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Davegolf

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Everything posted by Davegolf

  1. You could cut it off square so it has a flat end, cut some rubber discs same diameter as the buffer tube ID or something that add upto the length that is missing from the the Buffer part B, so the buffer spring holds them in place. That way if you do want to keep using it the buffer wont be over travelling.
  2. Hi, the Modify Polymer buffer will be fine, its jsut all the heavy metal roller wierd ones you wnat to avoid.
  3. @Hypokondrikern just fire the gun off so it is not stored ‘cocked’ then all the springs will be released. @TadsJ2 that broken part is called ‘buffer part B’, get a new one, keep the TM buffer but run a HSB spacer with it and this will not happen again. The TM Buffer is the most gas efficient and fastest cycling, as well as not damaging the buffer tube.
  4. @Hypokondrikern If you’ve run the gun hard for 2 years that trigger set definitely needs some loving! The while gun should be well work hardened by now, and would greatly benefit from a ‘trim’ up ?
  5. Selfie so we know it’s actually yours ?
  6. I like the gun oil as it washes dirt out but on the flip side will attract light dust. So on that basis depending on how dirty a day you’ve had ? flush it out at then of the day or remove it/clean/reinstall. Same goes for all cleaning, depends how shitty you get the gun You know if you drop a mag business end in the dirt then your an idiot if you stuff it in the gun ?
  7. Have a good look for burrs or marring over on edges of the trigger parts
  8. Just loctite permanent parts, GBBs are basically vibrators ?
  9. Can we stay in FPS pls ?
  10. Welcome! Dont 100% quote me on this, I’m sure other MK18 owners will be able to confirm/deny as I have not had one in my hands yet... Theoretically you could replace the barrel nut and whole rail system with any other MWS compatible aftermarket rail. But you have already got it so i would just buy the proper tool, and maybe get the rail Cerakote’d in Midnight Bronze ?
  11. Prommy purple was for AEGs. The TM MWS original bucking https://eagle6.co.uk/shop/catalog/product/view/id/2612/s/tokyo-marui-m4a1-mws-hop-unit-hop-rubber-for-m4-gbbr-series/
  12. Hi! Yes as of this time, I have not come across a holistically good bucking that can outperform AND outlast the original TM bucking. You’re right on there, in a GBB your dealing with expanding volumes, temperature and pressure changes. In an AEG, as long as that motor pulls your stored energy (spring) back you’re getting a repeatable output.
  13. Yes power tuning is all in the floating valve for the most part, the rest is efficiency/air tightness
  14. Is the piston seal lubed or dryed out?
  15. 480mm
  16. Interesting, I just chrono’d a customer CQBR, 250mm 6.03, Modify tan, Super Nub, HSB, stock valve, otherwise stock, freshly serviced ? With Abbey Vertex @ similar temperature; 360 FPS
  17. @RMDavis Old Skool Kool
  18. Pretty much all Angry Gun parts only succeed at making people angry about their guns ?
  19. Still a retarded design by TM
  20. TM NGRS gear specifically are made of cheese, you’ll end up with a round last sector tooth before long with an M95
  21. Yes TechT on all your magazine O rings, and the piston lid seal. Gun oil on trigger set, and BCG to receiver PS you can generally wipe down the externals and clean all non rubber/silicone parts with the gun oil too. It serves as a cleaning agent, anti corrosion and lube all in one.
  22. Genuine armourer wrench, not some cheesium one. Spare nozzle Spare nozzle return springs TechT GunSav Parker gun oil Mini screwdriver and pick set Long Allen keys upto 5mm (non of that ball hex crap )
  23. Regardless of the temperature for efficiency and consistency you want to be using the smallest amount of gas possible to propel the BB at your desired FPS and reliably cycle the system ready for the next shot. What does this come down to? Air seals, Friction and Weight of dynamic parts, Work effort and Stability of materials in different temperatures. Air seals; Gas tight mag obv. Healthy gas route seal in mag. Mating fully with nozzle entry. Nozzle fully sealed in bucking. Air tight bucking. Floating valve closing fast and sealing. Piston lid seal that reacts fast, but doesn’t drag. BCG turning off the gas knocker, properly in time - not too early or late. Friction - freely moving, minimal contact, not side loading; Floating valve. Nozzle. Bolt. Buffer. Buffer spring. Weight of dynamic parts; Lightest nozzle, bolt, buffer. Work effort; A bucking that is too tight will hold the nozzle firmly requiring more effort to pull it out. A nozzle that isn’t free in the bolt or BBU will do the same. A piston lid seal that is too big or binding will also increase effort. A bolt that is poorly made will side load the receiver or buffer tube @Wild Weasel. Increased weight of dynamic parts. Stronger buffer springs. Materials like nylon etc have massive dimensional changes for small temperature changes, materials like these are best avoided. As a general rule all parts ‘flowing’ gas should be of high quality plastics to maintain the intended dimensions and best resist the effects of icing. Pretty much everything above could be broken down further. The short fix is the stock TM design is very good. Non of the buffer parts need to be ‘upgraded’, the buffer is very light in TM plastic, and the spring is suitable for all UK assault FPS (300-350). Yes fit a lightweight CNC bolt, the UAC ones are a nice fit. The stock nozzle and piston lid seal are fine, as is the stock bucking (within reason). Yes fit an NPAS or similar, plastic please, mod the TM one ideally. PS sorry you didn’t get around to actually doing your testing!
  24. Morning @Wild Weasel! Sounds good, getting out and playing!
  25. I take it you meant *without the O rings. All TMs run vented input valves. Do not use O rings, as described above it allows useless air and non liquid Co2 to exit the mag and allow consistently even refills. The function of the tube attached to the full valve (which people remove or shorten to ‘green gas mod’) essentially is a fill level device. The extra space left by that tube is there to allow the liquid Co2 to expand into the gas which you fire with. If you make that space smaller (by doing the green gas mod) yes you fit more liquid Co2 in, but at the expenses of shot FPS consistency. Consistency is everything.
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