Some simple VSR questions I probably should know.

[Mr Monkey Nuts]

[Caveat] It's a JG Bar 10, but i know the TM snobs would look past the post

 

 

Should I be lubricating the external of the cylinder/bolt, there is a fair amount of wear through the pseudo-chrome down to the copper already <1000 rounds, the two plastic guide rings should still be in place.

 

What do i need to lubricate inside the cylinder?

 

What does the spring guide do? obviously it stops lateral movement around the cylinder, but does it have any other function, the piston catches on the sears right?

 

What is a zero trigger and why is that a good thing?

 

Is it possible to get perfect compression? if I draw the piston back and let it home with the head blocked it doesn't slam, but does slide home fairly slowly. in an AEG I expect perfect compression, but we are dealing with a much stronger spring. i think the leak is in the piston, so is it worth chasing perfection? I'm getting good 450fps which I'm happy with.

 

I see stock filling, why? just seems a mess!

 

I once found a good diy hop arm tune up guide, now I can't, is it dementia?

 

Much love, here is a cookie:

 

 

 

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[proffrink]

1. Yes, but not much - what are you using as lube? Cleaning is much more necessary as lots of gunk can get in there between the cylinder and receiver

 

2. Yes, though less necessary. Stops undue wear on the cylinder and piston

 

3. Guide rod just helps with consistency and is there to prevent jamming or the spring jumping out of place/doubling over if it gets caught on the side of the piston as you say. Without the guide it's going to reflex(?) from a weird 'U' shape as it'll simply be bent up against the side of the cylinder

 

4. It's Laylax's trigger mech. Nicer sear that will wear less and better designed trigger as a whole. Can be adjusted to give a much lighter trigger pull. In my opinion the Airsoft Pro one is just as good and much cheaper

 

5. Near impossible but doesn't really matter - so long as your FPS is stable I wouldn't worry. Aftermarket cylinder, piston and head will help with this, but just make sure the piston head hasn't got any undue wear or tearing on the o-ring (if you have one) and consider some PTFE/Teflon tape on the threads of the cylinder head. Remember the design of the cylinder is such that there's just a single o-ring on the piston stopping all that air (that's generally at a higher compression than in an AEG), so without aftermarket parts it's hard to do

 

6. Filling the stock adds weight and dampens sound (dampens sound quite a bit I should say). A lot of people apply more weight to the front or rear to suit them or just add foam to make it a little quieter

 

7. The one thing the VSR-10 has wrong with it is the hop arm doesn't protrude enough to lift weights above ~.35g when it's stock and also isn't really flat enough for an R-Hop. A lot of people mod the arm so it can lift heavier BBs - doing this and applying an R-Hop patch will give you enough to lift up to .45g and above. I think ASPUK does a pre-modified hop arm (they're certainly available somewhere if not there)

[Mr Monkey Nuts]

Thanks for taking the time to write that, it is appreciated.

 

1) I was using lithium molly grease. The site I play is very sandy and i think i got some sand in the action that caused the wear.

Is silicon oil tough enough to last a day of several cycles?

 

7) what mods do they make to the arm or is it a straight replacement?

 

Also what spring is roughly rated for 500fps? the standard is 400, but i don't know what strength that is.

[proffrink]

No probs.

1) Silicone probably not, but maybe look into FrogLube as that's very good on metal. Just requires a hair dryer to apply properly. It's also brilliant and catching dirt and making it easy to clean off I've found. I use it in my M4 which gets very messy internally a lot of the time.

7) There are a bunch of homebrew mods out there, but it's all the same principle - make the contact area of the arm longer, and (in most cases) taller so you can 'turn on more hop' and get a more even hop across an R-Hop patch. It was actually DangerWerx that made them: http://dangerwerx.com/vsr-10-h-e-levers/

Spring ratings you can calculate roughly on PDI's distributor website: http://www.x-fire.org/etop/bolt_sp.html - looks like the 310 for the thinner springs will give you 500, which is an incredibly high tension spring that could make cycling a real bitch (though these are smaller diameter springs so are easier to compress). See http://www.x-fire.org/etop/bolt_sp_thicker.html for the large diameter springs. Upgrade everything else first anyway or you'll bust the sear. A good piston and head will give you a noticeable FPS boost anyway.

 

If you end up buying some springs then get a couple of different ones, see what works then sell the others. PDI springs are hard to get in the UK and sell quite quickly for close to what you pay for them.

[Guest PT247]

the biro mod is the cheapest way to improve the hop arm.

 

 

a Laylax 150SP spring with a g-spec length Laylax barrel gets roughly 480fps, so either add a few washers to a 150 or cut down a 170..... If running a full length rifle then the fps may be closer to 500 on the 150SP.

 

or fit a 6.01mm TBB

[proffrink]

Tight bore on a springer sniper rifle when you're R-Hopping? Surely you jest.

[Guest PT247]

I never mentioned using an r-hop. To be honest have never rated them over other hop systems that aren't a pain to set up

[proffrink]

What kind of bucking are you using that requires the modified arm? Surely it's pointless without some sort of flat hop to make the most of that extra surface area.

[Guest PT247]

standard TM, like you said earlier the un modded arm won't lift BBs over 0.28g and I was running 0.3g BBs when my VSR was firing at 350fps, I have the Dangerwerx B hop arm fitted but did run the biro mod when I was on 350fps. Am now running at 480fps and using 0.4g BBs, have some 0.43g BBs to try but will have to play with my hop to lift them though as am on almost max hop to lift the 0.4g BBs

[sp00n]

I can personally recommend the action army vsr hop chamber

[Mr Monkey Nuts]

Are vsr piston rings and AEG piston rings the same size?

 

After stripping cleaning living with silicon, and changing the piston ring for a new one I'm now getting only 310 on .25 down from 370 with the old leaking piston ring.

It's also really tough to push back into battery, much tougher than cocking, like it's jamming on something.

 

Spoon, why? What's wrong with the standard chamber? Surely it's the arm that does the hard work?

[Snakeeyes75]

Are vsr piston rings and AEG piston rings the same size?

 

After stripping cleaning living with silicon, and changing the piston ring for a new one I'm now getting only 310 on .25 down from 370 with the old leaking piston ring.

It's also really tough to push back into battery, much tougher than cocking, like it's jamming on something.

 

Spoon, why? What's wrong with the standard chamber? Surely it's the arm that does the hard work?

 

 

What Battery?? Are you using some crazy translator as I can't work out what "After stripping cleaning living with silicon" means?

[Lozart]

 

 

What Battery?? Are you using some crazy translator as I can't work out what "After stripping cleaning living with silicon" means?

"in battery" means the action is forward and the gun is ready to fire.

[sp00n]

Spoon, why? What's wrong with the standard chamber? Surely it's the arm that does the hard work?

The standard chamber isn't bad at all, but it could be better. as standard it's cast and mass produced, allowing tolerances to slide over time. And like you said the standard arm isn't brilliant.

 

The AA chamber is cnc'ed alloy, it has a great arm as standard, and if you do the TDC mod it works even better. By design it's incredibly tight on the hop rubber to prevent any air leaks.

[Snakeeyes75]

"in battery" means the action is forward and the gun is ready to fire.

 

Ah right! All is clear now

[Snakeeyes75]

Are vsr piston rings and AEG piston rings the same size?

 

After stripping cleaning living with silicon, and changing the piston ring for a new one I'm now getting only 310 on .25 down from 370 with the old leaking piston ring.

It's also really tough to push back into battery, much tougher than cocking, like it's jamming on something.

 

Spoon, why? What's wrong with the standard chamber? Surely it's the arm that does the hard work?

 

Right, I think I know what you mean. So, what cylinder/piston set are you using? If it's the stock one then a good test is to remove the cylinder and with a screwdriver pull the piston back about an inch, put your thumb over the nozzle and let go. Does the piston blow out or hold? if it blows out, air's escaping. (With a Laylax one it's designed to do this as the flimsy O ring is designed as a vacuum expanding seal). Either the O ring is crap or the head is leaking air, you can PTFE tape it to help.

 

In terms of the rough pull/push, again what are you using? Could be the bolt stop grinding on the cylinder.