Leo Greer

Krytac has been known to recommend underpowered packs due to overspin on 11.1v in some parts of the world, rather than fixing the issue.

TSGs. Wow. Stating terms for something that probably ten techs in the world have a working version of.

Have you checked your motor brushes? It's super simple to do basic disassembly on the motor end bell to determine if it is indeed the issue.

Basically just get inside and see what's broken, burnt, or messed up. 🙂 I was speaking with Jakub from Perun and he told me that the connectors commonly used for airsoft motors were never intended to be bent, hence why they break so often. Too bad bullet plug mods are a pain...

He's spreading: https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/threads/newbie.67689/#post-455529

Cybergun is pretty much hot garbage. There's a reason they litter the American eBay pages. I know people who've had serious issues with the "Ultra Grade" models, but supposedly they started making those for Evike, and the older lines are way better. I've never gotten my hands on one of their gearboxes, but I use their parts when I have them, so I can vouch that the components in their more premium lines are very solid.

Spambot logic: Glue sniffers = oxycodone and heroin sniffers.

To be fair, Airsoft Mike literally just reads the retailer's descriptions while showing himself groping the RIF in a tactical jumpsuit. So...

You can definitely find some views. I post videos of my builds for almost the sole purpose of sharing with others and posting on forums, and recently had a video get 1,200 views for no reason. I also see shorts getting views a lot more and a lot more quickly than full-length or mid-length videos. People want it fast nowadays!

In my experience King Arms is pretty solid, but not all of their guns have the same high quality gearbox internals. Some come with modernized insides--inline MOSFETs, steel rack pistons, neodymium magnet motors... but it's not all of them.

In order to get good analytical answers, I would first share what you already know, and what you're already planning to put in this video. I have to admit it does sound a little weird that you're putting yourself as an expert opinion in your video (or so it sounds), and turning around here to ask what everyone wished they knew. If we don't know you, we can't know what you're aware of, so we can't give you good answers. Since most people who show up to airsoft forums are complete noobs, the veteran members made a natural assumption. If you do end up needing to "give me information" threads, it's best to couch the question. For example, if I were asking this question, I would read the first few pages of posts in some of the categories, and then find some items to discuss. And then once you've started a discussion, you can ask things like "Is it true that G&G sux bahwluks?" and people will probably answer.

So you're a sniper, not a DMR?

Take that grip off, if ya haven't already. Look through the mag well and see if the bolt catch interacts with the gearbox shell. Turn the selector to safe and tilt the gearbox forward while wiggling gently. Good luck!

You have two areas of improvement, one of which is vastly more important than the other. First, improve your target recognition, shot tracking, positioning, etc. Shot tracking will get better as you get to know how the replica shoots--without sun to see the BB you have to rely on knowing where it's supposed to be, the sound it makes when it hits the environment or players, and even look for physical disturbances, like rustled leaves or shirts. You should also be very familiar with your effective range to make sure your shots aren't simply falling short of target. If you wanted to be analytical about it, you could easily use google maps to create an overlay of your field and notate some distances to let you know what your range is from certain positions. Positioning is huge for DMR players, but that's pretty self-explanatory. You should know what your optimum positions are on the fields that you play at, where fire will come from, what points you can move up to and back from, etc, how to manipulate angles on different pieces of cover. The second much less important area of improvement is your replica itself. Doing stabilization mods, using higher quality, heavier ammunition, changing your hop rubber and nub, or even polishing your barrel are easy ways to improve effective range. Improve yourself before your replica!

Of course--that's why ported piston heads are a thing. In fact at low RPS you can get away with a non-ported piston head, like the original TM design, as the piston is able to pull air in through the nozzle with no issue. At higher RPS non-ported causes extra drag. Part of the advantage of porting is that when the piston has room to accelerate before achieving airseal with the cylinder, which increases efficiency a lot. This is similar to using higher pressure in HPA rather than a larger air volume. It's silly because there's no point to it--why not just have a full cylinder, or whatever cylinder is correct for the BB weight and barrel length? For example, on an MP5K or G&G ARP9 with a 150mm barrel, a 50% cylinder is about right for even heavy BBs (.32g+), and using a larger cylinder would just make it louder, have PME earlier, and require a change of a part. Luke's logic dictates that the port should instead sit behind the piston head at all times... which is the same as a full cylinder.

I spend about half my airsoft time at the field, but mostly I play on eight acres of woods with my "team" (friends). If you have enough buddies and enough space it's the best of all worlds: great players, create your own rulesets and game modes, and no worries about costs or insurance. The biggest trouble is finding a place where its legal, or property owned by an acquaintance.

Those who get too big for their britches will all be exposed in the end.

An inline MOSFET fixes it (not one of the plug and play ones). The issue being that it needs to be wired into the switch located inside the gearbox.

It will damage the gun over time, same as any other battery. An 11.1v will just do it faster. If you want the gun to sound nicer and shoot faster, but burn out your microswitch faster, run the 11.1v. If you want a little more durability, go for a 7.4v LiPo. LiPos are far superior to Nimh. As Colin notes, though, those kinds of unprotected microswitches are really just bad design and are being run above their failure threshold, which makes them susceptible to early failure on any battery.

The trick is to not buy the low durometer silicone packings. Since silicone is so much grippier than rubber, the 85 degree has none of these issues while retaining all of the grip and all of the durability. Maybe the 50-60 degree is crap, but the 80-85 sure isn't.

It's so beautiful. 😭😍

I figured. In the USA, you are allowed to waive your right to sue. People still will try, and it's a hassle for the site, but there's no legal grounds, and most sites nowadays should be under LLCs anyways. Had a guy just recently get a BB stuck underneath his tongue. I don't get why people think wearing only glasses is cool...

Glad this thread is going in interesting directions...

I meant to emphasize how high the ratings could be, not how low. 😁 For example, the gun will be fine on a 7.4v 10,000 mah 100C brick. Of course capacity matters--I'm not a complete idiot. 😉

That setup is a recipe for serious issues without good teching and modification to go along. First off, unless short-stroking and a heavy spring is involved, that setup IS getting heavy PME on auto, as well as tappet PME being likely. If he can't explain the mods he did and show the RPS/consistent FPS on a chronograph, he's lying. Assuming the setup isn't horribly put together, that's a 35 RPS setup. That combo probably needs to be SS'ed 3 and run with an M120 for y'all's FPS limits, but even that is cutting it close with PME. Most of those compression parts aren't really upgrades over stock G&G parts and introduce the chance that they'll introduce fitment issues. Yes, even between Rocket/SHS parts. Aluminum piston head... no. Not suitable for high speed due to additional weight and rigidity--aluminum, being much harder and more rigid, puts more stress on your gearbox when smacked into the cylinder head repeatedly. O-ring nozzle. Not horrible, but aside from the issues mentioned o-ring nozzles tend to be rather wiggly on nozzle tubes, leading to inconsistent shooting and the potential of compression jams if it's too wiggly. O-rings were originally added to nozzles in order to solve tolerance issues between manufacturers, and not to seal things better. By the laws of fluid dynamics pressure an o-ring on the nozzle is practically useless. Where was the sanding and polishing done? Aside from the piston rack there is zero reason to polish anything in the gearbox, and if he didn't coat the box it'll likely tarnish over quickly. I can get behind the polished cylinder. That's a good mod. But a new cylinder in the first place is useless. For reference, I do a fair amount of work on guns with setups like this. One is even a 13:1 35K build with a 150mm barrel, so I'm experienced with the possible issues here. Also, unless you're a great tech already and you just want the parts, I'd ask for a video of the build shooting in full auto into a chronograph for at least a 2-3 second burst to let you know if there's huge PME or the seller grenaded the gearbox. I had a seller on another forum post a build just like this for 1000 beans... with a gearbox ruined from the PME. If I were buying/trading for this I wouldn't pay more than the stock ARP-9 + that motor and ETU cost--all the compression parts are useless money.