Duff Beer

Consistency is key Tackle 😂

Just a quick tip for anyone that has one of the above, mine was sometimes misfiring by either being super gassy on shots or doing a full auto burst. I thought it might be one of the mags being a bit sticky, and made a note of which ones it was misbehaving with, but there didn’t seem to be a pattern. As the mags were all relatively new I resigned myself to just rolling the dice when I pulled the pistol. However, because I’m a tart I found a Crusader steel extractor whilst browsing around and thought I’d pimp the pistol a little bit. It turns out that the stock extractor, which acts as the nozzle return spring guide, had broken and was jamming the spring intermittently. So, for all of you out there with a VFC/Umarex USP/P8A1 check your extractors, and consider proactively changing the extractor out.

I’ve had a pair of Earmor’s now for about two years and they’re superb. I particularly enjoy that when they knock out the bangs it doesn’t cut all the sound so you can still hear what’s going on Sound quality-wise they’re a smidge ‘tinny’, and I’d definitely recommend switching to the silicone ear cups They are very good for directional sound so you can hear where you’re being snuck up from, and battery life is very good too with a new set of AAA’s being needed ever fifteen game days or so

Someone was selling the ACOG Z-Mount for that ‘2006 in Afghan’ look for (relatively) bugger all this week. If I hadn’t just A3’d my A2 I’d have been over it

I don’t know if this is of any interest? £45 down from £112 (ex vat) https://store.arktis.co.uk/products/m610-plate-carrier-rig-olive-green?_pos=1&_psq=Plate car&_ss=e&_v=1.0

I’ve got the Umarex/VFC MP7A1 Gen 2 GBB. I’ve written loads about it on here, but it’s a bit of a beast and I recommend it

I’ve got two HSGI AO Small chest rigs setup; one for the MP7 and one for the L85. They both work perfectly with the battle belt. They’re very good, but my head’s been turned by the Spiritus Systems Alpha 34. I’ve got a Tactical Tailor Mini MAV in the drawer which was super lightweight, but if overloaded wasn’t as comfy as it’s an X-harness rather than an H-harness in the HSGI’s.

If you’ve ever looked at a post and wondered if they’re a low key flannel-daddy fan go ahead an click that like button He’s where I first saw that tip

I’ve used pretty much all of the different sling types around, and easily the best across every size of gun I have is the adjustable two point sling. Back in the day I used to like a three point, but the flexibility it gives has been matched by the adjustable sling without any of the faff. For those who like the flexibility of a single point sling an adjustable sling can be loosened to let the gun move around a lot in awkward or tight environments, but if dropped doesn’t turn into the Nut Puncher 3000 like a single point does. Equally, if you want to tighten it up for more stability (or being restrained uncomfortably is your vibe) you can do really easily and quickly. I use the Ferro Concepts slingster, but anything that gets close to the design is a good shout.

Thanks mate, I’m still on the fun side of old so there’s a few more summers in me yet. I’ll just keep it until I can’t play anymore (or pintle mount it to my zimmer frame) I did the maths recently, it’s nearly 20 years since we started!

We’ve spoken about my thoughts on the VFC MP7 ad nauseum, but I think it’s a couple of things. As winter comes along the GBB’s get stashed away, but it’s also possibly that life’s a bit more cash at the moment. If you have multiple guns, but things are a bit tight do you sell the AEG which can be used all year around, or the GBB which isn’t as effective for 1/3 year. You’ll prise my MP7 from my old arthritic hands before I sell it though!

My M32’s reduce the sound to a ‘pop’ rather than kill the sound, and that’s playing in some very tight CQB environments. They also give different levels of hearing. I have them set one setting above normal as that gives me a bit of an edge without being too overwhelming. They’re a bit ‘tinny’ when cranked up all the way, and there’s a bit of background hiss, but they’re excellent and I’ll buy another pair as/when these die

I popped the battery in, then installed the rail. I thought about putting it in the top where the gas parts are, but I like having them even though they do absolutely nothing 😂

I run a Vapex 9.9v 1000mah LiFe with a Warhead motor and can do 4000+ rounds on it in the foregrip. I have the battery under the barrel and between the gas block and the trigger group, but as LiFe seems to be more stable than LiPo I’m not envisaging having to get the battery out sharpish

I used to play every weekend (the joys of player/marshalling so I didn’t have to pay), but these days I try to get out a couple of times a month. If Mrs. Duff is away for the weekend and there’s a Saturday/Sunday combo at my local then I’ll do both days and still get out for the other one. It depends though, what with work and not wanting to have any wounds for some important photos I didn’t go for the majority of August or September

HW Holsters will be able to make one, but you’ll need to send them the pew whilst they work it out. They’re also one of the few companies I found that’ll make a holster for a USP/P8 with a light on it

As mounts have been mentioned the 403B can go on a Unity/other mount

I’ve got a Holosun 403B that I’m very pleased with. The auto-wake was something I really wanted as a feature so I didn’t have to remember to turn it off, and in dark CQB environments the battery seems to be lasting an eternity. It’s a sharp dot, easily dimmable for very dark environments, but super bright for the height of summer and doesn’t go squiggly when it is bright. There’s no parallax past 5m, and what there is is so tiny it’s irrelevant. The downsides are that there’s no thread for a protective filter/cap (the 50x series has that) so you’ll have to get a push on one from Patrolbase, and although you’ll only have to do it maybe once a year changing the battery requires an included tool. All in all I love it, and the only thing I’d have bought instead would have been a 50x from them.

I’m not sure about G&G but the ICS has a threaded barrel so it screwed on. The ICS flashhider had a small grub screw on it to stop it from walking off the barrel. Is the G&G hider definitely pinned or might it have a grub screw too?

If memory serves the Warhead motors have a MOSFET (or equivalent) in them? Edit: it doesn’t but it has a speed controller and voltage protection inbuilt https://www.warheadindustries.com/suggested-mosfet-settings

The Ronin’s a bit OTT, but the Base isn’t too bad

I’ve got a Standard Black Motor (https://www.warheadindustries.com/warhead-industries-brushless-motor) which is slightly more expensive, but if I truly honest with myself the Base Motor would have been fine. The Ronin Motor is the best, but I’d be surprised if I saw the difference in cost between that and a Black Motor in performance

I’ve got a 9.9v LiFe in mine. Gives a bit more pace than a 7.4v LiPo, but doesn’t stress anything like a 11.1v LiPo I can thoroughly recommend a Warhead motor as a first upgrade though. The standard ICS motor is slow and thirsty, whereas the Warhead motors give snappier trigger response and don’t drain the battery too much. I’ve done 4000 rounds on a 1000mah battery and not had any issues, and suspect I could probably have squeezed another 1500 out of it

I’ve used them for a few things and always found the prices to be reasonable and speed of postage to be quick. I’ve not had one of the optics off them though, it’s only ever been weapon lights and mounts As mentioned above, have a look at parallax error as you can stick the dot on a target and think you’re absolutely nailing it and be a foot wide of the mark because you haven’t got exactly the same cheek weld every time. I got bored of this and stumped up for a Holosun 403B and whilst it’s a significant investment the BB’s go where the dot is every single time