[What have you made?]

Some gear and shim holders for when the gearbox is in bits. Made from old bearings, brass hook stubs, and some wood offcuts. Can't have them lying around and getting mixed up. 😉

[Gears Stop in Wrong Position, and Spring Guide Moves - V2 gearbox]

52 minutes ago, ak2m4 said:

 

 

Looks like that's either a mp5k or AK long nozzle ?  Grab yourself a M4 nozzle.  Give it a measure first though, get yourself a set of digital calipers.  Spring guide tilt is a pita when testing, this is why I love the e&c shells so much, they use 4 lugs and prevent this.

It is an M5 clone but has an M4 nozzle, so the new nozzle  is the exact length as the original. The cylinder head has changed so could this make a difference?

 

13 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:

so issue number 1 is very common, and not really an issue per-say. essentially the motor and geartrain still has momentum when the cutoff lever trips and will roll round until stopped. it's basically free precocking, as all precocking does is intentionally run the motor a little longer so it stops near the end of travel. a mosfet with active braking will remedy this (although sometimes can go too far and stop the system too quickly giving lockups on semi), a better solution would be a mosfet with precocking which will let you intentionally control where the box stops.

 
I've been thinking about it over night but still have concerns. If this is common then what is it called? Whenever I search for over-spin then always diagnosed by having a double-tap, but this is just the sector gear basically hitting the piston again with no further travel, but why does it happen on both old and new gears and parts?

[Gears Stop in Wrong Position, and Spring Guide Moves - V2 gearbox]

54 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

 

you mean the gearbox noise?

 

The gearbox was perfectly shimmed, it just clunks and isn't smooth firing, but part of that may be the piston guide needing bracing with the stock screw.

[Gears Stop in Wrong Position, and Spring Guide Moves - V2 gearbox]

59 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

so issue number 1 is very common, and not really an issue per-say. essentially the motor and geartrain still has momentum when the cutoff lever trips and will roll round until stopped. it's basically free precocking, as all precocking does is intentionally run the motor a little longer so it stops near the end of travel. a mosfet with active braking will remedy this (although sometimes can go too far and stop the system too quickly giving lockups on semi), a better solution would be a mosfet with precocking which will let you intentionally control where the box stops.

 

issue number 2 i'd say is happening because you're testing it outside of the reciever (going by the picture), assuming this is going to an ar derivative (the sr-15 in your profile) then when you put the gearbox into the reciever and bolt on the buffer tube/stock, the bolt that threads into the back of the box will go into the spring guide and hold it tight to the back of the box, stopping it from tilting.

Okay, that all makes sense, but it sounds pretty awful.
This also means I have other issues with air seal as the fps was jumping between 170 and 230 when first test firing, so I think the nozzle may be the wrong length.

[Gears Stop in Wrong Position, and Spring Guide Moves - V2 gearbox]

Building a DMR from a V2 gearbox, but I have two issues:

1. When firing the gears seem to spin too far until they meet the piston again, so the resting position after a shot is the sector gear partially engaged with the piston and the tappet plate pulling the nozzle back.
Has a high torque motor, SHS piston & head, SHS cylinder & head, and SHS 13:1 gears. Running 11.1v motor with 110 spring, but it's an interim spring as a bigger one will likely be needed to get to DMR power.
Cutoff lever changed for a steel one, but is exactly the same shape as the original.
Same happens with original gears and motor as well. Both sector gear cams only seems to move the cut-off lever a small amount, but it must be working otherwise it would go full-auto.
Tappet plate is moving properly until the first shot, so the issue is not that, it must be the gears rotating too far.
Picture shows what I see immediately on opening the gearbox.
Ignore the bent tappet, it's just because it's now not in the guide, and the anti-reversal was temporarily taken out as well.

 

2. The spring guide moves out of alignment (tilts) every few shots and blocks the piston travel. It's a quick change guide and has the proper seating slots. Anyone had this issue?

[Macks airsoft dreamers of the week thread]

Empty box for a tenner?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/G-G-ARMAMENT-FULL-AIRSOFT-GUN-M4-BOX-CARRY-CASE-CASING-TRAVEL-TOP-FIVE-ENG/324280256265?hash=item4b809c0709:g:5JkAAOSwwgRfTmZ1

[Reglaze My Spex - Lens Inserts]

Nice one, just ordered some through them. Discount code REGLAZE10 gets 10% off as well. 👍

[Playing With a Pacemaker?]

So this is the solution I went with if anyone is interested. £12.95 from Amazon, and seems pretty okay with a nice layer of firm padding.
I'm pointing to where the pacemaker is located in the second picture.
 

[CYMA CM 126]

You should have got a parts diagram with the pistol that should give you some idea.
To me it looks like a simple philips screw inside, take out the silver arm, and it should come off. Looks like a spring and ball-bearing in there as well, so just be careful they don't ping-fuckit into oblivion.

[Charging Lipo AEP via a power bank,and where are my bb's?]

2 hours ago, Rogerborg said:

One note of caution: a typical charger may want to be connected to both the balance plug (the one that you've got exposed) and the main discharge plug.  I know my B6 wants them both. Is the lipo removable, or is it hard-wired in to the gun?

Hard wired.

[Charging Lipo AEP via a power bank,and where are my bb's?]

1 hour ago, Rogerborg said:

4.5A is pretty meaty. If you're being gentle you'd want to charge a lipo at a "1 hour" current, i.e. an amperage that matches its rated capacity.  So a 680mAh battery, you'd charge at 680mA, not 4.5A.

That said, I tend to charge higher, I'm sure most of us do.  But the thing is, it looks as though the USB connector that comes with it is just a dumb wire, there's no actual balance circuitry or cut out in that.

 

So either the battery has the circuitry in it to balance and protect itself, or it doesn't, in which case I'd wonder how it's balancing or not over-charging even off a 1A or 2A USB socket.

 

There's a thread here that starts off a bit spicy but ends up recommending some chargers towards the end of page 1 and onto page 2.

 

 

I guess my tl;dr would be that I'd have to trust that the battery has balance and protection circuitry onboard, and that it would be OK to charge it off a powerbank, but I'd be minded to use one that's limited to maybe 2A in case the assumption about the battery is wrong.

 

Is there any sort of English text in the user manual talking about charging times and currents?

 

Is there a particular reason that you went with an AEP?  I have one, it works, the lipo will certainly help, but in terms of ergonomics, performance and fun, a gas blowback trounces it for most of the year.

 

The USB connector has some LED's in the plug, so it's red and flashing green for charging, and just fully green for fully charged. I guess the thing cuts out when charged.

The documentation advises a charger plug rating of 1-2A, and to use the charging cable until the LED's tell you to stop. Charging time is supposed to be one hour.
I have another charger bank that's rated at 2A, and the phone charger plug I'm using is rated at 1A. I'll try the lower output bank first. Seems a good solution for field charging from a bank.

I may look at the S65 charger, seems a good choice.

I just wanted an intro gun, and because I have no UKARA yet it's a two-tone. I'm still pretty much in isolation as I'm a vulnerable person, so plinking in the garden for a few months until I try some events, have a try on some rental and other players guns, and decide what proper ones to get. 👍
Without any experience at the moment I'm looking at AEP for those as well, or spring sniper for outdoors. Gas is cool, but seems a lot of expense, more failures, and extra maintenance, but I'll keep assessing. The SSP18 does look interesting though. 😎

[Charging Lipo AEP via a power bank,and where are my bb's?]

16 minutes ago, MadMole said:

Any USB charger will do as long as it has a sufficiently high Ma rating

 

That's the balance charger port for the lipo's as is for charging and measuring individual cells. the other connector is for discharging and is connected across the full pack

 

Unless it says Nuprol on it anywhere the charger is fine for 1 battery, but you will need more than 1 battery for a days play

Sorry, completely new so still learning.

The gun battery is a 680mAh Lipo at 7.4V, so will this not last a day? Can you not charge them between games if I bring a charger, or are there no power points available at most sites? The power bank I have puts out 4.5A at 5v, regular USB so assuming this will be enough, or  will it be too much? Don't want to break the battery just as I've got it. 🙂

Was after the name of the actual connector type so I can get a suitable adaptor cable if I get a third-party charger.
 

[Charging Lipo AEP via a power bank,and where are my bb's?]

New player. Just bought a factory CM.126 mosfet edition from PatrolBase to start off with but it came without any BB's, and just a USB charger for charging. so some questions:

1. Instructions say to plug it into any standard USB phone charger plug and it's good to go, so I did this to charge it, but can I also use a phone power bank to charge it on the go as well?

2. Is this USB charger okay to use long-term, or should I get a proper Lipo charger?

3. What type of connector is this?

 

4. Are my bb's missing because perhaps you can't ship ammo and the gun together in the UK, or did they just not put them in? I have some decent ones already to use and wouldn't have used these anyway, but still strange none came with it.

 

[Playing With a Pacemaker?]

7 hours ago, clumpyedge said:

Speaking as someone that works on a site, I would want to know straight off the bat if you have a pacemaker fitted as IF the worst did happen and you didn't have a buddy with you that knows you have one and an ambulance does need to be called for whatever reason then its information that can be passed to the attending crew. You don't have to disclose that to anyone but the site owner/marshals.

 

We had someone on site who chose not to disclose medical issues and it was lucky a friend knew all of them as when the crews arrived to help when she had an episode they could treat the player as required had they not had the information the potential for things to go awry turned out to be fairly high.

Good point. I'll buddy up with my brother as he knows the score.
To be fair, even if it does fail it's probably not going to effect me immediately and cause a medical emergency.

 

 

6 hours ago, Tackle said:

Bout £35, + instant muscles = win win😁 

Serious though, shirt like this & a small grab bag for mags/water/chocky & your ready to go, lightweight, cheap & non sweat inducing, definitely make your first few games easier while you find your "role/playing style".

 

I was thinking something more discrete. 😄

[Playing With a Pacemaker?]

4 hours ago, Minimi124246 said:

Honestly Probably, the magnetic field from an AEG motor will should not interfere with a pacemaker. As I'm sure you've seen the big ring magnets we use to disable and reset them it takes quite a bit of strength from the magnetic field. The main issue would be the reason for the pacemaker; HOCM, 2nd/3rd block, AF, etc. If you are fit enough to partake in moderate exercise normally, Airsoft really shouldn't be a problem with a pacemaker - just take it steady and do what you are comfortable with. Any chest pain or breathlessness that's unusual then cool it down and take appropriate steps for you if it doesn't subside with rest. 

It's an intermittent right sided AV block. I also have a stent 🙂.  I have some professional experience of cardiology, but the EP / Tachycardia side rather than the devices / angiography stuff, so your advice is appreciated.
I'll take it easy for sure, just want to be out and about doing something enjoyable.

 

 

5 hours ago, Tackle said:

Other thing is, while it might be advisable to wear something on your chest to reduce the chance of an impact in the heart area, I don't recommend getting a full on plate carrier, if your not in tip top fitness then wrapping your self in layers of tactical nylon will just put you under more physical load & heat, better to consider a chest rig of some sort, such as a warrior 901 which has an extendable "bib" piece that covers much of the upper chest, but leaves your back open to allow heat to escape etc.

Plus many chest rigs have an accessible double layer, allowing you to put a thin layer of something in the middle to further stiffen/harden the front area, I'd recommend something like correx, a light corrugated plastic.

Thanks for that. I've been looking round and found some dedicated sports orientated stuff to protect that area (Paceguard and Vital Beat), which are just really shirts with a pocket for removable padding, but it's all expensive and is designed to fit only over the specific area. I can see it moving around with activity, and not covering the odd angles that impacts may come from when being shot, so something more general like the chest rig may be better to cover the surrounding area and the routes into the pacemaker, as well as the pacemaker itself. The pacemaker is located a few inches below the left shoulder blade, so chest protection would need to cover that area which is tricky, as the ones I've seen are tend to be centred on the main mass but leave the upper corners of the chest area exposed.
I also looked at padded shooting shirts, but with the padding on the left for lefty shooters, but it may have the same problem of not covering the full area.

[Playing With a Pacemaker?]

Thanks for all the replies guys. I have a younger brother who used to play so will ask him to buddy up the first time.
I have the pacemaker on the left side, and am left handed, but luckily fire right sided so shouldn't be an issue.
I'm in Swindon.
I kind of feel like I will be the a**hole guy at the back, walking around and sneaking kills. 😉
It seems the best route is don't ask don't tell, then any issues are my own.

[Playing With a Pacemaker?]

Is there any restriction at UK sites with having a pacemaker fitted and playing? Just want to try it out, but don't want to book and waste time & money if they won't let me play, and details of individual sites health requirements seem very light on the ground.
Do they ask you to sign a medical form or anything similar?

The only thing I can find online is this one German site which restricts access, but nothing in the UK.
https://airsoftpark.tirol/en/rules/safety
I plan to wear some kind of protective vest if I do play, but want to know if they'll let me in even without vest.
Thanks