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PewPewLoki
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Posts posted by PewPewLoki
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56 minutes ago, Khyber said:
I presume the gas tube running from the gas block/front sight back to the receiver is inert? Am i correct? If so is it possible to run the rifle without the front sight and gas tube leaving the hand guard / rail free floating.
It is indeed. Just a solid metal stick for appearance's sake. Looks nice and realistic when you can see it running through the inside of an M-Lok handguard, but hardly a functional part. -
18 minutes ago, Davegolf said:
Yes if you compare the SAA to a genuine TM mag youll see the top plate is 'taller' than it should be, therefor holding the bucking away from the nozzle.
As is the case always with the MWS, keep as many stock parts as you can.
I did a lot of testing with a customers SAA vs TM mags (he had like 12 in total) and the SAA fill valve would not allow a full fill (tested by weight of liquid gas taken on), and as you found the exit valves spring pressure / knocker length isnt quite right either.
Ha, I didn't even get as far as the not-allowing-a-full-fill issue. The brass centre pin would fall out of the threaded housing and either into the gas chamber in the mag, or out into a muddy field...
I've just measured up my TM and SAA mags and whaddya know? It does sit higher. I know what this evening's shenanigans will be.3 minutes ago, Panama said:Sure, send me a couple and I will try them for you 😆
Nice try! I already spent more money than I'd care to recount on 10 TM mags, 5 SAAs and 5 G&P 'stendos. I'll let someone else foot that bill...
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13 minutes ago, Davegolf said:
Yeh i completely get that, if you wanna run PMAGs you gotta shell out.
You neeed the SAA mags, TM fill and exit valves, sand down the top plate for correct insertion depth - this is what your FPS / gas route issue actually is.
Shame TM dont just make some modern mags, i mean come on Marui we are not still in the 80s!
Oh ffs, it's the actual depth the mag is seated at?! You may have just saved me a few quid there - I had some Guarder routers in my basket and was about to checkout.
I didn't even think to check that, because I assumed that's something that these companies would... y'know... 'get right'... -
1 hour ago, Davegolf said:
What troubles with the SAA mags?
Leaky release valves from get-go. Replaced the release valves with some PTS Hi-Capa ones. Leak fixed.
Fill valves fell apart on 3 of my 5 mags while in-game (and in a pouch). Replaced with stock TM ones. So far so good.
Weird seal issues with the gas router causing really slugging performance and ridiculously low fps (sub 100 on a .2). Replaced that with a RunIn Workshop purple one. Issue continues and I'm not sure why - possibly pushing up on the bottom of the carrier? I'd heard the Guarder routers seem to fix that, but not tried yet.
Just feels like I've spent a hell of a lot of money on mags that cost more than stock TM ones and perform way worse. -
New GunsModify PMAGs just dropped!
Anyone fancy being the AFUK guinea pig? I already wasted a fortune on the Ace1Arms/SAA and G&P offerings... -
3 hours ago, Captain Darling said:
Now there's a familiar MWS. Looks just like one I saw at the remains of Anzio's wooden Firing Range structure at the end of June...
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I don't have any of the PTS/LM4 platform rifles, so take this with a grain of salt, but from what I understand this is caused by the mags being 'double-stacked' and the feed lips presenting 2 BBs. The nozzle is supposed to only strip the top BB off the lips, but instead manages to grab 2, causing fun times like you mentioned - more of a design flaw than anything caused by usage or bad QC. I'm also told that this is widespread across all KWA/PTS rifles including the Tavor and ACR/Masada, but is less prevalent in the plastic mags than the metal ones.
A company called Unifeed makes replacement lips and followers, which you can use instead of the PTS/KWA ones so that the mag only presents 1 BB to be picked up by the nozzle and hopefully preventing the doublefeed issue. Might be worth looking into them.
Left and Right are PTS/KWA magazines as they come out of the factory. Middle is with the Unifeed lips and follower installed.
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I'm really happy to know someone else watches these livestreams instead of doing anything productive with their time.
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I've actually hit fewer customs charges and taxes since leaving, though that may just be luck on my part. It should be noted that leaving the EU should have had no difference on packages from Hong Kong, but it's not always clear if things are as simple as we mere consumers assume they are.
Can't speak for everyone else's experience, but Covid has been more of an impact than Brexit for me. Parcels being quarantined in customs for 2-4 weeks has been a bit of a pain, tbh.
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6 hours ago, Hypokondrikern said:
Interesting find. I believed that the leak was from the middle of the mag where the two halves meet. That was at least how I got one leak free - simply by merging them with steel epoxy. Anyway, good to know that the valve is 1911 spec for Easy replacement.
The question is however, did they become leak free after you changed out the valve?
Also, could you clarify what o-ring it is that have created the maracas, and where it sits on the valve? I didn’t quite get that ( p.s haven’t seen this o-ring floating around in mind )
Yeah, just replaced all 5 o-rings and a perfect gas seal now. Used Lees Precision rings from their MWS kit and made sure to keep everything nicely oiled and not overtightened.
I've circled the specific one that was missing on all my valves below, (though this is a photo of a different valve brand and not the exact same ones SAA use). If it's missing from your valve, but you can't see/hear it, it may be stuck on the threads the valve uses to screw into place. You might be able to unseat it using a toothpick or a small screwdriver if so.
- Hypokondrikern and camden
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Hey folks, not sure if this has already come up in this thread (I searched and couldn't find anything, and apologies, but I couldn't bring myself to read through all 190 pages of posts) but a quick random one for anyone looking to buy (or having bought and regretted buying) the SAA/Ace 1 Arms PMags:
Have you noticed yours are leaky AF? Mine were. Could barely rattle off 4 shots. So I bought the G&P 'stendos, which seem decent, but still not amazing. However, if you open up the SAA mags and take the release valves out, you'll not only notice that they're standard TM-spec 1911/MWS valves (easily replaced/repaired), but you'll probably also find a seal rattling around the inside of your mag. As you can see from the attached picture, not only have they completely come off the valves, but they're also flat and hard and torn. Replace these with TM or LPE or even WE/Army, and you'll have a way better time with them.
Not sure where SAA/Ace 1 get their seals from, but this is pretty shocking.
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41 minutes ago, Davegolf said:
Imagining @[Rogues]Loki trying to stealth refill inside an opposition building 😆
Haha, I have done that before, and it ended about as badly as you'd expect...
But no, it's not so much the sound that I'm interested in, so much as the economy. I lose a lot of gas in the filling process. And contrary to popular opinion, the MWS mags do not actually have a 'blow-off' valve to remove excess. It's a standard TM pistol magazine valve, seated inside a threaded brass 'collar'. My theory is that the TM valves don't have o-rings to prevent gas escaping during filling, and the Nineball ones seat so low that the nozzle from my gas tank isn't long enough to make a perfect seal. I wasn't sure if anyone has managed to overcome the gas escape during filling, and if they had any clever suggestions.
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Hey folks, slight change of topic. Anyone found a surefire way to get silent filling? My valves didn't come with o-rings, and Nineball fill valves don't seem to help much (they seem to sit too low leaving a few mm of thread exposed).
Is it just a case of buying a pack of o-rings and sticking them on the stock valves?
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2 minutes ago, Cipher-032 said:
@[Rogues]Loki let us know how you get on with the S+ barrel. Bit of a interesting set up.
Will do. The theory is good - have the BB sat a touch further back and raised up to the middle of the barrel to try and take some of the variance out of the 'starting position'. Be interesting to see how this works in practice. I was hoping to couple it with a Laylax/First Factory chamber too, but it looks like they're out of stock everywhere and I may have to wait until the next batch roll out of Japan.
I'm not playing again until mid-April now, but I'll try and put some time aside to take it to a safe place to set hop and range it and report my findings.
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3 hours ago, KoheiN said:
[Everything KoheiN said]
+1 for TNT. Contacted them as they don't do barrel lengths shorter than 320mm and they sent me out a 250mm S+ barrel same day.
- Wo1f and sonofsammo
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Is the Crazy Jet for MWS a specific model, or is it just the 'Crazy Jet for GBB' that's required? I got the impression the MWS barrels weren't quite VSR/GBB spec.
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11 minutes ago, Wo1f said:
have you tried the TNT TR bucking? Very similar to the maple leaf but squared like an R hop instead of pointed.
Can't say I have. I'll pick one up and try that too. No harm in trying it as they're a reasonable price for a pack of 2. Good shout.
I tried the Modify Tan and while the results were good, they weren't as good as the Maple Leaf setup I've got currently. But then again, at the rate I'm burning through this bucking, I'll be buying a new one every other game, so the rapidly decreasing weight of my wallet would eventually force me to shift to something else anyway.
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1 minute ago, Wo1f said:
What are your specs? And FPS? I’m running 400 FPS on a .20 no idea on joules because I’ve not settled on a BB weight yet. I’ve tested it with .45’s and it will happily send them into orbit😂. Technically it’s an ER hop as the window has been enlarged.
i had great success with the maple leaf, but the tip of the contact area seemed to get damaged after very little use. I figured it was cutting into the tip of the barrel window. I run them in WE GBBR’s though.
Haha, I had the same problem 'til I filed off the teeth of the stock hop arm.
Currently, hitting about 310 on a .2, but like you, not settled on an 'ideal weight' yet. I ran .28s at a game on Sunday and had to dial the hop almost completely off, but I was comfortably hitting targets at about 50m so the accuracy was there. Unfortunately, it was an urban site with very few longer range areas, so I can't get an idea of maximum/effective range. Current hop unit is the stock one which has been modified so the hop arm has no 'teeth' and with the hop window enlarged to accept the Panthera VSR nub, which is like an oversized Omega nub/I-Key, I'm currently running this with a Maple Leaf Autobot 60o and the stock TM barrel, but also like you, I'm seeing damage to the Autobot bucking after one game. Gonna try a Maple Leaf 70o Diamond Monster hop bucking and see if it survives any better. I'll try and post up some pics when I'm not working.
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3 minutes ago, Wo1f said:
Yes a custom machined, R hopped barrel currently in my mk12 for initial testing. Id have posted results but there’s been gale force winds and none stop rain for the past 3 weeks. What I can tell you is it shoots further than my Kingdom of airsoft Real sword svd which has 30 more FPS.
I'd be interested to see if you see any real gains here, because my ultimate plan is to go down this road, but I'd like to see how it compares to my Maple Leaf and Panthera setup and if the fuss of R-hopping is worth the performance increase.
As per the above, when the weather stops being a massive diva, I'll get some range and accuracy tests for science and we can compare notes.
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6 hours ago, Cipher-032 said:
So update on my hop set up. Been running a 300mm crazy jet. Which I’m now going to polish up. TNT TR 50 degree and element H nub. These are plastic. And would work far better than the stock nub. As they are solid. And are cheaper than the brass SIGX one several here are using. Problem is the TNT is a R hop style bucking. And would benefit a larger contact nub.
I had a chopped down prommy bridge nub. Some gentle sanding with a needle file. And she fits. A little snug but still will release the tension when the hop is wound down.
I did something similar, except I filed down a bit more to create a very long window, coupled it with a Maple Leaf Autobot and a Panthera VSR nub (which are stupidly long, probably about another 2mm longer than an I-Key).
I was then overhopping .48s massively, even with 'no hop applied'.
So I sanded down the arm too to take the little prongs off it and I'm now getting Guarder .3s flying in a nice straight path for a very respectable range. Not sure on max range yet as the site I played at today was urban, but I'm comfortably making 50m kills so I can at least vouch for the accuracy and consistency of the setup. When I'm next outdoor, I'll try and bag a rangefinder and stick my scope on it so I can do a proper science for those looking to experiment.
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On the subject of barrels, is anyone aware of any that use a larger hop window? I'm planning on r-hopping and wanna get the most out of the system.
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Perfect! You sir, are a scholar and a gent.
THE TM MWS thread
in Gas Guns
Posted
I do that between game days, or fill them with an oil-gas mix and purge prior to playing. A lot of people (as you may have recently seen on this thread) really rate GunSav, which I haven't tried yet, but sounds like just the ticket. I tried Molykote in the past when I used to run GHKs and WEs, and that seemed to work great, but it was a bit messy and if you accidentally applied too much and left it, it would go brown and start to smell...
With my MWS, just applying a drop of oil once every 3 months or so seems to be enough and the seals have held up really well compared to other competitors in GBBR world.