G&G AEG CM18 MOD1 for first AEG.

[Sitting Duck]

Google up who makes Echo1 guns and how they are made, assembled, rebranded or slung together in USA.

Me personally I don't quite think the starter JG guns have better boxes than G&G CM's.

CM boxes have had 8mm solid bushing/bearings and radius boxes for over 18 months....
Yes maybe early boxes may have failed more in the past.

But up until recently JG boxes were 7mm plastic bushings and not radius boxes. But just recently they have started use solid bushings and I am quite sure they have started to radius the boxes at front too.

But make up your own minds if G&G are any good or not

 

for what it is worth if you wish to go down the p90 route.....

if you seek to obtain a cheap additional boneyard/spares-repair one to upgrade to 400+ fps

then "maybe" you could see if a ukara'd m8 (or yourself once you have skirmished)

would purchase one of these:

 

http://www.taiwangun.com/en/ksp-90tr-acm?from=listing&campaign-id=19

http://www.taiwangun.com/en/ksp-90trk-acm?from=listing&campaign-id=19

http://www.taiwangun.com/en/ksp-90tr-sd-acm?from=listing&campaign-id=19

 

I do not know what these are like - but at under say £90 they might be worth considering if p90 is a must have

 

Blimey those cheap p90's all under £90 sold out straight away - all 3 types in stock this morning

(think I'd best stop posting all them good offers I find - none left for me - jeez)

[Sacarathe]

So my post started out "I was going to let this thread die off, but as I have no one to talk to and i'm not done with my plans, im giving up on P90 because I cannot find a cheap enough starting platform..." and then I saw your post that the forum failed to notify me about.

But make up your own minds if G&G are any good or not

 

for what it is worth if you wish to go down the p90 route.....

if you seek to obtain a cheap additional boneyard/spares-repair one to upgrade to 400+ fps

then "maybe" you could see if a ukara'd m8 (or yourself once you have skirmished)

would purchase one of these:

 

http://www.taiwangun.com/en/ksp-90tr-acm?from=listing&campaign-id=19

http://www.taiwangun.com/en/ksp-90trk-acm?from=listing&campaign-id=19

http://www.taiwangun.com/en/ksp-90tr-sd-acm?from=listing&campaign-id=19

 

I do not know what these are like - but at under say £90 they might be worth considering if p90 is a must have

 

Blimey those cheap p90's all under £90 sold out straight away - all 3 types in stock this morning

(think I'd best stop posting all them good offers I find - none left for me - jeez)

 

 

At this point I don't even want to play airsoft (with an AEG), just want crack open(not literally) a pair of identical TM p90 clones and get to work. Perfect would be one which the lower receiver is not glued.

 

Grateful to know platforms are available at affordable rates.

 

Does that site de-list out of stock items?

 

Just found this (fairly sure its KSP):

youtube.com/watch?v=jepla1oofhs

 

Looks like the KSP is a great starting platform - now to find it on sale in two months time :( .

[Sacarathe]

The funny thing is, when I started researching airsoft I wanted to only buy the best because I was terrified of something breaking down, when I was in wolf armouries they said they had over 2 months waiting list to fix breakdowns - apparently bioBBs are a major reason for this.

 

I have now spent 20-25 hours reading about the technical playing side of airsoft (admittedly I only figured out what the tappet plate did 10 minutes ago) and I think now I am happy to just buy the cheaper brands and fix any breaks myself.

[Sitting Duck]

Good cheap brands is what does work really well

 

Lots of crappy cheap brands out there if you make an unwise decision

[marcruss]

if i was picking a first gun ,i dont think you can go wrong with a g&g 330fps usual, so good for indoor or outdoor

[Sacarathe]

If I want an all black G&G gun, polymer, are the CM16 any 'less' than the CM18 ?

[Sitting Duck]

They are all CM16's really - just with different tarted up front ends

 

CM18 is a CM16 like the Carbine Raider FireHawk GC16 or 26 etc......

 

To me the CM18 is stretched FireHawk front end without the amplifier - even has the same flip sights as FH but in contrasting colours

then they add a bit of tan/black mix which makes it stand out a bit

The ris ladder covers can be removed, the contrasting pistol grip - well when your out shooting wtf is gonna notice

the contrasting crane stock - replace with a black crane or me have used a black fixed stubby stock on there

 

other option is a Raider or GC16 30th

the CQB or the BOT 300 is getting over £150 for a polymer gun

MK18's are nice coz of the contrasting look out of box

failing that get the metal GC16 and then later on consider changing the front end/barrel to your choice

[Sacarathe]

Are there any out of the box upgrades due for this gun, should I change the hop up? I've noticed that in the places that like G&G in the us have a least some respect for their, supposedly 6.04 barrels.

[Lozart]

Are there any out of the box upgrades due for this gun, should I change the hop up? I've noticed that in the places that like G&G in the us have a least some respect for their, supposedly 6.04 barrels.

 

 

Leave it be. Play with it, decide if the shortcomings you find are actually you or the gun and then fix what needs fixing. It's a good gun as is, don't fuck it up by "upgrading".

[Sitting Duck]

If it ain't broke don't try to fix it is best advice with lots of guns....

For starters you need to see how any gun compares and G&G are very often ready go out of box

 

Most G&G's are 330fps they are fine for any site

Their value for money, the moment you pick it up after holding other plastic starter guns - it feels much better

Inside is good tried n tested internals - yes they are the Fords of airsoft but inside is a good Ford Pinto engine

 

I don't think they use 6.04's - likely their higher end Top-Tech guns use a 6.04 maybe but not the CM range

 

I think most new owners should just get out there, use it and get to know their new CM

ain't gonna hit 80, 90 100m but most likely 45 - 60m which is still good

just make sure you pull the trigger when target is in range as many blame the gun

instead of the owner not knowing his gun's abilities

 

Hop is good - I'd say better than most plastic hops in starter guns

Green bucking is regarded as very good for a starter gun as well

 

Owners should be using these for many months without any thought of needing to upgrade anything

Any upgrades can improve but also even high quality upgrades can be fitted poorly and performance can be worse

 

No aeg will beat the accuracy of a sniper - well TM vs JBBG sniper but you get the idea

it is a toy electric gun that pew pew pee pew plasic balls out the end but is a very good starter pee pwew

 

Perfectly fine as is imho - to break them as good as I do takes skill - or rather lack of it

[Sacarathe]

Have to be careful to avoid "because I can", where "but I shouldn't" rules.

[ImTriggerHappy]

Basically as bits break replace them with better bits but until they do leave them alone. Why replace something that works fine.

[Sitting Duck]

I started out with a bit cheaper guns - plinky guns or just a tiny bit better

that broke after a trigger happy full day skirmish or two

 

tried to repair but often they ain't designed to be repaired just bin/replaced

(my noobish tech skills were dire then but at least I broke stuff that was already semi-boned)

Learnt a bit from them nightmares and really appreciated better quality guns later on

ICS & G&G pi$$ all over cheap SRC's and other cheap makes from JBBG

note SRC's were Gen 1 - Gen 3 are better I'm told, well couldn't be much worse

 

Yes I broke my G&G CM18 - first AR latch failed (weird never had that happen since to any gun)

then fixed snapping pickup tooth off - not once but twice off piston

This is why you do AoE and a good reason not to just chuck in a neo motor and 11.1v

Wow this is great - BANG, bollox no it ain't

 

Since then I have got a little better - at breaking stuff

but I have learnt to not take the pi$$ so much on stock guns out of box with a bit of work inside

 

Seriously advise people to just get some use out their guns and only look to mess with it when

the GUN needs it - not the OWNER

 

I admit to most of my screw ups loads of time so people fully understand the risks of messing about

or pushing any gun too much too quickly. Gladly share my success stories and numerous failures I've done

(still doing plenty of them)

 

I can blow up stuff as I have the odd - ahem "spare" but others with one or their first aeg should tread carefully

 

Just get it - use it & enjoy it, many think they are gonna do this n that & build dsg etc... - over rated imho

A good player can kick ar$e with almost any gun, good performing guns help

but it is the good players not the good guns that win the games

 

To me it don't matter $hit I just go to blow up guns and have fun

[ImTriggerHappy]

A good player can kick ar$e with almost any gun, good performing guns help

but it is the good players not the good guns that win the games

A truer statement has never been said.

I have spent a lot of time and money trying to get my primary perfect but its made no difference to my game still play exactly the same and get about the same amount of hits as before.

[Sacarathe]

How do you find out what battery (shape/size) to buy?

[Sacarathe]

UK stores recommend the 7.4 or 8.4v, US stores recommend 8.4v or 9.6v - and a few sites claim 11.1v compatibility.

 

Going with:

 

http://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/batteries-bbs-gas-chronographs-c5/batteries-c62/we-airsoft-europe-7-4v-2600mah-20c-crane-stock-lipo-p3197

 

http://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/batteries-bbs-gas-chronographs-c5/batteries-c62/we-airsoft-europe-7-4v-1450mah-25c-crane-stock-lipo-p3193

 

Having just noticed cells are different in LiPOs.

 

17/07/2015:

 

Well, I bought it from Land Warrior Airsoft yesterday and received it today. Price matched a £1 off too.

 

While I have had no surprises, it is still managing to be lower quality than I expected (for £154 item manufactured outside the UK). I would not call anything I dislike about it 'unexpected' and I am quite happy with it - not fired yet. G&Gs manufacturing tolerances between the parts seems to be lax, but the parts themselves seem individually fine, small amount of rattle, but it is quite lightweight, and overall I don't have any regrets at this point.

 

Well, except that I have foolishly not ordered a sling.

 

Shame it does not have ambi mag release.

Edited July 17, 2015 by Sacarathe

[Sacarathe]

No need for a new topic.

 

 

I found out today that my gun is 351 fps most of the time. And that when I previously chrono'd I was more than likely using .25g BBs from a borrowed mag - which would account for the 310 FPS noted.

 

I want to play at the mall, which is strict 328 with variance allowed up to absolute 340.

 

 

 

What can I do? Besides firing (not a realistic option). I have learned a lot and I know theoretical solutions, such as shortening the spring or drilling holes in the cylinder, but really I don't want to do any of that, someone reassure me the FPS will drop to 335 ish!

 

 

I should have chrono'd at the end of the day, after it had had 400 BBs through it.

[Sitting Duck]

you can leave the gun cocked over night.....

or some other temp fix.....

 

you can slide off top receiver.......

now if you place a few layers of tape - gaffa or electrician's tape at front of gearbox

just above & below where the hop goes in - tape on metal gearbox shell.....

 

What you are trying to do is just part the hop a smidge away from its usual place that seals well

pushing the hop a little forward should hopefully ensure the nozzle may not seal 101% perfectly against bucking

in effect creating a slight leak or not such great seal in the hop or fps drop at chrono

 

around 0.5mm - heck even 0.25mm can make the difference between a good seal and a GREAT seal

you are just trying to ineffect drop fps from 350 to say 333 - aprox 5%

but unfortunately you can't test the results without a chrono really

 

but at least this is a temp drop and tape can always be removed

(though you don't wanna keep messing about too much with tape on/off over time)

but worth trying to drop fps slightly than leave spring cocked overnight

besides after 3 to 6 months I'm sure the gun will easily be within Mall's limits anyway

[Sacarathe]

I don't know how to leave it cocked, I just take the batteries out. /newb

[Sitting Duck]

you pull trigger and release it early before piston fires

thus leaving spring compressed nearly ready to release/fire

 

not easy to gauge or see even with G&G box showing with top receiver removed

as they don't have a rear window to see piston/spring position on gearbox shell

 

battery in, leave it on full auto - reason if you don't get it right first attempt you may end up with

the trigger in the "dead zone" by releasing trigger a smidge earlier and have to flick to full auto anyway

 

look down magwell after she has fired..... (dry fired btw as all guns should be mag free & cleared of course)

(note MAGWELL not barrel - anybody that don't understand this important bit should not proceed ffs)

the nozzle - black stock nozzle should be starting to go backwards allowing a bb to enter

as you inch over the gun - that nozzle should shoot forward as tappet/nozzle is released

at this point the spring is roughly 66% to 75% cocked/compressed.....

 

you could leave it in this state over night to help lose a little tension from spring

no longer than over night I'd say as you only want it to drop a little

 

that is one of a few ways to bring fps down

care needs to be taken as most teeth are plastic not metal - only 1 last tooth is robust metal

but the Black G&G piston is a good sturdy one so it should be fine for a little precocking overnight

 

if not sue me next time you see me

 

oh and ambi mag catch - son's 416 has this on it:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Double-side-left-right-hand-Magazine-Release-Catch-for-M-series-Airsoft-AEG-/111674731179?hash=item1a00552aab

 

got sent it by error/mixup - better than the Bi-8001 stock mag catch so asked for invoice and kept it on there

temped to maybe getting another one perhaps

[Sacarathe]

Thanks, this is excellent, I'll consider using this. One thing, how do I know I have not done this by accident at the end of a game day?

 

Also, should I recharged the LiPo to full before storing it or what?

 

(7.4 20c 2600 mah two cell)

[Sitting Duck]

What "can" sometimes happen is that you store the gun with it pre-cocked by accident

over time the spring will lose tension a considerable bit

and can drop to under 300 if left like this for a while

 

2 things to do on finishing for day when you return home to store gun

(or just leave it in bag - store gun is a term loosely used but mine are always wrapped in silk blankets)

 

anyway - empty mags as if stored with spring wound hi caps or mid-caps they can lose tension and efficiency

often with hi-caps you gradually find you no longer get 20-30 or so shots on a full winding and this drops the crappy half a dozen

 

also fire gun on semi twice they say to help ensure gun/spring/gears are parked correctly with min tension

 

what you are trying to do is leave it pre-cocked/wound for a little while to deliberately lose a smidge of tension

and no you wouldn't lose much if any real tension by a game or two

the cm.515 was still 348/349 and I did just adjust a smidge more hop to get her under

(ain't gonna clean barrel just yet either or I could be back over the limit, and forget a tbb in there for a while)

 

 

Lipo battery

 

I'd leave it partly charged and charge it night before game

but don't listen to me too much about lipo's

 

 

note this was dodgy looking lipo - crapped myself as it sparked hissed dropping it in hallway then bursting into flames

kicked it out the front door friday night but scorched the carpet - missus not happy

but on flip side now got the go ahead to buy a ton of new lipo's

but take it from me - if they look a bit dodgy or more just a little puffy replace them

this was a cheapo brand x one and not a proper decent make like Zippy, Turnigy, Vapex, WE etc....

f*ck me all smoke alarms going off and stink - maybe make a claim on insurance or she will get new hall carpet

could of been a LOT LOT worse - so yeah a little care IS needed in handling/storing/charging lipo's

(another lesson learnt - but this was a moody battery btw so don't all rush out and build asbestos charging rooms - just common sense)

[Sacarathe]

Ok, managed to get the nozzle in full contact with the barrel (well the green hop bucking anyway).

 

How long should I leave it like that for, started the clock at 11am? If no one answers I'll fire it in semi tomorrow morning.

 

 

 

Re-reading the above, I may have got this backwards. When I looked in the magwell this morning the black nozzle was entirely withdrawn (since 42 hrs ago) - I could have dropped a bb down the barrel and pushed it out the magwell.

 

Sorry Duck your instructions confused me a little, I'm unclear whether you mean the spring decompressed or compressed is 'cocked'. I would presume that the spring compressed is cocked. I get that nozzle forward is decompressed.

[Lozart]

When I looked in the magwell this morning the black nozzle was entirely withdrawn (since 42 hrs ago) - I could have dropped a bb down the barrel and pushed it out the magwell.

 

 

 

If you're trying to weaken the spring then that is how you want it. "Cocked" as in "ready to fire" is how you have the gun - the spring is compressed and the gun will fire within a few turns of the motor.

[Sacarathe]

 

If you're trying to weaken the spring then that is how you want it. "Cocked" as in "ready to fire" is how you have the gun - the spring is compressed and the gun will fire within a few turns of the motor.

 

In that case, this is a good job I looked at it today as it would have otherwise been like that for two weeks instead of 42, hours.

 

Thanks!

 

I take it that means, that one of the things i've learned, through Q&A, that no one told me about AEGs is to check the nozzle is in contact with the barrel before putting it into storage, when firing semi I had difficulty achieving that state.