[Imagine getting at two-tone Kar98!]

I will personally find you and remove it from your possession.

 

[Gun picture thread]

Behold! 
The Billund Marui 1911:

-Great performance out of the box

-Good-feeling, high quality polymer frame and slide all the way from Denmark

-Fully LEGO compatible allows for the sea of aftermarket parts to be fitted

-Just don’t expect much out of a melée (warranty becomes invalid)

[Would “muc-off wet lube” work for the metal parts in a 1911 and why / why not?]

On 09/07/2022 at 11:44, Hatchet said:

I use Muc Off (sparingly) on the bolt on an SRS. Works well enough, but needs reasonably regular cleaning because it picks up dirt and grit. Partly this is due to the SRS bolt being permanently exposed (unlike VSR) and partly because where I'm playing at the moment has a lot of dust/dirt floating about.

So it would work alright in the slide if it is cleaned and reapplied often, I guess?

[Would “muc-off wet lube” work for the metal parts in a 1911 and why / why not?]

I’m going to get some proper lubricant for the gun anyway, just a little curious.

Also what are your opinions on silicone lubricant not being good, especially the points this guy makes. Don’t really understand it all.

 

[The 'What have you just bought' Thread]

On my limited budget, I have bought a second hand Army R28 in two tone blue, hoping the cheap price won’t mean cheap QC. Only sign of wear is a tiny chip on the plastic grip.

I could always upgrade it when I raise my budget, it’s TM compatible.

[What would you recommend as a first gun? Budget around £100]

Are there any known differences between the JG T3-K3 and the K-1 apart from the colour of the furniture?

[When do you need a MOSFET?]

Thanks lads,

I think I’m getting a bit off topic but toy guns are so complicated…

Shimming a gearbox. 
I know what it is but how necessary, should I do it as soon as I get a gun or only if I notice an issue with the gears’ contacts?

[When do you need a MOSFET?]

I think I’ve learned what I came here for.

My conclusion is that a 7.4 Lipo will give a higher rpm than a 7.2 but the fps is always the same, I should probably get an m90 and hack away at the gearbox. It doesn’t matter too much for the rpm as my local site seldom allows full-auto.

 

As for MOSFET’s, they are for high power batteries to stop the carbon hurting the gun so quickly. They can be expensive and fancy and programmable or cheaper but not absolutely necessary for a cheaper gun as replacing the trigger contacts isn’t the end of the world (although they are becoming harder to find in the U.K.).

[When do you need a MOSFET?]

Thanks so much, I get it now

[When do you need a MOSFET?]

I’m confused and my head’s spinning, my grasp on electricity is not good! 

Why do amps matter and not watts? Isn’t current just watts or amps? 
I’m probably making a fool of myself but everything I search up doesn’t seem to make sense, I just know that volts is the amount electricity that can get in and amps are how fast the electricity is flowing.

[When do you need a MOSFET?]

So 7.2 Nimh would give lower fps than a 7.2 lipo?

[When do you need a MOSFET?]

1 minute ago, Shamal said:

3000 mah will give a good run time but nimh may lack the oomph needed quickly.

So let’s say I’m planning to get a JG T3. The only thing is that it shoots 370 where I need to get it down to sub 350.

Would using a weaker battery do the same as a spring downgrade or is this lipo ‘oomph’ the fire-rate?

[When do you need a MOSFET?]

 

20 minutes ago, Dan Robinson said:

I'd say it would be a bit anaemic. 

I also have one with 3000 mah

[When do you need a MOSFET?]

It turns out that my car battery is a ‘1800 mah’, ‘Ni-Mh’, and a ‘7.2 VOLT POWER PACK’. 
Suitable for a gun?

It seems to be two sticks joined in a plastic shell

[When do you need a MOSFET?]

Thanks a lot guys…

 

This is probably a bit of a dumb question but could you “half-charge” an 11.1V? With my 11.1 toy electric car, the power gradually decreases until it barely moves.

So, could you just have it on a lower power?

[What would you recommend as a first gun? Budget around £100]

Thanks, are the Specna Arms ‘Flex’ series anything to get excited about?

[What would you recommend as a first gun? Budget around £100]

7 minutes ago, Shamal said:

Umm I think you will find that they fuckin' well can! 🤕

Regards 

 

 

Hurt? Fuck yeah! Damage your body? To a minimal extent, e.g. bruises and redness unless it’s like 900 fps which is probably classed as a firearm

[What would you recommend as a first gun? Budget around £100]

40 minutes ago, Floperator said:

I mean I would have dealt with it by say at the morning briefing, "btw guys, this dude is running a sub-350 bolt action, don't come and cry to us if he shoots you at close range", but then I don't have to manage 60-odd players each with different gear and I can see the logic in not making exceptions for every quirky setup that comes along.

There is a rule about not rapid firing DMRs, and so far I haven't seen anyone taking the piss in that regard.

Oddly, though there is officially a 360 fps limit (with 0.20g) for AEGs and pistols, in practice they don't chrono pistols unless they are CO2. Fwiw I asked to chrono my ASG mk23 with and without 'silencer' just for my own peace of mind (because who wants to be that guy?), and was well under the limit. 

Plantation had no morning chrono at all, but there were chronos available and they did do spot checks through the day. That said I don't know how many they did, just that they checked me!

 

I suppose it would be too much to ask for every site to have the same rules and enforce them similarly, but imo some of the 'range safety' aspects at least need to be more unified and up to a certain standard. Always thought it was a bit perfunctory how everyone gets the safezone safety briefing *after* they've been milling around the safezone for half an hour...You should get that on your way in the door, and mandatory chrono for everything with site-supplied BBs (The first site I went to did this).

I was pretty horrified to read in another thread about a site where people were dry firing in the safezone, this definitely needs to stop.

 

(So sorry to derail your thread OP)

 

Floperator, that’s fine, it’s an interesting topic, at my field it’s 350 for anything but dmr’s and bolt actions, 400, for dmr and 500 for a sniper. They won’t let you dryfire anywhere as soon as the session officially stars and apparently you have to leave 2 seconds before you shoot again with a sniper but they didn’t enforce that one last time.

It could be said, though, that guns “too powerful” still can’t harm you and won’t give the user much advantage except pissing people off but it’s nice to have a fair set of rules.

[What would you recommend as a first gun? Budget around £100]

10 hours ago, Rogerborg said:

Eh.  Any metal gearboxed CYMAs will last just fine, they're tough internally.  It's the externals that don't feel so great.  You can play with a cheap AEG, and anything that's currently in stock at Patrol Base will work.

 

https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-assault-rifles-all?*inst=y

 

Just be aware that the plastic on the CYMA M4s in particular is very toyish, although the BBs won't care.  The Lancer Tacticals offer a lot of features for the money, and I think they've sorted their quality control issues.

 

Sniping is definitely a case of try-before-committing, and you can either go really cheap to try, buy a VSR compatible platform with a plan to upgrade, or budget £300+ out of the box.  We covered the alternatives in a recent thread.

 

 

 

Ok, in regards to my *cough cough* AEP, I’ve got a proper pistol now so that doesn’t matter. *

I’ve read this read a while back and it was quite interesting, motivating me to not make the “fatal” decision (ok, don’t quote me on that, I know, it kinda depends and stuff) of buying a cheap sniper. 

 

Roger, how did your Well mb03 break? I’m interested to see how it happened but I bet the high power spring kills the plastic internals.

 

*I’ve heard that a pistol as a first gun is bad but it’s too late, not sending it back!

Also, I know a CYMA might last longer but I prefer the look and (how it’s supposed to) feel of the JG T3K1. Finally, you’d be glad to hear I got a refund on that piss-tol today.

[When do you need a MOSFET?]

Ah ok, so running my 11.1 lipo is not recommended, does it even bring any benefits? From what I’ve seen it only increases rpm.

I’ve just searched up titan MOSFET and it’s something you can program, what does that do?

[When do you need a MOSFET?]

Is there any sort of battery output number where getting a MOSFET is probably right. (This isn’t currently a problem for me, I’m just wondering).

[What would you recommend as a first gun? Budget around £100]

Ok, my takeaway is that I should get a good aeg that will last, and if I want to try sniping, get a well and see if it’s my cuppa tea.

[What would you recommend as a first gun? Budget around £100]

Thanks for nudging me in the right direction, people often say I’m the sort of person to get stuck in the action. Probably getting a FAL, AK or MP5.

[What would you recommend as a first gun? Budget around £100]

Hi lads, I’ve been looking for a while, I understand that a sniper is discouraged but I like the Well Mb03.

I also have looked at the JG T3’s. I’d rather not an M4 as I want to be a bit “original”.

Budget around £100, spit some stuff at me!

(also don’t know if this the right place to post this!)

[M92 electric pistol, need photo of internals]

Ok, turns out the crappy plastic gears are worn out and the cogs don’t do anything anymore, might try get a return (without saying I went inside).