Jump to content
JD8825

G&G cm16 srl battery issues

Recommended Posts

HI have recently bought the rifle above and I have charged my 8.4 numchucks so they are ready for skirmish. They are both fully charged and when I connect it to the gun it won'the fire. And when I open the but plate there is a light that flashs red. Down the stock tube where the mosfet is. Any idea why this is? Thanks in advance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Think its either people pulling the wiring a bit popping off a motor connector

(thin stock wiring has enough room to allow wires to shift if loom pulled a bit)

 

or same f*ckwit employee slapping together their guns too quickly as probably on piece work wages

 

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/29400-g-g-combat-machine-aeg-cm16-sr-l-with-etu-issue/#entry226284

 

I know electronics & fets are not G&G's strong point in past but the above chap found a simple loose wire on motor

hopefully similar issue perhaps ???

 

doubt if its a fuse - think fuse is between battery & mosfet

so if mosfet is lighting up on each trigger pull then fuse & trigger sounds ok

so just check connections to motor - if not motor connector - send it back

 

could be a pulled wire from mosfet to motor but don't bother checking anything else

just send it back if motor connectors are all sound

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for your comments. I will check the motor connector. I was wondering if it could be that the battery I have are not powerful enough. Will report back.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

a fully charged 8.4v should shift the gun just fine fresh off charge

 

nimah's if left will slowly discharge - old nimah's lose their charge very quickly

often dead in a day or two for old nimah's or new nimah's may lose charge in a week or two

 

So if the battery is good sound order fresh off charge it should be fine

could always use a testmeter to check voltage

 

way post started it appeared that you might have 2 x 8.4v batteries - eg: 1 battery plus a spare

so if you got 2 batteries I assumed both batteries couldn't be defective

 

but you might be referring to both - as in the 2 sticks of ONE nunchuck battery

so if you only have one battery - then you might wanna check somehow it works ok

one of those cells could be duff ???

 

normally though you may hear motor struggling to turn over slowly as battery dies

 

soz it is gonna be a couple of simple checks & process of elimination like most things when things don't quite work as expected

but if battery ok - motor connector ok - send it back as it is new and should just work no hassle

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The information is great. I talked to a mate who owns one an says that he runs a 9.6 in his an that the mosfet has a safety feature project it from against crap or low charge batteries? So I guess the two 8.4s are not good enough. I have had them for awhile now. Oh well guess I will need to buy new one lol. But before I do I will check the connectors an do what you recommended.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The information is great. I talked to a mate who owns one an says that he runs a 9.6 in his an that the mosfet has a safety feature project it from against crap or low charge batteries? So I guess the two 8.4s are not good enough. I have had them for awhile now. Oh well guess I will need to buy new one lol. But before I do I will check the connectors an do what you recommended.

If your mate has the same weapon as you, use his battery before throwing yours away, if it works then you know it's the batterys

 

I had 2x 8.4v batterys die after 6 months (they were more expensive than the cheap ones I bought from China) my other 3 have died after nearly 18 months so swapping to Lipo batterys now

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Agree...

 

I can't see G&G limiting voltage either

As over here a lot of us have switched to lipo but stayed at 7.4v rather than 11.1v.

Plus I don't think G&G are that clever / stupid to do something like that.

 

If 7.4v sounds a bit lame, I can assure a 25c 7.4v lipo packs quite a punch indeed, plus on 7.4v and a mental motor & gears you can hit 30rps or even 40rps on a DSG.

 

We on here tend to use lipo as the old skool nimah's have their limits and do lose charge and even die -well I have found that.

Too easy to go with the flow and buy nimah's stocked by Zero One etc....

 

Yes do not shove in 11.1v in a normal gun as it will burn out trigger contacts quickly

But the SR-L, FFR, BOT have MOSFET in there so they are really lipo ready even 11.1v though I suggest keeping her at 7.4v which comes off charge at 8.4v to be exact

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you everyone for your advice. I think it is a battery issue. As after testing the 9.6v it works great. So I think it was the issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you everyone for your advice. I think it is a battery issue. As after testing the 9.6v it works great. So I think it was the issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know this thread is basically closed but I had a similar issue this weekend with the same gun.

 

Brand new, only tested in the garage. Worked fine for 1/2 days play then stopped. I thought it was the battery (7.4 lipo) so changed to fully charged Nim. Still nothing. Spoke to the gun tech who had a look at the motor connectors (as mentioned above) and one had come off. "whew" thought me...but nope wasn't it. Gun would fire for maybe 3 shots then stop. Mosfet was still flashing though. Tried 2 other battery's and exactly the same thing. Seems another player at the site with the same gun had exactly the same thing happen.

 

It's behaving like there is a duff battery so stops. You disconnect the battery and it will fire for 3 to 5 shots then nothing. I hope it's the mosfet or the ETU. It's being sent back (along with the other guys) to Zeroone where we got them from this week.

 

Will let you know what they find out. Gutted though as its a lovely bit of kit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Damn.....

 

soz to hear about all that - seems like G&G's R&D dept still has some reliability issues

could be the ETU or the 3rd burst mosfet - not theyr'e strong point in the past

But really thought the new release stuff was gonna be so much better than previous mosfet models

 

Wish I had one so I could push it to death and see what is the achilles heal in these guns

think ETU will either work 101% or not at all - sure they still use a cut off lever inside gearbox

My feeling is Mosfet might be be blowing or overloaded as they cut corners before using cheaper quality basic mosfet units

(but would of thought if it blows it should blow for good - so maybe ETU not resetting correctly - did it work on full auto ok)

 

Their motors are a bit lame but even if a winding blew it would stay in this stuck dead point reguardless of battery connect/reconnect

 

Yeah gotta be ETU or fet - BUT TWO GOING TITS UP - damn hope this ain't gonna be the start of guns failing over short time due to cut corners - again

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had a similar problem with mine cm16 srxl using 7.4v lipo would shoot for a bit then stop completely, disconnect the bat re connect and it worked for a bit then repeat.

Took it back to store on Monday awaiting an out come.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pretty sure I read somewhere that G&G are now saying the ETU/Mosfet guns NEED an 11.1v LiPo to work properly...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pretty sure I read somewhere that G&G are now saying the ETU/Mosfet guns NEED an 11.1v LiPo to work properly...

Interesting as I was told that by G&G and posted that on here here and was told 'nope 7.4 lipo would be fine'. I also asked a few sites selling the gun and they recommended 7.4s too :blink:

 

However I tried my Nim as well (http://www.zerooneairsoft.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=ZOBAT9N) and it was the same results.

 

I tried looking for 11.1v lipos to fit it and they were all too long. G&G sent me a recommendation but I can't find it anywhere :wacko:

 

Going to be annoyed if it is that as I now have 3 batteres that are potentially useless (just received another 7.4 that actually fits in the stock, 106mm long)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting as I was told that by G&G and posted that on here here and was told 'nope 7.4 lipo would be fine'. I also asked a few sites selling the gun and they recommended 7.4s too :blink:

 

However I tried my Nim as well (http://www.zerooneairsoft.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=ZOBAT9N) and it was the same results.

 

I tried looking for 11.1v lipos to fit it and they were all too long. G&G sent me a recommendation but I can't find it anywhere :wacko:

 

Going to be annoyed if it is that as I now have 3 batteres that are potentially useless (just received another 7.4 that actually fits in the stock, 106mm long)

 

Problem is that a while back when G&G started fitting Mosfets and people used 11.1s with them they burned out and G&G said that they should only be used with 7.4s. Now they seem to be saying that the ETU models need more juice to work properly. Confusion reigns!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

seems like G&G need to get their f*cking act together

stop trying to reinvent the wheel also

 

either the ETU isn't a wise replacement for old skool trigger

or their fets are $hite - again

 

What is the next excuse - people are using them too much with other brands of bb's

the new ETU's are designed to work only with their G&G bb's ffs

 

OK with the amount of stuff G&G shift you may get the odd lemon - but seems its getting too common now

Bloody shame - coz still want a FFR2 but didn't realise the trigger & fet will need swapping out :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

seems like G&G need to get their f*cking act together

stop trying to reinvent the wheel also

 

either the ETU isn't a wise replacement for old skool trigger

or their fets are $hite - again

 

What is the next excuse - people are using them too much with other brands of bb's

the new ETU's are designed to work only with their G&G bb's ffs

 

OK with the amount of stuff G&G shift you may get the odd lemon - but seems its getting too common now

Bloody shame - coz still want a FFR2 but didn't realise the trigger & fet will need swapping out :(

Dont mean to say I told you so but.........

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Their starter guns are OK...

 

It's when they try other crap they come unstuck

Their pbb box seems to be stopping or limiting what guns they go in. The new hog n predators seem to be STD box no pbb that may crack more than non pbb boxes

 

Their higher end guns are hmmm so-so

Even I wouldn't rush to spend £250+ on a G&G

 

They was also developing a new kind of tappet plate or bb loading system away from conventional tappet & cam on sector gear but not seen that implemented though to be fair not looked or own the new G&G's

 

I'll admit I had some reservations about their new technology when announced, but thought they had got it right now.

After all it couldn't be any worse - spoke too soon

 

The ETU unit is just a tarted up switch that I'm quite sure has cut off lever in. Now the problem is the simple switch is believe it or not quite hard to replicate for what it is.

It has a number of possible states that is hard to replicate even with a set/reset latch circuit, you would think a basic flip-flops type set/reset latching circuit with a couple of transistors would do it...

But there are a couple of states like semi stuck in dead zone that throw up possible qwirky scenarios that it don't work quite as expected....

I did look into an electronic circuit with NPN + PNP transistors myself but found this myself

Others have used logic gates and 555 timer chip but again the odd situation arises where some states don't quite work as expected needing more circuity

Or programmable chips like picaxe but they need voltage regulators as only 5v Max

 

So the ETU unit if it works is quite clever but it may be the issue

 

However given G&G's record with fet's plus the circuit reliability these 3 round switchable fet's may be the most likely cause as people say the led is blinking so ETU is working on maybe but fet is f*cked

 

Wish I had FFR2 - cane the bitch to fail

 

Then on a dud gun swap out the 3 rnd fet for a simple 3034 fet and it should just work

Cane it some more to see if ETU has to have more volts

But think this higher volts is bollox

Yes the ETU could be use a 5v regulator but as long as volts stay at say 6v+ then the 7805 regulator will put out the expected 5v

It is when input voltage drops to close to expected output voltage that the 5v starts going all weird.

 

Maybe they will replace the 3rd fet with just a basic fet like in the BOT 300, personally a F-storm fet or AirLabs would be best and be done with it. £10 fet that is hard to beat and at the moment G&G's innovation is looking pretty damn $hit tbh

 

Hope these owners get their guns sorted properly and soon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had a similar problem with mine cm16 srxl using 7.4v lipo would shoot for a bit then stop completely, disconnect the bat re connect and it worked for a bit then repeat.

Took it back to store on Monday awaiting an out come.

Any news on yours yet??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I installed my mosfet, after a while I would get intermittent firing. Took the gearbox apart & found the signal wire I soldered on had come off so cleaned it a bit more & resoldered & been fine since

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×