Leo Greer

Realistically, it's a lot harder to get a LiPo to combust than you'd think. A friend and I put a nail through one once. Nothing happened. I'm madly disappointed. I wanted an explosion! I'm not a electrician, but as far as I know LiPos combust in two ways: damage to the pack followed by continued use, and pack overdraw followed by charging and continued use. Pack overdraw happens when you use a pack that doesn't provide enough amps for your setup, so the motor keeps demanding those amps, which causes the pack to heat, puff, and other bad things. Then if you charge/continue to use this pack, you could have yourself a fire on hand. This happens a lot more frequently with smaller LiPos, due to lower discharge rates. High discharge is actually safer, which doesn't seem right, but is true. I quit using a charging bag a long time ago. I don't do anything idiotic with my LiPos--there's no reason why they should catch on fire.

I heard stories (can't confirm these myself), that certain sites (cough Phoenix cough) were even going so far as to cater to his videos by placing players out in the open in those nice little groups you see in his videos. And that's why they're not running and screaming like normal airsofters.

What manufacturer is the spring? It sounds to me like you're getting bad air seal most of the time, and then the jumps are the only correct readings. This differs by manufacturer, but for Guarder SP springs, which are the most common, you basically add 20 to get to the "M" rating equivalent. 340 is about normal then, and 300 is low.

I just hate broken chronos too! It confused me until I learned that "RPS" stood for "Rocks Per Second". But, in all seriousness, would anyone here believe me if I made a video chronoing a series of increasingly stressful builds on a 18650 Li-ion (the cells that Titan uses), a Crazepony 1400 x 30C, and then compare those with various other LiPos? Titan uses Sony VTC6 18650 cells, which have a known discharge rate. No clue on earth where they got 16C! (they literally use THESE) To one point, the power y'all are shooting at is lower in the UK, hence less energy needed. But, I do have to ask, did any of y'all test with something other than a Titan Li-ion or Crazepony LiPo? Without a control what good is it to say you have "good RPS"? Without knowing the motor specs for the DE, who's to say that 15 RPS isn't low? (or maybe it's high 😄) I also sent an email to Titan them asking some questions straight up, so I'll share their return email when/if they answer.

First off, Li-ions, including Titan, are not suitable for airsoft. They're also incredibly overpriced. They're not suitable because of the extremely low discharge rate compared to LiPos--a lot of their packs are advertised at 5C (5C x 3000mah won't even run an ordinary AEG correctly) but it gets worse. Some packs have been measured at more like 2.8C. This was tested by an actual electrical engineer with proper equipment in this thread: https://www.airsoftsociety.com/threads/objective-battery-test-titan-lion-vs-kypom-lipo-vs-hv-lipo-valken-others.161379/ Because of this inadequately low discharge, Li-ions are great as HPA batteries, and for flashlights, but not for airsoft where burst current is demanded time after time. Battery life is, as stated, subjective to your build and style. Some of my more conservative friends use more like one 1200mah 25c 7.4v in a day, but I usually run a 2200mah 25C 11.1v, which with my aggressive play style usually gets drained to about halfway to LVC. You should not be going through 3-4 1400mah packs. That's a sign of either a really inefficient build, or more likely, really bad packs that are unable to provide the current your gun needs, and are way lower specs than advertised. I had this issue a long while back with four "Crazepony" 1400 mah LiPos, which ran out extraordinarily fast and then puffed. Higher voltage actually does affect efficiency. This is because high voltage provides higher instantaneous torque, which is important for cycle startup, where the motor suddenly has to pull the spring's weight. So higher voltage actually mitigates some voltage sag on startup. You're assuming 1mah per shot, which could easily be untrue, and you're also assuming that the battery is rated correctly and isn't more like 800mah in actuality. The only real way to calculate this is to setup a baseline test on your build: charge the battery, measure capacity, as well the IR rating to determine if you actually have the stated discharge, and you're not overdrawing the battery, and then shoot 100 times (or whatever number) and measure again.

Lets hope our American variants don't cross the Atlantic. They'll send PMs and even send emails, but they don't spam adds for pure drug powders.. ...imagine if they interbreed...

Krytac has been known to recommend underpowered packs due to overspin on 11.1v in some parts of the world, rather than fixing the issue.

TSGs. Wow. Stating terms for something that probably ten techs in the world have a working version of.

Have you checked your motor brushes? It's super simple to do basic disassembly on the motor end bell to determine if it is indeed the issue.

Basically just get inside and see what's broken, burnt, or messed up. 🙂 I was speaking with Jakub from Perun and he told me that the connectors commonly used for airsoft motors were never intended to be bent, hence why they break so often. Too bad bullet plug mods are a pain...

He's spreading: https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/threads/newbie.67689/#post-455529

Cybergun is pretty much hot garbage. There's a reason they litter the American eBay pages. I know people who've had serious issues with the "Ultra Grade" models, but supposedly they started making those for Evike, and the older lines are way better. I've never gotten my hands on one of their gearboxes, but I use their parts when I have them, so I can vouch that the components in their more premium lines are very solid.

Spambot logic: Glue sniffers = oxycodone and heroin sniffers.

To be fair, Airsoft Mike literally just reads the retailer's descriptions while showing himself groping the RIF in a tactical jumpsuit. So...

You can definitely find some views. I post videos of my builds for almost the sole purpose of sharing with others and posting on forums, and recently had a video get 1,200 views for no reason. I also see shorts getting views a lot more and a lot more quickly than full-length or mid-length videos. People want it fast nowadays!

In my experience King Arms is pretty solid, but not all of their guns have the same high quality gearbox internals. Some come with modernized insides--inline MOSFETs, steel rack pistons, neodymium magnet motors... but it's not all of them.

In order to get good analytical answers, I would first share what you already know, and what you're already planning to put in this video. I have to admit it does sound a little weird that you're putting yourself as an expert opinion in your video (or so it sounds), and turning around here to ask what everyone wished they knew. If we don't know you, we can't know what you're aware of, so we can't give you good answers. Since most people who show up to airsoft forums are complete noobs, the veteran members made a natural assumption. If you do end up needing to "give me information" threads, it's best to couch the question. For example, if I were asking this question, I would read the first few pages of posts in some of the categories, and then find some items to discuss. And then once you've started a discussion, you can ask things like "Is it true that G&G sux bahwluks?" and people will probably answer.

So you're a sniper, not a DMR?

Take that grip off, if ya haven't already. Look through the mag well and see if the bolt catch interacts with the gearbox shell. Turn the selector to safe and tilt the gearbox forward while wiggling gently. Good luck!

You have two areas of improvement, one of which is vastly more important than the other. First, improve your target recognition, shot tracking, positioning, etc. Shot tracking will get better as you get to know how the replica shoots--without sun to see the BB you have to rely on knowing where it's supposed to be, the sound it makes when it hits the environment or players, and even look for physical disturbances, like rustled leaves or shirts. You should also be very familiar with your effective range to make sure your shots aren't simply falling short of target. If you wanted to be analytical about it, you could easily use google maps to create an overlay of your field and notate some distances to let you know what your range is from certain positions. Positioning is huge for DMR players, but that's pretty self-explanatory. You should know what your optimum positions are on the fields that you play at, where fire will come from, what points you can move up to and back from, etc, how to manipulate angles on different pieces of cover. The second much less important area of improvement is your replica itself. Doing stabilization mods, using higher quality, heavier ammunition, changing your hop rubber and nub, or even polishing your barrel are easy ways to improve effective range. Improve yourself before your replica!

Of course--that's why ported piston heads are a thing. In fact at low RPS you can get away with a non-ported piston head, like the original TM design, as the piston is able to pull air in through the nozzle with no issue. At higher RPS non-ported causes extra drag. Part of the advantage of porting is that when the piston has room to accelerate before achieving airseal with the cylinder, which increases efficiency a lot. This is similar to using higher pressure in HPA rather than a larger air volume. It's silly because there's no point to it--why not just have a full cylinder, or whatever cylinder is correct for the BB weight and barrel length? For example, on an MP5K or G&G ARP9 with a 150mm barrel, a 50% cylinder is about right for even heavy BBs (.32g+), and using a larger cylinder would just make it louder, have PME earlier, and require a change of a part. Luke's logic dictates that the port should instead sit behind the piston head at all times... which is the same as a full cylinder.

I spend about half my airsoft time at the field, but mostly I play on eight acres of woods with my "team" (friends). If you have enough buddies and enough space it's the best of all worlds: great players, create your own rulesets and game modes, and no worries about costs or insurance. The biggest trouble is finding a place where its legal, or property owned by an acquaintance.

Those who get too big for their britches will all be exposed in the end.

An inline MOSFET fixes it (not one of the plug and play ones). The issue being that it needs to be wired into the switch located inside the gearbox.

It will damage the gun over time, same as any other battery. An 11.1v will just do it faster. If you want the gun to sound nicer and shoot faster, but burn out your microswitch faster, run the 11.1v. If you want a little more durability, go for a 7.4v LiPo. LiPos are far superior to Nimh. As Colin notes, though, those kinds of unprotected microswitches are really just bad design and are being run above their failure threshold, which makes them susceptible to early failure on any battery.