New to airsoft and need help

[Livemech]

Hello, everyone.
Have played airsoft for 4 moths now. Played with rental guns on a good site so have got some experience but not much. Have got my UKARA and now in a stage of gearing up slowly.
Few weeks ago bought a second hand G&G l85 carbine, researched about it and it looked like a good deal, it looks ok.
But the shooting from it in first place did not impress me much. I have got 260 fps out of it on .2bb... when people say they`ve got about 330 out of box....grrr ok, but the range was not great either. OK, said I, lets look what can I do with it)
First cleaned the inner barrel out, which did help with range but not as much as I wanted. Next step was changing the spring to increase fps a little bit, bought a PDI 120% spring for AEG, when it came in it was shorter then the one which was fitted before.... ok... maybe I am not so top tech yet, so installed it to check what happens. The fps gone to 280 on 0.2bb. To be honest I was expecting much more.
In same time the Lonex metal hop up unit with flat hop arrived, installed them, apparently it is good mod for range. Yes, the range did increase but still does not go further then 20-25m as I can see, in a game it is impossible to compete to another m4 and g36....
Also changed a air nozzle as old had some wear on the end. I am using the 0.25bbs as they still more accurate than the 0.2. Did the check of the cylinder and stuff when I compress piston and hold nozzle with finger in looks gas tight.
The carbine inner barrel is not so long and I am thinking if there are any chances to buy outer barrel from ics L86 and fit into it or just get standart L85A2 outer barrel as it has got 510mm inner barrel comparing to my 407mm. As longer inner barrel is better for range as well, isn`t?
Any suggestions what to do to increase fps and range a bit more, please? Also about the spring lengths, is there any standart for some gearboxes or it is all about metal and wire thickness?

Thank you,

[Shekmeister]

Unfortunately I don't believe that longer barrel will increase range, BB's 'bounce' around inside the barrel when fired so a longer barrel may worsen your accuracy, unlike real firearms where a long tight bore barrel would accelerate the projectile better. You might instead want a similar length barrel with a tighter bore to reduce the 'bouncing' of bb's

[proffrink]

Na. longer barrels do still get batter compression, so as a rule you will get greater FPS from a longer barrel, but there are many variables and the difference can be negligible. With AEGs it's also a little more interesting as changing the barrel means you may have to change the volume of cylinder so there's enough air to get the BB out of the barrel properly.

 

If your fps is dropping, OP, then your best bet is looking outside of the barrel first:

• Disassemble the hop, clean it up, check the rubber for splits/ruptures and consider replacing it with something better. Reassemble with PTFE/Teflon tape and make sure the airseal is good.
• Check your gearbox and cylinder. With such a significant drop you could have a hairline crack in the cylinder itself (and you're losing compression)

Also worth noting the PDI springs are made for TM guns. I know the L85s have proprietary shaped gearboxes, but whether or not this affects spring compatibility I don't know. Someone will probably answer that shortly.

[mightyjebus]

it sounds like a hop problem. with a FPS of 280 you should still be getting 40 meters. adjust the hop so that the bb starts to swing upwards at the end of it's flight. If you put maximum hop on and this still doesn't happen the you have a problem with the hop unit or hop rubber/nub. be careful adjusting the hop to max as it can jam bb's inside the barrel. if this happens stop shooting and use a cleaning rod to clear the trapped bb. loosen off the hop for it to stop happening.

If the hop unit is workng properly then it looks to be an airseal problem. this can be caused by a few parts:

cracked gearbox shell

misaligned hop unit

torn hop rubber

poor compression in the cylinder

 

If it's a cracked gearbox - get a new shell

make sure the hop unit sits flush onto the front of the gearbox

replace the hop rubber if it's torn

 

did you replace the nozzle with the correct type?

[BrightCandle]

Your FPS is low and that will impact your range. You need to get that sorted. Getting the right length spring in an M110 is what you need to at least get close to the right FPS. Now the issue might also be that you have an airleak from the nozzle to the bucking, older guns can have stiff buckings that need replacing and the nozzle to the cylinder head may need a bit of silicon to help seal as well.

 

Once you get it shooting at the right FPS and you have a new bucking in there then you can start to turn up the hop and see the trajectory and start to get a feel for accuracy. Right now what you have is too low FPS and no hop and so those just need fixing.

[Guest PT247]

The PDI spring is possibly the issue here, although they are good springs an M120 PDI spring is far far weaker than a M120 ASG spring. I suggest trying an M100 or M110 ASG spring.

[Livemech]

Thank you guys, for advice. I have got a Guarder sp110 spring which should bring me to 350 fps, but will check the fps only on sunday as I do not have a chrono at home. About nozzle, I have bought original G&G L85 nozzle, looks and size is same as old, so assuming it is ok. The hop up rubber was replaced as I bought a flat hop. "Modify flat hop" it is called. The only thing that I am concerned is the little circle on the end of the hop up unit, is it very important? I am a bit worried about hop up itself as even on max settings the bbs do not curve up, same was with old hop up as well. The only difference with old hop up it was flying out of gun quite high like going into the sky and dropping down, when as I understand, with over hop it should just fly straight and in the end curve up, or no? Now with new, on max settings it flies ok out of barrel but never curves up just drops. Should I clean outer barrel as well, because I am cleaning inner barrel after each game using ProTech guns TEFLON PTFE oil?

[mightyjebus]

the best way to check is to take the inner barrel and hop unit out and look down the barrel as you turn the hop wheel. you should see the hop rubber appear as a bump and get bigger until you can adjust the hop any more. this will tell you if the hop is able to be applied when it's in the AEG.

 

If you adjust the hop and the bump doesn't appear there is a good chance the nub is missing.

[proffrink]

Also, don't clean the length of your barrel with any oils as lots of buckings love to swell up as they adsorb it. Use isopropyl alcohol to clean it thoroughly (all the way up to the end of the barrel) then swab some oil (I'd just recommend pure silicone) down the length of the barrel but be sure to stop short of the hop unit as you don't want it getting on there. The silicone will help stop residue from the BBs building up inside the barrel.

[Livemech]

It is appiering but not as much as with old rubber, I assume that it is because there is no bump on a new bucking. I have glued the nub to the arm so that it does not jump out, hehe.

[proffrink]

Is that nub a flat one or just the old cylinder-type nub? Flat hopping requires a long, even surface for optimum friction so you need a special hop nub. Either make your own out of a bit of rubber (just needs to be a flat cuboid-like shape) or get something like the Prometheus flat hop nubs.

 

[sp00n]

G&g l85's (I own and have restored mine) unless they have been converted use v2.5 springs(same as psg-1 etc)

[Livemech]

Yep, the nub is the same as on picture. I have looked more inside the hop up and found out that arm which they send with hop up has a bit shorter "hill" for nub, so I just put a old arm and now it looks much better. About springs, thanks for advice, that is what I was wondering what is difference for normal gun and psg-1 spring, but could not find straight answer. Now will know which type to buy as a lot of them say - not suitable for psg-1.... Maybe you can advice which spring is it better to buy as well?

[Livemech]

Hello again, just little report. Changed the spring to Guarder SP110 and replaced the hop up unit arm with stock instead of the one which came with new hop up unit and using the flat hop. All this made me happy today. The FPS has increased to 330 on 0.2 and 320 on 0.25. Very impressed that fps did not drop much on .25s. The range after adjusting the hop up was awesome. Just what I was expecting from my rifle. Also have got a G&P m170 motor coming soon and then thinking of buying Madbull Black Python Ver.2 6.03 tight bore and putting 9.6V battery. Thats the plans for the moment After that will save some money for a RIS on a front and Susat scope, oh and need to buy a pistol, probably it will be first.

Thank you guys for your help.

[ImTriggerHappy]

Forget the G&P motor go for lonex or ultimate.

Madbull tightbores are crap most stock barrels are better look at prommy.

Your better going for a 6.05 or 6.08 though over a tightbore check PDI for those.

[Livemech]

what is wrong with G&P motors?

[ImTriggerHappy]

what is wrong with G&P motors?

They are ok its just you can get better for less money. The most common high torque motor that people use when upgrading is a lonex a2. Power efficient, doesnt heat up much and will pull any airsoft spring with ease.

[sp00n]

what is wrong with G&P motors?

The g&p m120 I had got hot ... Really hot, very very fast!!! I swapped to a lonex a2, and didn't look back

[Livemech]

Oh ok, thank you, will know for the future Also I am experiencing a issue with semi-auto, some times it shoots, sometimes no, I have seen that usually it is a "selector rod" in a gearbox issue on this models, any suggestions?

[sp00n]

Could be a few parts, first thing to check and rule out is are you fully depressing the trigger until the gun has fired?

 

After that remove the gear box and check the linkage arm isn't stiff or binding etc

[Livemech]

today in the end of the game i have put in semi it clicked few times nothing happened, sticked in auto and it fired ok, semi again, push trigger down and holded it and still fired like in auto.... released and pressed again, nothing again... that`s what happends basically, i think inside should be like circuit breaker isn`t, which is breaking it most of the times or is worn.

[ImTriggerHappy]

There are a couple of things that could be causing that but I haven't the experience with the l85 to push you in the right direction.

If your not tech minded send it to a tech.

If you really want to do it yourself then watch lots of vids on youtube and read up on forums for advice on disassembly and reassembly of then l85 then have at it.

Any advice you get on here is guess work as nobody has it in front of them.

Best of luck.

[Livemech]

Well I have stripped the gearbox like hour ago and looked through)) Found out that the gears needs to be shimmed as the bevel gear is a bit loose and wobles around. On a trigger side I think the metal selector has worn out a bit and is cousing the issues as it does not releases the contacts after you press the trigger sometimes, and I have cleaned the electrical contacts aswell. If not gonna help I just gonna pull my finger quickly on fully auto) It is not so hard as I was expecting.