AirSniper

No because when I push the button for AC I can hear the engine labour from the clutch being engaged on the compressor. The drop isn't as much as it normally would be so I am figuring that something is wrong with the compressor.

Not the film... My car is a money abyss... Wednesday AC working fine... Thursday AC kaput... blowing hot air... Not looking forward to having the AC sorted out... MOT is due in a couple of weeks, I wonder what that will throw up...

I have decided to put my money into a new venture, it's a company that makes coffins and condoms. The company slogan will be "We got you covered, whether you're cumming or going..."

I had asked what they were looking for, when they couldn't come up with a number I said I will look in to how much it costs today (realising that things are more expensive these days) even look at top price I found it hard to get to the claimed value when purchased. I know what £1,000 looks like as I have spent just over £2,000 on kit and other items. The RIF's cost me £270 no batteries and since then I spent another £130 on each adding tracer and a better ETU unit and batteries. Then there are all the pistols I bought, spent nearly £800 on pistols and a bout £300 on kit like vests. So after doing my research, find that at most, todays value is around £615. So I will make my offer and let them think about it.

Its a starting kit for someone who wants to continue to go to airsoft. So I have to work out what they can afford and what the seller will accept because the parents know nothing of the costs involved.

how did she get her driving licence.mp4

I know, the guy keeps on reiterating that he paid a grand for the kit, however upper end I am finding is around £600 new, the CM16 for example I have found for £185 new, and I imagine when he bought it he paid near the £290 mark. Anyway, thanks for the input.

I am wondering what would be a fair depreciation value on a full load out. I am currently basing my offer on a 25% depreciation value. In the load out there is : G&G CM16 Raider (+NiMH battery) WE EU27 pistol (+ 2 additional magazines) Full face masks (x2) Carrier vest Gloves About 15,000 bb's Charger Hard Pistol case Hard carry case (100cm) Optics I spent a fair bit of time hunting down prices on Defcon, BB Guns4less, Zeroone, Patrolbase and random retailers where items were not available anymore on Zero one which is where the guy seems to have bought his kit from, so he stumped up a bit of cash for it, however, top end valuation I have is at best brand new today is £600 and want to know what you guys thing a fair offer would be. I have excluded a couple of items from the depreciation, namely the BB's and one of the face masks. My spreadsheet tells me that £400 would be a good offer.

Flat is 3.7v any lower you risk damaging the cell, I have seen people run theirs down to 2.9v and wonder why the cell is stuffed. I have had a cell overcharge which I wonder why it didn't go chernobyl, when I measured the voltage it was 4.6v. Took that out of service right away. There is only a narrow 0.5v charge range on these things. So a C20 should take very little time to charge. The Nuprol charger I use is the 18W or 4.29 amp charger, from flat (3.7v) they take 20 minutes (average)

Booked and paid months ago. When I posted about it the thread was met with ridicule... Seems that some don't like NAF... IMHO it represents great value for money, 3 nights camping at most campsites would charge you £25 per night per adult... Most people take the 2 night option which is silly IMHO. I guess those that hate don't like to be told that they have to use 0.2g bb's and can't use 0.25's and that their RIFs have to comply to strict limits. I have turned this into an annual thing I do with my son, he loves it and you can't put a price on that as a memory.

Have you heard the news about Subway? They're releasing a new sandwich called "The Titan" Its 5 different meats smashed together in a sub.

Springs wear out, you know your car uses many springs and over time and repeated use through compression and release cycles, they break or loose their ability to provide the required resistance or force. Same for any spring, some springs are made better than others and some are not and in airsoft, don't expect the best quality. Remember where they are made and the type of steel that is used isn't the same as home grown steel. In Airguns you expect something that lasts the lifetime of the rifle but even then, they can fail, my sons HW57, a springer .177 had a failure of the spring because the rifle dieseled and caused the spring to become over stressed and it turned a sub 12 fpe in to a sub 8 fpe rifle. Springs do fatigue and lose their elasticity / tension strength and if you have an ETU that applies precocking to the piston, your spring is under pressure waiting for that release to relax. I had this problem in my RIF where I had the precocking set but didn't let the tension go and what happened was the ratchet and spring went, I had to have a new spring and piston.

A case of "Belief" over "fact" ... People believe that they can do things when in fact they can't. Importing an airgun without a licence to do so is an offence in itself, the weapon may be an FAC weapon, air rifles from America are commonly 100 fpe output which is a definite firearms offence and unless HMRC tested it, they wouldn't know. IMHO the HMRC were seeking to gather VAT and Import tax and then found the guy had no RFD licence... hence the knock knock...

Adder guess, i'd say it were a snake ... For hydration you need the water soluble electrolytes, I got a bottle of elete 240ml, you only need add a couple of 2.5 ml to a liter of water. You can add a flavouring after if you prefer flavoured water, there is a limit on how much to take in one day, according to the bottle, 25ml max per day. I paid £15 for it from Amazon.

I was at my tenis club the other day when a young man came over and said to me "I'm a ball boy" to me... I said "I'm a tit man myself, but whatever floats your boat..."

It doesn't take much... I shoot airguns and I buy 4.52 or 4.53 sized pellets because they work better because of the extra snug fit. A standard 4.5 pellet can vary slightly and the variance of 0.02 can have a big effect on the pellets performance. Air can get past a pellet that is ever so slightly undersized like it can with a BB and a barrel that is not a consistent size ID. Same goes for BB's in airsoft, whilst the BB's may be within a specific tolerance, are the barrels? Unless you are buying a custom made to a specification sized bore, you are at the whim of the machinery that formed the tube that makes your barrel including any deformities no matter how small they are, any blemishes and corrosion. People may scoff all they like, it takes very little to change a BB's performance, which is why you clean your barrel between games, to minimise particulates that have entered the barrel. Anyone who has played at a dusty site will know that the cleaning wad comes out dirty. The exact same issue with powder firearms exists, which is why you clean them after a shooting session and also a regular weekly clean to prevent corrosion build up in the barrel which is the leading cause of gun failure.

Went to a small site in Chesterfield on Saturday. Took my son and a friends Son and now my friends son wants to go again with all his friends... Job done.

Mine take 20 minutes to charge, you telling me I am wrong... Even on the Airsoft sites they will charge batteries for people and guess what, they say, come back in 20 minutes.

Batteries have a load and recovery time... physical fact. The motors cycling the piston ram take time, each actuation takes energy, the more energy you pull from a cell, the slower the BB's get BB's are not perfectly round and do not seal, escaping air will impact as well on the speed. For example, the chron at my game yesterday read 349,329,322,311 with 4 rapid shots through the chrono, ALL AEG's will have progressively slower output unlike HPA. A dirty barrel will also cause loss of fps as power is dissipated in the barrel because of drag. As for the OP, if you run some of those readings through a calculator, a fair few of them run in to an issue with being over the legal 1.3 Joule maximum (aka firearms offence) assuming a standard 0.2g BB and not a 0.18g variety. 393 fps @ 0.2g = 1.43 Joule 384 fps @ 0.2g - 1.37 Joule 376 fps @ 0.2g = 1.31 Joule So either the Chrono is faulty or someone has a naughty RIF.

Lipos are far better, more energy dense and lighter, means with an ETU that allows a higher voltage input, gives better performance. As for bags, I bought a bag for charging cells with and hardly use it, the bag is for when you are "un attended" charging. Fact it only takes 15 to 20 minutes to charge Lipo's is a selling point. Never store Lipos fully charged, they don't tend to last or fair well, monitor the charge once a week and then charge up before use or if the voltage drops below 3.7v or reaches 15% of its capacity, if it falls below 15% then you need to buy new cells. Bad idea doing that because the gas given off is hydrogen fluoride, phosphoryl fluoride and CO2. The gas is toxic...