TheFull9

Ah, I read it as "this, then this over the top"; that makes more sense. I'm the same, when I see people with 2 or more layers under a PC in the height of the July heat I really find it strange. I've seen smocks, hoodies, beanie hats, you name it and I'm there sweating buckets in just a thin combat shirt. I get that some people just want the look or their bodies just run colder, but when you see loads of them at a game it's hard to imagine that absolutely all of them are the same in that respect.

The yanks issue something called PCU to their SF, it's a lot better than PCS overall, though since the transition from CS95 we have improved slightly; google up the poster explaining it and read some good reviews on different PCU level items and you'll learn a ton about the optimal apparel for inclement conditions. I find it particularly useful to pay attention to the specific fabrics used in the different garments, then you can read the product descriptions on other apparel items and see if they'll have the properties you're looking for. The primary thing people don't realise however is that a good cold weather clothing system does not include conventional camo clothes at all. Poly/cotton or nylon/cotton are what's used in almost all the uniforms we mostly wear, but "cotton is rotten" (phrase I think of a lot lately) and is to be avoided as far as operating in cold, rain, wind and show. It's very cold to the touch when wet, whereas certain wools and 100% nylon and a few other technical fabrics don't suffer that issue. On top of that, cotton is incredibly slow to dry compared to good softshell, and speed of drying is probably one of the number one characteristics to look for in bad-weather gear. It's extremely hard to stop yourself ever getting wet, be it from rain or snow outside or your sweat from the inside; so drying out when you can is the key. Essentially, what you do in inclement conditions is swap your normal camo for Level 5 (softshell) jacket and trousers (again, nothing fleece lined), maintaining an appropriate base layering underneath it. The key attribute to look for is breathability so that your sweat will wick away through the layers; along with wind and water resistance. But absolutely never believe any manufacturers product description at face value. They'll throw around claims about stuff being 'waterproof' which are total and utter lies resulting from the technical definition of waterproof being incredibly loose and easy to meet. The links jedi posted are really good, combining some reading on mountaineering layering with military stuff will lead to a sound understanding of what constitutes a good piece of apparel within a system that can keep you comfortable in the widest range of conditions possible. Personally, I never wear a T under a combat shirt because, as popular as that's become, it's not the way it's meant to be done for various reasons. T-shirt under a conventional camo shirt makes sense in certain situations when not running a vest or armour, but the whole idea of the lighter fabric on the torso of a combat shirt is to allow wearing it next to skin. Don't get me wrong though I'm just using this example to raise a point, if you find it comfortable then I'd never tell you how to run your own gear, everyone has their own experiences and reasons for doing things.

If you're ever in doubt (heck even if not) you just bring a few layers, then you'll be able to dress up or down for whatever you encounter. PCs keep in tons of heat, any sort of rig that has a lot of coverage and isn't made of mesh will do that. If you can get a light softshell (don't go insulated, that ruins the entire layering concept) that'll block wind (the biggest chill factor usually) and some rain. Then just pack some sort of hoodie/jumper/fleece for insulation and maybe a rain coat if you've got a drab coloured one and intend to carry on playing even if it's raining hard outdoors. Then everything's covered. If you've got some sort of thin thermal layer or any other surplus apparel then obviously that can go in to the mix; issued stuff is pretty good, comes in drab colours and goes cheap on ebay. Great way to pick up some base/mid level insulation items that are suited for the task but won't cost a lot.

If the organiser can't even get back to you with answers on questions this basic... well personally I wouldn't be giving them my money. The milsim I went to, I asked the company putting it on a lot of the exact same things you've asked here and they got back to me very quickly with detailed answers. You're paying out a fair bit of cash to go to an event like this and bringing the right stuff is vital, lest you end up bringing either a load of gear that's physically impossible to carry around, or are woefully under-prepared at the other end of the scale.

That's the model ICS supply with their guns. No RS equivalent AFAIK.

I've definitely seen lots of those at sites, especially so indoor games. If they're well made, then it makes sense really. 100% cotton isn't an ideal fabric for airsoft use, but for £9.. well if they work and last there's no real arguing with that. Personally, my experience over the years has been that one of the biggest reasons people end up buying the wrong gear/stuff that doesn't work out for them, is that they don't ask the right questions to begin with. Not to mention the classic "hey guys, I just bought X, is it any good?". So yes while obviously I could figure out the meaning, I think encouraging people to ask the right things to begin with is important. I also tend to think that people being too lazy to just type out a proper query don't deserve to be spoon fed information in return; but hey I'm sure somebody will take the opportunity to jump on me for being an awful person for holding that opinion at some point or another.

Ok, and what are they? I mean I could guess but I'd rather find out for certain so nobody wastes their time giving information that's not relevant.

Is that a combination of 2 questions?

I feel like I missed a release... do you have a link?

Nothing against you personally Bt.

They sure know how to market something, I'll give 'em that...

That's why I focused on the cost of the machine, not the time taken. I can't say I know anything much at all about mill work but it seems like the sort of thing you need some training and experience to really do well, so again, that's worth money. -- Value of the end piece obviously rather hinges on which brand the grenade itself is and the ad doesn't say, but either way I don't see the price asked as a total dream. To me, certainly doesn't seem anything like the same league as the idiots charging hundreds of pounds for a 2-tone ACM spring Bolt-action that they've added a £12 scope on to.

Gotta get dem youtube views doe. He says.. haha Do you have any evidence regards the above? I'm not taking sides or accusing you, but life has always shown me there's 2 sides to every story. I spent a fair amount of time with him at the milsim I did last year and he seemed just fine, but I'm not going to pass a judgement one way or the other from one game.

That actually looks fairly neatly done, and machine work like that isn't something just anybody can do with a hacksaw at home, the equipment can cost a bloody fortune. Doesn't look like normal airsoft pot metal either since it's not dull, crumbly and the metal full of air bubbles.

You playing woodland or CQB? Question answered real easily on that one. If answer is both - go shorter barrel; accuracy difference will be fook all. And if at all possible, give your money to a store run by half decent people. Pro Airsoft Supplies, Land Warrior and Airsoft Zone are generally good - Zero One are a (as demonstrated with solid evidence by myself any many others over the years) bunch of scumbag criminals who love scamming airsofters.

If you personally really want to do that then obviously it's your gun, but it makes no practical sense and to be honest, even aesthetically it's illogical because the 9mm MP5 is literally the worst candidate for a bi-pod there is. It's a close quarters usage weapon, stick to a red dot and a light. Bi-Pods, short mags and magnified optics only make sense on weapons firing rifle rounds, generally 5.45mm (AK-74) or above; preferably 5.56x45mm or 7.62x51mm replicas if you want an an actually authentic look. Believe me I went there at the start stick a bi-pod on my first AEG, so have plenty of other guys. I ended up chucking the thing after 1 game and there are plenty of other people who've done the exact same thing. If you can, try and hike that drop-leg holster strap as high up as it'll possibly go. Every site has at least a couple of very new players every game with their Viper drop-knee holsters flapping around like a fish out of water, you don't wanna be that guy, it's just uncomfortable and slows you down.

Just as an FYI, the current production mags from PTS are nothing to do with Magpul designs as things currently stand. Magpul actually pulled their license as far as any replicas of mags/accessories go a couple of years back now. Luckily though PTS are still using the same plastic (tougher than some RS stuff) and similar internals to their old E/PMAG line, so as far as midcaps go I've personally yet to find anything that gets close quality wise.

Can the paddle mount be removed from your fobus? http://www.tactical-kit.co.uk/fobus-molle-adaptor-platform-for-roto-holster-10661-p.asp

Is it any good? That seems awfully cheap for a set with that many pieces. Then again most airsoft metal is cheese anyway so perhaps it makes more sense than one might first imagine.

Winter comes around every year, never a bad thing to invest in kit for adverse conditions. Hot weather is easy (comparatively), you only need one layer. If you want to be as comfortable as possible in whatever sorts of inclement weather you might encounter, you need a lot more stuff and it'll cost a lot more to get a full system together.

I always strongly advise separating your insulation layer from your softshell; that's the way any serious outdoor/military professional does it and for many good reasons. I think in the long term you'd probably end up buying twice with Highlander; going just a little bit more to at least get a Helikon ought to yield quite significant jump in quality (though obviously both are at the budget end). Bear in mind plate carrier are just about the 'best' insulating layer ever (well, not in terms of moisture transport but pretty much in terms of heat retention) so if you put too much underneath your rig you'll boil yourself once you start really running around. Check eBay for some surplus fleeces and cold weather base layers, they're pretty decently made overall, especially the new stuff and you get infinitely more value for money with issue kit than you do with an awful lot of apparel from places like Mil1st and other airsoft-grade gear stores.

Real awesome project mate, great work. Will be a sweet (and unique) piece all around when it's done for sure.

There's a very small number of companies that have made a very small selection of their product lines in female specific fits, but you're talking tiny numbers compared to male/generic fit uniforms. Overall, I'm fairly certain that an ACU style ATACS-FG set in a female cut does not exist. I'm pretty sure Sacarathe is right and that MASSIF has done some female-specific stuff, but I've never seen anything from them in any ATACS. I've definitely seen some 5.11 stuff for females, possibly Tru-Spec/Propper too but it;s not something I've really looked in to; the proportion of women in the military/LE (and airsoft is probably even worse off in that regard) just doesn't work financially in terms of apparel manufacturers designing and producing kit for women. If you specifically want ATACS-FG it's just gonna be a case of taking time with measurements to get the closest thing possible. If you search for female/women's cut on eBay you might get a few results in UCP, Multicam and (primarily) plain colours. Again 5.11 would be the brand that I've seen the most of in terms of female specific tactical apparel.

There'll be some lead in there I'm sure.

Well.. that's really not difficult.