Rogerborg

I'm coming to believe that all of the posts at airsoft-hub should get flagged as "suspicious". Isn't that the site that had what purported to be a real Glock 17? [EDIT] no, usedairsoft, and it's still there. So airsoft-hub at least wins out in allowing flagging of dodgy deals, not that anything ever seems to get done about them. https://www.usedairsoft.co.uk/two-tone-replicas/glock-17-m-o-s-gen-5-in-9mm-like-new_i47256

Seen his other listings? I shudder to think what state his "crip" will be in when he moves out. I'm thinking foil over the windows and a lot of UV lights.

It appears to be the not-very-quick-change version that requires the gearbox to be taken out, as opposed to the Edge/Orion boxes where you can go straight in through the back passage. Sadly, price inflation means a an Edge 2.0 / GATE ASTER model will run you close to £300. Unless you really want a pot-metal body, I'm still not seeing any compelling reason to look beyond the Double Eagle M9xx range.

Damn, that's a neat job, I wouldn't have guessed.

That's a weird one. The higher current flow through a MOSFET might encourage overspin, but as you say, that one is specifically designed to prevent it. The PicoAAB doesn't have any programming, right, it's just fit-and-regret? I don't suppose "Fit a Perun AB++ instead" is going to be a popular option?

Not thee, them. https://airsoft-forums.uk/profile/36875-lesteraction/

Ahoy and welcome, Dave. As above, going solo is absolutely fine. Any decent site will do an induction for rentals, and airsofters tend to be a friendly bunch - you'll always find folk keen to help out if you say "It's my first day." Ask someone about their gun and see if you can get them to shut up.

Noice. I assume the Perun pre-cocks based on timing. I find that it does help a little if you get the right setting, but that V3 trigger limits the snappiness. If - when - you go to 11.1V then it all pays off, especially the active-brake, ROF reduction, and burst modes.

Has he been bumping the same advert for over a year without bothering to update the picture? Can't fault the resolve.

About that...

They still are now. I've seen these things go off at people's feet and they simply don't notice them. They might have gone off at mine, for all I know. Gas grenades that go "pop" (by bursting a thin plastic disc) are a bit louder, but still underwhelming compared to even a .209 blank.

Depends on the doggo, working breeds put up with worse. Some sadistic wit is going to lob pyro at it or brrrt it eventually though, because people are worse than dogs. I wouldn't be happy about it, but I probably wouldn't quit a site over it. However, I'd stay well away during games.

"the Licensee and any person authorised to act on the Licensee’s behalf" On the face of it, it's vague enough that (just for example) UKAPU could buy a licence and authorise any airsofter to use it. Which would be hugely cheeky, but I doubt that there's any proactive enforcement going on. As long as you're sticking to the allocated frequencies (or PMR frequencies), is anybody ever going to know or care?

Oh, right, I've just seen the video, I had to download it to get it to play. That... urgh... Nuprol battery and the polarity should be OK, although NiMh is old technology and I wouldn't spend one penny more on it. A 7.4V lipo will do the same job. The basic-bitch mosfet in the Edge can get stroppy at higher voltages and motor draws, but would flash red if so. As @Dan Robinson says, it should flash green when you plug the battery in. If the mosfet isn't flashing green it's misbehaving (or conceivably the batteries are total duds, or your charger has discharged them - some NiMh "smart" chargers can be worse than useless, and Nuprul gonna Nuprol). If you're getting the green flash on connection, then the motor terminal connections are a good shout. It looks like you have the quick-access grip with a squeeze-to-open latch (that's actually a terrible idea normally, but which will be handy here). Be careful when you remove the base plate, there's a little disk in there which sits under the motor that loves to fall out and get lost. Although since this is brand new, I would also agree that the best thing to do is to call the retailer and have them talk you through it, because at least then you'll be doing things under their instruction and they'll be less able to argue the toss on it if it does have to go back. It probably is something simple, that's not a fire-control mosfet, just a simple relay, and there's not much to go wrong there.

Yarrr, only for Marshalls' Mates.

What came with the gun? The battery, or the adapter? What battery? If you call the retailer that sold it to you on Monday morning, they're going to ask you all the same questions.

Mmm, airsoft spring ratings are more what you'd call guidelines than actual rules. The good news is that it sounds like you've got great airseal, so you can downspring and every other component will thank you for it. While I'll stress that @ak2m4 really does know what he's talking about, it is just possible that you might need to go lower than M100 on an XT spring. I absolutely fluked out on a short-tight-barrel M4 and hit 1.3J with an M100 XT spring and had to drop to an M90 to tame it. But that's a freakish occurrence, and an XT M100 will typically be the sweet spot for UK guns.

Ahoy, welcome, and sorry to hear that you're having issues. Electrical problems are generally something simple. The suggestions above are sound. What battery do you have? What charger, and how do you know it's charged? Is it Deans/T-plug, or Mini-Tamiya connected via the adapter that comes with the Specna? And if it's Mini-Tamiya, is it definitely sold for airsoft use? For no reason that I can figure out, airsoft and RC use opposite polarities on Tamiya connectors.

If you've got the time over the weekend, you might as well cut it while you order up a new spring or two. You're not going to be playing with it anyway, and you'll need to get used to opening the box, so treat it as a dry run and assume you'll mess it up and you can only exceed your expectations. 1.4J is pretty spicy[*], but the power does tend to come down fast, so I'd lop off maybe 1.5 coils, then heat and flatten the end (effectively losing two full coils) and maybe file or grind it super-flat if you're feeling posh. I'm sure there will be screams of horror at this, but if you come out just over, you can just heat and flatten another coil down again rather than cutting it off. If you're ordering up springs from AK2M4, you might as well get some shims while you're at it. If you want to treat yourself, these latch-and-trigger clips are ace. Failing that, some strong magnets can help to keep the gears and ARL square. [*] But stock for a CYMA that's not been modified for the UK market. You're not the first person to be sold a a super-hot gun by a "reputable" retailer.

How big is this shop? If you're getting head sized at 25m, and airsofter sized at 50m, you'll be competitive with 90% of players out there. As above, a barrel and hop rubber clean never goes amiss. Maple Leaf rubbers and Omega nubs are a decent shout for any gun, or you can work on the hop-unit tension, and shimming the barrel if you're really determined.

Mmm, it would be pretty hard to adduce a defence of airsoft use, when it's not an airsoft gun. That's also why it's a little shonky having it in the classifieds here, although realistically speaking, there are more realistic RIFs that are easier to get.

V3 fire selectors can be fussy and fragile. Look at all the weak points on that bad boy! It might have snapped, or hopefully it's just that the toothed part at the rear has disengaged from the turny-part of the fire selector switch. If it's the latter, then it might just be a case of pulling the gearbox/pistol grip out and putting it back together again. Take down isn't particularly complicated, here's Skylar covering it. IIRC (and I may not), you might not even have to take the barrel out in order to wiggle the gearbox out, just the cross-pins, magwell, and the bolt at the rear of the gearbox.

Technically, it's "lower calorie" now.

And a decent enough adver- wait, is that Dr Who with a lightsabre? Bloke's obviously a mental case, avoid!

They go here: https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/ We strongly encourage sellers to take a picture with their username and the date written on a piece of paper in shot with everything being sold (and even more strongly encourage buyers to be wary of adverts that don't do that). If you actually want to sell them, I would recommend listing what they are, and including (or at least listing) any postage and PayPal fees in the price. Best of luck.