Thinking of buying a TM L96

[Snakeeyes75]

The advantages of the SDIK are a big argument tbh,

 

It gives a shorter and lighter pull,

 

by using a regulator the consistency is better,

 

the volume matching seems to be good on a 430mm barrel so little joule creep

 

and that's about it!

 

I keep my EdGI VSR as my back up gun (Which is a better gun to be fair)

 

For Sunday Skirmishes I can get more shots with the VSR in a short space of time. In the last 2 months of having it fitted I've averaged 30-40 hits per game which for me is really good!

[ItsAJ]

This is discussed in a lot of threads so I won't go into detail, but you can change the muzzle energy to whatever you like, has a shorter and lighter bolt cycle (you can get shots off quicker) and doesn't require a lot of the upgrade parts like sears and trigger mechanism that a spring build requires. Can run off HPA or CO₂ (with an adapter), which makes it cheap to run as well.

 

Also, my point about the GSpec was the clones - the JG BAR, are slightly more upgrade-friendly purely because the cylinder isn't pinned. If you go down the SDiK route and are upgrading the barrel and hop unit anyway then it's not worth buying a Marui as it's a waste of money if you're stripping out all the good bits and the ones with pinned cylinders can be a bit of a pain to get open if you're not swapping the cylinder (which you wouldn't want to in an SDiK as it won't give any performance upgrade). Someone will probably come in any confirm this, but you may be alright anyway as I think the newer Gspecs have the cylinder just threaded anyway *shrugs*.

 

If you have the money to upgrade now then go SDiK in a JG BAR (Gpsec) or similar. If not (or you want to upgrade to spring later on) then the TM VSR (Gpsec) is your best choice. Really this all boils down to whether or not you want to upgrade immediately (the SDiK giving the flexibility to shoot at 1J until you move, or by just setting up a springer with a weaker spring and then swapping it when you do more) or if you want to bide your time with the stock rifle for a bit, because the JG BAR is a good platform for upgrades and will save you a fair bit of money, but ultimately isn't much good stock like the TM is.

I just don't fancy having the Bar10, plus it would be illegal here with our limit you would need a firearms license. The TM Gspec, the cylinder that's pinned or crimped must be able to open somehow? Either way I'm buggered if I go spring or SDik, a forum I read said if you need to change the cylinder to mankit it then you need to change the trigger mechanism too, is that because it's a 45 degree and the sears will break or is there another reason? So I would need a new cyclinder and cylinder head, a piston, spring and spring guide and a trigger mech? . Sorry to be a pain here, just I'm reading as many forums as I can and watching videos but I just want to make sure I go down the right route.

[proffrink]

Which forum was this?

[ItsAJ]

God knows I'd have to trudge through them all again haha, I'll try find it later again

[proffrink]

Please do. Sounds like they were talking about a springer - the SDiK comes with its own guide rod and cylinder head. Removing the GSpec cylinder head means knocking/drilling through a ⌀~3mm pin. I've never done it myself, but from the looks of the video Shizbazki did - I'd PM him on here maybe.

 

Edit

As Shizbazki demonstrates in his video: The whole of the cylinder internals are removed. In the video you can see he's using a 90^o trigger, piston, aftermarket spring guide and (probably) spring - none of these are necessary in the SDiK, but he was running a spring-powered build beforehand so rather than have to switch back to the old trigger he picked up the 90^o SDiK kit. I imagine he either sold the piston, guide rod, spring, cylinder and cylinder head or kept them for another project.

 

The standard 45^o sear/trigger mechanism has a small surface area which is holds the piston back with until you pull the trigger. The point of the 90^o sear engagement trigger/piston combination was to give more contact surface area and reduce wear on the sears - this is important for use over 1J in a spring-powered build as the Marui design was made for sub-1J use. Lots of people just go and throw a new spring in and 3 months down the line their sear rounds off or the piston snaps and their gun is broken.

 

However, the SDiK kit doesn't use spring power - it has a very short spring that's actually about half the power of even the stock Marui one that the 45^o sear engagement was designed for. This is because the job of the spring is only to actuate the valve that releases CO2 or HPA and isn't the power source itself, so it can be very small.

 

That's why I say the SDiK route isn't as expensive as people may first think: You don't need a 90^o trigger, piston, spring guide, spring, new cylinder or cylinder head, because it has no effect on the operation of the SDiK. Again, the idea of the 90^o trigger and piston is to add longevity to a high-muzzle energy spring-based build.

 

Here's what a 90^o sear engagement looks like:

 

Here's what a 45^o sear engagement (i.e. a stock VSR or VSR clone) looks like:

[ItsAJ]

Please do. Sounds like they were talking about a springer - the SDiK comes with its own guide rod and cylinder head. Removing the GSpec cylinder head means knocking/drilling through a ⌀~3mm pin. I've never done it myself, but from the looks of the video Shizbazki did - I'd PM him on here maybe.

 

Edit

As Shizbazki demonstrates in his video: The whole of the cylinder internals are removed. In the video you can see he's using a 90^o trigger, piston, aftermarket spring guide and (probably) spring - none of these are necessary in the SDiK, but he was running a spring-powered build beforehand so rather than have to switch back to the old trigger he picked up the 90^o SDiK kit. I imagine he either sold the piston, guide rod, spring, cylinder and cylinder head or kept them for another project.

 

The standard 45^o sear/trigger mechanism has a small surface area which is holds the piston back with until you pull the trigger. The point of the 90^o sear engagement trigger/piston combination was to give more surface are and reduce wear on t he sears - this is important for use over 1J in a spring-powered build as the Marui design was made for sub-1J use. Lots of people just go and throw new spring in and 3 months down the line their sear rounds off, or the piston snaps and their gun is broken.

 

However, the SDiK kit doesn't use spring power - it has a very short spring that's actually about half the power of even the stock Marui one that the 45^o sear engagement was designed for. This is because the job of the spring is only to actuate the valve that releases CO2 or HPA and isn't the power source itself, so it can be very small.

 

That's why I say the SDiK route isn't as expensive as people may first think: You don't need a 90^o trigger, piston, spring guide, spring, new cylinder or cylinder head, because it has no effect on the operation of the SDiK. Again, the idea of the 90^o trigger and piston is to add longevity to a high-muzzle energy spring-based build.

 

 

Yea I searched everywhere and can't find the post now, not even sure what forum I had read it in. Forgetting about that though, if I get my TM VSR and its crimped and I'm going to mancraft it then what exactly will I need since I won't have access into the cylinder?

[proffrink]

If the cylinder is pinned then look in to removing the pin first - it's threaded too so once the pin is removed you shouldn't have any problems. I'd look up a video or two on this though as plenty of people have done it.

 

If that becomes a problem then you can always buy a new cylinder from Airsoft Pro for a decent price or just go on the Facebook VSR groups and source someone's old stock cylinder (plenty of people who are upgrading their internals on a spring build will be selling them).

 

By the way, you don't need to quote the post if it's right above yours

[ItsAJ]

Haha sorry for all the quoting, blame college for it, they have it battered into us to do it, your lucky I'm not Harvard referencing everything you say.

Yea the pins not so much of an issue, I know a few people that could do a good job of it, its the crimped one I'm concerned about, if it comes to it I could hacksaw around it just to get the goodies inside. Then as you say buy a second hand one and head or a new one. I looked on airsoftsniperparts, but correct me if I'm wrong which I most likely am, but isn't it just the original TM one the SDik will work on or will it fit clones ok?

I have watched so many video on this gun already I think I could disassemble it in the dark when I get it

[proffrink]

I believe only the Pro Sniper is crimped - the GSpec is just pinned. If it comes to it then buy a cylinder from Airsoft Pro - ASPUK just resell most of their parts with a hefty price tag; I've never much liked their shop and I'm not sure why so many people use it. Convenience maybe.

 

Here's the thing: Shizbazki found his ASPUK cylinder wouldn't fit the SDiK yet I found that my Airsoft Pro one did. Either ASPUK have a slightly different design being made by Airsoft Pro or Airsoft Pro updated their cylinder design or Mancraft updated the threads on their cylinder head. It's a bit of a mystery as it's been known for a long time that ASPUK simply resell Airsoft Pro stuff (so you'd expect them to work similarly).

 

Either way, we know the SDiK fits the stock Marui cylinder and will also fit the nikel-plated Airsoft Pro cylinder so if you have an issue with your Marui one then pick up a new one from Airsoft Pro.

[ItsAJ]

Just ordered the TM Gspec so should be here in a few days, are there any recommendations for scopes? I was looking for 3-9x40 with parallax adjustment? Something with a mill dots or similar as I'm not so keen on just cross hairs.

[sp00n]

Just ordered the TM Gspec so should be here in a few days, are there any recommendations for scopes? I was looking for 3-9x40 with parallax adjustment? Something with a mill dots or similar as I'm not so keen on just cross hairs.

 

depends on £££

 

if lots of £££ Hawke

then niko stirling

then what ever

 

also consider 50mm lenses (say 3-9x50), you get abit more of the area magnified etc

[ItsAJ]

I wasn't sure if 50mm would be too big on a vsr? I looked at this one on ebay http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=371019320609&alt=web and this http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=121388175303&alt=web and finally this haha http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=201336237876&alt=web though not 100 percent sure what rail the GSpec has, I know it's 20mm but don't know if it's dovetail.

[sp00n]

 

thats a 50' on my VSR G-spec (not a g-spec silencer though ), with a sun shade

[sp00n]

I wasn't sure if 50mm would be too big on a vsr? I looked at this one on ebay http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=371019320609&alt=web and this http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=121388175303&alt=web and finally this haha http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=201336237876&alt=web though not 100 percent sure what rail the GSpec has, I know it's 20mm but don't know if it's dovetail.

 

 

the nikko is the best in my view, you will need to replace the mount though. its a 20mm picatinny mount rail, or 20mm ris. be aware some mounts don't fit, but rings do fit

[ItsAJ]

Thanks! I will see if I can get 20mm mounts, having not held the rifle can u say if a low or high mount works best? Found the 50mm Nikko version 3-9 that's half mil dot though not illuminated don't know if that is so important?

[sp00n]

That depends on your face, myself I prefer high mounts.

 

But it all depends on your preference lol

[Samurai]

I use 4x40 on my bar-10, but if I would buy a scope now I would go for a 6x40, because my eye is not as good as it used to be. I don't like scopes with variable zoom. They aren't that good as fixed ones.

[ItsAJ]

Hey guys so I'm going to order the SDIK kit, do I need to upgrade the barrel length of the GSpec or is stock ok for this? And any other bits need upgraded to run sdik ok?

[proffrink]

Barrel length means next to nothing in airsoft. Surely you know this by now

 

Buy a good quality 6.03 - 6.05. PDI, ORGA, EdGI; or Prometheus if the budget isn't there. If not then buy 10mm pipe cleaners and Brasso and polish the barrel yourself with a rotary tool or drill. Won't be as good as a properly milled barrel but hey.

 

The SDiK replaces your power source: You will still need to work on your hop unit and barrel as that's where the repeatable shot groupings come from. The Action Army hop up unit gets very good reviews these days, but the Airsoft Pro one seems alright too. Avoid the PDI hop unit as it's not brilliant.

 

Apart from that: Barrel spacers. PDI have free shipping for another two days so pick up some of those in a separate order and as it comes to below £12 you won't be charged VAT. Order your barrel and any other expensive stuff in a second order if you choose to do so. PDI also make a really nice suppressor adapter which you can also put in another separate order.

 

Also, spares for the SDiK: Seals for the regulator and SDiK itself. Consider a tournament lock too if your site is a bit weird about CO₂.

 

Finally: Spare regulator grub screw if you want to mod the regulator to fit inside the stock. Ask Mancraft for one and say you mean to remove the pressure gauge to add it - they will know what you mean and will chuck one in for free.

[ItsAJ]

Haha do you know what it was, I keep forgetting that it won't have the same JC issue as it's got its own cylinder, my memory is awful!

Alright I had thought about a 6.03 so will look them up, would u suggest me sticking with the original bucking on the gun or upgrading as they say the original is great though I bought the airsoft pro enhanced arm which I never installed.

What's the spare regulator grub screw for? I was going to install it into the stock as you said.

[Guest PT247]

if you use the search facility on this forum you will see all this info including what the grub screw is for. Asking people to keep repeating information they have spent time and effort researching so you don't have to is a bit rude IMO, use the search.

[proffrink]

if you use the search facility on this forum you will see all this info including what the grub screw is for. Asking people to keep repeating information they have spent time and effort researching so you don't have to is a bit rude IMO, use the search.

This, but I'm in a marginally good mood

 

Haha do you know what it was, I keep forgetting that it won't have the same JC issue as it's got its own cylinder, my memory is awful!

Alright I had thought about a 6.03 so will look them up, would u suggest me sticking with the original bucking on the gun or upgrading as they say the original is great though I bought the airsoft pro enhanced arm which I never installed.

What's the spare regulator grub screw for? I was going to install it into the stock as you said.

What's 'JC'? Jesus Christ? Joule Creep? Just Cause?

 

No, you need to look into upgrading the hop unit and bucking properly. Sooo much information out there on this for VSRs and I won't spoonfeed it. Even if I did, there are many avenues you can go down that I've never eveven tried, let alone have a somewhat informed opinion on.

 

Grub screw replaces where the pressure gauge would be. Simple as that, but without it you'll not be able to pressurise the regulator. Please read my thread on how to fit the regulator as it's not just as straight forward as throwing it into the stock. For one you need more flexible macro line really.

[ItsAJ]

Sorry I gave up on the search button a while back on my phone after it wouldn't find anything for me on VSR-10 and I presumed if it couldn't find that then grub screw had no chance but maybe it was only a temporary issue.

Proffrink I meant Joule Creep haha but I should have typed it properly. Trust me when I say this, I don't come on here not looking anything up before hand, I haven't stopped reading about vsr parts or upgrades and watching videos I just find many threads contradict themselves with members arguing what is better, and so when someone like me new is new to sniping or the sport they just stand back and don't know who to listen to.

I was asking for your personal opinion not spoon feeding, so I apologise if it came across as this.

I'm only at 1joule until I go to England and so thought the stock hopup would be better for that low fps until I moved over.

I found your thread on it which was very useful, I've now saved it to my homepage, so thanks for uploading it. I'm not sure the grub screw idea would work for me though as I don't have a chronograph and so finding the fps would be a nightmare without the gauge unless you preset it and then take the regulator off.

[Guest PT247]

The gauge isn't required for setting the fps, you would need a chrono for that, what the gauge would do is allow you to see what psi is required to get that fps but you'd still need a chrono to set it. I 100% recommend buying your own chrono, especially if you are looking at modding a rifle and if you can afford things like the SDIK then an extra £50 for a chrono shouldn't break the bank. I have a chrono and I doubt a week goes by where it isn't some use to either myself or a mate borrowing it. Def a sound investment! :-)

Also if you want the CO2 in the stock rather than on a hose you'd need to use the grub screw else it won't fit in the stock. :-)