concretesnail

Unless you see the bounce or ricochet then call it.

Well it might have to stay wish list for a while as I've just started pricing it up, but mws is now at the top of the list, bumping the akx down a spot.

If ak2m4 is doing his own barrels then I'd be tempted to try those too to be fair. Ak2m4 is my usual go to for parts.

I know a proportion of us love a movie replica, but a good few beers and predator on film 4.... damn I want to build a m16a2 with the under barrel gl. I know someone here must have done it, as angrygun produce the receiver set, someone please put me out of my misery and show me a build as its a wish list for me, and not likely to get done anytime soon.

I've found zci barrels very good and solid fit with maple leaf rubbers when it comes to the window. I used them for a dmr setup and again when I changed the barrel length.

I know its not quite the brief but consider the jg bar 10. They are about the £100 and are a vsr clone. It's been a staple bolt action in the hobby for long time. They arentnbad from the box and of tou wanted to upgrade parts then there's plenty of scope and if not they usually sell well on the pre owned market.

The battery might be fine in other aegs but different aeg, even if theybare the same model could be drawing more than the battery can cope with. I would seriously consider trying a lipo battery, as the symptoms you describe sound very much like voltage sag.

Earshot communications and a few other places sell the boom mic and down lead, they aren't cheap. If you search Google the model number on the down lead you should be able to find it. As for second hand value, I'm not sure, I haven't seen many pop up. Sorry I know that doesn't help a great deal, I'd follow the 60% rule of thumb.

He does get there eventually but it it tool repeated messages and i had to offer the answer and have it confirmed. Bearing in mind I'm that some may call an experienced player, and of the older (possibly more sensible :)) aged bracket. Its not a great first point of contact impression. @Pupa2794I don't know if it's anything to do with Stafford militaria. I've only played one battlesim with Stafford militaria, so not enough to form a judgement on them but that day I saw some of the worst hpa idiocy, including someone cutting of the cable tie lock and just winding up the pressure mid game. They got all annoyed when I questioned wtf they were doing.

Not being on social media finding site via their presence their is difficult as there's limits to what I can see without accounts. I was instructed to use an app called spaces, which was very poor, to book and communicate with the company. It was through that app I had contact with them. I was a little concerned, as hitman pointed out, that the initial message made very little sense and could be read a little like a "we don't understand our own limits" situation. Which is why I pressed for clarification. I've played some cqb sites over the years where they have been so poorly run it borders on negligence. That being said now that I get so few chances to play these days I'd rather not waste the chance on some where poor.

Afternoon all. Has anyone here played, or attended the siege project in Stoke, linked to or run by Sierra airsoft possibly? I ask as I found out about it and I'm curious as it's not too far away from me but their system doesn't readily give out information so I contacted them and got odd replies that then required additional clarification. (See pictures) I asked about site limits and rules as cqb sites I've played in the past have weight limits for bbs as well as fps limits/joule limits and an evening game is £25 which would be wasted if I couldn't meet rules. Is the hap-hazard, almost mis-information, from who ever answered my query likely to reflect the way they run their site?

Warrior assault system. I used repro before and was disappointed in the durability. Moved over to warrior kit after trying some at a game site. I've been using warrior kit ever since. Current plate carrier setup is an rpc. Placard system but you can use molle placard panels to build you own interchangeable setups, that's what I do. Quick addition, I've tried some of the newer viper stuff, it's a mixed bag. If you stay within the viper range then stuff fits together but the clips need modification or replacement if you want it to fit with real steel kit.

Common sense is key and if in doubt, throw it out. I've seen and caused a fair few lipo fires and abuse is always a trigger, although that's much korw common in fpv flight than airsoft I think.

Lithium batteries release oxygen when the burn so an air tight container doesn't really help matters. An ammo tin with the rubber seal removed is a good start, a battery safe is better. It's a box to contain the batteries with a filter built into the lid. I use an ammo tin for storage of lipos, with the seal removed and bat-safe box for parallel charging lipos.

I don't like the look of the thing, but I love my mp9. Having said that if it brings a parts catalogue to the UK then I'll be please as my mp9s hammer gave way last time out.

So tasty. Love that it is a gbbr.

I would look to a battery grip or a battery peq box, personally I favour the grip battery over the peq. Regards pouches. Warrior make g36 pouches which are very good for the standard mags, with the clips. Triple AK pouches also hold 2 g36 mags which are linked together. Third option, pts g36 mags fit standard stanag pouches, I use warrior bungee pouches with mine.

That's basically what happens at anzio but I know first and only have other sites with specific rules, indoor cqb etc. I think the website tries to umbrella it for all sites and gets messy. It needs rewrite, a case of keep it simple. Display the site limit in joules for each class and the chrono rules. Eg. Chrono on game weight, if it's over the limit back in the car it goes etc. Say that there will be Spot checks and the consequences of failing a check in game. Done.

Anzio has had hpa limits listed separately for a while but and there on site measurements have been consistent when I've been there. However their website doesn't help matters as it lists limits then maximum variances up to a hard limit. The language used makes it more confusing than it needs to be, like they are trying to show a rule of thumb for builders and that fact some rifs chrono differently due to weather or drying seals etc.

Krylon is my go to. It can be found for a good price, application is easy and the finish is lovely and matt. I use it for all sorts of paint jobs not just painting rifs.

I found my g&g only like 3s packs. I run tattu 1050 3s packs which are 75c if memory serves and max draw of 150c. They are great. Inad them as flight packs originally but they fit edge on inside stock brilliantly. No good if you have to fit in a buffer tube but if your mxc9 has the foot type it might drop in nicely. If you want to lower the rate of fire to something less frantic then a change of mosfet to the perun etu++ would give you that option and is a direct swap for the g&g unit, along with other options.

I found my g&g only like 3s packs. I run tattu 1050 3s packs which are 75c if memory serves and max draw of 150c. They are great. Inad them as flight packs originally but they fit edge on inside stock brilliantly. No good if you have to fit in a buffer tube but if your mxc9 has the foot type it might drop in nicely.

I fly fpv quads, mostly micos whoops currently. Ive not tried planes, the closest I've got was wind flight. @EDcaseif you have you analog setup you can do headtracking is much cheaper than trying to do it digitally. I had a headtracking module with my fatshark goggles.

I'd look to maple leaf rubber and you can either by a box of orings to try sizes or search for a vsr10 piston oring , it's usually about 18mm unless the laylax change the cylinder inner diameter.

M150 and only 260 fps, I'd be going straight to the air seal parts. Start with a flash rubber in the hopup and new orings they feel lubed but if they have lost a little mass then you'll be loosing the seal.