Rogerborg

I get that after eating too many sunflower seeds.

Tamiy and Mini-Tamiya can be fitted just with just cut-strip-and-crimping, no soldering required. I suspect that's one reason why they're still commonly used over Deans or XT-60. What's it for? Target plinking, or airsoft skirmishing? The Thomson would be skirmishable, although I'd want to get the energy a bit higher, and finding more magazines might be an issue at the moment. The Kar98 shell ejector is a target plinker only, it'd likely be great fun for that, but with 5 shots, easily lost, I wouldn't take it out on an airsoft field except for pose value. Any bolt action sniper is a poor choice as a first-or-only gun, as snipers are generally built, not bought, and you'll need a secondary as well for close range. See if you can find a fuse and check, replace, or bin it off. If the batteries have charge, you should be able to hear some sort of response from the motor, even if it's just complaining. Airsoft guns are also prone to locking up, where the spring is pulled almost all the way back but not released, then the motor lacks the startup torque to pull it the rest of the way. When motors stall out like that they pull a lot of power, so you may be able to feel the wires, grip, and/or battery heating up if you pull the trigger - this is also a good way to pop the fuse or burn things out, so I wouldn't recommend doing much of it. If it has locked up, you can (in an ideal wold) sort it with a freshly charged or higher voltage or C rated battery, or if not, have to disassemble it and manipulate the anti-reversal latch - I keep a bent kirby grip in my toolbox for this. Sorry, I have no idea about the disassembly procedure for that model, although YouTube might provide some hints. The unlocking should be something like this. The other way to unlock a gearbox, which will have Reddit gasping in horror, is to get it apart far enough to access the gearbox nozzle, then shove a long Allan key or screwdriver up it and push the piston back yourself far enough so that it completes the cycle, being aware that it will then eject the tool forcibly, and you should of course never, ever try this (I've done it a few times). The other possibility is simply a bad wiring connection somewhere, which you'll have to track-and-trace with your multimeter, starting at battery and motor ends and working towards the trigger. If you do have a (plastic) V3 style gearbox then all to the best as trigger contacts tend to be external rather than internal. Again, YouTube will provide, you're looking for "V3 gearbox trigger contacts" or similar. Sorry to be so long winded and vague, most airsoft gun issues are easy to fix, but take some time to diagnose, and are tricky to guess remotely without actually going hands on. If you're intending to stick with airsoft, you might want to view the CM.022 as a cheap way to learn some teching. Many of us have a project gun that we keep around just for tinkering and larks. Holy heck, I missed that. I thought the last exemptions for those were long since phased out.

Yup, Specnas ship with an M120 and an M90 spring for different markets. The M120 isn't much use for the UK, being too hot for an auto-gun, but not quite enough to run it as a semi-auto DMR. The M90 should notionally give you about 295fps on a 0.2g BB, although you may see a bit more. Like a lot of airsoft, "M" numbers aren't well defined but are generally interpreted as meaning metres-per-second with a 0.2g BB, all highly dependent on air seal, barrel and so on. The M90 should be spot on for indoor CQB, but you might want a bit more for woodland. If you do, all Specnas come with a quick change spring system which lets you change the spring... well, quickly. You'll need a long screwdriver, a chonky hex key, and a bit of patience the first time, but it's easy enough to do, and an M95 or M100 spring will run you £6.50 delivered.

It's OK, I hear they're biting the bullet and finally upgrading the Commodore 64 to an Amiga.

At least half: transparent bright red bright orange bright blue bright yellow bright green bright pink bright purple AirsoftWorld likely don't care, they're the chancers who will sell you a bogus "cosplay" defence just so that they can pretend to accept it.

Hah-hah-oh-wow, from AirsoftWorld.net: "Also, the charging times in the manual are wrong. DO NOT follow them as it will kill the battery! Charge the battery for a MAXIMUM of 2.5hrs on the first charge and each subsequent charge from flat should not exceed 2 hours."

Mmm, they do a range of different stuff, and lighting can be peculiar. It's a genuine suggestion to consider, by the way. I have a poncho with a pattern not unlike that, it actually does a very decent job, and I've seen (or rather, not seen) a couple of chaps using those patterns locally. Very dependent on the site and season, but as @RostokMcSpoons truth-bombs having a couple of different sets of camo is small potatoes compared to hundreds or thousands of pounds of wall hangers "backup guns"

If you want concealment rather than a "military loadout" then I would suggest giving civvy camo a fair shake. E.g. see Decathlon's variations on "woodland camo".

It's unlikely that anybody here has one since they are - with apologies and no judgement on you - vendor trash and not suitable for anything except target plinking. So we don't know what connector or battery or charger it comes with - I wouldn't even like to guess what voltage it's running at. I'd be astonished if it's got a Deans connector, but as a wild guess, if it looks like this, that's the connector found on "gel blasters". If you happen to have any other suitable batteries lying around, you could rewire the plug on the gun to match. But I'm going to be honest, in the hope of being helpful: I'd consider everything in that package to be disposable, and wouldn't sink a single penny more into it, unless you actively enjoy the process of tinkering. The metal gearboxed CYMAS starting around £80 (if you can find any in stock) are fine, and as tough as cockroaches. Plastic gearboxes though, I'd consider myself lucky to get through a magazine.

Hmm, I can only find how to do that as a UK VAT registered business, and only for business supplies: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/refunds-of-uk-vat-for-non-uk-businesses-or-eu-vat-for-uk-businesses It doesn't seem like GunFire / TaiwanGun or any other Eurosellers should be charging EuroVAT on exports, as it means it gets paid twice to two different protection rackets. I'd have wonder if they're simply pocketing it as profit. I have similar suspicious about AliExpress sellers who claim to be paying UK VAT and duty at source, so that goods can come through UK customs. Good for us, but I do wonder - are they really paying it, or just slapping a label on the package.

Unless you're really just using an airsoft site as a filming location, like Licking Mustard does. I wish folk like that would find a different venue or hobby, but they do exist. And I do have to point out that the most practical costume for a typical short skirmish game of pretend soldiers is joggers and a couple of hi-caps in your pockets. Rentals are the only ones doing it right.

It is, the Specna is very similar to the ZCI hop and works well. I'm amazed that anyone is still making geared hops at this point. That said, every time I have a go with Ex-Workmate Eddy's basic G&G CM16, I'm reminded just how good it is, even totally stock and completely neglected. I guess G&G keep making them that way because they work just fine.

If we all did our research before writing anything, this would be a pretty empty place. I've learned something from this thread.

Agreed, I don't see much reason to pay C25 prices. They're both polymer, I'm unclear if the C25 is significantly better. The only actual feature difference is the X-ASR mosfet, but that does nothing except trigger contact protection, and mine balks at aftermarket motors. Both are fine for length, anything more than that is just willy-waggling for airsoft use. And don't worry about the quoted FPS figures, those will be using Specna's stock M90 spring. Fine for CQB, just about enough for woodland. Drop in an M100 through the quick-change system and you're good to go. The G&G, hmm. It's a lot more than I'd want to pay for one, given how feature-poor it is. The sight may be functional, or a gimmick. That said, G&Gs do tend to shoot very nicely, and that's what actually matters, not the feature list. You probably won't regret it.

Hmm. A CM028S (for example) is listed at £87.55, or at €101.01, which are about equivalent. So, yes, they shouldn't be billing us to pay protection money to both mobs. However, I don't see a way to not get mugged. One to take up with them, if you can.

Steady on, we all enjoy different things, and (almost) everybody is LARPing to some extent. Even jeans and hoodie can be an anti-snobbery costume.

At this point, if it's in stock, and not a Nuprol, you should probably buy it first, then mention it later.

Thanks for the followup. I hope the mags fit and you get it back into action.

Sell it to me. Sell me your childrens.

My peasant mind can only think about peasant guns. Actually, where did we get the idea that this G&G has a mosfet? The basic CM16s don't, as far as I know, and then we get microswitch triggers which seem to come with their own set of... opportunities.

Well, you don't need a mosfet in any AEG. Even if you're running 11.1V and concerned about arcing, the cheapest mosfet will run you more than two new sets of trigger contacts. The X-ASR in my Specna is coming out, it's only causing me trouble with aftermarket motors.

It's disclosed during checkout. Agreed, it's deliberately deceptive, especially the shipping estimates. However, because they've given them, I'd have (literally) no hesitation in firing in with a PayPal dispute 10 microseconds after their estimate had expired, or if I didn't receive exactly what I'd ordered. Although at this point I'm just going straight to AliExpress because they have their own dispute / chargeback system that seems weighted towards buyers (at the moment).

They did, cycle lights shouldn't strobe at more than 4Hz. Source. That's actually a little fast, as frequencies as low as 3Hz can (rarely) trigger epilepsy. Source. Even as a born again lycropath, I agree that there are some obnoxious lights out there. I run an Cateye "800"[*] lumen retina-burner on my bicycle, but keep it on the least hurty flashing mode while on or near a road, turn it down, and/or cover it with a hand, as necessary. [*] Where we wander vaguely back to airsoft is that lumen claims are all over the place. What I will say is that it's actually uncomfortable shading towards painful to hold an unprotected hand in front of my "800" lumen bicycle light. If you're buying some 100,00,0000 lumen TrueVastWindFire flashlight and don't experience similar toastiness, then you can reset your beliefs about its intensity accordingly.

Er, how? I can't see that they have any UK presence, or any address that you could use for service. And thanks for the warning, but their site is quite obviously written in third best Chinglish, lacks any contact or (actual) company information, and they're quite open that they're shipping from China. You took a gamble and lost, it happens. Just instruct your payment processor to do a chargeback because it's non-functional, and get on with your life.

I do somewhat fear that Johnno has being mugged off to clear the site out. After Hammer 2 Operations got punted off of two (might even be three by now) sites, it's not paranoid if they are you to track get you. Given the distance, that it's just half days, that the site is going to take some time to develop fully, and that they've pulled a bit of a cad's trick and are clashing with Biohazard fortnights, I'll be giving it a miss for a bit. Hopefully I'll see you there on a full day when some sanity has returned.