Leo Greer

I love it when I see airsoft guns or air guns in movies. In one of the promo pictures for the movie Nobody the guy literally has a Hicap in his rifle 😆

Correct. But they’re so close that it doesn’t matter. I measured three brands of BBs of low, medium, and high shooting quality, with a micrometer and then charted the results. BLS .32g scored the highest, having only a single variation. Lancer Tactical .20g we’re the worst, and yet the variation was still minuscule. Here were my results for the BLS, using 10 BBs picked at random (in inches): 0.234” 0.234” 0.234” 0.234” 0.234” 0.234” 0.2335” 0.234” 0.234” 0.234” Equivalent: 5.9436mm on average. And here were my worst results, for Lancer Tactical .20g: 0.234” 0.2335” 0.233” 0.2335” 0.2335” 0.233” 0.2335” 0.2335” 0.233” 0.233” Equivalent: 5.92709mm on average.

That’s not the battery—that’s your replica having issues. The motor pulls back the piston. That’s it. Why would how fast you pull back the piston affect FPS in any way? It’s how fast the piston moves after the sector releases. A dirty barrel may cause lower FPS, but it can also cause higher FPS. It depends on what kind of “dirty” you’re talking about. For example, BB residue can cause a barrel to functionally become tighter, which increases FPS.

Changing to a 6.02mm will increase your FPS. Air volume, air pressure, air seal, and spring strength are the factors that affect FPS. How much energy your spring is adding to how much at air what pressure with what degree of transfer to your BB. A tighter barrel gives you a higher transfer. These barrels won’t necessarily increase accuracy (and the range gain from that amount of FPS is minimal at best), you sticking with your stock barrel is a very viable option, but there’s nothing wrong with aftermarket barrels like the ZCI, or “premium” options like the Lambda SMART or “Five and One”. To get more RPS/trigger response, you have to work with a balance. Basically, if your gears are cycling too fast, they will catch the piston before it fully returns, causing bad wear at best, and at worst, catastrophic gearbox failure. The answer to this is to make your spring stronger, so the piston returns faster and the gears catch at the right time. The trouble is you’re now increasing your FPS, which may put you above field limits. It’s a give and take. If you’re taking it to a tech anyways, they’ll have their own way of doing things that’s likely to be completely different from my own. However, here is what I would do, assuming you’re trying to stay under UK rifleman joule limits: According to my calcs, you’re at .80J with .28g. This isn’t too much room to work with. First off, I would change to a neodymium 30K motor. The cheap option is a motor from ChiHai Shenzhen, who OEMs for a massive amount of companies. I was able to get any RPM shipped to me in the USA for $40 USD. The more expensive option is a Tienly, which you really don’t need. You could also use an Arcturus 28K 19T if y’all have them available in the UK. The only reason I don’t recommend the SHS high torque or the ASG 30K boost, is that neither are actually 30K, instead clocking in at about 35K, which may be a little fast. After you have a 30K motor, the RPS should be in between 20-23, and you now have the power to pull whatever gears and spring you want. Assuming you’re not getting PME or double firing on this setup, you can now play the balance of using faster gears (16:1, 13:1, SHS/Rocket being the recommended brand, which should land you 25-27 and 29-31 RPS respectively), and trigger response to match. If you find you’re getting PME, or double shooting, the answer to both problems is to short stroke, and then increase your spring power. All techs will do this differently… I would short stroke two teeth off the release side and use a true M110, and change spring power as needed. I trust springs from Guarder and PDI, as they are both hard springs that don’t lose power over time. Soft springs (SHS,etc) will lose power, bend out of shape, and can cause serious wear and damage to your other internals. As a side note, the easiest way by far to increase your RPS and response is to use an 11.1v LiPo. If you get double shots, see above. And, as another side note, you can shorten your inner barrel to decrease FPS, which will give you more room to increase spring power. With a shorter barrel, more air is wasted, and the BB doesn’t have time to take advantage of it. I have a build right now that shoots under 1J at 35 RPS, thanks to having a super short inner.

No said you couldn’t charge your LiPos that fast. They said it was a bad idea to do so.

That’s worrying. What I would do next is remove the upper and track nozzle position while dry firing—if it doesn’t fully extend due to sticking, tappet PME, etc, that’s your issue. You can also try manually pushing the nozzle in and it to just the level of friction it has with the nozzle tube, and the friction of the tappet plate on the gearbox.

That hop unit is not an upgrade. Try the original one and see if that fixes it.

I have no clue what the real steel stuff is worth, or how much it depreciates, but I’d put a value on the replica itself at somewhere under or around $300. I know some people prefer the BTC, but it’s outdated at this point, so it doesn’t add crazy value… And then a G&P with full trades, presumably shipped from Asia, and presumably one of the old G&P versions, not the newer crap. So a very nice base replica… I know of smart people paying $300–350 USD for rarer G&Ps, but it’s hard to put an exact price on anything. At the end of the day, it’s worth what someone will pay for it, regardless of what it has going. Look for similar listings, see what they sell for, and if you feel like those are prices you’d be comfortable settling at, go for it!

Go to Airsoft Sniper Forum and as the same questions—they’ll know exactly what’s wrong. Chances are it’s some spec issue depending on whose version of VSR10 you hit, as not all models and parts are TM compatible.

Nothing wrong with that either. 😁

Why did you change all of those parts, aside from the broken nozzle? At first look, without knowing more specific info, FPS issues like this tend to be related to either the nozzle or the tappet plate. If you have the original nozzle still, compare it to the new one for nozzle wobble and length. Too long or too short can both cause FPS changes. The tappet controls how far back the nozzle is pulled, and how far forward it goes. Make sure the tappet profile matches the original exactly, or it could easily be the root of your problems. If it is too long or too wide, the nozzle extension could be limited. If the tappet is too short or small, it could limit return motion or even potentially push the BB past the hop rubber. Try the original barrel and hop packing in different combos with the new barrel and hop packing. It’s pretty common to see Maple Leaf rubbers have too thick of “shoulders” and so cause the barrel to be pushed backwards further than normal in the hop unit. This simulates the nozzle being shorter than it should be, by moving everything else farther away.

It’s also great to be able to estimate how efficient your replica is.

It’s a major pain to change, because, as Speedbird says, the gearbox is proprietary. However, you can switch the gearbox to an Arcturus and use a micro switch + inline MOSFET, or an E&L and use a standard ETU like the Perun Hybrid or GATE Titan. Specs on those gearboxes are very close to drop in or completely drop in for Ares receivers, but there’s no guarantees in airsoft. It’s a big pain to change the gearbox anyways.

Next time I’ll just quote his post say in all caps “OFFICIAL BOLLOCKS MARK”

Where are you getting this info? The battery has nothing to do with FPS… unless you’re running too high of voltage and are getting PME. Cycling time also has nothing to do with FPS… Friction of what? I’ve measured over a dozen different brands of BBs, both weight, sphericity, and checked for air bubble consistency on the inside. Not even horrible green BBs from sporting goods stores had enough size or weight inconsistency to cause any FPS variance like this. This would require some of the BBs to be literally double the weight. For reference, even low quality BBs like Lancer Tactical have weight variances that are in the hundredths of a gram. Dirty hop unit, and dirty barrel… yes. Except it’s only happening with certain BBs, and the drops are consistent. The chrono can misread, but averaging in giant drops like this isn’t accurate. This does bring up a valuable point, though—OP, is it possible you mixed heavier BBs in with your .20gs? They would have to be really heavy, like .40g+. I realize that’s not at all likely, but it’s a possibility nonetheless.

It took a friend approximately 3 hours to explain these concepts to me, through a series of humorous and incredibly random WH 40K parody videos…

And they’re both okay to show to people, but not before anyone asks. 😏

What ammo are you using? That is not the right size. 21.4mm is standard for most replicas. If this issue didn’t occur before you switched the nozzle, I would try and find a generic 21.4mm nozzle to switch to, or if you feel like it, a Maxx adjustable. First, however, you should get inside the barrel group and make sure you don’t have grease or something else on the hop rubber, nozzle, or anything outside the gearbox, really.

Never got my hands on the Begadi rubbers myself, but a lot of very smart fellows I know prefer them fully over Maple Leaf. For more info, ask around over on Airsoft Sniper Forum. To increase accuracy and range, the first thing you should do is get heavier, quality ammunition, then take out your barrel group, clean out any oil or residue, polish the barrel if you feel like it, stabilize everything, and test again. You will get a lot of accuracy increase out of simply stabilizing the barrel and hop unit, without spending any money. If your rubber feels very hard or slick, you should consider replacing. Maple Leaf is a good option, as are Begadi. And then there are simpler options like the PDI W-hold, Krytac blue and Orange, or the G&G blue and green. As a note, the green is not an upgrade, merely a replacement for a bad rubber, and both G&G rubbers can have spec issues in different hop units, as they are designed for the G&G rotary. Shaving of the packing lips may be required.

I think @RostokMcSpoons ‘s response summed up my feelings pretty nicely. I would be in the ignorant camp for most of these things. Do I know what a Swastika is and why not to wear it? Yeah. Do I know what patterns on shemaghs or keffiyehs mean what? Heck no. Young players are stupid, not always malicious. We’ll change more of their behavior by being friends than we will by alienating/being hostile.

*turns to page 31*

I think it’s incredibly interesting to hear the depth of history in y’all’s stories above and I appreciate the time took to share it. Airsoft be darned, we’re talking history now! But Leo, what about your family? My family history? Oh boy… hang on tight… On my dad’s side: My grandfather was a cop who came from a genuine dysfunctional hillbilly family that crawled out of the mud somewhere in the 50s. He was the only one of his family to escape the hillbilly life, and is remembered for his work as a cop, private investigator, and for saving several children from a burning vehicle. He also had a medical grade thing for coupons, and took at least five toothpicks from every restaurant he ever went to. My father and I cleaned out his desk after his passing and found multiple gallon ziplocks full of them. My grandmother is a “southern belle” who traces her family back to the Latimers of medieval England, in particular William Latimer, who served under Henry III and then later Thomas Latimer who arrived in Virginia in 1701. Due to her failing eyesight, she has developed a tendency to insinuate that various (extremely white) persons must be part Native American… On my mother’s side: My Grandmother’s family came from Palermo, Sicily in 1919, dirt poor immigrants, with the name Palazzolo. In fact, if you look up the name Palazzolo, chance are I’m closely related to anyone who comes up, as the name is pretty rare. My great-great grandfather was Giuseppe Palazzolo, better known as Joe. He cooked like no other, and had a large “doll” that sang in Italian and creeped the heck out of us kids. He also served in the US Navy during WWII—I’ll have to ask around a bit more for some details. My grandfather’s family was nothing extraordinary, except that he somehow passed some African American genes down, despite being whiter than anything. He was also descended from Oliver Wendell Holmes. Who is famous for his poetry, philosophy, and his time as a Supreme Court Justice (chief American legal bigwigs). He made law, not war…

I work as a roofer. Long sleeves, cotton jeans, 100+ degree heat… if I’m lucky I’m not in the attic (make that 170 degrees)… … I feel your pain brother. I might need those underwear. I love how they say “eye catching waistband designs”, like you’re gonna be showing off your sheath and bawhlux to everyone who’s walking by.

It’s impossible to overestimate the value of cheap.

It’s possible that you take a PDW lower from a different manufacturer and make it work… but that requires both luck and skill. Airsoft is absolutely horrible where tolerances and standards are concerned. I’m currently adapting a 20 year old Classic Army M4A1 upper to fit a Tokyo Marui lower. I feel your pain.