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Ics m41a fuse keeps blowing on full auto

Bigben2k

By Bigben2k,
in Electric Guns

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Sitting Duck Grand Master

Sitting Duck

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Try a 30 amp blade but no more

 

normally all the crap heats up more on semi when you are spamming single shots loads

(its one of the basic tests to see if a mosfet can take the strain of semi spamming - 120 semi shots in 1 minute)

 

yeah bit weird it doing it on full auto, but them ICS motors do run faster than G&G's

but I have had that and think a ICS by Lord Metile burnt out under warranty on him

so they might have thinner wires in gun or in the armeture of motor winding that could heat up

 

some motors have blown in the windings on the motor

my guess is thinner wire used to allow for more windings but this might blow or heat up more

this is pure duck theory bollox so don't pay too much attention to to me - nobody else does

 

what volts or battery are you using 9.6v nimah or 11.1v lipo ???

 

is it still under warranty or you been messing with it ???

could be a dodgy bit of wiring or motor on its way out

or some strain on box but would lock on semi I would of thought

once it is running the load isn't so great keeping it firing rather than fire - stop - fire - stop like spamming on semi

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Sitting Duck Grand Master

Sitting Duck

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Ahhhhh - yeah she fire quick on that mofo

30amp blade fuse but she still might blow tbh

 

She should really have a mosfet on there - if she ain't bet them trigger contacts are sparking n arcing a bit

you could have resistance from carbon building up

 

another thing to check is the motor contacts are snug but be careful they don't break off

at the right angle bend onto motor - they can be like little fuses themselves and can weaken & blow/snap

 

all these joins fuses connectors are weak spots of resistance that can add to the fuse blowing

 

some remove fuse as itself is yet another resistance point in high stress/speed/fps guns....

 

BUT I AM NOT RECOMENDING YOU DO THIS AT ALL !!!!!!

 

it is there for a reason and it could very well be blowing for a good and valid reason - especially taking the pi$$ on 11.1v without mosfet

 

there could be a slight possible short in there so I deffo do not advise removing fuse at all

 

and 30amp is usually the most fitted, I will not say go to 40amp without getting wiring/motor checked and perhaps thicker wire and mosfet installed

 

Jeez I use mega thick wire - a bit thicker than 16awg slicone wire and still it warms up a little when going nutz

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Sitting Duck Grand Master

Sitting Duck

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Airfet - mosfet but I do hope it ain't an Active Braking one coz they add a bit more strain to motor

when you release trigger the polarity is reversed stopping the motor quick to stop overspin

 

however this would only come into effect when releasing trigger - then a bit more load is placed on motor

 

not a massive amount but still a bit more load/heat "can" be generated

jury is still out on if they are good or bad but I don't use/have any AB fet myself but others use them on here no problem

 

I'm gonna go out on limb and hope if/when that was fitted the wire was upgraded also and thus there should be very very few points of resistance

 

So if all the above is done then depending on gun setup it could be a short taking place or a great load from bad shimming/motor height

causing stuff to heat up if still blowing a 30amp fuse when fitted

 

I would get into contact with the previous owner first and at very least get him to explain exactly what was fitted and how

as you are maybe a little unsure. There could be a short or strain taking place for example

 

and if you don't know exactly how sound the shimming/wiring is the last thing I would say is bypass the fuse

how warm is the wiring getting - silly question coz your own definition is gonna be different to my own definition

 

So it is gonna be hard if not impossible for me or anyone to say this or that will help/cure it

and unless you know wire/shim is sound then ffs don't think of bypassing fuse at all

 

11.1v lipo 25c+ is f*cking beefy $hit - trust me I've seen a 7.4v arc and that was some mofo sparky crap

this ain't 5v 500mah usb lead - even so just look at some them faulty usb charger fires out there

 

Not wishing to scare monger you but seriously get in contact with the chap or drop to 7.4v perhaps

don't ffs take chances - quite likely it will need to be fully checked out by somebody if she keeps happening

 

The blowing on full auto to me seems like something ain't right or up to the job - and bigger beefier fuses

or worse remove/bypass the fuse is not the way to go - not until it has been fully and completely checked out

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Sitting Duck Grand Master

Sitting Duck

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he thinks he may have a fet in there already but maybe if it is an active braking one

 

then perhaps swap it out for a firestorm or f-storm fet

 

not an active breaking fet AND it has (they say) thermal cut out protection

so fit that £10 cheapy micro baby fet and bypass/remove fuse

 

google firestorm mosfet or airsoft mosfet thingy

 

soz but Duck support line is down for the moment - I'm off out for a beer - jeeeeez

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ImTriggerHappy Grand Master

ImTriggerHappy

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But I've tried the small 7 something and done it with that

Have you checked all the wiring connections for carbon deposits/black or brown heat marks if you have a bad connection it can cause arcing and that will blow your fuse no matter what battery you use.
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Bigben2k Apprentice

Bigben2k

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Right fell stupid now ☺️ I've not used the 11.1 were it was bigger than my other 1 I thought it was 11.1 but it's a overlander 2200 mah 7.4v does that sound right spoke to the last owner top fella he said he said he going to call his tech guy and get him to look at it again as that was it was in for last time to get fixed blowing fuses but tech guy said he fixed it but there must be something more to the fuse problem

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Sitting Duck Grand Master

Sitting Duck

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Dont feel stupid we have all been there I still go there on a regular basis.

 

It is my primary address tbh....

 

so it seems it had a history or ongoing problem - could be wiring or maybe faulty motor/fet or something else causing fuse to blow

 

Well at least the guy & tech bloke will know what they have done/tried/not tried so far

rather than any of us keep stabbing in the dark etc....

we could try new motor/fet/connectors etc... run a meter over wiring but most likely if no joy it may need opening to replace any possible short wiring

 

but we ain't got it in front of us and if the previous guy sorts it out then alls well that ends well

lucky - lots of horror stories of people palming off problematic guns onto others

 

fingers crossed and keep us informed

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Lozart Grand Master

Lozart

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Right fell stupid now ☺️ I've not used the 11.1 were it was bigger than my other 1 I thought it was 11.1 but it's a overlander 2200 mah 7.4v does that sound right spoke to the last owner top fella he said he said he going to call his tech guy and get him to look at it again as that was it was in for last time to get fixed blowing fuses but tech guy said he fixed it but there must be something more to the fuse problem

 

I'd suggest taking it somewhere else. If the guy said it was fixed last time and it's still exhibiting the same issue then he clearly didn't fix it properly the first time. Initial thoughts personally are - what else has been done to the gun? Is the motor adjusted properly? Has it been shimmed too tight? a 7.4v LiPo shouldn't be drawing so much current as to blow a 25A fuse all the time unless the gearbox/motor isn't standard.

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Sitting Duck Grand Master

Sitting Duck

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One of my ICS-42W's blew a fuse just like that (Tommy Cooper)

and Lord Metile had to have his motor replaced I think but he still got an ICS MP5 later on

 

the fuse is a crap blade type and I think the wire is still quite thin and I stand by stock ICS's are a bit faster than stock G&G M4's

so who knows if the motor is drawing too much current - if it has thinner wire for more TPA it could be getting worn the windings

if really really thin wire used - have heard windings blow like fuse but that was usually being pushed to hell

 

atm the gun ain't running right, the guy has offered to sort it which is better than usual "sold as seen m8"

 

see if he can fix it properly - he might have generally thought it was sorted but alas maybe not

I've been there myself - well still going there sometimes just as you think you have got it sweet

then the ar$e falls out elsewhere or something......

 

if still no joy I'd just gut the thing and start over myself - but then I'm no expert and probably fix one thing and balls something else up

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straffham Experienced

straffham

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I need a side arm any good hand guns I should look out for as I'm a newbie

Tokyo Marui are the best regarded out of the box pistols for skirmishing, you won't go far wrong with any of them as long as you don't mind them being all plastic. They shoot extremely well and cycle quickly, plus work better in winter due to the plastic slide. If you must have a metal slide then a WE Glock is a good alternative. See if you can try different types at your local site to find what suits you.

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