HuttArmouries

Was selling it but Ive pulled out most of the glocks I was selling apart from the vorsk ones to be doner guns for these projects XD

17 l slide done and working. Taking this and a g19 oht to a game tomorrow and im gonna run them on black gas all day and see what breaks first. Dont mind the horrendus lower. Ill be swapping it out soon enough

Made some design changes to the glock 26 slide as I was getting the most breakages with that one. the most common one was the ring for the front of the guide rod snapping off. In this new version the front barrel and guide rod holes are a seperate piece that slots in which allows me to print it face down and have the layer lines going along it. Will see how well this method works btu it may leave the slide able to flex too much Finished modeling a 17 l slide but unfortunately as I was printing it the heat sensor on my printer died so im waiting for a replacement. Also modeled a 3d printable screw in barrel extension. Its not the strongest thing in the world but it will do for now until I can find a stronger alternative.

Dont have an m9 or 93r on hand unfortunately

I just sold off my plate carrier and have instead switched to a viper mini rig like this with different panels and inserts for different guns. I then have 2 belts, 1 with magazine pouches and a holster and the other with just a general large pouch and a holster

that certainly seems doable but there is the slight issue that my 3d printer has an 18 x 18 x18 cm build area so I dont think id actually be able to print it if I did make it. About 220 is the most I can squeeze out diagonally but the 17l slide is 242 so id probably have to do it in 2 pieces. Edit: my mistake. overall pistol length is 240, slide is 225 so I may just barely be able to get it printed

Fair point. I intend to run the g26 and 19 versions of this as my regular pistols for now to see how they hold up particularly with a red dot mounted to them as im using brass threaded inserts melted into the plastic. going to be interesting to see how they hold up

3 different lengths of 3d printed glock slide. all rmr ready. Planning to do some more custom stuff now the base models are done but I also still need to get my hands on a 34

So ive been in the process of 3d modeling slides for glocks. This started out as me wanting a red dot as low to the slide as possible on my glock 26 and with as little weight as possible and then I decided I may as well make the other lengths. I have 17, 19 and 26 working on raven, we and kj works glocks and now I have the models I may as well make some custom stuff. Is there anything in particular people would like to see? I will probably be making some durability changes such as making the spring guide hole a seperate piece that prints in a different orientation but the slides already work very well. There is a noticable increase in snappiness too on we and such since this is a ton lighter than their normal slides. Ill be putting a bunch of rounds through them to see how durable they are but these first versions are just in pla filament anyway.

Same as a normal tag shell. The co2 adapter is just a quick way to refil it between shots. Im not sure how doubling the barrel length will affect something like this but ill be running it over a chrono to compare when its built. The shells are designed to be the same weight as standard tag ones too. Ill probably lose a fair bit of pressure as 3d printed parts arent exactly air tight. Ideally id want something with about 2/3 of the velicity of a normal tag round. Regular ones are a bit spicy for me to risk using on bunkers and stuff

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Afraid I dont know anyone with a laser engraver though in future I may be picking one up for the workshop. Thats a long way off though. Right now Im working on a home made tag grenade launcher based on the msbs grot grenade launcher so Ive not worked on the bren at all. Also very easily distracted >_>

Nope. Nothing yet

So im looking into modeling and printing myself a sort of modular bullpup kit in a similar vein to the polish msbs grot which can have a couple of pins pulled and be changed from standard rifle to bulpup. Though Im not sure if ill get around to the modularity aspect I do still intend to build myself a bulpup of some sort based on a v3 gearbox. Done a lot of repairs and builds but internal upgrades are definately a spot im lacking knowledge. When I last looked into this many years ago there weren't really any good options for sticking a microswitch outside of the gearbox at the front of the gun to get rid of the mushy trigger and I was wondering if there was a good option for that these days? I know the p90 and aug perun units exist but Id prefer something simpler that just has a microswitch behind the trigger and everything else happening inside the gearbox. If not ill just build it anyway with a trigger linkage but I though it was worth asking. Thanks in advance for the help!

I have preordered one and it was supposed to be delivered a week ago but it seems they are having trouble getting them shipped. Ill let you know what its like when it arrives. Edit: had a look at the listing on airsoft world and its now marked as in stock at their eu warehouse so hopefully ill have it in hand soon

now ready to start making it more pretty. I am getting rid of the little overhang at the back. This sro is just a little chunky width wise. I also have some specialised nuts coming which should let me shave another mm off the height of the slide.

Been doing a bit more 3d modeling. got a fully functional slide for my glock 26 though its obviously not prettified yet. My aim is to make a dedicated red dot capable slide as I dont like how high adapter plates make them sit and I want it to be light as possible. To this end ive also got myself a cheap plastic bodied sro off aliexpress for this project. Also made some extended baseplates to slot over glock 19 mags as I dont really like grip extensions and think this looks better XD. planning to eventually do g17, g34 and g19 slides with doctor and rmr mount options. Also vaugely considering an integral muzzle break more for the fact it will reinforce the hole the spring guide goes. Id ideally like to keep this package as compact as possible though.

yep. first version used aluminium tubing but It was just easier to get all of the little vent holes and bits printed directly into it

Working on making a hk21 machinegun out of an old jg g3. The handguard is nearly done but I still need to make the outer barrel and barrel swap handle. Then its onto makeing an adapter to make the magwell look like its belt fed. Planning to make a snap in piece that I can attach a modified cmag to with a box around it. Should be able to just pull the adaptor and switch to using normal mags just fine if I need. not going for 100% accurate. Im going for the overall look with a few quality of life things like picatinny for a foregrip and bipod.

Still in progress but has been sidelined as I need to do other projects to make money. Ive gone with the version 3 gearbox and custom hop unit option but its a lot of printing, testing, tweaking and repeat so ive got other projects that are much quicker to finish

Yeah had a look. I can get the mosfet from the us for about the same price as just buying a cyma gearbox so im just gonna shove one of those in it.

Recently picked up ptw ar15 pdw very cheap as a boneyard. After some poking around inside it seems the mosfet is dead but the only replacements I can find are in the us. Im looking for a uk available alternative. not looking for the highest of the highest end. Just something that will get it working.

So I got this in a joblot and im not sure what to charge for it. Ive seen ones without the wraith stock listed for anything from £700 up to 1k. Comes with battery, tank, 4 epm 1 mags and an eotech clone. The o ring on the top of the tank is slightly damaged so it has a very small leak when screwed in but other than that its in full working condition and shoots beautifully. Also comes with an adaptor so you can use a line and the tank on your back.

Thanks very much!

Heyo. Just got a wolverine in a joblot of stuff and on testing it its shooting consistently around the 370fps mark. I have never worked on hpa guns before so I have no idea how to lower that. Its using a tank that screws into the rear rather than a hose. Just want to bring it down to around the 340 mark.