TheGrover

Hey all, Im looking to replace my current eye protection solution (mesh goggles over my eyeglasses) with a one piece solution, designed specifically for airsoft/sport if possible. the two options that I see are either: -Glasses with polycarbonate lenses and frames which fit around the face PROS lightweight minimal fogging may be more comfortable CONS Limited to BS EN 166 F (rated at just over 0.8j, see below) not quite as protective as fully fitted goggles -Normal protective goggles with prescription inserts PROS Better seal around the eyes More secure fitting (Generally) can be rated up to BS EN 166 B (over 6j, see below) CONS likely to cause fogging, due to two extra surfaces to cause condensation upon more bulky and heavy may be harder to use certain weapon sights Has anyone had any experiences with these solutions to suggest any other notable PROS or CONS to consider? or is there another eye protection solution to consider? BS EN 166 Ratings and Energy IF my research serves my correctly, the impact rating (BS EN 166 F or B )is tested using a 0.86g steel ball fired at the lens or frame (or both) at a certain speed, 45m/s for the F rating and 120m/s for the B rating. my Maths tells me that this is 0.871j to be rated as 166 F and over 6j to be rated as 166 B. to add some perspective, a 0.20g bb at 350 ft/s carries a little over 1j of energy, and a 0.20 at 500 ft/s carries 2.323j. this means that BS EN 166 F eye protection is not actually adequate for airsoft, as the kinetic energy carried by a BB out of a sniper rifle or even most AEGs is significantly more than the requirements for the standard. And on the other hand, BS EN 166 B is massive overkill. Eye protection is not limited to these requirements however, and there is no reason that a pair of BS EN 166 F glasses cannot survive a 2 j hit, just because it has an F printed on it. i havent seen any tests, but if i read correctly, polycarbonate lenses can be used to create eye protection that can stand up to anything an airsoft field can throw (or shoot) at it, though i would be a bit nervous to pay £100 for polycarbonate glasses just to break them when testing, much better to get the seller to assume that responsibility, especially when buying from somewhere that claims to provide eye protection for airsoft. now, any eye protection i use will get a point blank shot from my own AEG before i trust it on the field, but prescription eye protection can be expensive... Thanks for reading guys Edit: Damn auto-smileys

The Tactical Optician online store doesnt seem to show any products, is there any other way to see his selection of products?

http://www.safetyspecs.co.uk/Bolle%20safety%20glasses.htm This might be something to look into. Not sure about the ballistic rating though, the test conducted using approx. 0.81j energy wheras a normal field limit is about 1j (0.20g bb at 100m/s) or a little more. Does anyone know if there is a higher standard available for safety specs?

I agree with using the fuse wire actually, ive rewired a few fuses in the past, and anything i can do a 10 year old can probably do better.

A fuse blowing is a sign of something wrong, i assume that the shop already did it, but check that the rating of the fuse that was blowing was within the tolerance of your motor. It might be easier and less damaging to find the root cause. Of course, if the gun is made with the wrong fuse you could always take the blown fuse to any car maintenance shop (halfords or similar) and ask them for a replacement. They may not sell a bigger fuse that fits in the same slot though, depending on the type

Ah. I never found these regulations before, i always thought that there was no explicit defence for us airsofters, but there it is, under the RIF regulations 2007. So i guess that UKARA is in fact a good way of proving your entitlement to a defence, along with a record of all your previous skirmishes, future bookings etc. Thanks for that

Better not post a picture of mine then... Coz it has a red dot on top of a riser on top of a rail on top of a rail! And the handguard is bright blue... Sorry, Ed. Ill just be leaving now...

I tried both nubs, each was as bad. And i didnt find it too hard to get the nub in with a screwdriver, i dont have a clue how to remove the arm

I agree with the warranty, but i took the gun apart to swap the rubber early on, so that may have invalidated it. The nub wasnt the issue, i swapped that out early doors as well with the one that came with the madbull bucking. How do i take apart the hop unit to change the arm? I might know someone who could make one but i would need to give him something to copy. Thanks gents

After getting my first gun, and ICS L85, to its first skirmish, it quickly became apparent that something was wrong. i have two problems with using the gun, one of which i have a temporary fix for, though i dont know how well this sill stand up to a skirmish. the most frustrating was the gun failing to fire, caused by a break in the curcuit owing to a spring loaded contact, responsible for bridging the electrical components on the upper and lower receiver being stiff, and getting stuck in the upper reciever rather than pressing onto the trigger contacts. I have tried silicone spray and traditional grease to make it move better, but it can still get stuck when assembling the gun. I'm planning to lift the assembly out, dissasemble it, lube it up and reassemble, but I heard that this is a problem with a few guns, so perhaps theres another fix that might be easier. The second issue came after i got the gun firing... all the BBs i fired went skywards, big time. even with the hop turned all the way off, i was shooting over large hills, and could probably get the BB to lift itself over a two storey building from 10m away. this one turned out to be the hop unit, possibly caused by storing it with the hop turned all the way off. the arm that acts on the adjustment wheel has twisted slightly, so that even when the hop should be turned all the way off, the nub is pushed about 2 mm into the bucking. ive temporarily fixed this by super-gluing a small piece of plastic onto the arm to space the arm level from the wheel, which means that with my hop turned off, a .20g bb lifts just over my sights at 10m, its not ideal, but its skirmishable, and with some .25s i should be able to get them firing straight. has anyone else had any issues like these? and how did you overcome them? Thanks guys

I do NOT reccomend getting a two tone from airsoft world unless the gun is already sprayed, and even then should be avoied: -two week wait for spraying -paint used is shite: scratches off far too easily and feels uncomfortably sticky -the guy that sprays the guns doesnt read the order notes, so dont think you can pick a colour or which parts you want painting All these have been learned from my own recent experience

so, draft 2: ASG Blasters = GOOD ASG Blaster Devils = GOOD BB Bastards = GOOD Excel BBs = GOOD Zero-One = BAD Snoop Doggy = BAD Bulldog = BAD

So to summarise so far: ASG Blasters = GOOD ASG Blaster Devils = GOOD BB Bastards = GOOD Zero-One = BAD Snoop Doggy = BAD Bulldog = BAD Anything less than 0.2g = VERY BAD are there any other reccomendations? or does it just come does to ASG or Bastards in terms of reliable BBS? Thanks guys

I'm looking to stock up on .25s to replace my .20 blaster devils. Which brands are out there, no more than 15 quid per 1500 and high quality (good polish finish and consistent accuracy) Many thanks

Second that, my rail adapter and sling were well packaged, delivered next day with flawless customer service even after giving the wrong address and needing them to change it the day after

Fair enough, I just bought a realistically metal ICS l85 A2 myself

You know plastic guns aren't that fragile font you? The cheap ones may well be but good nylon fibre plastic is strong enough that you needn't worry

Ant-supplies sell dovetail adapters both ways, sounds like you're after a weaver to sa80 adapter or weaver to dovetail

In addition to the glossary, is Wilco (will comply) used in military operations? Or does Roger serve the same purpose? Don't hate me if it's wrong

I take it then that nobody has tried. Maybe ICS or madbull might know

Thats the one i was talking about. does the DD rail system fit on that?

i think this here is an ICS L85 carbine (note that the flash hider starts only just in front of the rail system), just wanted to make sure though ps. sorry for posting an SA80 with an EOTech, Ed

hey guys, I suspect that Ed may know the answer, but Ill put it out in the public realm anyway. Does anybody know if the Madbull Daniel Defence rail can fit to the carbine version of the ICS L85 just as the standard L85? I have seen images of an ICS with the DD rail that seem to have a carbine barrel length, but I want to make sure. Many Thanks

will do. speak to ed if you want advice though; he's the forums's resident ICS L85 nut IIRC. the general consensus on L85 replicas is that ICS do the best

Brand New ICS L85A2. took a little searching, but i finally found a shop that would two-tone it in green painting only the plastic furniture, which can easily be changed once i have UKARA (was planning to fit a DD rail system anyway) I know its a two tone, but after a couple of bad days with hire guns, going through a total of 6 guns and 5 mags in two days due to mechanical failures, i've lost the ability to tolerate using a hire gun can't wait to pick it up from my local Bargain Booze... thats UPS shipping for you... can't wait to see the look on the cashier's face when i pick up an assault rifle from behind the counter add to it a 19mm > 20mm conversion rail and i'm ready to get stuck in see you guys on the field