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Cipher-032

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Posts posted by Cipher-032

  1. Dropped a small bomb, ouch my credit card:
     

    • Genuine Magpul B.A.D Lever
    • PTS BCM M lok Rail covers
    • Enhanced trigger spring set for the MWS
    • Guns modify adjustable trigger for the MWS
    • FMA PEQ box
    • 150rd Speed loader. Can never have enough of them
    • KJW fill valve. Vain hope it fits my ASG MK23 mag. Cant see why it couldnt.

    *Still waiting on his Taiwan Gun order*

  2. Took the plunge and bought the full metal Magpul Cyma shotty, sling, shells, bandoleer. Free bag and admin pouch? Yes please! 

    Looking forward to see how things go after seeing all the good here. 

  3. So after a iffy afternoon, the MP7 held up, and didn’t break. Running stock recoil spring and white gas she fired 330FPS on sight chrono with Nuprol 1.0.  shot true and far, and got many kills. Mags become lack luster towards the end. So going to swap gas routes back round and see if that helps. But it’s likely the gas.

     

    i love how small the gun is and how easy it is to run with it. Brilliant!

     

    33453FCE-20B5-4AD6-8EE4-B9D2F4A56A03.jpeg

  4. Can some one confirm for me what type of barrel nut fits the upper? (I know you need an adaptor ring, ive got one on mine right now)

    I see some MWS's with AEG on them. So im slightly bamboozled. Or will the MWS fit AEG and GBB barrel nuts?

    Trying to hunt down a new rail for my PDW idea. 

    Said Idea: MC6 PDW. I fancy doing some thing similar. I have the G&P stock, just trying to find a nice M lok rail.

    MC6-PDW-1.jpg

  5. 31 minutes ago, Snow Leopard said:

    Hi guys!

    Tell me, was anyone have experience installing real combat buffer tube Mil-Spec on TM MWS?

     

    The fact that I want to put a real pipe from Geissele, but I do not know whether it will fit or not and do not want to risk.

     

    Tube:

    https://geissele.com/premium-mil-spec-buffer-tube.html



    "NOTICE: We do not sell or ship our products outside of the Continental United States. Export of the commodities described herein is strictly prohibited without a valid export license issued by the U.S. Department of State, Office of Defense Trade Controls, prescribed in the International Traffic in Arms Regulation (ITAR). We are unable to ship these items to foreign addresses, including APO/FPO addresses for deployed service members."

    Sorry to burst your bubble... unless you are in the USA, or have a friend in the USA.

  6. 19 hours ago, Wo1f said:

    To stop the cases cracking at the pin point buy the rear sling mount. The metal bracket secures the pin to it and eases pressure off the frame. I’ve got one fitted after breaking mine and it’s been great since. 


    Im guessing thats how some one singed it in the past. It came with a magpul style RIS sling point with the gun.

  7. Okay, so actual progress now!

     

    i did my sear mod. 2mm drill bit, extra due care, some glue and 2mm rod.

     

    Rack the gun, she shoots,

     

    bolt locked back? New mag in and send it home, she shoots.

     

    Much more reliable now! Hopefully she stays that way so I can use it for a game!

    27021F82-E203-4768-B99A-C5F90310C819.jpeg

    7CD40125-73D6-412E-A22C-D329755A09A6.jpeg

    17BBD6A0-3828-443B-87F8-7A817AE812F3.jpeg

     

  8. 25 minutes ago, Wo1f said:

    Did you not try the trigger mod?


    I did, and as I assumed, its the bolt not contacting the full auto sear. You can add all the tape you want to the trigger bar. Its the bolt that has to contact that sear, to release the hammer. The trigger bar doesnt effect it. The best way to simulate this is by removing the chassis from the body.
    Remove the trigger bar and spring
    Pull down the hammer by hand.
    Then pull the semi sear (The part the trigger bar connects to) all the way forward. I guarantee nothing happens. 
    Reach in and push the Auto sear forward, and the hammer will now fall once you pull the semi sear.
    Unless the newer sears are modified slightly, and my MP7 has a very worn out sear/older design. The only fix is to add material to the auto sear, the bolt, or use a stronger recoil spring

  9. The cost to play, rather reoccurring games, and medic rule are what stops me from playing there.

    I seriously hate making a 60+ shot with a sniper rifle, scoring a good hit, only for said player to be tapped on the shoulder to be "Medic* back into the game. Pointless. And to top it off this can be done twice.

    The site is great, dont get me wrong. But I find it hard to cough up £35 compared to what I used to get at UCAP Sandpit. Maybe add some variation to the games, and have a 10 second regen rule. Make it worth reviving a player worth a risk. Not just run past him and tap his back sort of thing.

  10. 8 hours ago, bapexxx said:

    Hi guys I need a bit of advice and recommendation. I'm currently using 370mm inner barrel and want to run a silencer set up. Which rail and silencer and outer barrel do you guys recommend?


    Totally depends on the gun you are building. Why not just run a Suppressor on the end of your current set up, and see how it feels to use?

    If its too long, shorted the rail  and outer barrel, and allow the inner barrel to run into the suppressor

  11. 22 hours ago, jcheeseright said:

    150% recoil spring may be a bit much,it'll sap your gas usage loads. 

     

    I used to use a 120% and that was fine. 


    Cant really find parts for it any where to be frank. Only one I found was the 150% spring. So its that, or modify the sear. Which im considering doing. 

    I always have a tin of gas with me on the field so if I run out, its not an issue.

  12. So I made a break though with the MP7 today.

    Parts came from Eagle 6. New rocket valve and the dodad that holds it in. The OEM Rocket valve is much smaller and has a restricter in place. FPS is now 310 on White, and 330 on green! WHOOOO!

    We are finally making steps! Now to swap gas routers and see which provide a better seal. Most likely TM.

    My 150% recoil spring is now dispatched from china, which will solve the dead trigger for sure.

    Also renamed the thread for something more fitting.

    Keep tuned for more things to go wrong. Im sure they will!
     

  13. @Wo1f, the bolt is failing to engage the full auto sear, which causes the dead trigger. I might try what you’ve suggested. Either that or I’m adding some rod to the bolt to contact it sooner

     

    @heroshark, I have the one you linked fitted to the gun. Granted it fires at about 1.1j on a 2 with Nuprol 1

     

    also the rocket valve decided to go boom in good fashion today! So the MP7 didnt get used. A lot of carnage in the barrel. 

    image.jpg

  14. Found the guy, he’s called Rouge some thing. He explains the issue well, says to make the sear spring “lighter”. 

     

    Ive trimmed the said spring. And makes little difference. The issue is the bolt not hitting home with enough force to hit the sear. He also said that a 150% recoil spring will help the issue. So I’ve found a creation recoil spring and ordered it from China.

     

    ive also polished the chassis and bolt for extra cyclic rate.

     

    @Wo1f, the nineball routes help keep the FPS down a touch but offer good efficiency still. Once I can nab a stock nozzle I will. Just hope they can stand Nuprol 1. If not I have spares!

    C3F2B8F1-FDBA-4D51-83F2-1150BD8777C9.jpeg

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