motor and hey presto!

They look pretty good for ventilation too - if they have the same anti-fog properties as the Cobras, the extra ventilation might actually stop the liquid build up that the Cobras suffer from. Let us know how you get on with them, please. How much did they cost and from where? That's "bad" in the Michael Jackson sense of the word, right? As in full circle...

MultiQuote is not working for me, so I'm just going to leave it to your imagination as to whom I'm replying: There are 2 guns badged "Amoeba" on gunfire.pl AM-009 & AM-013 - i noticed them the other day but didn't really bother because they're AR's = not my ting at all. They do not say Ares, but elsewhere you can find the exact same model numbers on guns which look identical badged Ares, so I dunno, but I suspect they are the same gun. In which case, having an Ares L1A1 which looks great but is a pile of wank inside, I would be hesitant over buying another... but wtf do I know? UTJ did indeed say that new CYMA models (048 and higher) are using LCT bodies, but as far as i know this is not strictly correct. They are the same design, and both made from pressed steel, but they are not manufactured on the same assembly line. Personally I've sent 1 LCT back because, although externally it was great, internally it was so shit that I just didn't even want to think about what it would cost to bring it up to the spec i expect from my guns. But it was an economy model from fire-support so i believe it was a body kit assembled into a gun with any old random internals they had lying around, not necessarily LCT parts. That said, I have never read anyone saying "OMG my LCT gnu shoot so gd! I totally owned my buddy he CYMA hahaha" and nobody ever accuses VFC of being excellent shooters out of the box either. They are famous for very good externals. But people do say "OMG my CYMA AK shoot so far! He like a laser!" And also, of the lower numbered CYMA's, which are TM clones, that they are better shooters than the original TM guns from which they were copied. That last I can say for sure is true - I have tried a few TM AK's and I have one with an Inokatsu body kit (which I had to sort out because it was not shooting up to my standards - as it happens it is still in pieces because, in the meantime, I needed a gearbox for my tactical AK so used the modified TM one I had handy) and have 2 CYMA AK's also. The TM clone CYMA's externals are not as good as the TM originals though and the furniture of the VFC clones (048 and above) is not as good as the original, but for the price you are getting a lot more bang for your buck - the CYMA CM02 V3 gearbox is bomb proof and can handle 11.1V LiPos without modification; both the plastic and metal hop units work very well; the hop rubbers are of a superior design with a split bump, which improves accuracy, but the quality control of these rubbers is not great so some of them are not perfectly moulded - that said, the retailer should replace that hop rubber with a perfect one if that proves to be the case. But people do insist that if something costs more money it is better. Cristal is better than Lanson, right? Nike Airs are better than Hi Tec Hexalites, right? A 911 Turbo was/is better than an Astra GTE, right? Try them yourself... What you need to consider is what your budget allows and what your expectations are. That's not to say that a Bently isn't better than a Beamer, mind you, but then again the Bently is hand built by craftsmen - you could buy a VFC or a CYMA and I would still pwn you with £80's worth of tat put together from my bits box held together with gaffer tape. If you can afford it, buy VFC or LCT and upgrade the internals. If you can't, buy CYMA (048+) and be prepared to check that the hop rubber is good and maybe replace the furniture. Out of the box, the CYMA will almost certainly be the better shooter.

A 51mm mortar case from our own dear Jamesronald - why? I dunno. I'm thinking I may keep my mags in it, or spray paint at one end and gun parts which dont fit in my other bits boxes in the rest... But it looks sooooo

No, they're not all the same. The pistol grips of some of them feel a bit cheap, but not the ergonomic one, and the zamak alloy bodied ones don't look as good as the steel when they get weathered. The plastic bodied ones look fine, but you need to limit the amount of times you disassemble them for whatever reason because the holes which some of the screws go into get ruined. The wood is personal taste - the actual quality of it is good, but the colour isn't to everyone's taste (not mine for eg - i refinished my CM.048 furniture). G&G combat machine AK's are pretty good and the their M4's have a good reputation too, but i don't know the GC16 mod0.

The only part of that CYMA model you may be disappointed with is the mag. The pistol grip is good solid polymer as is the RIS handguards and the stock (although there is a fair bit of space inside those stocks so they sound hollow when you knock them - but if you wrap the battery in a layer of that thin white foam used for packing stuff to post, you can jam the battery into the centre of it and muffle the hollow sound). The steel is great - it's alkali blacked just like many real steel guns. Oops: I dunno about the other gun you mentioned, so i can't give an opinion.

Was it [a] plug'n'play MOSFET/s? Because they are fine for burst control but do not avoid the main power running through the switch, so you don't get the benefit of avoiding the high resistance the switch introduces. Also, if the wiring is the standard 20AWG it's resistance is a major factor in the initial moments when power flows to the motor - in those 1st microseconds the motor can draw a massive amount of power (i've read that some can draw upwards of 50 Amps momentarily), if the circuit can provide it, because it has to overcome its own inertia to get moving, not just the spring load. This is where LiPo's can really shine, because their output ramps up from 0V/0A to whatever their peak output is much faster than NiMh's, so by swapping the higher resistance parts of the circuit for low res solutions you get a double whammy of improvement. Yeah, I know what you mean about leading the target, but if your 3 rounds follow close behind each other, then if 1 misses the others may very well also, but with a slower ROF if one misses the next may hit. So if you're trying to lead a running target with high ROF 3rnd bursts, you need to jerk the muzzle of you want to get a decent spread between your BB's... which feels wrong to me when i do it

TBH, unless you have metalwork training and the right tools for the job, don't do it. You'll only end up with screwed accuracy and having to buy a new one. If you just buy a new one, you might be able to get something for the old one.

A1) unless it's a night game, people do it just to look ally, because serving soldiers often carry them just in case their 5hr patrol turns into a 3 day Blackhawk Down stylee an ting... A2) 4x ACOG i think

Welcome to the forums! Please do tell us how you get on at The Asylum - F&O have a mixed reputation so it will be helpful to get the perspective of someone who does not have any prejudices.