Ares Amoeba Striker AS-01/AS-02 Owners Thread

[Skara]

Perfect example of people's stupidity.

Fancy useless aftermarket hop chamber but kept the shit stock cylinder.

 

The rough bolt pull happens because of the AS01 45° sear and the utter shit brass cylinder. One small free thing you can do is to get rid of the cocking indicator. More useless than that fancy AA hop chamber your mate spend way too much on, it grinds against the cylinder side and, to be fair, nobody cares about a visual indicator that your cock is gunned.

[Skara]

Guys, smol qwestion.

 

There is some resistance when pushing the bolt in battery, in particular it happens in the last few millimetres of travel, when the nozzle enters the hop chamber and pushes the bb retention thingy upwards.

 

Did I fuck up something?

[E21A]

29 minutes ago, Skara said:

Guys, smol qwestion.

 

There is some resistance when pushing the bolt in battery, in particular it happens in the last few millimetres of travel, when the nozzle enters the hop chamber and pushes the bb retention thingy upwards.

 

Did I fuck up something?

Mine does this sometimes, usually when I’ve had it apart. After a few shots it stops so never really bothered me. 
 

What’s your setup? 

[Skara]

14 minutes ago, E21A said:

Mine does this sometimes, usually when I’ve had it apart. After a few shots it stops so never really bothered me. 
 

What’s your setup? 

Ares steel cylinder (welded pins)

Stock cylinder head

Stock chamber 

3d printed arm

Omega nub

ML 50° decepticon 

Stock barrel (debridged)

 

Fired just a handful of shots after installing the hop parts.

[Solly4568]

13 minutes ago, E21A said:

Mine does this sometimes, usually when I’ve had it apart. After a few shots it stops so never really bothered me.

Same here, from my end I have found its not to do with the hop unit but it is more to do with the bolt and cylinder. I would make sure that when you put the bolt back in you make sure that it is 100% in line with the trigger sears which is what worked for me 

[E21A]

28 minutes ago, Skara said:

Ares steel cylinder (welded pins)

Stock cylinder head

Stock chamber 

3d printed arm

Omega nub

ML 50° decepticon 

Stock barrel (debridged)

 

Fired just a handful of shots after installing the hop parts.

Still using the stock plastic sleeve around the cylinder? 

[Solly4568]

20 minutes ago, E21A said:

Still using the stock plastic sleeve around the cylinder? 

Wait you can upgrade that!!!!! I feel a purchase coming on 😁

 

[Yuukan]

18 hours ago, Skara said:

Perfect example of people's stupidity.

Fancy useless aftermarket hop chamber but kept the shit stock cylinder.

 

The rough bolt pull happens because of the AS01 45° sear and the utter shit brass cylinder. One small free thing you can do is to get rid of the cocking indicator. More useless than that fancy AA hop chamber your mate spend way too much on, it grinds against the cylinder side and, to be fair, nobody cares about a visual indicator that your cock is gunned.

So just wondering.

Is it just the Steel upgraded cylinder I should go pick up, and should I also replace the stock piston at the same time?
Are the Lycan 90 degree sears the ones to go for?



If I replace the bolt and sear should that allow it to pull the bolt with alot less force or is it still a hard bolt pull even with the upgraded bolt?
Does the upgraded steel bolt run around ~£80 ?

[Solly4568]

Personally I would get yourself one of these 

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Accessories_Conversion_Kits_Other_ARES_Compact_Power_Spring_Bolt_for_ARES_Amoeba_STRIKER_S1_Sniper_Rifle_Upgraded_Version.htm

These are the cheapest and if you pretend to be a minor on the packaging it will count as a gift and you won't get hit with import charges.

I would also pick yourself up one of these 

https://www.bespokeairsoft.co.uk/lycan-romeo-sear-for-ares-striker-as01-1pc-steel

Both of which I have in mine and it gives a silky smooth bolt pull. But if you are struggling for cash I would simply get an upgraded piston and wet sand the exterior of your current bolt to remove the black covering which smooths the bolt pull and gives the bolt a nice copper colour 

[Samurai]

Yes, you need a piston too.

Mine became useless in two games.

Yes, less force will be needed when cocking. 45 degree trigger with strong spring is pressing the piston against the cylinder.

[E21A]

24 minutes ago, Solly4568 said:

Wait you can upgrade that!!!!! I feel a purchase coming on 😁

 

 

https://hpairsoft.ca/product/gap-ring/

 

purchase away, best £20 I’ve spent on mine I think 

[Solly4568]

2 minutes ago, E21A said:

https://hpairsoft.ca/product/gap-ring/

 

purchase away, best £20 I’ve spent on mine I think 

Thanks man 

That's interesting does the ring actually stay there with continual use or do you still have to adust it 

 

[E21A]

3 minutes ago, Solly4568 said:

Thanks man 

That's interesting does the ring actually stay there with continual use or do you still have to adust it 

 

There is a video on YouTube explaining installation. It can be a bit of a bitch to get right, but once it’s done it works really well and stays in place. 

[Solly4568]

Just a little follow up from the cylinder ring. If you are thinking of getting this be warned about the sheer level of sanding you will need to do to get it to bloody work. I think I spent around 3 hours with sandpaper and my own tears to get it working perfectly. But dear god is it worth it. It is quite possibly the best quality life change I have done to the Striker, the bolt literally falls back down into the breach, I love how it is now but dear lord did it take a long time to get it working properly 😭😂

[E21A]

1 hour ago, Solly4568 said:

Just a little follow up from the cylinder ring. If you are thinking of getting this be warned about the sheer level of sanding you will need to do to get it to bloody work. I think I spent around 3 hours with sandpaper and my own tears to get it working perfectly. But dear god is it worth it. It is quite possibly the best quality life change I have done to the Striker, the bolt literally falls back down into the breach, I love how it is now but dear lord did it take a long time to get it working properly 😭😂

what were you sanding? 

[Samurai]

Could you please measure it next time you take it apart? For... khm... education.

[Solly4568]

14 hours ago, E21A said:

what were you sanding? 

So I had to sand the ring itself so it could fit on the cylinder and then I sanded the interior of the receiver to keep it smooth and dam does it look good. I also found a replacement screw for the centre body screw because mine had shredded itself so now I have silver body screws as well😋

8 hours ago, Samurai said:

Could you please measure it next time you take it apart? For... khm... education.

What do you want measuring, I know that you do a bit of 3d printing and coming from a guy who owns a 3d printer I don't think that you would be able to get the same level of smoothness and precision for the ring. They have to CNC theirs from some frictionless plastic to get it to work. But hey it's worth a try. I will be able to measure it accurately on Friday when I get home 😁

[Samurai]

2 hours ago, Solly4568 said:

What do you want measuring, ...

Outer diameter and maybe the length. (Just because I'm lazy to make a few test prints to get the proper size.)

I have printed guide rings for my Bar-10 and they worked nicely. PLA can be quite smooth. I've been eyeing this ring and I think I even printed one at one point but I don't remember what the outcome was. Seeing you being excited about it made me wanting it again.

Thank you in advance.

[Solly4568]

15 minutes ago, Samurai said:

Outer diameter and maybe the length. (Just because I'm lazy to make a few test prints to get the proper size.)

I have printed guide rings for my Bar-10 and they worked nicely. PLA can be quite smooth. I've been eyeing this ring and I think I even printed one at one point but I don't remember what the outcome was. Seeing you being excited about it made me wanting it again.

Thank you in advance.

Ok got you, I will have to crack out my electric callipers on the weekend. I would also recommend an acetone bath to smooth it if you are using PLA because that should get it nice and smooth 

[Solly4568]

On 03/02/2020 at 11:06, Samurai said:

Outer diameter and maybe the length. (Just because I'm lazy to make a few test prints to get the proper size.)

I have printed guide rings for my Bar-10 and they worked nicely. PLA can be quite smooth. I've been eyeing this ring and I think I even printed one at one point but I don't remember what the outcome was. Seeing you being excited about it made me wanting it again.

Here you go mate sorry it took so long but those are all the measurement that I could get 😀

[Samurai]

Great, thank you very much @Solly4568

[Solly4568]

Just one observation that I have made while using the cylinder ring is that you seem to get a lot less grease on the hop rubber because the bolt is no longer dragging along the inside of the receiver and at the rate that the strikers go through buckings, anything that extends their life is a good thing

[Lozart]

On 12/01/2020 at 16:44, Skara said:

Perfect example of people's stupidity.

Fancy useless aftermarket hop chamber but kept the shit stock cylinder.

 

The rough bolt pull happens because of the AS01 45° sear and the utter shit brass cylinder. One small free thing you can do is to get rid of the cocking indicator. More useless than that fancy AA hop chamber your mate spend way too much on, it grinds against the cylinder side and, to be fair, nobody cares about a visual indicator that your cock is gunned.

 

Seems I have a similar mate.

 

He's had the AA hop chamber fitted and a stronger spring. Now the bolt is super tough to pull and the BBs either get chopped or double feed depending on the adjustment of the BB stoppers. If I get the stoppers to actually not double feed the nozzle doesn't seem to want to seat forward properly. Is there any way to fix this beyond putting the original hop unit back in?

[E21A]

12 hours ago, Lozart said:

 

Seems I have a similar mate.

 

He's had the AA hop chamber fitted and a stronger spring. Now the bolt is super tough to pull and the BBs either get chopped or double feed depending on the adjustment of the BB stoppers. If I get the stoppers to actually not double feed the nozzle doesn't seem to want to seat forward properly. Is there any way to fix this beyond putting the original hop unit back in?

there probably is, but put the stock hop chamber back in with a gunsmithy hop arm and nub 

[Lozart]

12 hours ago, E21A said:

there probably is, but put the stock hop chamber back in with a gunsmithy hop arm and nub 

 

Cool. Plan is to fit the original hop unit as soon as he manages to find it! Any recommendations on rubbers? I did suggest he get a better inner barrel so vsr rubbers would be an option.