Leo Greer

XT30 is really the way to go if you were going to resolder everything. But as others have mentioned, everybody uses deans nowadays, and it's not really worth griping over... I resolder to gold-plated genuine deans ultra if I have to resolder, as the genuine deans have a lot less resistance than the basic copies.

Things may be very different at your local fields, but at least in my experience, it depends, again, on who's shooting the gun. For some examples of perfectly clean, no BS HPA gameplay, check out this guy: Chaos Wolf Airsoft I play with him regularly--he pretty much only uses reserved semi.

Looks like you found out how to calculate amps. As long as your motor has enough amps, it literally doesn't matter how high the ratings are. I should point out that most airsoft manufacturers drastically overstate their ratings in both "C" and Mah, sometimes by as much as double, as testing has shown. This is even inconsistent between identical packs made by the same manufacturer.

This is an extremely valid reason. The one consolation is that once you get past 45 RPS parts tend to wear a lot faster, and without skillful maintenance can easily grenade themselves, since you're so close to PME. Any kind of compression jam and your gearbox goes kaput. Definitely something to think about, especially in the USA where it's not crazily uncommon to see builds pushing 60 RPS up for sale. Not that this lessens my own responsibility, but I will point out that anyone can buy a Polarstar and achieve much the same thing. Maybe not 70 RPS, but you can push 50 without real trouble. I'm not sure how prevalent HPA is in the UK, but it's very common at certain site here to see "kids" (13-16 yo wankuhs) with serious HPA setups, as I'm sure y'all know from the YouTube crap. Thankfully that doesn't go on at most fields.

There are a couple frequent players that I learn something new from almost every time I play with them. I'll camp a corner or hold down a lane, and they'll use a creative method or strategy to take me out, and then I get to copy their tactics and apply it to the next guy. 🙂 On the subject of "wankerguns" and "wankermen"... No reason to prohibit "wankerguns" as long as rules are applied. If we prohibit guns that are capable of hurting people more than others, then we should also ban anything higher than base joule limits. It wouldn't be much fun if we banned all snipers just because they're capable of hurting people more when used in violation of their MEDs. I recently put together a 70 RPS DSG that shoots at 1.5J, which is normal rifleman FPS for the USA but would be considered a DMR at many of y'all's UK sites, if not all of them. So I basically have a 70 RPS DMR, which is a wankergun by any definition. I built it to see if I could do it, and to have some fun with extreme trigger response, not to full auto people in the rear ends. I once had a fellow DSG tech comment that the only time you should hear DSG full auto at a field is in the staging area as a tech flex, and I agree with that approach. Sure you can semi-spam, but even with 70 RPS available I can't spam faster than a 20 RPS stock gun can full auto. maybe with a blade trigger setup, but who uses those outdoors? Wankermen, on the other hand... Any idiot with a stock gun can hurt someone or ruin a game shooting someone under MED, especially in the USA where guns can come pretty hot out of the box (a lot of JG rifles will do up to 1.7J OOTB). Any idiot can also have a tech build a high FPS gun and do their best Dicking Crustang impression. The best way I've found to deal with Wankermen is to simply outplay them. Most often they're not very good, and are merely hiding behind a tough persona or the ability to send waves of BBs down field. Playing smarter will net you more wins than shooting faster. If you don't like the players at a site, then leave. The point is to have fun, not to win, and if you're not having fun you're not doing any good being there. (this is a note to myself, as I can definitely get a little hotheaded and technical about rules when I feel things are unfair) Honestly the most dangerous players, in my experience, are noobs. They may be fine people, but they tend to have low awareness of rules, field respect, what you do and don't, etc. QC spring guides are also dangerous--I played with a very stupid, very innocent new player who'd put an M150 into his stock Lancer and not known he had to chronograph. We only figured out what was going on after his BBs were chipping the cinderblocks some players were hiding behind. Complete idiot. He wasn't being malicious, but he was still dangerous. And his gearbox promptly crapped itself. As expected. Problem solved. The best barrel I've found for the MR.Hop are TNT barrels. Conveniently, TNT barrels are also overpriced by a huge margin. 😂 Lambda, which are not overpriced, do fit them well though. I have a couple of Prommy barrels sitting around right now, so I could probably test that out. I'm out of town at the moment though so don't expect instant results...

Hmm--it could possibly be an issue with how the Retro arms gearbox aligned the nozzle to your hop unit, but at this point without further info I'd guess it's probably a subtly of installment or alignment. Put it back in the original box and let us know how it works!

Hmm. I would personally have a replacement sector on hand in case that one fails entirely, though you should be fine just missing one tooth as long as it's on the pickup or release and not in the middle. Here's some possible fixes and diagnostics for your FPS issue: I'm assuming your compression assembly all seals well? Check with the nozzle off. It's possible that your tappet was sticking on the shims at the top of your sector gear and causing issues. Take a video into the feed tube in slow motion while dry firing and make sure the nozzle is making the full cycle. I've seen issues where the tappet catches on shims and only travels half the distance to the hop rubber, causing extremely low FPS. Is your barrel group completely stock? I'm assuming you checked and made sure all the parts were intact already. A torn hop rubber can cause huge FPS loss. Without the cylinder in, cycle the gearbox by hand and make sure everything is moving properly with the tappet and nozzle. Try switching back to the stock nozzle and cylinder head, making sure to check the seal with the nozzle off. Most cylinder heads can also be "fixed" if leaky by wrapping in teflon tape. This is an obscure fix attempt, but it's possible something simply shifted out of alignment, or even your nozzle slipped off the tappet plate and replacing everything correctly will fix it.

@Speedbird_666 Alright, I did some research on the Arcturus microswitch and what should be expected out of it. First off, the electrical problem: microswitches aren't meant to handle more than about 15-16 amps, and stock airsoft guns typically pull 15-20, with upgraded guns or more inefficient setups being capable of pulling a lot more. This leads to early failure. Secondly, under vibration the microswitch contacts vibrate very rapidly, causing arcing hundreds of times a second, which causes wear, carbon buildup, and, when connected to an ETU, damaging electrical pulses capable of easily overheating and melting the unit. This is likely the reason why ARES and Cyma ETUs that use microswitches as their trigger burn out so fast. Now, here's the flip side: the Arcturus setup uses an inline 3034 MOSFET, which performs its purpose and reduces the current through the microswitch to basically none. This in turns solves the arcing and wear problems, and there is no ETU to speak of. That leaves only mechanical difficulties, as many microswitches are fragile. This particular unit is rather sturdy, and the microswitch is rated to 1,000,000 cycles, meaning that if this info is correct, the microswitch should actually be one of the longest-lived parts in the gearbox. Sources: https://www.kingdomofairsoft.com/microswitches https://www.grandye-switch.com/product/airsoft-micro-switch/ The grammar in the second link made me laugh.

What's the build? If you lost a tooth on the sector that's an indicator of a serious problem--most likely dysfunctional gears or serious PME.

Huh--is the Macaron a different design than the Super and the MR.Hop? It's possible I'm incorrect here. On a side note, does your Lancer have the plastic bushings? The two that I've opened up have both had nylon bushings that were just below 8mm, but I know not all models in the G2 line were made the same.

The description for this model seems okay (of course you can never know until you try it out), but did anyone catch that many of the other models use 7mm bearings? Who thought that was a good idea? It sounded to me like they were getting rid of either old stock 7mm bearings or 7mm gearbox shells they had lying around. I also notice this model doesn't mention what bearings or bushings it uses.

See, that's a way better price than we have in the USA! This issue may not be as common or prevalent in the UK, but as different hop units have different size specs (almost always larger than Marui spec), a lot of hop units won't properly fit ML rubbers, because the front is too thick and disallows you from putting the clip back on. You also may need to use a longer nozzle to compensate for the slightly recessed hop rubber or lose air seal/accuracy. This happens on TM hop units, Arcturus units, Lancer G2 units, Classic Army units (one of the versions. low profile blue rotary), true Prowin units, Dytac clone Prowin units, and others that I can't remember at the moment. (the units named are all tested by me) Whereas the rubbers fit perfectly in larger spec units like G&G, Krytac, and Maxx.

Do y'all have Lambda in the UK? Here in the USA they're close-ish to ZCI's pricing (more like $30-45) but at PDI's finishing level. Most of my builds hover in between 25 and 30 RPS on 11.1v and 16-20 on 7.4v--above that I believe is impractical. As I've become a better player I've begun playing more and more semi-auto only. At this point I typically use FA-burst only when suppressing corners or windows for teammates to move up, which I believe is a proper use. Interesting findings on the Macaron vs. the MR.Hop--Y'all have convinced me I need to test those some more! Price mostly. In the USA it costs about $16-18 to purchase a ML packing and nub combo (about 15 beans for you guys), which puts the cost of the rubber and nub at near the cost of a new motor. The main practical advantage of flat hopping vs replacement is usually compatibility with the original hop unit, and hopefully fitment to the nozzle, assuming the stock setup is any decent. If you have to purchase even the excellently priced ZCI hop unit in order to use your ML hop rubber it brings the cost up. Not a huge amount of money, but money spent regardless. You would be correct about the toxic combo being real. Most of the players at my local field are good sportsmen and are just playing to have fun, but you get the occasional player who seems to show up just to cause trouble. And sometimes it's just that senile old 'Nam vet who doesn't think someone's "out" until they stop moving (true story). I may not agree with everything he says, but there's no question that Luke is a huge asset to y'all's community. In the USA you very, very rarely find techs who both know what they're doing and offer their services for "ordinary man" prices. That would be exactly why I'm on the forums and not on social media--I like to learn new things, practical approaches, and ways to do it better, and social media/Reddit rarely turn up anything besides hype. I've gone down the road of spending 400+ beans on "upgrade" parts only to have everything fail (and I spent six months trying to build that rifle). The average air softer at my local field is in between 13 and 15 and fits every stereotype you can think up, aside from most of them using Lancer Crapticals and not Lancer Polarstars. Never been to a milsim myself--I look at ticket prices, and then I look at that part I wanted to try in my M4, and then I look at ticket prices again... and I end up buying myself a sandwich instead.

Alright y'all, I'm a forum regular on America's largest (only) active Airsoft forum, and I've been lurking here for quite a while before deciding to start contributing. During that time I've noticed that y'all tend to do things differently than American "tech thinking", so I wanted to make this thread to discuss some of the differences and perhaps ways I could improve my own teching style. 😁 I'm not including Reddit or YouTube when I say "American" teching. We all know they'll go in for whatever's hype at the moment and most have never put together a solid build. First off, I notice ZCI is the chief choice of aftermarket barrel. What's the particular reasoning here? Obviously you can pick your length and boost your FPS a little bit, but in my experience I haven't noticed ZCI to be of any higher finish quality than most stock brass barrels, especially when you can polish those barrels for an accuracy boost. Any thoughts on ZCI's new ownership affecting their quality? Secondly, I notice almost everyone here going for increased range picks the ML (Maple Leaf) Macaron. Why the Macaron over, say, the MR.Hop, which is a newer design and offers more consistent contact surface? I notice a lack of the flat hop mod. You can turn most hop rubbers into ML equivalents within minutes using just a cordless drill and DIY yourself a flat nub out of any piece of plastic. I notice most players/techs here seem to have a general dislike of/disdain for high RPS builds, even those constructed with trigger response in mind and not full-auto trolling. Is it related to rules and restrictions, general respect, or a disdain for those who abuse high ROF? To most of the respected American techs, approximately 87% of the teching advice Luke at Negative puts out is utter nonsense... I agree in some cases. His porting video is pretty silly. Though perhaps it's all intentional. His stuff clearly works though. Anything else y'all can think of? I know we tend to have higher FPS limits, and that changes how techs build--mostly I'm interested in learning the reasons behind different choices in order to improve my own builds. 🙂

MOS (E&L and Arcturus) is supposedly working on a rif that comes brushless as standard. I do have to point out that Ranger is almost surely a payed advertiser.

I'll agree with you there--the lack of ability to easily add an ETU is a big consideration. Jefftron does make a unit that goes in place of the microswitch, but I don't remember too much about it, other than that it did add microswitch debouncing and optional AB functions. I think it cost under $40? So not cheap but not nuts either... So far the microswitches in mine have held up... and hopefully will continue to... My NY06 microswitch is nearing 100K cycles with no issue, and I have a second at 20K (CAT Versatile). Of course, this is airsoft, your mileage may vary! If not, the replacement costs about $3 and needs to be soldered to three wires, so it won't be a huge deal, but definitely something to consider. Kinda like how the Cyma Platinum ETUs all burn out and need replacement eventually. 😑 My Cyma M14 has been nearly bulletproof so far... but it's heavy as heck and the M14 isn't a great platform to work on, which kept it off my recommendation. The long barrel is also a detriment potentially for any heavy BBs. I can't remember what the exact voluming numbers are, but I think above about .28g you start undervoluming. I may be wrong though. And, to be fair, y'all are in the UK where FPS limits aren't as high and you may not ever want to use BBs heavier than X weight.

Arcturus Sport or NY06. All you need is a hop rubber, some stabilization mods, and maybe a stronger spring (comes with a QC spring guide, so no gearbox work required), and you're pretty much good to go. PDI W-hold and Modify rubbers work very well in the Arcturus hop unit when paired with any kind of flat nub mod, which can be performed in minutes. Depending on your DMR rules you may have to do something permanent, in which case the mod is relatively simple and shouldn't require any gearbox work. You just file the selector plate so the selector chip can't push it enough to turn to full auto. Either that or a simple washer blocking the selector plate from turning.

Dear Mr. Novritsch Sir, I am a huge fanboy of yours, but I have a few questions about your new DMRSniper SSQ22. First let me say that I have never played airsoft, but I have tons of sniper experience by watching your videos and Kicking Mustang's (who is like an older brother to me, since he headshot me at his Meet N' Greet last month, which made me feel very honored). With the SSQ22, what BBs should I be using to shoot at least 300 meters? In your videos you shoot people from so far away and that made me want to also shoot people from so far away that they cannot see me. Also, what scope should I use that I can see people and they cannot see me since I am so far away? What are the best pre-upgraded upgrades that I should upgrade the SSQ22 with in order to have the best upgrades of any upgrades gun on the field? I have a budget of 25,000 but I think I only need to spend 10,000. I'm thinking I want a ghillie suit so I can be a ghillie sniper but I can't decide between orange and pink. I saw on Reddit that your stuff isn't very good and it's kinda overpriced, but I didn't believe them so I posted your website information which clearly states that all of your items are super high quality and are perfect for amazing snipers and riflemen too. And then I reported them all because no one should be allowed to say mean things like that. Also, they don't know anything on those forums, right? They said that your sniper rifle is made by someone named Modify, whose parents hated them to give their kid that name, and you don't actually make any of your rifles. I replied of course that you spend all your time building those rifles so you're too busy to answer their false accusations. And anyways that is just my short list of questions. I have a couple more letters planned but I have to wait for the answer to this one so I can frame them in order. Love, Smöll Timmy. Please note that this post is intended as a complete joke based on Novritsch's fan stereotypes, and not actually to hate on Novritsch himself or his products. I don't have a problem with the guy--his products aren't horrible, and while prices may be higher than what you could get by building everything yourself, most people can't build their own RIF and expect it to work well. edit I can't say the same for KM though--that guy has some issues, but this isn't the place for that edit

AiRsofT FAMAS Am maDe of Cheez WHiz thO!

Novritsch FAMAS is next... ...Followed by the Novritsch Spring Pistol SpectacticularTM But in all reality I like the idea of a G36...

MOS Manufacture--E&L and Arcturus.

Alright, I did some research and dug up the various posts I've read--I have a rep for MOS saying that E&C manufactures some models but not others, but I was wrong about the spring guides being identical. A couple of the parts look similar, but certainly not enough to say that E&C is the OEM, so I'll go ahead and say you're right. I'm glad you were able to point that out. My mistake y'all!

I'm not a definitive expert on anything to do with his "lies", but I do know that in his video on porting he literally says to place the port so the piston head is never pulled past it based on how many teeth you short-stroke... which is extremely silly.

Ah, Lancer Tactical... normally I dismiss tech advice from Reddit as garbage, as noted above, but there is something to be said for LT. The V3s/Prolines seem to be pretty good, and, if I'm not mistaken, are OEMed by Lonex. The V2s on the other hand... some people like them, but I've worked on two so far and both came stock with plastic bushings and off-spec cylinders. The bushing holes were also too small for 8mm and required some filing for regular bushings to fit. The cylinders I thought were fine, until I realized a build was getting PME dreadfully early because the cylinder had so much resistance. Bad shimming, junk motor, nonexistent compression. Not to mention the hop rubber was crazy hard and slick. Now, not every V2 has these problems, since different parts seem to be used based on run and model, but opening up two LT-25s to find the exact same internals left a bad taste in my mouth. Not sure who makes the V2s, other than it being somewhere in China.

21.00 is shorter than standard--most use 21.4, and VFC is 21.2 if I'm not mistaken.