Newbie with a Cyma CM-016 - advice please

[bobster46]

Hi everyone,

 

First post on here, I've just got the above M4 so that my son and i can get into skirmishing. Im in Gloucester and after a quick play with the gun have realised that there are a number of moving parts in the mags and the gearbox. Swell as a requirement for some gucci add ons :-)

 

My questions are:

1. Is there a reputable shop in the area that can carry out servicing?

2. How often should the gun and mags be serviced?

3. Having no technical knowledge and never owned one before but am in the military so have a basic understanding of weapons can i service this myself. and if so how do i do it, and what do i need.

4. Currently has a v2 gerarbox and an 8.4 1200ma battery - can i upgrade these and if so where and for what ? and for what sort of cost, and is it necessary or is the gun fine as it is?

5. Best ammo to put through it? I've just bought some competition 0.20g bb's and it came with diamond precision 0.12gs

6. Can anyone recommend a relatively close skirmish site? How much roughly would a days activity cost for my son?

7. Optics- I've purchased a reflex sight and behind it will be a side flip mount 3 x power mag scope, also fitting a fore grip with bipod extension. Any thoughts on any other add ons gratefully appreciated.

 

Many Thanks

 

Rob

[bobster46]

1. Sorry, I forgot to add, can someone explain hop up as this version is the hop up one? Does this mean i can adjust something for performance?

Sorry for being such a newb :-(

 

Any advice greatly appreciated

 

Thanks

 

Rob

[Twice19]

Hi Rob

Welcome to the last sport you'll ever want to play 😃

 

I'm a bit of a tech noob so I can't help a great deal, but...

... An 8.4v battery should be fine for a starter. In basics, higher voltage means higher ROF. But, more strain/wear on the internals too.

An 8.4v is (in my experience) the "standard". I've run all my AEGs with 8.4 and never had a problems. 9.6 can give a bit more firepower, but that's not necessary. But they are (obviously) bigger batteries so the stock needs to be changed to fit them properly.

Or duct-tape it to the outside :-)

 

Caring for mags; empty them when they are done with for the day to release the tension from the springs inside. You can buy boxes of "Disposable Mags" for M4s. They're not quite what they sound; but their lightweight vacuum formed plastic. They come in boxes of 10/15. Tough and cheap enough that they can be abused without too much concern. If you pay out for more expensive mags, you'll worry every time you drop them!

 

A hop-up is a little gadgety thing that sits on the end of the barrel (inside). It adds an adjustable amount of Back Spin onto the BBs as they are fired out in order to keep them going straighter for longer.

The dial for it should sit under the Dust Cover.

You should be able to release the Dust Cover by using the Cocking Handle. It should look like a little cog/dial on the inside.

It takes some playing around and test-firing to get it set "right".

 

All internals (hop, gearbox parts etc) CAN be upgraded, but they don't necessarily NEED to be.

Think of it like a car. Some TLC and the stock version is fine. But the more serious you get, the more bits you'll want to upgrade to get better performance.

 

.20 BBs are fine for most use. It's best to avoid the cheapest ammo as they tend to he worse quality. Not quite spherical so they can cause jams, shatter on impact/firing.

I tend to stick to Excel BBs.

 

I've never found a lot of use for Magnification on a rifle at Airsoft engagement range. A decent Red Dot has always seen me through fine.

As for other add-ons; look at something called a MOSCART. They're pricey, but every time you pull the trigger you'll smile like a lunatic.

 

Not the most technical advice; but that's the jist of it 😃

 

Someone will no doubt fix my poor description and help with the rest.

 

There's a link to an Airsoft Map on here that shows a lot of the sites in the UK. Typically, your looking at £25-£35 for a days play. Sites tend to offer food-y bits.

 

Sorry I can't help with links etc. Trying to do all this from an IPhone, which is a terrible idea :-/

 

Probably a stupid suggestion, but just incase: make sure you invest in some decent Eye Pro too.

Full Face is highly recommended; some sites require younger players to only wear FFP. But just a pair of goggles is the bare minimum. Shooting Glasses are generally ok, but I've seen instances of ricoches getting behind SG's. Fully Sealed Goggles are the safest bet.

[Jedi_Master]

5. Throw away the 0.12g BBs, they are for non-airsoft toy BB guns. The lightest weight used is 0.20g BB, which most sites use as the standard for fps measurement. I started off using 0.20g BBs but get better range with my TM changed to slightly heavier ASG Blaster 0.25g BBs, found them to be a good weight and very cost effective. For example, Patrol Base sell a bottle of 3000 x 0.25g BB for £6.99 http://patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-bbs

[bobster46]

Thanks guys, very useful. I've ordered some 0.2s and disposed of the other ones.

Are there any idiots guides with info to adjusting the hop up, id like to play around with it with 0.2s and some 0.25's but don't want to go prodding where i shouldn't !

[Twice19]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qWct2r6azfw

 

There isn't a set amount to adjust the hop to, it will be a case of trial and error.

When it's not on, you'll get a reasonable range on firing.

Putting the hop "on" will give you a bit more range each adjustment.

But once you've gone past the sweet spot, the BBs will start to arc up as they are fired. So turn the hop the other way a little bit to turn it off.

 

It should only take about 10mins or so (and a good mag full) to get it right.

I've never heard of anyone doing damage by adjusting the hop wrong. Just be gentle and don't force anything to do something it doesn't want to.

 

After a long while the Hop will deteriorate, as it's only a rubber buffer on the inside, but it can be replaced. It's fiddly, but do-able.

[Twice19]

Check out the New Players and Arrivals bit on here, too.

There's a LOT of usefull info.

A few legal bits you'll want to brush up on (UKARA Defence); an Airsoft Map; tech guides etc.

Have a search and a browse. For the most part, anything you'll need to know will be have been covered in one way or another by someone :-)

[mightyjebus]

1. Is there a reputable shop in the area that can carry out servicing? Do a quick google search for airsoft gloucester. It brings up a few places but I've never used them so can't vouch for any of them.

2. How often should the gun and mags be serviced? - after every day out make sure you fire the AEG, with any BB's in the chamber, to release the pressure on the spring. Sometimes when the AEG fires the spring can be partly compressed so it's always a good habit to get into after a day out. It's also worth cleaning the inner barrel after every day out as they attract dirt. It's a bit easier than the SA80 as all you need to do it use the cleaning rod that came with the AEG and put a little bit of cloth in the end. give it a quick spray with silicon oil and run it through the barrel a couple of times. Don't worry about the oil being on the hop rubber as after a few BB's it will function as normal.

Mag's have a tendency to attract soil, fur, leaves, dead bugs etc if you play woodland sites. If you've had a day of crawling around it's worth stripping the mag, re-oiling and putting back together.

3. Having no technical knowledge and never owned one before but am in the military so have a basic understanding of weapons can i service this myself. and if so how do i do it, and what do i need. - see above or check out the youtube videos on basic maintenance.

4. Currently has a v2 gerarbox and an 8.4 1200ma battery - can i upgrade these and if so where and for what ? and for what sort of cost, and is it necessary or is the gun fine as it is? Ok this is where the hobby becomes expensive. The AEG right now will perform pretty good. You will be hitting targets at 40 meters without too many problems. but.... you can get a few more meters by changing the inner barrel to a tightbore, maybe adding another type of hop rubber adding a slightly stronger spring with increase the FPS and if you combine this with a tightbore and better hop rubber you might be pushing 45-50 meters. Next it trigger response..Mosfet will sort that out as will changing to a LIPO battery. You can have reinforced gears, bearing spring guides, chc'd hop units and a whole host of addons which leaves you without any money and a AEG that can shoot 10 meters further, slightly faster. The other option is to get a bit closer to the guy you are trying to shoot and save yourself a fortune.

5. Best ammo to put through it? I've just bought some competition 0.20g bb's and it came with diamond precision 0.12gs Start with 0.2g and see how you get on. You can get 0.2. 0.23, 025 and at a push 0.28 anything heavier isn't that good in an AEG unless you have modded it to death. remember that the heavier you go the slower the BB will travel to the target. Everyone has their own opinion of the brands but over the years I've never heard anyone have major problems with Excel. The come in most sizes and are high quality.

6. Can anyone recommend a relatively close skirmish site? How much roughly would a days activity cost for my son? - again do a google search and expect to pay around £20 for a walk on (you have all your own gear, gun, mags, battery, face protection). if you are looking to hire the cost will be about 15 quid more.

7. Optics- I've purchased a reflex sight and behind it will be a side flip mount 3 x power mag scope, also fitting a fore grip with bipod extension. Any thoughts on any other add ons gratefully appreciated. Optics in airsoft are a bit useless since everyone is about 50 meters away but they do look cool. either pick something you like the look of or find a weapon in use and match the accessories to the picture (think Seals, UKSF, Spetznas, etc). The only really good accessory is a torch especially if you try out a CQB site. Don't waste money on the real thing as it's a bit gutting when the lense gets smashed by a stray BB. There are loads of cheap chinese copies that work very well in airsoft and don't break the back.

If you are going for the first time here's my top tips:

have your own AEG if possible as hire guns can be temperamental because of the amount of use they get.

have a least 2 hicap magazines - you can switch to midcaps or realcaps once you get the feel for it and want to try them out.

Spend your money on good eye protection before going. glasses will fog up whereas Mesh doesn't but there is a slight safety risk with mess as a BB could shatter and damage the eye. In 20 odd years playing I haven't seen it but there's always a first time.

have a spare battery

good footwear with ankle support is recommended.

if it's CQB then gloves are a good idea as a BB on our knuckle from 5 meters away will cause you to swear.

wear what you want but since your serving then use your MTP or if you have been in a while dig out your DPM.

and lastly it's supposed to be fun so have fun, if your not sure you have been hit then take it as a hit. Don't get upset if you spend thousands of pounds on kit and find that everytime you go out a 13 year old kid with a chicken on his head keeps on shooting you.

[Sitting Duck]

F*CK ME

 

I've met my long lost twin brother

 

Uhmm yeah what he said

Wow did ya get a new keyboard for chrimbo and just breaking it in - kidding

Great info post - mega likey

 

Mags if they operate OK leave alone

Make sure you empty them of bb's release tension as spring in mag if left wound will perform crap if left full & wound.

[Twice19]

Don't get upset if you spend thousands of pounds on kit and find that everytime you go out a 13 year old kid with a chicken on his head keeps on shooting you.

Speaking from experience, Jebus? :-)

[Sitting Duck]

Speaking from experience, Jebus?

 

it is 101% true.....

 

That guy with a PolarStar will get the right hump when that little 13yr old keeps taking him out with a JBBG gun

it is a fact that does happen......

 

£1,000 doesn't buy fun - well maybe a load of hookers but in airsoft it doesn't guarantee you will own the field just on buying all the top $hit

 

I've seen it myself and I'm sure many if not most of us have

airsoft is like motoring

Porsche might be the bollox on M1 but around town there will ALWAYS be that little bastid dominoes pizza twat on his moped right up your ar$e

[Twice19]

My nemesis was a little girl with a Pink M4 and a little tin hat.

I hesitated before once because I felt bad shooting her.

She giggled and went Full Auto on my nuts.

Never hesitated again.

[bobster46]

Thanks guys, some very comprehensive advise thats much appreciated :-)

 

I've heard putting a lipo battery in will shorten the life of the gearbox? Im thinking about (hoping it will fit) a VP racing 9.6v 1600ma battery. if i do, what rough life expectancy can i hope for? And is mosfet something i can purchase and install myself or do i need to send the gun away?

[straffham]

Worth mentioning that Cyma M4's usually chrono around 360fps out of the box unless you bought from somewhere which pre downgrades them, which is too hot for most sites (350 is usually the maximum acceptable, can be 328 at some sites so worth checking).

 

A Marui hop rubber (£5 from Firesupport) is about the only upgrade worth doing until something goes wrong (often with Cyma's the trigger switch contacts can become burnt from arcing and need replacing but again they are cheapish to replace. With the stock 8.4v battery they should last a good while but as said above a bigger battery will kill them quicker).

 

Cyma gearbox innards are compatible with standard V2 parts. The gears are quite good in them as standard. As said youtube is a good source of strip down guides, just remember there are a lot of parts in a gearbox, some under spring pressure which will attempt to go into orbit when you open it up, so the first time make sure you open it inside a plastic bag.

 

I can recommend Fire Support for parts online as well as Pete ("ak2m4") on this forum. Again I'm not from your part of the world so can't recommend any sites sorry.

[Sitting Duck]

7.4v lipo comes off charge @ 8.4v and is fine

lipo's are the way to go if buying new battery/charger

 

9.6v nimah old skool is the most I would go to

 

mosfet requires soldering and in v2 boxes opening up of gearbox

it is one of the upgrade options to consider at a later stage......

 

you don't really need a 11.1v lipo imho

if you shove in 11.1v too much juice it will run faster but often a faster stock gun will break quickly if pushed too much

(truth is many guns running faster n faster will be likely to break quicker - like thrashing ya motor you could say)

 

use gun for 6 months, up to 9.6v see how she goes

if/when the spring/fps drops see about some mild tweaks/service

if she shoots crap - look at hop/bucking - 99% of accuracy/range is there not mega fps

 

please do not think like many of us did:

gotta upgrade this that and everything else

I must have a MadBull Tight Bore Barrel

it has to have 12:1 gears or Dual Sector Gear

and must all be replaced with Lonex Ultimate stuff inside with £50+ motor

 

like a car - if you want a mofo gun/car - buy one

ya suped up Ford Focus or G&G/Cyma will ergh still be a Ford Focus

so don't get too carried away with upgrades straight away

but you will coz you are a bloke - lol

 

seriously - just get out there - use it

have fun, see how you go

don't go too nutz on upgrades too quickly

a few tweaks cost very little and not many parts have to be all replaced

 

plus if it breaks - and it could/will at some point like a car battered up ford escort

you have a go at fixing/tweaking/bodging it

it ain't rocket science but often not quite as easy as you might think

if it is still shagged - cut ya losses buy another box/gun etc.......

 

just get out there, meet other people and shoot 'em

(in a friendly airsoft way of course)

 

how long gun will last - impossible to answer

might notice a little drop in performance say 6 months time from seals/spring/bucking

but depends how much you use it and if you abuse or take a little common sense care

 

like a pc - works fine before internet - go online then it will get shagged from virus/malware/crap over time

aeg - hang it on ya wall, lasts ages (until the high quality pot metal gearbox crumbles over years)

high end guns will/should last longer or their owners take more care of them

in my book if anybody has a "starter gun" lasting years n years n years - you ain't using it much or giving it abuse

but I like breaking things - always push stuff - always have to ignore the wet paint sign....

Yup - they are right - it is still wet that paint

[bobster46]

Thanks sitting duck, i'll see if i can get a 9.6v lipo batt and charger to fit.

[Sitting Duck]

Thanks sitting duck, i'll see if i can get a 9.6v lipo batt and charger to fit.

 

batteries:

 

Lipo - 7.4v or 11.1v

(2 cells of 3.7v or 3 cells - max charge of 4.2v)

so a fresh 7.4v comes off charge at 8.4v

11.1v can be 12.6v :0

 

LiFe - similar to lipo but cells are 3.3v

people use 3 cell - 9.9v but tbh don't bother

LiFe's are not all they are cracked up to be imho

the range/size/capacity is limited compared to Lipo's

 

The above 2 types have a burst or C rating

what is a decent battery is say 7.4v 20 or 25c - no lower

if it says 15-25c it is 15c really I have been told

 

chargers for lipo's are cheapy B3 type charging through balance lead

or B6 type that can charge all types of batteries - but buy a Genuine B6

 

original battery was probably a 1200-1500mah 8.4v nimah

these are old skool and they don't hold charge over time

often old nimah's lose charge very quickly

so don't go nutz buying lots of s/hand ones

and don't pay loads on new nimah's either

lipo's kick ass - even 7.4v

 

to obtain max modest performance from batterys

a possible option is to replace tamiya with deans connector on gun+battery

easy to do if you can solder - maybe 10 min mod if iron up to temp

ffs do NOT cut both leads at same time - cut 1 lead - solder, cut other solder

(remember shrink wrap before soldering)

see youtube on fitting deans connectors

this mod will improve response/rate of fire by aprox 10% or at least 1 rps aprox

tamiya - especially small tamiya creates a bit of resistance and restricts the flow to motor

 

component shop or hobby king for getting stuff cheap

measure what space you got in gun

subtract a few mm's to allow for leads

buy genuine B6 charger about £20, can use old laptop psu or buy a psu

cheapy lipo's start from about £7:50 in the block form

or they do "airsoft" batteries too at hobbyking but think they come from Hong Kong or EU/Netherlands for airsoft

be careful where in world you order from if using hobbyking - they do most stuff from UK if ya in a hurry or get from EU site

 

don't get ripped off buying £20 nimah's from airsoft shops with a further £15/£20 for a w@nky smart charger

have a look around and all that....

 

where is the guns battery compartment - up front or in rear "crane" type stock ???

measure the area - heck even roll up cardboard, pack of 10 cigarettes, mars bar or something

to see if the mofo fits ok - measure dummy battery etc....

order up - save money

BUT don't buy battery that won't fit - I've done that and I am supposed to know what I'm doing - lol

[mightyjebus]

Speaking from experience, Jebus? :-)

 

Normally every weekend I get to game it's either them or one of my own team mates.

[bobster46]

 

batteries:

 

Lipo - 7.4v or 11.1v

(2 cells of 3.7v or 3 cells - max charge of 4.2v)

so a fresh 7.4v comes off charge at 8.4v

11.1v can be 12.6v :0

 

LiFe - similar to lipo but cells are 3.3v

people use 3 cell - 9.9v but tbh don't bother

LiFe's are not all they are cracked up to be imho

the range/size/capacity is limited compared to Lipo's

 

The above 2 types have a burst or C rating

what is a decent battery is say 7.4v 20 or 25c - no lower

if it says 15-25c it is 15c really I have been told

 

chargers for lipo's are cheapy B3 type charging through balance lead

or B6 type that can charge all types of batteries - but buy a Genuine B6

 

original battery was probably a 1200-1500mah 8.4v nimah

these are old skool and they don't hold charge over time

often old nimah's lose charge very quickly

so don't go nutz buying lots of s/hand ones

and don't pay loads on new nimah's either

lipo's kick ass - even 7.4v

 

to obtain max modest performance from batterys

a possible option is to replace tamiya with deans connector on gun+battery

easy to do if you can solder - maybe 10 min mod if iron up to temp

ffs do NOT cut both leads at same time - cut 1 lead - solder, cut other solder

(remember shrink wrap before soldering)

see youtube on fitting deans connectors

this mod will improve response/rate of fire by aprox 10% or at least 1 rps aprox

tamiya - especially small tamiya creates a bit of resistance and restricts the flow to motor

 

component shop or hobby king for getting stuff cheap

measure what space you got in gun

subtract a few mm's to allow for leads

buy genuine B6 charger about £20, can use old laptop psu or buy a psu

cheapy lipo's start from about £7:50 in the block form

or they do "airsoft" batteries too at hobbyking but think they come from Hong Kong or EU/Netherlands for airsoft

be careful where in world you order from if using hobbyking - they do most stuff from UK if ya in a hurry or get from EU site

 

don't get ripped off buying £20 nimah's from airsoft shops with a further £15/£20 for a w@nky smart charger

have a look around and all that....

 

where is the guns battery compartment - up front or in rear "crane" type stock ???

measure the area - heck even roll up cardboard, pack of 10 cigarettes, mars bar or something

to see if the mofo fits ok - measure dummy battery etc....

order up - save money

BUT don't buy battery that won't fit - I've done that and I am supposed to know what I'm doing - lol

So before buying a decent lipo, can someone recommend a good seller where i can get a high quality batt and charger please. And just to confirm a 7.4 lipo is enough or should i go for e.g. a 9.6v like advertised on patrol base? And do i need to buy some glass fuses? if so what ampage?

 

Cheers. sorry for all the questions but thankful for all the advice.

[Sitting Duck]

first off you gotta measure ya battery space.....

then armed with that you can order up a battery

 

if you have a crane stock - battery in rear check the tubes

so you can get a 2 stick nunchuk type battery

 

if your gun is front wired check what can squeeze under handguard/barrel area

some hanguards can squeeze in a thin but slightly longer 166mm battery

rather than say a 140mm long battery type

 

most "stick" batteries are about 18mm diameter by ooh ergh depends on gun

often 135/140mm is about length available....

but other guns may take longer stick batteries - especially single stick ones

eg: ak's & mp5k's though some can be a tight fit

 

so like I say measure up, make some rough test shapes to see if stock/handguard closes ok

then you can work out what your options are......

 

this should fit - note SHOULD but only 1200mah

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=44772

 

charger:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31467__IMAX_B6_50W_5A_Charger_Discharger_1_6_Cells_GENUINE_EU_Warehouse_.html

note this is a little more expensive from EU but if buying battery from EU you may as well save on shipping cost for a uk b6 charger

 

you may need to get psu and some adapter if sticking on tamiya connectors

 

other battery options:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idProduct=84544

but is a bit long at 168mm plus deans connector

 

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31977__ZIPPY_Compact_2200mAh_2S_25C_Lipo_Pack_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=ZIPPY%20COMPACT - xt60 connectors - cut & replace with deans

but may only fit in some front wired handguards

 

there are $hitload of options but first you gotta check where ya battery is and what space you got to play with.....

 

or if going old skool:

 

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/batteries/airsoft

 

your gun ????

 

if this your gun - battery up front

measure old block battery - might be able to get a slightly longer one in there

but see how tight it is and what room ya got - as actress said to the bishop

 

reason I asked/posted pic is coz sometimes people say I got a G&G CM16......

yeah what bloody one coz there's all sorts/variations out there plus they may have misquoted exact model

[bobster46]

Thanks, yes its that one pictured but in two tone :-( at present.

The battery is an 8.4v 2/3A 1100ma nimah nun chuck style split 3 and 4 cells. The connector is a square and a circle fitting. The 4 cell is 11.5cm and the 3 is 9cm long. Looks like 3-4 cm spare length wise on the 4 cell. Im thinking :

VP Racing Battery 7.4v 2000mAh 20C LiPo Crane Stock Battery from patrol base is the best option. battery wise, not necessarily stockist.

[Sitting Duck]

 

Thanks, yes its that one pictured but in two tone :-( at present.

The battery is an 8.4v 2/3A 1100ma nimah nun chuck style split 3 and 4 cells. The connector is a square and a circle fitting. The 4 cell is 11.5cm and the 3 is 9cm long. Looks like 3-4 cm spare length wise on the 4 cell. Im thinking :

VP Racing Battery 7.4v 2000mAh 20C LiPo Crane Stock Battery from patrol base is the best option. battery wise, not necessarily stockist.

 

 

each of them 6 or 7 cells are 1.2v

 

each cell is aprox 18mm in diameter and 30mm in length

so in effect you have a stock battery of about 90mm x 18mm x 36mm (2x18mm)

the connector is called small or mini tamiya

(there is a large tamiya but mainly used for RC and jumbo airsoft guns)

 

The size is an aprox guess of your battery dimensions, depends what might lay best up front

usually the wires can just be tucked up on top of battery in handguard

 

As I explained YOU and you alone have to check before ordering up anything

it sounds daft but even with digital calipers nothing beats getting something similar size

and doing a final check that it fits in there ok - with a little room to spare

buy a battery that 1mm too big and you will be struggling or forcing it in which isn't wise

 

so have a look around on various sites/ebay for a nice size lipo

also consider getting 2 x batteries - one may do you ok especially if 2000mah

but depending on trigger happy or not - its a pi$$er running out of juice 3/4 way through ya day

(most just swap battery at lunchtime)

besides if ya paying for postage of 1 battery then may as well see if you can run to a spare

 

chargers - can get a B3 type charger for about £12 to £15

(little slower to charger but easy to use and just plug into mains - no psu required for most of them)

or a B6 genuine for about £20 from hobbyking

nearly all B6's on fleabay will be fakes - often they aren't too bad but clones can over charge - not good

 

read up on lipo common safety sense - they are very powerful

so ffs don't be a dumbass and go and puncture them like some ar$ehole did (moi btw)

 

they are f*cking dangerous if they get damaged !!!!

Arnie in Terminator 3 obviously ran on Lipo's

have fun

not wishing to $hit you up, but showing them warnings/precautions are all about

[Sitting Duck]

lipo safety warnings:

 

[bobster46]

Thanks buddy. i appreciate all your help. I'll defo order 2 of them and patrol base look like quite a good supplier?

[Sitting Duck]

patrolbase is an excellent place

 

we have a number of good uk retailers

and though you can save a few bob shopping around or importing

it is nice to support UK places plus you can ring them for advice n stuff