pyromancer6

I know! I keep looking at it and going 'corrrr!!!' but then I remember it doesn't work and I get upset I'll message 18airsoft and see what can be done, maybe it's happened in transit as it does have a chrono chart alongside

Alright, they finally came [after a lot of expense and fucking around, sodding UPS]: (Pictured, WE G18c, E&C G18c and E&C SAI G34) We'll start from the top, so - for starters: Externals are absolutely lovely with full trades - they're based on Gen 2 frames so have the smaller mag release but both have the extended slide release which is neato, although - there's one SLIGHT problem. The G34 came non-functional out of the box. The valve knocker isn't connected and it doesn't fire, and the G18c seems to work somewhat okay. Both accepted my WE mags but seeing as I've ran pretty dry on gas it's hard to tell if it functions as well as my WE. I'm absolutely gutted that the G34 doesn't work, considering how fantastic it looks. I'll get it apart at some point once the grief subsides and hopefully it can shoot as well as it looks. Still, be wary - I could've just gotten a lemon but I'm not about to jump through all those hoops to get it sent back (or maybe I will, I am genuinely so upset that it doesn't work as I intended to swap my WE parts over to use it this coming weekend)

Currently have a SAI branded G34 and a G18C stuck in customs-hell but I'll post them here when they arrive and show how they are in person, fingers-crossed they're good [and have the trades!]

Little update, ordered this spring guide in particular and it's went in perfectly fine and fits lovely - also ordered an XT M110 [or a pair of them actually] as the M100 was about 0.9J and the M120 I had was about 1.3J - now we're in the goldilocks power range lobbing a 0.28g pretty decently far. I think I know what's happened to the safety, there's normally a little metal piece that sits in the fire selector to block the trigger on safe that I completely forgot about and seeing as I've decided to do inebriated tech work on this thing multiple times at this point fuck-knows where it could be so I'll have to have a little looksie and if I end up finding it this thing'll be pretty much solved, excluding the heat ofc but that just needs a rewire as the wires are about 10+ years old and it's also using a tamiya to deans connector anyway. Nice to see things working, will be sure to update when something inevitably goes wrong again!

Tried in the past to fit a QD delta armouries V2 into it but no dice for whatever strange reason - maybe an E&C will fair a little better in the future. I've found a QD spring guide that looks to fit from bullseye, so that's been ordered and after testing power after the fresh rebuild #383 (adding the compression parts) power's jumped all the way up from about 0.83J to around 1.3J with the hop set - I'll be downgrading the spring to a M110 or M100 when the new guide arrives to save me taking it out of the receiver twice (as it's from the era where QD was just the gearbox, not true QD) It's a shame about not being able to replace the cut-off with a new one as I'm pretty sure the switch assembly in this particular gearbox uses it as a blocker for the trigger rather than having it be by the trigger like your typical mechanical safety ala CYMA or similar, and considering it's meant to be a 'backup' or loaner gun I'm not too keen on jumping straight into a fresh gearbox w/ a perun just yet because at that point it gets into ship of theseus territory and I've got a few other unfinshed projects I'd rather plop the Perun I already have lined up into when time and money permits [need a dremel]

I inheriated an ASG M15A4, aka a Classic Army [if I'm not mistaken] M4 replica at the start of the year as payment for fixing an otherwise dead CYMA CAR-15, getting it back to funcuatal with a fresh ZEUS mosfet and an incredibly shitty solder job - besides the point: I've got an old ass ASG M15A4 with a host of problems, and I hope to fix some of them in this thread and ask for some input as google is useless as always and information on these admittedly pretty old by now pews is annoying to come by. First off - the spring guide has suffered and one of the prongs has snapped off: I tried a SHS V2 replacement from ak2m4 and as you can see It doesn't fit whatsoever, probably because it's for a non QD gearbox and I have terrible reading skills - any reccomendations for one that might be the correct shape? Secondly - I lost my safety and I'm assuming it's damage to the cut-off lever because I can feel a sharp point on it where something's sheared off but standard V2 cut-off levers don't fit this particular gearbox/trigger assembly type - anybody know for starters what I have here and secondly where I can source a replacement? A third thing is that the battery and wires get particularly hot on firing and I'm assuming it's because of the terrible amalgamation of connectors I'm using - any pointers on what would be a suitable replacement outside of just cutting the tamiya-connector and replacing it with a straight deans one? You can see the little space QD connectors that are required to get the wires through the front look particularly nasty. I've changed out the 20A glass fuse and it still does it to rule that off. It's got a set of 13:1s, XT bearings, XT fan motor, XT compression set and a M120 to try and get it up to power, alongside a XT 380mm 6.00 barrel, ZCI plastic rotary and either a ML super macaron or a 4QUAD rubber. Any pointers would be awesome - it seems to 'work' but I'd like to fix issues prematurely rather than let the gun explode itself like last time:

Very strange - my CYMA platinum CAR-15 did this in the past and so did my SR-25 and I'm more than sure I've seen people in milsim videos [yes, grain of salt ofc, airsoft youtube not exactly notorious for being the more intellectual side of the sport] have the exact same issue as described above - as they weren't firing very often for strings over 30 minutes hence the battery cutoff. Could've been an update they did to the later zeus mosfets after too many people kept leaving their batteries inside and turning them into thermite charges?

Pretty sure this is a thing with the standard CYMA 'zeus' mosfet they use - it's a battery protection feature to stop people leaving their batteries plugged in in storage or whatever swelling and claiming LiPo batteries/causing risks of the battery exploding - it's unfortunately just a caveat with the mosfet system and there's no way around it rather than keeping the gun active by occassionally firing or having the buttpad/battery connection exposed to disconnect and reconnect the battery when it does go dead If the Platinum is a eshooter it'll be a basic version where you also can't turn off the protection so you're kinda shit out of luck - either install a Perun or just shoot more often unfortunately lol

Can second Pete and AK2M4 - lovely fella and he offers a great service + he's always trying new stuff and experimenting with stuff before they're sold on the site instead of just throwing stuff on there like most other retailers do

Finally caved and bought a Autobot speed loader, much easier for pews that don't have M4 mag privledge and require funky 3D printed adapters to load from. The 600 mAH 11.1v BZ reccomends fits [barely] but I feel it's a little too much juice as it's very easy to have the sheer torque push the mag out and spill ammo everywhere, and with certain mags - namely the PTS EPM-Gs for G36 - I fear that it might be denting the rounds as it's putting a lot of pressure on them and it'd very much suck to have the lovely G36 Neg put together for me knacker itself due to a jam on it's first outing (still waiting on a few last minute details to be added to it before it's sent out)

That new rio punch one is class but the aspiring airsofter drinks dragon soop on the gameday

Pretty much my parts list for my own DE UTR project - I was just waiting on finally pulling the trigger on a dremel but seeing as you can just hand-file the screw post away from your posts I might try and tackle it this weekend, we'll see Brushless is a real gamechanger - they run so much cooler than normal motors and it means you can drop down to a 7.4v without losing much in the way of speed or response which really helps with your temperature, and you can just use the Perun's ROF reduction if you want to keep running 11.1v instead if you think it's going a bit too quick for your liking. I ran one of the XT vented-motors (22 TPA) with my UTR when it still had the falcon fire and the standard DE gears and it made a serious difference if you think brushless is a little too pricey or scary to think about lol